idosubaru

check the electrical wiring harness connectors above the pedal assembly. pull them apart and put them back together. a bad connector will fall apart, be brittle or severly discolored (brown instead of white)...etc. causing shorts and bad or no connection situations. i think off roading or driving through snow expedites this condition because mud or snow (snow is the worst for me anyway) gets on your shoes and your floorboards and those wires if they hang low enough or you get your foot up there.

pretty sure. but it doesn't matter because i took it out and still the same deal. NO FIFTY CENTS FOR YOU!!! (just kidding, supposed to be funny)

can a new water pump not have enough output? anyway to check? i'm thinking about starting two XT6's up side by side with the coolant cap or hose removed and see if they have the same volume. here's the details: XT6 running hotter than normal. brand new water pump new serpentine belt, pulley spins fine. no coolant leaks. heater blows hot. new thermostat. removed thermostat hard wired fan to stay on. swapped in another radiator. still running hot?

most likely the rear main seal. seal leaks are common. if you need to add oil often i would not suspect the seperator. again i'd bet on the rear main seal. in general yes you can keep adding oil, most older cars need oil on occassion, that's no big deal. it really depends why it's leaking. if it's just seeping out then it's not a big deal, this is usually the case. but there's a chance the seal is pushing out and will come out all the way. that is a bad place to be, all your oil will be on the ground in less than a minute and you run the risk of major engine damage.

anyone posting info on this is a huge help because there isn't a ton of information around on body work and rust. but some of us need it. mine isn't even that bad. so thanks again, i don't know body work from snail psychology. none of the frame or body panels are stainless steel are they? just steel/iron right? (for choice of welder). what if you're fixing exposed body parts/panels? does fiberglass show and does it hold up over time?

open ended hose at the bottom. you're golden.

check the throttle cables and throttle plate (butterfly). it can get dirtied up and tend to stick in certain positions.

check the fluid level first. how many miles? has the fluid ever been changed? change it and see if it's got any bad stuff in it (like parts, flakes or mush). is it AWD? do all the tires match?

starter shouldn't be going out this soon. are you sure your battery cables are on the battery posts tight? any corrosion around the battery terminals? try to jump the car with cables, if that works fine then the starter is fine. if you're stuck, knock the starter a couple times with a hammer and it'll keep working (that's not a joke). i did that to mine in january (on my 89 XT6) and it's been working fine since....which reminds me i meant to replace that when it got warmer. thanks for reminding me. it's really easy. i saw my 97 outback starter while changing the plugs the other day, looked straight forward to replace. probably 2 bolts and the electrical connections to get it out. it's a little tight back there but looks fine. go at it, it's only two bolts!

and when the cv joints break, stay away from the sand and replace them immediately. sand ruined mine in a matter of minutes.

best to confirm what is wrong with the engine first. best thing to do is try to turn the motor over by hand and see if the timing belts are okay. it is possible for the timing belt to get wrapped around the crank and prevent the motor from turning over. unlikely, but possible. does it have oil/coolant in it at all? if it is seized i'd get another motor (rebuilt, used, whatever you want). if you look around and are patient you can grab a motor fairly cheap. pulling the heads and oiling the pistons on a motor that is seized sounds like alot of time for a mistreated, questionable engine. it would probably work, it would just use alot of oil and the oil would degrade fast, depending how bad the blow by is around the rings and cylinder wall wear.

they'll definitely hook you up, they've always been helpful to me. sometimes the city dealers really suck (can't blame them, sure they deal with some serious boneheads), but never problems getting key information.

any dealer can look up the key code from the VIN number. but only IF the original dealership that sold the car entered the key code when purchased. they have to (and typically do) enter the key code information when the car is sold. i've done this a number of times and only once was the number not available. in that case i pulled the numbers off the lock cylinder and they cut it from that. i only had to remove the door panel to see the numbers on the lock cylinder, no need to remove anything else.

i'm installing turbo pistons in an ER27 block...but it's the same set up as the EA82 with just 2 more cylinders. are the turbo rods the same or different from NA rods? i'm thinking install the pistons with new rings? can the block be honed without breaking it apart? EDIT: did some searching and it seems checking the bores, some honing and rering is a good way to go so long as everything checks out. things needed: NEW rings and rod bearings anything else?

any good machine shop should be able to fix that like pat just mentioned. i'd look to go that route. you should be able to find a used one as well, it's not normally a wear item so i'd never even think to replace it with a new one. any idea how the damage happened? if it's due to impact i would probably replace rather than repair it as it could be out of balance or warped or something not worth messing with.

autozone has the coolant temp, not sure about the TPS though. make sure the wiring harness connector is good and the wiring to the TPS is good. also be sure the throttle plate isn't sticking. check the cables and pull the intake hose off the throttle body and see how dirty/clean the throttle plate is. they can easily stick, causing issues. if you still suspect the TPS, just pick up a used unit for a couple dollars from someone or a yard. they don't fail very often so they should be easy to pick up. this may have nothing to do with you...you have a different motor than an EA82 right? the FSM for the XT6...maybe the XT if it has the same TPS, is wrong. if you try to adjust it to spec's from the FSM it won't work.

