idosubaru

air suspension computer is under the drivers seat. unplugging it is an easy way to keep the light from coming on. plug it back in. there is also another connector to the right of the fuse box down by your left foot that is basically just an extension of the suspension computer. unplugging that will also negate the suspension light. plugging either of these two plugs in will give you back your light if they are unplugged. many times people don't remove all the gadgets - just the struts. everything else you need is in place, just install air struts. things you can check for: solenoids. there are two under the engine hood. one next to the top of each strut. two 10mm bolts hold it in place with obvious air fittings. do you have those in place under your hood? the rear solenoids are attached tot he struts so no worries there. the computer is under the drivers seat. check for that (under the carpet of course). remove the front drivers side tire and fender lining. the compressor and drier assembly is located under there. you can also check for it by looking down by the battery because some of the bolts pass through there, but tough if you don't know what you're looking for. best to just remove one wheel and the liner, it's very easy to do. air lines - i would think they left these in place, i've never seen anyone but myself remove them. this is just about everything. be sure to replace every o-ring in the system when you put it back together. good luck and have fun. there is a good bit of air suspension info at http://www.xt6.net if you like.

go to the library (or order one) and read a book about buying cars (they are typically short) written buy a former car salesmen. good information in their and it really puts into light the tricks they use. if the dealer shows you "their cost", "inventory" or whatever, it's likely a fabricated document that really doesn't mean anything, it's just a tool for them to use. they will never show actual accounting records for a particular vehicle. getting the manager, him showing you top secret papers is all part of the game. newer cars are much easier to negotiate with for various reasons. one being the price is more consistent. with used cars you never know what they paid for it so there is more flexibility in negotiaiting and may be harder to get them to come down depending on the market in the immediate area. dealers have larger profit margins on used cars than new.

i'd buy a fuel filter from http://www.thepartsbin.com and buy generic fuel hose and clamps at any autoparts store (actually i just did this and will be installing it next week). do not buy OEM hoses for anything unless you like OEM that much and want to spend lots of money for it. i bougth OEM PVC hoses and they were like 70 dollars for what could be about 5 dollars of hose at any autoparts store. i am not familiar with the sock in the fuel tank but wouldn't worry about it too much unless you have a known issue. the stock fuel pump has a sock on the intake side, but you're replacing the pump so that's not an issue. i'm not familiar with any other fuel filter other than the one in the engine bay.

i installed this fuel pump on my XT6: MSD part# for the fuel pump is: MSD-2225 at Summit Racing. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=MSD%2D2225 kevin also has one on his XT6. straight forward to install, i'll post pictures later, it will fit in the existing bracket of the stock fuel pump. i'll post pictures and details on http://www.xt6.net when i get a chance to take pictures this week. there are likely cheaper models available of course. this was a nice aftermarket option that is very easy to install.

the filter should not cause this, just a recommended maintenance item while diagnosing the trans. a really bad filter could cause line pressure problems which can affect the trans, but would be unlikely to cause only the problems you're experiencing. that's why i said you can get away without doing it. a fellow moderator at http://www.xt6.net says replacing the transfer clutches is fairly straight forward and they can be purchased from subaru for about 1.50 each for the XT6 4EAT trans. (there are 6 or 8 of them). this can also be done without removing the trans.

replacement is a fine way to go if you're sure it's the trans. more details would help, trying to diagnose over the internet is hard enough without any details on a particular problem. 90,000 is not a normal interval to be having any trans problems. give as many details as possible - describe the noise, when it happens, how it started, all the time/some of the time, comes and goes, only during certain times, temperatures, at start up...etc. you get the point, describe it as best as possible what it sounds like and how it started. is it AWD? if so - all the tires should match in tread depth and the tire pressures should be close to the recommended values. if not the TCU won't function properly. have the fluid flushed in the trans. this can improve drivability. you change your engine oil what every 3,000 or 5,000 miles and some people go 100,000 miles or more and never change the trans fluid. it's not subjected to as much abuse but it also does alot - it's a hydraulic fluid, a coolant and a lubricant for your trans and can degrade. replacing the trans filter is a good idea, but not necessary. check with a transmission specialty shop, i know a guy having a soob trans rebuilt right now was quoted 1,500 - 2,000 and that was with some performance mods included. also - if they look at it they may find it's not something so drastic. another option - i'd look for a used unit. i've had a used trans in my XT6 for about 70,000 miles with no issues and see no reason to not expect lots more miles out of it. a local trans shop said they would install a trans for me (when i seperated my shoulder) for 150 - 200. i ended up doing it myself, but my point is that i'd rather install a used trans for 1,000 than spend 3000 on a new or rebuilt unit. whatever option you choose, have an aftermarket transmission cooler installed. they cost 29.00.

