idosubaru

will these cupholders also fit in an OBS or just the OBW? my OBS doesn't have any cupholders.

you will not experience any problems driving around without the rear driveshaft. that is perfectly fine. is the POWER light for the transmission blinking 16 times at start up? that would indicate a problem. if DUTY solenoid C is stuck or that circuit is shorted it's possible that DUTY solenoid C is locking the rear transfer clutches and would mean your problem is much simpler. i have a switch spliced in-line for the duty solenoid C so that i can manually lock and unlock the rear transfer clutches when i want and not rely on the TCU to do it. your problem could be related to this solenoid or TCU. you could test this duty solenoid C circuit from the transmission wirring harness. off the top of my head i don't think your *one-tire-off-the-ground* test is quite sufficient for diagnosing this problem. i'm not really sure about that, but i would double check this before assuming that means anything. if i jack up one rear tire i don't know that i would expect it to turn easily on any of my automatic AWD soobs. i seem to recall lifting them up to line up the driveshaft holes after towing (remove/replace driveshaft) and i don't think mine turn when i just lift one wheel).....but again i'm not sure.

i wouldn't be concerned. mine does it and i just drove 1,000 miles to florida. that XT6 also has a new battery and alternator.

no issues. be nice if the speed rating of the tires was close to stock, but that's not a huge concern either. type in "tire size calculator" on the internet if you want to see the difference in speed reading from your stock size. if you drive aggressively and push the limits be prepared for minor differences, changes in stock tire sizes can and will affect handling.

i've had good luck with K&N filters. i've had one on my XT6 at 220,000 miles. i got the car with 105,000 miles and installed the K&N early on. i also ran one on a previous XT6 which i had from 75,000 to 196,000 miles. i emailed another board member about using them on a 1997 OBS and he said he used one with no problems and liked the results. he used the cone style, i use the drop in stock replacement. i have no data on performance except to say i seem to recall (been awhile since i've had it in for over 100,000 miles) it pulling a little better over 3,000 rpms. if you're looking for power, this isn't the way to get it, you'll be disappointed.

rent or borrow a right angle drill and drill out the old bolt. don't use a bolt extractor, they suck and are a pain if they shear off. use a left handed drill bit. might have to saw or break the drill bit to shorten it so it and the drill fit. i've done this before, it is possible and it is the way to fix this.

thanks miles. the clutch is and always has been hard to press in on this car, much harder than my other 2 manual trans XT6's. is there a spring somewhere on the system that i'm missing? i was equally surprised someone had it, luckily autozone has literally like dozens of stores in and around atlanta...like 50 and some are open 24 hours even. i called and they can search all the other stores, one store had it. have fun

got it fixed. one autozone in atlanta had it in stock. installed it without any problems, though it is a pain in the rear end to do. but it's done and fine. i was TOTALLY wondering how to get it to shift. i did get it to shift some when it first broke, but it wasn't consistently going in, now i get it. luckily i was real close to the house i was at and it was on a college campus, so no big deal. just installed it on the side of the road.

could you use stock bolts as studs? just cut the top off? use the longer bolts for the *shorter* holes and possibly find longer one for the longer holes? i know that sounds crazy but studs seem easy enough to make. how hard is it to buy stock and make your own? doesn't sound like fun, but doesn't sound hard either.

found one in stock and it's open until midnight. leaving now to go pick it up. if anyone knows any tricks or how to install a clutch cable please advise. i've pulled a few manual trans and pulled and installed a few auto trans, but never installed a manual trans so i'm not familiar with the cable install or adjustment and i don't have my FSM (IDIOT!!!!!!) thanks.

i'm in atlanta and my clutch cable broke, the end broke off where it attaches to the pedal assembly. i'm trying to rig it now, if anyone could post a picture of where the cable connects to the pedal assemly, just crawl under any manual trans XT6, XT or similar subaru so i can see how the clutch pedal is and what it is attached to that would be huge. any tips on a fix to at least make this drivable are welcome as well. if anyone knows of a parts source in atlanta do let me know as well. a 4wd XT clutch cable will work as well so i've been told. anyone with info/leads/tips can PM or email me their phone number and i'll call back as i'm not sure where i'm staying tonight and my cellphone isn't working. thanks

here's a picture of a recent MAACO paint job on one of my XT6's that i don't drive: http://www.xt6.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1514&start=270 i don't know or care much about paint or what it looks like or i'd comment for you.

i just posted this somewhere else. here's a friends $64 paint job. i woudln't believe it if i didn't know him and his parents! 64 dollar walmart paint. looks awesome....for what it is!!! http://www.xt6.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1440&highlight=paint+job

check this out. 64 dollar paint job. he had no idea what he was doing, just took a couple pointers and started sanding. 64 dollars worth of paint and lots of sanding later and here's the results: http://www.xt6.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1440&highlight=paint+job i wouldn't believe it if i didn't know the kid! turned out great. 2 years later it's still looking good. some clear coat would have helped but he didn't want to spend the $ on it and was happy the way it turned out. the pictures look great, a little better than it looks in person, but an awesome deal for 64 bucks and some sweat.

