idosubaru

keep calling local auto parts places. try www.thepartsbin.com or www.rockauto.com

try bleeding again later, i've had the brake feel soft right after installing them as well. wonder if it takes some time for the piston to seat, pads to seat...i don't know, but i've had them tighten up just fine for no apparent reason???

how about a compression check for the coolant loss issues. did you try getting it up to operating temperature and then pulling the throttle open while looks under the hood. sometimes very small leaks won't be visible very easily - heat, higher rpm's and wiggling some hoses might help show it's face. or let it idle in the same place for 30 minutes and looking underneath. any coolant out the exhaust? wet floorboard on the passengers side?

dirtbag

i think i'd use the one that the gas pedal is connected to. i think one will only pull back if the other is beyond the *rest* position, so i wouldn't use that one. the other will pull independently i believe. i'm in ohio and drove my truck otherwise i'm tempted to go inspect for you. whichever one moves independently is the one i'd use. it's only moving the throttle plate (and the TPS) so as long as you choose the rocker that has full independent motion you'll be golden.

passengers side is super easy to do, so i'd just fix it and see what happens. visually inspect your cam lobe and see if it's eaten up or worn down. compare it to another cam if you have one available or compare the lobe to the other lobes. if you can't tell anything, take it to a machine shop and have them mic it and see if it's true. or.....just get another cam, can't be that hard to find one for a couple dollars. get another rocker arm as well. check the HLA, could that have collapsed or failed in some way? see if you can depress it by hand.

is the air filter dirty or intake obstructed? do a compression test test for spark or get a new ignition coil how is your timing? check your timing belt alignment and tensioner pulleys. you have fuel pressure gauge you can use?

if you ask or have them look them up, they may say that they don't have any exhaust bolts that fit or there is no part number listed for a subaru. but they will have ones that work. they may not be EXACTLY the same, but you'd never notice the difference. i've always found it best to take one in and match it up.

i doubt it's your converter. easy way to tell is to unbolt the converter and let it hang there while you take a ride with your exhaust *open*.

is it AWD - check your driveshaft. the ujoints go bad. pull the driveshaft and feel the ujoint. it will either be seized or feel lumpy. sometimes you can see it visually if you know what you're looking for and it's bad enough. inspect your rims - they could be bent or have some damage to them. rotate your tires and see if the vibration changes or moves.

replace your thermostat. if it's stuck closed you can experience exactly what you have here. do not drive the car while it's running this hot. not good for engine, seals or gaskets.

check oil level change your oil what viscosity are you using?

does he have an EA82T? the first post just says EA82. that being the case he may not want his power band quite as high as a very large exhaust with no cat converter will put him.

here's a picture of an LSD rear end. Foil sticker on the end shows LSD. If the sticker is moving you can turn the stub axles (or wheels or rotors...you get the point). When you turn one side the other side turns the OPPOSITE way then it's an open diff. If when you turn one side the other side turns the SAME way then it's an LSD. If the sticker is missing you'd have to count the turn ratio to determine if it's a 3.7 or 3.9.

i have an old broken belt i use to hold the cam in place while i turn the bolt (if i can't loosen the bolts before removing the belt, that's the easy way. a little tricky but i did it yesterday with the motor in the car, so out of the car should be easy. actually if you torque it really fast and turn the cam with the socket, many times the bolts will break loose when teh cam tightens as it's pushing the valves in just by turning the cam. also can use a wrench and socket. probably risk stripping one, but i've done it before and never had a problem. do it to all three (yes the last one will break loose as you're tightening another to hold it in place, but one they have all been broken they'll come off).

what is this MAF Mod - is there information elsewhere on this? pardon HJ, just point me elsewhere or start another thread.

have they addressed this issue at all? what prevents the *new* gasket from blowing? did they make changes to it or the torquing procedures? i haven't heard anyone mention that. on dodge neons they introduced an improved gasket to prevent future failures. has subaru done the same?

