idosubaru

drove 60 miles today and the crank pulley mark never moved, so the crank pulley is fine, but nice call though. it did this with all antifreeze, all water and mixed. makes no difference. thermostat - don't know i think it was a stock 195 but i took it out and it still does the exact same thing!??!! today i figured i'd test the original radiator that i removed when i suspected it was causing the problems. took that original radiator that was suspect and put it in one of my other XT6's (that motor has brand new everything, gaskets, seals, water pump, thermostat, blah blah blah)....and what happened? same thing...it was running a bit hot. no crap? so maybe it's that i had two bad radiators??? which is strange since i've never had a bad radiator except one that leaked...never had one before that couldn't cool enough. and i don't ever recall that radiator running hot in the car it used to be in, but that was over 2 years ago so who knows. i'm thinking it's the radiator so i'll try a third (KNOWN GOOD) one and see what happens. thanks for the help and the courageous effort for my 50 cents. you all deserve it, it's been fun!

no leakage. no coolant loss. no wetness out of exhaust at start up or otherwise. no antifreeze out of the exhaust. typical head gasket leaks i have seen in the past will actually run fine and won't run hot until it looses some coolant. haven't done a compression test yet.

are the bearings replaceable? the pulleys on two of my spares spin really tight.

don't know about clogging - need to figure out a way to check that, got some ideas. ignition timing, car runs great and i've never messed with it. i'll check timing tomorrow and see if the bolts are all tight. TURBONE - i marked the crank pulley tonight and cranked it up and nothing moved but i didn't drive it anywhere either, just idled it and revved it a bit. i'll check it tomorrow after i start my ride home. if it's only slipping a little, it might only slip once it heats up or is under load, high speed or something. if it slipped alot it would probably be more noticeable and actually overheat.

you deserve 50 cents, but NOT BECAUSE YOU'RE RIGHT!! well, not yet anyway. wait, i got the car with me at work tonight maybe i'll go check if i have a flashlight. the only reason i don't suspect that is that i'm not having any charging problems either. is it possible for cooling to suffer but charging okay? i recall the pulley spinning at what seemed to be reasonable speed at idle. i'll have another look though, i was'nt really thinking about the crank pulley issue, just noticed the water pump spinning when i looked for leaks. didn't think of this one, nice call Turbone!!! i owe you a pepsi. the wife and i do want to go out west! NOW WHO WANTS THIS FIFTY CENTS!!!! i've always taken cooling issues with a grain of salt because they are typically so simple - water pump radiator, caps, fans, tstat and not much else to it. now i'm stumped.

manual trans do not always get better mileage for the same vehicle. usually, yes. always, no. depends on gearing. if the auto is geared higher it can get the same or better mileage than a manual for the same car. those do seem like low mileages.

if you're driving with your differential locked you should not be driving AT ALL. bad news for your center diff in your trans (lots of $$). or drive it off road, then you're fine. got some pastures to drive through to get around? be sure all your tires match. mismatching tires can cause problems like this, though typically it comes and goes/locks and unlocks in my experience.

that is hysterical, thanks for the laugh i'm at work tonight! way to chime in kevin!!

no bubbles in the overflow tank. doubtful it's air in the system as i've never had problems like this before and i've worked on about a zillion XT6's. okay, maybe 10. who wants my 50 cents? and kevin, what IS that picture anyway? random?

wasting your time. do a search, others have asked, soon i won't reply to these questions anymore. i've tried one over a decade ago in a subaru and posted my results.

i was wondering that, but i'm almost positive it's overheating. it gradually climbs up and goes down when i start the car or turn the heat on and goes up further on hot days than cool days...seems linear and all. and it also seems to have gotten worse, so it sounds like a cooling issue of some sort. the gauge is very consistent and giving expected results giving driving conditions, etc. so i don't think it's the gauge. any easy way to check? which sender gives the temperature to the gauge? i'll swap temp senders. i see one in the radiator and one in the motor (under the intake manifold). i figure one turns the fans on and one is for the gauge?? doubtful you scored 50 cents, but i hope you did! thanks!