i went through without a cat and failed like a champ, over twice the limit. the CE light being on doesn't necessarily mean much, mine wasn't on when i had my converter off and i didn't pass. if the CE light is on, then you surely shouldn't bother trying to have it tested unless you know exactly why it's on and it's possible effects on the emissions. some states now won't even check your emissions if the CE light is on. like mentoined earlier, a good running subaru should pass with no problems. good spark and fuel and you should be fine. my 200,000 + XT6 passed just fine (after i installed a cat!). make sure the car/exhaust has been driven and nice and hot when you show up. the catalyst in the converter works best when hot.

check your tires. improperly matched sets will cause the TCU to inadvertently lock and unlock the transfer clutches at abnormal times. i've seen it happen. check the tire tread depth and the tire pressure. AUTOMATIC - if the tires are good then have the fluid flushed and the trans filter changed. you can probably get away without the filter change, but i recommend changing the filter personally. if you have an automatic trans - install an aftermarket transmission cooler, the best 30 or 40 dollars you can spend. the stock cooler in the side of the radiator is limited in capability and easily degrades as the radiator ages. hands down best 30 dollars you can spend if you want high mileage and few issues out of your trans. this becomes more and more important if you do any hard driving, towing, racing, live in hot areas, mountain driving, torque converter launches, etc. MANUAL - if the tires are fine then change the diff fluid and transmission gear oil. i'd also change the rear diff fluid as the fluid costs a couple dollars. if you end up needing transfer clutches for an automatic trans, buy a used set and have a place install them. look for a bad trans and buy the rear transfer housing and have it installed. or find a cheap trans yourself and buy the whole thing. i know two people that have installed transer housings/clutches in this way. both in north caronlina now that i think about it, strange coincidene. good luck

if it is indeed in FWD and a transmission issue then the cause of the problem will determine the severity of this issue. the plausibility of how many miles you can drive the FWD fuse in place is kind of off topic until we know more. it may relate, or may not. i personally think it's possible and an interesting discussion, but not ready for that yet. if you are lighting up the tires then it sounds like you might be driving around in normal mode where the 4EAT trans is putting only 10 percent power to the rear. when i floor my 4EAT trans one front tires slips for a second and then the TCU detects this and distributes more power to the rear and the slipping tires stop. i can imagine a situation where your tires slip but the TCU doesn't do anything....and this would be normal and not harmful to your transmission. it would be normal in that it's a normal driving charateristic for the trans (10 percent to the rear) but abnormal in that it doesn't change the power distribution due to slipping. the 4EAT is always in a 10 percent power distribution to the rear mode...and only changes that when it slips. so if you're always in that mode then you won't necessarily harm the trans. i can also imagine scenarios that are damaging to your transmission, depends in the nature of the problem. i'd say monitoring the TCU and Duty solenoid C is a good idea to see if they are doing what they should be doing. check continuity to that solenoid and start checking the circuit sounds like a good idea.

you won't save gas mileage inserting the fuse, nothing meaurable anyway because the internal AWD components of the trans add most of the drag associated with gas mileage degredation. how are your tires? do they all match fairly well? tread depth and pressure correct? improper tire matching can cause the AWD to act weird, though in my experience it causes the trans to lcok and unlock the transfer clutches at wierd times. so it doesn't sound like your problem, but still something simple to check. how much are your tires slipping? alot? typically they will chirp or spin out a little bit before the TCU detects slippage and varies the transfer clutches. if the tires get worse i imagine they could slip quicker and make more noise before the TCU kicks in and moderates the torque distribution to the rear. if they are lighting up the entire time you're on the gas pedal then you're definitely in FWD. if it's temporary but longer than it used to be i may suspect the tires.

i'll check. it's the wifes car so i don't know a ton about the interior. thanks.

will these cupholders also fit in an OBS or just the OBW? my OBS doesn't have any cupholders.