BOV maybe? (ha you like that...after yesterday i had to try to take a stab at answering a turbo question!) that's not stupid, that's an excellent question. a stupid question is....well i'm not going to say because i asked it but so did someone else so i don't want them to think i'm poking fun, lest i get called potty mouth names. but i've asked much dumber questions. side note - mudrat asked me in PM about torque converter mods (he saw "converter" in my sig, ha ha!) on the 4EAT, i told him to talk to you about yours and your valve body. back to up-pipe question........

removing the snorkel is a minor gain, you may or may not notice. probably sounds better than anything else. can hear the intake a little more.

this is an EA82 right? are you saying that particular motor isn't doing it for you or are you saying it's running worse than it has in the past. seems like a good running EA82 should be functional. i don't recall my XT (my frist soob, it was like 3 years old) having any problems with speed or hills. it wasn't for racing, but had plenty of power for daily driving. a quality tune up can do wonders. new spark plugs, ignition wires (i highly recommend magnecor ignition wires), distributor cap, rotor, ignition coil, PCV valve. remove any dead weight in the car....lots of tools, random things. if you do alot of highspeed driving (highway driving, driving up and down mountains in high gear) then open up your exhaust a bit with a better muffler (i've had excellent results with dynomax mufflers) and slightly larger pipe. if you don't do much high speed driving i would still open the exhaust up some, but not quite as much because you'll loose some low end. if you get the right set up you can probably gain some high end power with little or no loss. definetly pull the snorkel off the intake and get a drop in K&N or a cone style filter. how much do you want to spend.....should i keep going? you could pull the heads and have a valve job done and have them ported and polished. about 500 dollars total for that kind of head work (that's for both heads). and another 150 for some aftermarket cams while you have the cams removed for the head work. these prices go through the roof if you're not pulling the heads yourself. you could swap your EA82 for an EA82T (that's the tubo motor)

dynomax muffler sounds fantastic on an XT6. not very loud, but it sound good.

the cheap tool is a small box that fits multiple styles, one will fit the subaru piston. but....there was talk recently at xt6.net about a tool that is much easier to use than this small square socket attachment. it sounded like a better tool but i can't recall the details for it.

if it's clicking then a new boot or grease won't matter. actually sometimes adding grease will mitigate clicking...but yours is still sealed. is grease leaking out the side of the clamp? normally i'd say keep driving, as i've gone 50,000 + miles on busted boots and clicking joints. but the fact that you had a minor accident on that side and the boot is still good and it's clicking while going straight....sounds strange. i had a brand new axle (week or two old maybe) blow up on me a year and a half ago so anything is possible i guess. i'd say safest bet is to fix it. but i'll also be honest and say in my college days i wouldn't have done anything about it myself. like i said, i've driven 50,000 miles at least on axles more than once with no problems. i have two busted boots right now (one rear one left) and i have no plans to address them anytime soon. probably by summer, 20,000 miles from now i might look at the front. should be able to pick up a used one for next to nothing, couple dollars or even free. heck, i'd take a non-clicking axle with a broken boot over one with all that clicking.

if it's clicking then a new boot or grease won't matter. actually sometimes adding grease will mitigate clicking...but yours is still sealed. is grease leaking out the side of the clamp? normally i'd say keep driving, as i've gone 50,000 + miles on busted boots and clicking joints. but the fact that you had a minor accident on that side and the boot is still good and it's clicking while going straight....sounds strange. i had a brand new axle (week or two old maybe) blow up on me a year and a half ago so anything is possible i guess. i'd say safest bet is to fix it. but i'll also be honest and say in my college days i wouldn't have done anything about it myself. like i said, i've driven 50,000 miles at least on axles more than once with no problems. i have two busted boots right now (one rear one left) and i have no plans to address them anytime soon. probably by summer, 20,000 miles from now i might look at the front.

on the XT6 (slightly larger calipers?) it can take a long time to get extended pistons back in place. i've turned and turned forever before and it just seems like it's never going to go back in. i wouldn't open the bleeder screw, i'd just remove the master cylinder cap to allow fluid to back up into the rservoir without building pressure and blowing seals. that's how i always do it. i've done this on all my XT6's and i've never replaced any brake parts but pads and rotors (only once on 3 different XT6's). as the piston retracts you'll see the fluid level rise. use an oversized eye dropper to suck some fluid out of the reservoir before continuing to press the piston in and the reservoir overflows. while everything is off, if you feel comfortable you could rebuild the calipers. it's super easy. you can pick up rebuild kits for like 10 bucks or less on the internet and that's good for both sides. blow the piston out, clean the piston and bore out really good and replace the seal and boot and you're done. you've got completely rebuilt calipers for 10 bucks. i did it for the first time this summer, very straight forward. time consuming turning the pistons back in and out, but straight forward and you have to move the piston anyway.