check the electrical wiring harness connectors above the pedal assembly. pull them apart and put them back together. a bad connector will fall apart, be brittle or severly discolored (brown instead of white)...etc. causing shorts and bad or no connection situations. i think off roading or driving through snow expedites this condition because mud or snow (snow is the worst for me anyway) gets on your shoes and your floorboards and those wires if they hang low enough or you get your foot up there.

pretty sure. but it doesn't matter because i took it out and still the same deal. NO FIFTY CENTS FOR YOU!!! (just kidding, supposed to be funny)

can a new water pump not have enough output? anyway to check? i'm thinking about starting two XT6's up side by side with the coolant cap or hose removed and see if they have the same volume. here's the details: XT6 running hotter than normal. brand new water pump new serpentine belt, pulley spins fine. no coolant leaks. heater blows hot. new thermostat. removed thermostat hard wired fan to stay on. swapped in another radiator. still running hot?

most likely the rear main seal. seal leaks are common. if you need to add oil often i would not suspect the seperator. again i'd bet on the rear main seal. in general yes you can keep adding oil, most older cars need oil on occassion, that's no big deal. it really depends why it's leaking. if it's just seeping out then it's not a big deal, this is usually the case. but there's a chance the seal is pushing out and will come out all the way. that is a bad place to be, all your oil will be on the ground in less than a minute and you run the risk of major engine damage.

anyone posting info on this is a huge help because there isn't a ton of information around on body work and rust. but some of us need it. mine isn't even that bad. so thanks again, i don't know body work from snail psychology. none of the frame or body panels are stainless steel are they? just steel/iron right? (for choice of welder). what if you're fixing exposed body parts/panels? does fiberglass show and does it hold up over time?

open ended hose at the bottom. you're golden.

check the throttle cables and throttle plate (butterfly). it can get dirtied up and tend to stick in certain positions.

check the fluid level first. how many miles? has the fluid ever been changed? change it and see if it's got any bad stuff in it (like parts, flakes or mush). is it AWD? do all the tires match?

starter shouldn't be going out this soon. are you sure your battery cables are on the battery posts tight? any corrosion around the battery terminals? try to jump the car with cables, if that works fine then the starter is fine. if you're stuck, knock the starter a couple times with a hammer and it'll keep working (that's not a joke). i did that to mine in january (on my 89 XT6) and it's been working fine since....which reminds me i meant to replace that when it got warmer. thanks for reminding me. it's really easy. i saw my 97 outback starter while changing the plugs the other day, looked straight forward to replace. probably 2 bolts and the electrical connections to get it out. it's a little tight back there but looks fine. go at it, it's only two bolts!

and when the cv joints break, stay away from the sand and replace them immediately. sand ruined mine in a matter of minutes.

best to confirm what is wrong with the engine first. best thing to do is try to turn the motor over by hand and see if the timing belts are okay. it is possible for the timing belt to get wrapped around the crank and prevent the motor from turning over. unlikely, but possible. does it have oil/coolant in it at all? if it is seized i'd get another motor (rebuilt, used, whatever you want). if you look around and are patient you can grab a motor fairly cheap. pulling the heads and oiling the pistons on a motor that is seized sounds like alot of time for a mistreated, questionable engine. it would probably work, it would just use alot of oil and the oil would degrade fast, depending how bad the blow by is around the rings and cylinder wall wear.

they'll definitely hook you up, they've always been helpful to me. sometimes the city dealers really suck (can't blame them, sure they deal with some serious boneheads), but never problems getting key information.

any dealer can look up the key code from the VIN number. but only IF the original dealership that sold the car entered the key code when purchased. they have to (and typically do) enter the key code information when the car is sold. i've done this a number of times and only once was the number not available. in that case i pulled the numbers off the lock cylinder and they cut it from that. i only had to remove the door panel to see the numbers on the lock cylinder, no need to remove anything else.

i'm installing turbo pistons in an ER27 block...but it's the same set up as the EA82 with just 2 more cylinders. are the turbo rods the same or different from NA rods? i'm thinking install the pistons with new rings? can the block be honed without breaking it apart? EDIT: did some searching and it seems checking the bores, some honing and rering is a good way to go so long as everything checks out. things needed: NEW rings and rod bearings anything else?