idosubaru

if you buy a bolt on hitch then it will bolt on easily. if you get a generic receiver and want to start drilling and welding then you can. easiest to find a made to fit assembly that bolts up. there aren't any for my old school soob so i have to drill and bolt myself. if you can't find a bolt on kit it would probably be best to pay someone else to do it. compared to the cost of the car the cost of this install is miniscule at most.

by swapping "it" you mean just the engine? if the pronoun meant the engine/trans assembly then you need more parts, but sounds like you got the answer you were looking for.

use a socket extension, the crank pulley is very tight, i would not rely on a screwdriver to hold without breaking. jam the flywheel (alternately you can put it in gear if it's a 5 speed). standard threads like just mentioned. use a large pipe over the socket handle or a breaker bar to get it off. it's a cast bolt and cast crank that it's threaded into so stripping the threads should not be an issue (ie it's not aluminum like some of the engine parts). if you can't get it, you need more leverage, something longer. pipe over the socket handle is my preferred method, works great. another option for the brave, is to let the socket wrench on the crank pulley and turn it until it rests against the lower motor mount. then crank the engine over real quick with the starter (don't start the motor, just bump the starter real quick - unplug the disty/ignition coil wire to prevent starting). the socket wrench will not go anywhere because of the engine mount holding it and the bolt will back out. i did it once about 10 years ago on my XT6 when i first started because i didn't know how else to do it, i was just learning the ropes. this can save much time on cars with horrible access to the crank bolt, but that's not subaru's, with the right tools it should come right off. remember how tight this joker is when you go to reinstall, you don't want the bolt to come loose while driving it will cause you all sorts of headaches. get it real tight. also always be sure to remove whatever it is you stuck in the flywheel when removing/installing the crank pulley. don't want to turn the motor over with something wedged in the flywheel.

agreed, they are servicable even if they are staked in. i've done it. but again it's a tedious process. i'm not sure what this means: "so this IS the authoritive silver bullet to the TOD?" the HVLA's are not a miracle cure for ticking. they are only if the HVLA's are causing the ticking. if your oil pump isn't properly sealed or is out of spec or you have a massive leak somewhere then you can install brand new HVLA's and still have a noisey engine. there is no one size fits all cure to HVLA noise. HVLA failure and oil pump seals/gaskets are the most common causes (the latter being the most common failure point in my experience). at 5 or 6 bucks each (even cheaper if you send your own in) it's definitely a no brainer to replace them while the engine is apart.

i'd guess: 35 for the driveshaft 55 for the rear diff rear CV axles - 30 for both. not sure what rear suspension stuff you're talking about? sounds like youre trying to convert to FWD? so you'd install a lighter transmission as well, that may be a significant as well. all told i think you could come close to that 200 figure above if you removed everything possible. if yo'ure looking for better gas mileage, weight won't make much difference if you drive mostly highway miles. if you drive lots of stop and go/city traffic then it might. i drive highway miles all the time and i've had no problem getting the same 27ish mileage whether i'm bone dry or carrying a couple hundred pounds...like 2 motors in the trunk and a full set of WRX wheels i had in my car for a couple hundred miles on monday. back when i was in college i'd pack everything i owned in my car from floorboard to ceiling and head off on my 700 miles treck. mileage was always the same as just driving with an empty car.

someone on XT6.net used their HVLA's on a completely rebuilt ER27 and seemed pleased with them. rebuilding them yourself is an interesting learning experience but otherwise time consuming and tedious. i've done a bunch, pretty sure i'll purchase the rest. cleaning them yourself definitely works and brings them back to excellent working order. i've never had TOD issues and all i've ever done is reseal the oil pump when needed. never needed to do anything fancy or any tricks or additives. i cleaned HVLA's when doing head gaskets as preventative maintenance. had two HVLA's fail (stuck), they were not serviceable. no amount of heat, ATF, DIESEL, MMO, soaking or prying would allow me to disassemble them. they were replaced with extra's i had and cleaned.

looks fine for fixing, not bad at all. i'm not a body person at all either, but things don't look terribly crumpled and twisted which is a good thing. if you want it to drive, then fix it. if you want it to look real good and everything to line up perfectly afterward then...well you can still do it, but it'll be tougher to get it perfect if yo'ure picky. i just fixed a friends honda, pictures here. though they don't show the hood crumpled and how far back it was pushed. (http://www.xt6.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4605) finished that car today. didn't replace any body parts and it looks decent, better than i thought it would. i could replace the bumper and hood and one fender and that would help alot. the hood would be tricky to line up with the latch though as the latch is still back an inch or so (even after pulling it out and hammering and using two nuts between the latch and the radiator support to push it out. so, a new hood would be tricky to line up as it would stick out even further than the existing crumpled hood. i got the crumpled hood flattened out as much as possible and it doesn't look too bad. all in all so long as the motor lasts a couple months we may slap another hood and bumper on it, just run it for a couple months to make sure the motor/trans are okay before putting much $ into it only to find the head gaskets blew because the motor ran too long after the accident (uncle drove it an unknown distance after the wreck). i would drive this honda the way it is today, but i don't care much what a car looks like. i mean i like a nice looking car but don't like what it takes to keep them that way, so mine generally stay in well used condition. good luck,

don't think i'd re-torque head bolts after substantial mileage. i'd ask someone who knows (better than me) before proceeding on that. seems like a bad idea to loosen headbolts on a 20,000 mile motor.

so moosens, you wanna call that master tech now and see what he says? seems silly to reseal an entire motor and not replace that one dinky o-ring, particularly after seeing what mine looked like on the last one i took apart. it's like Ross said, it was very difficult to get out. but when i put it back in it was not very tight. definitely didn't seem nearly as tight going in as coming out. maybe i'll just smother the o-ring/sump end with anaerobic sealant next time, that's probably a decent solution.