be careful replacing the fusible link, you might just keep burning them out until you replace that alternator. i've bought some fusible link wire from NAPA (a few feet of it, enough to make a number or fusible links) and made my own on short notice. then i replaced them with the real thing. grab a used alternator from somewhere, i may have one lying around if you're interested PM or email me. see what a local rebuilding charges to rebuild yours. or if you're industrious pull it apart and see where you get yourself. replace the brushes and i know someone who has pulled them apart before. he said there's a solder joint that looks to break loose. your problem could be as easy as a solder joint. never rebuilt one myself so i can't tell you anymore. i seem to recall he just resoldered that joint before.

the XT6's have the vacuum hose routing pictured under the engine hood. RX aint like that? yeah fuel return is close to the other fuel lines by the fuel filter.

i don't mean to be rude but you just heard from people who have done it. i can show you errors in the haynes manuals and even a few in the FSM. and there are typically short cuts around some procedures anyway. start pullin that joker.

i'd install a used transmission from a yard....couple hundred. a local trans shop here in MD will install an AWD transmission that you supply (with new filter) for 150-200. you won't need the filter though because you have a manual. source a used trans for 300, pay somewhere to install it for 200 and you saved 1,500. i'd rather do that twice then pay all that money for a rebuild on a car with that many miles. that 1,500 could be better put towards tune ups, timing belts, radiators, pulleys, wheel bearings...etc. that's how i'd do it anyway. 2,000 is a decent deal and that's good of him to throw in that timing belt stuff as well. i'd replace the water pump and reseal the oil pump as well. at that mileage i think i'd honestly replace all the timing belt pulleys if you want to keep this thing awhile. or at the minimum ask him to check the pulley bearings for noise. when the bearings in the t-belt pulleys seize they wear the belt out in real short order and leave you stranded. thermostat should be replaced as well.

you need an alternator and a fusible link (little black box by the battery). you'll need the black link. it may be useable, but it's likely failed or degraded, i would replace it. sorry i blew it off earlier, the XT6 electrical system is a burden on the system and can cuase lights to dim when under load (a/c, radio, head lights, fog lights, blinkers...etc).

you have to remove the ball joint bolt to remove the drive axles? that sucks.

first note - lots of people on here like pulling the engine but the head gaskets on the EA82 can be easily done in a day without pulling the motor and require no special tools. i have also pulled a couple motors, but i find doing it in the engine much quicker if i want the car back on the road as soon as possible. it is super duper convenient to pull it though if you have the space and equipment. it is easier but you have lots of hoses, throttle cables, wires, sensors, and the entire pulling and installing process to deal with. but it is the only way to get to the rear main seal and an excellent way to get to the oil pan. doing the oil pan under the car sucks the big one. push the a/c compressor to the side gently and it won't leak out. leave it contorted for as short of a time as possible. when pulling this motor...if it's an automatic it might be nice if it's your first time with an automatic to pull the motor and trans at the same time (they'll both come out together, still attached). the 4EAT auto trans on the XT6 can be tricky and i personally know of a few people that have not gotten it right and cracked the internal transmission oil pump. the problem is that the torque converter slides in easily but the last 1/2" or so is very tricky to get it to seat properly. if you just pull the engine, be sure to seat the transmission perfectly and don't let it come back out until you bolt the motor up. it's not hard at all if you just want to pull the motor, just make sure you seat the torque converter all the way...it's hard to tell if it goes that last 1/2 inch or so....it usually takes a few minutes, which seem like a half an hour because you're just turning the thing around and around and it doesn't seem to go anywhere then finally it drops right in. if you dont and try to bolt the engine to the trans, it'll crack the pump or shaft inside....then it gets ungly from there. also - source the "ring seal" as the dealer calls it and the torque converter seal. i would replace both of these with the motor out. grease the ring seal really good and be sure the old one comes out and is not left down in the trans opening. source these ahead of time, they likely won't have the ring seal in stock. old ones can be really brittle or bent. i've seen them crack right in half the minute you touch them and also pulled them off all twisted and gnarled. i'd have an extra one handy.

that's a good shop to do that for you. most will say they can't charge without checking for leaks first. that's what they tell all my friends anyway, i don't let anyone touch mine.

it's up to you if it's reasonable. if paying extra for a loaner and getting it done quick is fine by you then go get it done and be done with it. i think it's kind of high, i'd look for around 150. if you were in maryland i'd do it for 150. i would expect more miles out of a new axle, but if it's by the exhaust like someone mentioned then that will degrade the rubber quicker like they said. on another note, if you can put up with the smell and noise there is no reason you need to worry about taking them on the trip, they will not fail. i've driven over 50,000 miles on boot torn, clicking CV's. just stay out of hard core off roading and sand. my current ride has 220,000 miles and the rear CV has been cracked for like 100,000 miles. though the rears articulate much less than the fronts. i was in georgia and was tearing it up in some off road sand and my front joint that had been broken forever started sounding terrible from all the sand getting in there. still drove the 800 miles home to maryland without a problem...the cv's were even clicking while driving straight at this point. that's generally my personal rule of thumb, change them when it's convenient (like the tire is already coming off for somethign else) or when they start making noise while driving straight (which will take a loooong time) in that case, i changed the axle as soon as i got home. i've driven butt loads of miles on cv axles and the only one i ever had break was BRAND NEW!!! i write all of this because before i knew anything about cars i used to freak out about CV joints because they don't sound good when they start clicking and it is related to the wheel sort of so i didn't know enough about it to keep from getting freaked out and having it fixed right away. now that i know, i like others to be informed so they don't worry as much as i did.