idosubaru

oil pan gasket definitely won't keep your car from running. like they said, check things out before replacing it as it could be something else. you can also go around and tighten the bolts to the oil pan gasket. tightening the bolts can reduce clearance that develps over the years. a jack and some 2x4's are all you need to do the pan gasket. an annoying job and they like to leak soon after replacement anyway because the oil pan itself is thin and deformed at the bolt holes and generally just hard to get a good seal. i would stop thinking about the oil pan gasket at the moment. clean it all up and run it, see where the oil is coming from.

i ordered XT6 coretco gasket sets for two friends in NZ and myself. the sets don't come with those clip on o-rings for the oil galleys between the cam carrier and the head. there are 3 on each side. 2 are round, 1 is oblong. (there are 4 on an EA82 4 cylinder). Dealer wants 10.00 EACH for the oblong ones and 15.00 EACH for the smaller round ones. That would be $80.00 for one motor. Subaruparts.com isn't much cheaper (11.13 and 7.38 respectively). Part Numbers: Round ones 13089AA000 Oblong ones 13090AA000 anyone have better sources or prices for these? anyone know what these cost in NZ, can you down under guys hook me up with prices there? anyone ever reuse the old ones? mine are newer because i have some from a Fel Pro kit that includes them, but i want to help my buds from NZ (they aren't on this board). thanks,

price dependent of course: flywheel and/or flexplate stopper for AWD XT6 XT6 Drivers Side Timing Belt Adjuster Stopper Part# 13082AA000

check codes wiggle the connector around. if you said your sensor was bad i probably wouldn't believe you...in my 11 years of driving subarus it's always the temperature sensor CONTACTS, not the sensor. replacing the sensor will often cure the problem, but it's usually temporary because the wiring harness that plugs into it will be corroded. here's a mini-write-up i did at www.xt6.net about fixing the water temp sensor: i pulled the water temperature sensor out and soldered wires directly to the terminals of the water temperature sensor (see picture). Then i put heat shrink tubing around each terminal and installed the sensor with male/female (engine side) electrical connectors so i can remove or replace th sensor. when i cut the wire on the engine side the copper wire had the typical green corrossion. i cut it back a few inches and noticed it was still green. The insulation was intact, it had the factory electrical tape all wrapped around it, but it was corroded back a few inches. i pulled the wire (along with the oil pressure sending unit wire) out the back of the motor to have a look. i cut off more and noticed it was also green. so i cut off all the way to the engine electrical harness and installed new wiring from there. car now starts, runs and idles much better than before. i guess when the harness gets old and corroded, moisture gets up into the wiring (under the insulation) from the wiring harness and begins to corrode the wire. funny thing too....the wire was very very hard where it went through the engine. i would snap as soon as i went to cut it, very brittle. but when it got to the engine harness (towards the back of the engine) it was more pliable and like normal wire. i guess heat (and moisture possibly) made it brittle over time. in any event, something to look at if you have electrical or sensor problems or keep in mind. glad to never think about that water temperature sensor again, that thing was annoying! i think every XT6 i've ever owned has had that problem.

depending how large the bolt head is, you may have problems with clearance around the manifold. the nuts that come on many late 80's subaru's are awesome for the exhaust. the nuts are very small and don't have any clearance issues. try using a bolt or any other nut and they become annoying. put a request in the market place and someone probably has some to sell you for cheap. i find it hard to believe no parts store down there has 10mm 1.25 pitch exhaust studs. find someone who knows what they are doing, i think you're talking to too many people that are incompetent. im from a small town as well....we dont' even have an autozone or advanced auto parts to go to but the local shop has tons of 10mm x 1.25 pitch studs. if you're looking to do this cheap, forget all the talk about machine shops...just go to home depot or lowes and buy a bunch of the same length bolts that are 10mm and 1.25 pitch. saw the heads off if they are too big for clearance. if you buy a tap (very inexpensive) you can thread the bolts yourself. driving to a machine shop and handing them one bolt to thread sounds like way too much effort for such a simple task. any junk yards close by, these bolts should be a dime a dozen.