good call on the depth of install. when installing the new seal be sure to oil the outside and grease the inside (where it will ride against the crank shaft. don't jam it home if it starts to go in cocked. keep it going straight in the whole time.

the oil sump that hangs down in the oil pan has an o-ring at the base where it's pressed into the block. anyone ever replace it? i replaced one on my XT6 and it was a BEAST to get the sump out of the block, like it's pressed in or something. was wondering if there's anything that needs to be done when reinstalling? picked up an EA82 today and am thinking about replacing that o-ring (the one in my XT6 fell apart and was the consistency of egg crate material when i pulled it out....although there was nothing wrong with the oil supply in the motor at 220,000 miles). maybe i should leave it alone?

carbed, SPFI, MPFI....are all EA82 block oil pumps identical and require the same seals/o-rings for a oil pump reseal? got a carbed block with turbo heads on it and want to make sure the oil pump parts are the same.

it gains you a good bit. the 3.7 drops the rpm's alot...like 750 RPM off the top of my head. makes a huge difference in gas mileage as well. my automatics get BETTER mileage than my manuals because they are geared much better for highway driving (i have all XT6's). they are basically the same but for all highway driving the auto gets 28 and the manuals get me 27 mpg. the difference in mileage would be much larger if it was comparing manual transmissions but the XT6 never had a 3.7 manual trans option. that's one reason i like the automatics, they are much quieter on the highways. get a 3.7 in your manual trans i would expect a decent gain in gas mileage and definitley quieter rides.

not all were AWD, there was a FWD (auto only) option as well. maybe you misread my post, i was asking if the XTTurbo FT4WD trans was the same as the AWD XT6 trans. sounds like the FT4WD XT works the same as the AWD XT6 trans. yep, i have the duty solenoid C switch installed. excellent little mod.

ah that makes sense. is there any difference between the FT4WD and the AWD on the XT6 (speaking of manual trans)?

i understand those differences, still wondering why people prefer the FT4WD trans over the part time 4WD? or maybe they don't.

i haven't looked at it yet other than the body and quick glance of the interior. i'll have a peak at the diff. if it's a 3.7 then i see no need to swap trans. what's the difference between a FT4WD and the part time 4WD? why do people like the FT4WD so much? they both 5 speed and 3.7?

i removed a pedal assembly without pulling the steering column...DUMB. don't try it unless you like lots of time getting no where and beating things, using foul language.....ha ha ha.....

cut and weld a new nipple on there...HA HA!!! if you know what you're doing in terms of getting the gas fumes out of the tank: cut if off or seal it off and drill/tap a new hole and screw a fitting in place. as a matter of fact i don't know what this nipple looks like but you maybe be able to tap the inside of the nipple and thread an insert inside of it. but then you reduce your ID. if you drain the tank and let it air out you should be able to weld something on there. but don't do it unless you're confident all the fumes and such are gone and you know what you're doing. i'm sure i'll get bombarded for this, but in my experience short cuts don't have near the rigidity of a job done right. JB weld is good.....but wouldn't expect long life or high miles out of the repair. i've had JB weld do some really cool stuff, i've also had it fall apart over long periods of time. i avoid it now, or consider it a temporary solution and would never use it on someone elses car.

AWESOME! glad i was incorrect! thanks again all.

i originally was looking for a manual FWD XT. i pushed 40 mpg in my old one driving all highway miles. it was only 3 years old when i got it in 1991. i could get 500 miles on a tank on all highway trips. that's what i'm aiming for now. this FT4WD XT Turbo was close, had a blown motor (i wanted to a put a new one in anyway) and from someone from the board so it was a good match. hopefully it does well, i'm converting it to NA, i'll be removing the turbo. mine is a push buttom 4WD 5 speed right? TROGDOR, i should be moving out to morgantown next year and be going through there a few times between now and then maybe we'll meet up? which trans is it that is FWD until you put it in 4WD? wouldn't those get better mileage since they are FWD unless you put it in 4WD? i guess it doesn't make much difference really.... you guys are great putting up with all my stupid questions...i was pretty confident it was a 3.9 trans, i'm still learning all this as you can tell. thanks for all the help folks,

87.5 XT Turbo FT4WD, i thought those were all 3.9's? but i'm just learning all this EA82 interchange stuff. quite confusing. any idea what thread that was, i didn't see it when i was searching. a rear 3.7 turns fewer times at a given speed than a 3.9 so i'd think having a 3.7 rear diff would offer the best mileage for highway driving (and that's how it plays out with my auto 3.7 and manual 3.9's on the XT6's). so i'd like to have a 3.7 in my XT when i'm done. but - if the 3.9 trans are better then maybe i could get the 3.7 front diff into my FT4WD trans (if it's 3.9 now, which i thought it had to be).

i'm converting my FT4WD XT Turbo to NA and building this thing for the best gas mileage possible. a 3.7 transmission should get better gas mileage than a 3.9 right? or do the 4 speed trans get less than the 5 speeds? i guess the determining factor is the final drive ratios? anyone know which trans has the best final drive ratio for highway gas mileage? i'm thinking maybe swapping a 3.7 front diff into my FT4WD 5 speed trans may be the way to go if that's possible.

i'm not interested in polluting but i'll justify EGR removal by the fact that i'm gearing this vehicle towards optimum gas mileage so it can't be worse than what i'm putting out now with my XT6.

the first and only EA82 i worked on for a guy on the XT6 group had that stupid tube connected at the bottom of the drivers side head, that thing was annoying. definitley getting rid of it on mine if it has it and i don't need it.