idosubaru

so you can remove the canister. and you can plug two of the lines in the engine bay that run to the canister. but one needs to be left open to vent the gas tank? is that right. damn, i leaveing for wedding/honeymoon right now and probably will miss the rest of this discussion.

i'm still confused. why don't the manufacturers just *plug the lines* from the dealer? no gases will escape right? i've never understood that freaking thing. is this system how air gets into the gas tank as fuel is pumped out? with fuel pumping out of a completely closed systeme, that would create a vacuum in the gas tank. i'm really wanting a good explanation of why this canister has to be there. why were fuel systems *vented* to the atmosphere to begin with?

can you remove the canister without significant gas mileage or motor running issues? i'd like to pull the entire canister out and plug up all 3 lines going to the canister or just remove them if i can. is that what you're talking about? what does that thing do anyway? will it still pass emissions?

this is funny, sort of ironic. i sold a manual XT6 transmission to a guy in either Michigan or Minnesota (i think it was michigan, one of those "M" states out there), when i was living in georgia. shipping was 86.00 via UPS. it was *just* under their 140 pound weight limit back then. of course they had to take my word for it since they couldn't get it on the scale. the lady was laughing at us. i strapped it to some 2x4's, wrapped in plastic and drove it to the atlanta airport where the UPS drop is. they took it and it got there. that was probably 5 years ago, shipping regulations and prices have changed since then, but might want to check. it was a slight pain in the rump roast, but doable for what it is and i couldn't believe it was only 86.00. but it was.

avoid JB weld if you plan on keeping the car for an extended period.

definitely best to pull the pan and weld it. or just install one from a yard or someone parting one out for a couple bucks. make sure the pan isn't dented such that it restricts the flow of oil to the sump. more likely on an auto transmission pan than oil pan, but best to check just to be sure that clearance isn't reduced. i'd attempt to drill and tap the pan and install a bolt in the hole. or drill and insert a self tapping screw it was too thin to tap. if the pan was too thin then i'd go back to welding it. pulling the pan requires unbolting motor and trans mounts and raising/tilting the motor to get the sump to clear the baffles in the pan. pulling the pan is annoying and getting a good seal with the new gasket is equally annoying, if the current pan gasket doesn't leak i'd try this method first to see how it goes. ill go ahead and tell you others on the board will think this is a stupid idea.

on the cylinder walls, if you open up a 200,000 miles subaru that's been well maintained the cross hatching will look new in the cylinders as well. i haven't seen one yet that didn't have excellent cylinder walls and cross hatching at 200,000 miles. seen one block that had some tiny divots along the lip of the cylinder from driving on a blown head gasket but otherwise the cylinder walls have always looked perfect at the ones i've looked into.

the bearings can be replaced. you'll need a local bearing supplier (unless you can find them online, i have not found them on line for my subaru XT6's). but i did find suppliers that sell the bearings. you'd need a press to remove the old and install the new bearings. the part number is right across the face of the bearings. take them to a bearing supply place and they can either get the exact same one or cross reference the part number to other brands.

i run without them. before i ran without them i had 3 failed bearings and a broken oil pump pulley (which snapped the timing belt) WITH timing covers, so i wouldn't blame any failure of that sort to running without covers. that's with alot of miles of driving on a couple XT6's. i think it's most beneficial if you're doing the work to your own car, makes timing belt replacement super quick and super easy. if you don't, i wouldn't worry about it unless they're in the way somehow. i've seen them rubbing belts before if they are contorted or deformed enough.

may want to check http://www.xt6.net as well, there are a few XT Turbo owners there that may be able to help.

you probably didn't do any damage unless you were covering a significant number of miles like this. i know two people that had their manual XT6's towed on two wheels and never had any problems. if you want to pull this move consistently you could remove the rear drive shaft. assuming it's all snow and frozen ground you shouldn't get stuck if you're accustomed to driving in snow/offroad. keep driveshaft in car just in case! changing your fluids is a nice things to do for your trans, particularly with any abnormal driving conditions such as this.

flashlight and mirror will help you check the cable where it plugs into the back of the odometer. reach up in there and have a look at things. might have just pulled out.

no need to replace your oil pump. and if an oil pump made that much difference in driving there was some other issue, this is not typical.

cars are replaceable, urban coyote is not. glad you made out okay, that stuff is nothing to mess with.

i would definitely replace the head gasket and forget about the block. i don't know what this motor has been through, but generally the block should be fine in my oppinion. definitely have the heads checked no matter what by a machine shop. they will need to be machined. i have yet to take a head in (even if it didn't have head gasket problems) that was perfectly flat. they always need some amount of machining (mine have all had relatively high mileage, like yours). should have a valve job and new valve stem seals installed as well. clean every single head bolt and head bolt hole and lightly oil the holes for a good torque reading. do not short cut. clean the mating surfaces (block and head - machine shop will clean the head if you take it to them). do not scratch the block or head mating surface, clean it until it's completely free of anything. do not short cut any of these steps, head gaskets are not something you want to be doing again.