you will not experience any problems driving around without the rear driveshaft. that is perfectly fine. is the POWER light for the transmission blinking 16 times at start up? that would indicate a problem. if DUTY solenoid C is stuck or that circuit is shorted it's possible that DUTY solenoid C is locking the rear transfer clutches and would mean your problem is much simpler. i have a switch spliced in-line for the duty solenoid C so that i can manually lock and unlock the rear transfer clutches when i want and not rely on the TCU to do it. your problem could be related to this solenoid or TCU. you could test this duty solenoid C circuit from the transmission wirring harness. off the top of my head i don't think your *one-tire-off-the-ground* test is quite sufficient for diagnosing this problem. i'm not really sure about that, but i would double check this before assuming that means anything. if i jack up one rear tire i don't know that i would expect it to turn easily on any of my automatic AWD soobs. i seem to recall lifting them up to line up the driveshaft holes after towing (remove/replace driveshaft) and i don't think mine turn when i just lift one wheel).....but again i'm not sure.

i wouldn't be concerned. mine does it and i just drove 1,000 miles to florida. that XT6 also has a new battery and alternator.

no issues. be nice if the speed rating of the tires was close to stock, but that's not a huge concern either. type in "tire size calculator" on the internet if you want to see the difference in speed reading from your stock size. if you drive aggressively and push the limits be prepared for minor differences, changes in stock tire sizes can and will affect handling.

i've had good luck with K&N filters. i've had one on my XT6 at 220,000 miles. i got the car with 105,000 miles and installed the K&N early on. i also ran one on a previous XT6 which i had from 75,000 to 196,000 miles. i emailed another board member about using them on a 1997 OBS and he said he used one with no problems and liked the results. he used the cone style, i use the drop in stock replacement. i have no data on performance except to say i seem to recall (been awhile since i've had it in for over 100,000 miles) it pulling a little better over 3,000 rpms. if you're looking for power, this isn't the way to get it, you'll be disappointed.

rent or borrow a right angle drill and drill out the old bolt. don't use a bolt extractor, they suck and are a pain if they shear off. use a left handed drill bit. might have to saw or break the drill bit to shorten it so it and the drill fit. i've done this before, it is possible and it is the way to fix this.

thanks miles. the clutch is and always has been hard to press in on this car, much harder than my other 2 manual trans XT6's. is there a spring somewhere on the system that i'm missing? i was equally surprised someone had it, luckily autozone has literally like dozens of stores in and around atlanta...like 50 and some are open 24 hours even. i called and they can search all the other stores, one store had it. have fun

got it fixed. one autozone in atlanta had it in stock. installed it without any problems, though it is a pain in the rear end to do. but it's done and fine. i was TOTALLY wondering how to get it to shift. i did get it to shift some when it first broke, but it wasn't consistently going in, now i get it. luckily i was real close to the house i was at and it was on a college campus, so no big deal. just installed it on the side of the road.

could you use stock bolts as studs? just cut the top off? use the longer bolts for the *shorter* holes and possibly find longer one for the longer holes? i know that sounds crazy but studs seem easy enough to make. how hard is it to buy stock and make your own? doesn't sound like fun, but doesn't sound hard either.

found one in stock and it's open until midnight. leaving now to go pick it up. if anyone knows any tricks or how to install a clutch cable please advise. i've pulled a few manual trans and pulled and installed a few auto trans, but never installed a manual trans so i'm not familiar with the cable install or adjustment and i don't have my FSM (IDIOT!!!!!!) thanks.

i'm in atlanta and my clutch cable broke, the end broke off where it attaches to the pedal assembly. i'm trying to rig it now, if anyone could post a picture of where the cable connects to the pedal assemly, just crawl under any manual trans XT6, XT or similar subaru so i can see how the clutch pedal is and what it is attached to that would be huge. any tips on a fix to at least make this drivable are welcome as well. if anyone knows of a parts source in atlanta do let me know as well. a 4wd XT clutch cable will work as well so i've been told. anyone with info/leads/tips can PM or email me their phone number and i'll call back as i'm not sure where i'm staying tonight and my cellphone isn't working. thanks

here's a picture of a recent MAACO paint job on one of my XT6's that i don't drive: http://www.xt6.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1514&start=270 i don't know or care much about paint or what it looks like or i'd comment for you.

i just posted this somewhere else. here's a friends $64 paint job. i woudln't believe it if i didn't know him and his parents! 64 dollar walmart paint. looks awesome....for what it is!!! http://www.xt6.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1440&highlight=paint+job

check this out. 64 dollar paint job. he had no idea what he was doing, just took a couple pointers and started sanding. 64 dollars worth of paint and lots of sanding later and here's the results: http://www.xt6.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1440&highlight=paint+job i wouldn't believe it if i didn't know the kid! turned out great. 2 years later it's still looking good. some clear coat would have helped but he didn't want to spend the $ on it and was happy the way it turned out. the pictures look great, a little better than it looks in person, but an awesome deal for 64 bucks and some sweat.