have you checked your head gaskets? i've seen soobs leak from that area just as you're saying through the headgaskets. they can leak without causing any other symptoms (oil leaks without any coolant leaking or oil-coolant mixing). seen it happen before. really hard to tell without seeing where it's coming from. can you clean up the area really good and let the car idle and look for the dripping? otherwise we're just guessing.

new rebuild and oil consumption of 1 quart per 1000 seems like alot to me. on the A/C - for 200 bucks you can go buy a compressor, buy a vaccum pump and recharge it yourself. vaccum pumps are 10 bucks at harbor freight. buy one, borrow someones compressor and buy some R134a. while everything is dry and open (your a/c system) replace BOTH schrader valves. they cost about 50 cents and require venting the system to replace, so replace them now before you charge it up. replacing o-rings would be nice too, but there are a bunch of them. definitely unscrew the two schrader valves on your compressor and get new ones. (valve removal tool is like 2 dollars, same thing for tire stem valves like in a bicycle or car tire). call around you can probably find somewhere a little cheaper than 200 if it's R134a.

pittsburgh isn't the friendliest environment on older cars. keep it sprayed down and dry as much as you can in the winter, treat whatever rust you can before it gets bad. motor should be at about half it's mileage under two conditions. don't run it hot and dont' run it without good oil supply. if you don't do that you won't toast your motor or run into any costly repairs. replace your thermostat, water pump and make sure that radiator is in real good shape. that's the easy way to make 200 or 300,000 miles.

i always pull a vacuum as well, but my buddy in his impatient mode as normal didn't want to last year in his honda. we removed and replaced the compressor immediately, charged it and it blows antarctic air. his had retained it's previous charge though, the compressor was just inop. i agree with mentioned earlier, if it sat open for awhile you definitely want to pull a vacuum or your a/c could easily start failing soon after.

i've read through this post and i guess i'm out of the loop...what do these head studs offer? are they only viable for forced induction applications? do they offer anything for NA engines? may consider a set for the XT6 if they are that good, seems to be alot of talk about them. did we ever answer the re-usability question? can you pull them from a blown block and reinstall them on another? or can you pull them to do some block work and then reinstall in the same block?

LSD rear end may help next time. friend plowed his neon through a few feet of snow all the way off the road. wasn't sure if i could drag him through all that snow with packed snow and regular street tires. i felt the tires just start to slip and the LSD kicked in and pulled him right out no problems. pictures would have been sweet, i'll be sure to carry my new digicam with me this winter. may have pulled him out just fine without the LSD, but i definitely felt it kicking in and kept the car pulling nice and straight.

there is no possibility of engine damage due to a broken belt on an XT6. if someone told you there is, then they either don't know or are lying. i own a bunch of these things and have done timing belts about 50 times. put new timing belts on and go to town. heed the last persons advice, change everything up front while the timing belts are off - cam seals, crank seal, oil pump seal and water pump. you can buy all these items for like 30 dollars from www.thepartsbin.com . if you don't change this stuff now, then you'll be charged 200 dollars again just to replace a 5 dollar cam seal. or 200 dollars to replace a 16 dollar water pump because they'll have to remove the timing belts to get to them.

verify the problem first. options if it is the muffler: they should be able to do it while you wait if you call ahead of time and politely ask for a convenient time when they aren't very busy. mufflers don't take long at all to install. tell them you will be waiting for it and ask for a time estimate. i woudln't personally tell them why you're waiting because i don't trust people - if you tell a good salesmen why he'll probably say "oh we can't do that", knowing that you probaby won't act on the warranty if you have to make the drive twice. you could also ask them if you could pay for a higher quality stainless muffler (minus the difference of the replacement they would typically install), but have it installed for free since they'd have to install another one under warranty anyway. or buy a stainless at a local shop and have the midas install it for free in place of the warranty but non-stainless option. check with them first, may be company policy to not install other mufflers. i got a muffler shop in atlanta to install an aftermarket muffler i bought while i waited - very fast. it was not a direct fit, larger pipe and they were done in like 30 or 40 minutes while i waited.

what does AW in AWIC stand for? i'd like some more info on supercharger installation. what issues are there to confront? i assume you need a blow off valve to compensate for when the throttle closes. and something to cut boost once it reaches whatever max boost you want. for instance if you want to stop at 10 psi...you need some sort of cutoff right? awesome setup, thanks for posting the pictures.

make sure your battery terminals/cables are good as well. if they don't tighten well, replace them. that's one of the best 3 dollar preventative maintenance items around. that would keep me from working on many friends cars!

chris, oil pump gasket, crank seal, cam seals are most likely culprits. valve covers are also possible, but i think they should have spotted that for you while under there and it sounds centrally located. the central location (oil pan) sounds more like crank area/oil pump gasket. all of these items require removing the timing belt which runs a few hundred at a shop. the seals generally cost less than 10 dollars each, the labor to get to them is the killer. that's why i'm doing my own next week. those long rods you speak of are axles.