does the clutch need to be pushed in to start the transmission? all manual XT6's (4 of them) i've ever owned don't need the clutch pushed in to start. i just picked up another that must have the clutch pressed in to start? the inhibitor switch prevents the auto from starting in the wrong gear, but that's located on the transmission itself so that shouldn't be the issue. did you disconnect the TCU? double check the starter connections. are the starters the same for the auto and manual? for the XT6 manual and 4EAT auto's the starters are different. that shouldn't prevent it from turning over or getting juice though. the starter isn't getting any juice at all? is the distribotor plugged in properly? i've disconnected that before and had no start problems after major engine/trans work. unless i'm not understanding the cable issue, it should spark when you touch it to the battery terminal. unless every car i've owned had issues, mine have always done that.

i'd check the contacts and the wiring harness that plugs into the sensor. i wouldn't be surprised if the sensor is fine. i just mentioned this in another thread, i've driven 350,000 miles on a couple XT6's and have only had one sensor failure (MAF - broken wire). every other sensor failure was fixable by cleaning contacts, new connector, or fixing the wiring at the plastic connector. i even had a knock sensor code once and the connection at the wiring harness was bad.

wally world also sells adapters really cheap, not sure if they sell one for the newer models. they have one for like "various imports" or something that works on the XT6. but verify the labeling - it doesn't work for the XT6 you have to figure the wires out yourself. if you found one for the newer models i would bet the wiring would be right though. XT6's are strange birds, like that needs to be said.

demand is high because people want new cars and they have a desire to have them dealer maintained. the short answer is dealers can charge this because people will pay it. but really you're asking the wrong question....if you're surprised the real question is why are people paying these prices? if i started a car shop charging 12,345 dollars per hour and stayed in business you woud ask why people are paying that. if i went out of business you'd say i'm a dumb rump roast for charging that high. well dealers arent' going out of business so the question remains, "why are people paying this much?" general public is unskilled and does not know much about cars (or anything else in my oppinion). general population is not capable of doing anything to their car or even know much about it. the american population is being highly swayed towards non technical fields and that mindset of fixing anything yourself. universities in the US graduated 1/6 as many engineers (technical fields are showing this general trend) than china but 3 times as many lawyers last year. lawyers don't work on cars. technically minded people do. quick fix is the american way, why bother being resourceful or learning something when money gets them what they want? they just went in debt 30,000 for a car that's worth 25,000 when they sign the papers, why quibble over small change maintenance fees? i don't know about your area but my area is overrun with new cars. i'm hard pressed to even find anything from the 90's. very interesting phenomenon to me, as growing up in the 80's there were lots of older cars. it's amazing how many new cars there are these days, 20 years ago that was not the case. the economy is much better now and people are leveraging their affluence for driving nicer cars. (possibly a local trend). the desire for new cars is an ever expanding one that is spreading as much as advertising will allow it. with all these new cars, there are people willing to pay for dealer services.

there are also aftermarket lockers. phantom grips and detroit lockers for instance. these would be ideal in theory, though i don't know their reliability. i have an LSD and i like it in the snow and off road. particularly helpful when pulling someone else out of the snow/mud and your rear wants to break loose. i have started slipping in deep snow while pulling someone else and feel the LSD temporarily lock up and regain solid traction. $225 gets you a 3.7 lsd if you PM or email me.

i've welded the exhaust in various spots, including at the y-pipe. look for rust issues, otherwise you'll be fine.

it's not there anymore, no point in asking him for pictures.

same here, i drove an XT5 (XT6 with a dead cylinder) with no problems. once was spark plug wire not connected another time was bad HLA's on that cylinder. drove it awhile on the fault HLA's before i got around to fixing it.

#1- 125 #2- 145 #3- 130 #4- 135 did you prop the throttle body open and remove ALL the spark plugs when doing this compression test? if you don't, this can make your compression results less accurate and cause further variation between cylinders. no matter the method used, these values look fine to me. i would not be concerned about a block showing these numbers unless there is some other issue. unless there are other major problems i would expect this block to be reliable beyond the life of many other parts on the vehicle.

be helpful to know what motor this is. if it's an EA82 you definitely don't need any special tools. the tensioners are up to you, i doubt you need to replace them if they were replaced with new. the tensioners can last the life of the motor, but of course they can fail as well. EA82 tensioners are cheap enough to justify replacing them if you want to feel better about it. cheap enough from thepartsbin or something, maybe not you're dealer! if you're not sure, check them when you pull the belts. spin the pulley, if it's not noisey and there's no play then there's no reason to replace it. if there is any play in the pulley (like it wiggles on the shaft) or they are tight then definitely replace them. i highly doubt you'll experience this though. the bearings can vary in noise levels quite a bit, so that's more subjective. more than likely yours will spin nice and quiet. even if one was a little bit louder than another that doesn't necessarily mean much. when i check older subaru pulleys they typically vary in noise level - one might be a little louder than the next. so don't freak out about that, just post back here and let us know if you're not sure. shaft play and tightness or a lumpy feeling are VERY definitive signs to replace the pulley. noise is not so definitive. these following comments are not recommendations, just options to be complete about the subject, i don't recommend either of these unless you really want to. buying new or leaving the old should do you just fine. you can also by hypodermic needles at tractor supply stores (or probably elsewhere) for greasing tight areas. these can be used to grease the pulley bearings, which are the failure point of the pulleys. i've never done it, but know someone who has. i am getting ready to install a motor and look to try this. you can also source bearings and have new ones pressed in the pulleys, but probably not worth the money or time investment since EA82 pulleys are so cheap and easy to get. but if you had access to a press and the pulleys were expensive this would be an option.