open up your exhaust bigger turbo intercooler

in my experience with soobs the auto parts store WILL have the studs you need, they just won't list the application. in other words, just take an old one with you and match it up. if they fell out, seems like the threads likely stripped. you can try just running a tap through there to clean the threads and then using a longer than stock stud to possibly reach more threads located beyond where the stock stud used to reside. i do that all the time on stripped bolts when i don't feel like using my heli coil kits or there's no room. works most of the time, though i've never done it to exhaust studs.

run new speaker wire. rest should be straight forward.

another thing to check, the compressor may function properly but it's possible for the air hoses to not be connected properly. the plastic fitment can crack and either come off completely or leak at the air compressor. so it will run, but it won't do anything. check all the connections at the air compressor, right where the lines meet the compressor you should see a plastic fitting sort of thing. make sure none are cracked. solenoids can all be tested - give them 12 volts and listen for them to click. do yourself a huge favor and replace ALL your orings while you're working on this thing. air tank, compressor, struts, solenoids, replace all the orings. i've never had much problem with my XT6's. i converted one years ago and will never do it again, i like the air suspension. i've had to replace one compressor in 101,000 miles on my current daily driver. other than that no problems. i think some of the other subaru air suspensions tend to be a little older than the XT6 though.

post right before yours kevin says "N/A". craziness. wonder where in the power band it's making those numbers. was it dyno'ed or is that a guess? i'd like to see list of mods it takes to get there as well. RAM gets 50 percent or more increase on their EA81's but they have the ability to make the heads dual port instead of the stock single port - XT6 comes stock with one port per cylinder. they also use a custom designed intake, custom engine management, cams reground, lighter and redesigned pistons, redisigned aluminum valve rockers, recurved distributor, custom pulleys, no a/c and they bench flow test the heads.

i run no timing covers without problems but the cam sprockets and idler pulley's definetly get rust on them. i drive 30,000 miles a year at least so sitting idle does not contribute to the rust. it gets plenty of use and temps to rid itself of water, but the faces of the pulleys, the cam sprockets and even the pulley surfaces a little bit get rust on them. i don't like it but i hate having all the plastic in the way even more. like miles said i can easily do my timing belts in like 30 minutes (the XT6 is harder than the 4 cylinders). when i tear the engine down i hope to paint or coat them with something to prevent the rust. doesn't really hurt anything but would be nice to keep it clean. anyone know if paint or some kind of powder coat would work on cam sprockets or the pulley faces? by pulley faces i mean the front, where the bolt slides through.

go to the local tractor supply store. pick up one of those hypodermic needle adaptors. start refilling all your "sealed" bearings. The serpentine tensioner pulley, the alternator and so on. slip the hypo needle under the dust seal and work the tip gently into a space between the BB's and pump the gun till the grease (and water and crud) comes poppin out.

i have *heard* that using an aftermarket coil can cause these kinds of problems. i'd like to hear some detailed information and how we can use aftermarket coils WITHOUT having this problem.

there's another type of tool that i have heard about on another group that they use for the XT6 (same type of piston in the caliper). i'm not sure what it's called but it works much better...anyone know? i'm tempted to use an old piston to drill through it and see how deep it is. i'd like to drill a hole and tap it so i can just thread a bolt in there and turn it with a wrench. those cubes can be very annoying.

keep calling local auto parts places. try www.thepartsbin.com or www.rockauto.com

try bleeding again later, i've had the brake feel soft right after installing them as well. wonder if it takes some time for the piston to seat, pads to seat...i don't know, but i've had them tighten up just fine for no apparent reason???

how about a compression check for the coolant loss issues. did you try getting it up to operating temperature and then pulling the throttle open while looks under the hood. sometimes very small leaks won't be visible very easily - heat, higher rpm's and wiggling some hoses might help show it's face. or let it idle in the same place for 30 minutes and looking underneath. any coolant out the exhaust? wet floorboard on the passengers side?

dirtbag

i think i'd use the one that the gas pedal is connected to. i think one will only pull back if the other is beyond the *rest* position, so i wouldn't use that one. the other will pull independently i believe. i'm in ohio and drove my truck otherwise i'm tempted to go inspect for you. whichever one moves independently is the one i'd use. it's only moving the throttle plate (and the TPS) so as long as you choose the rocker that has full independent motion you'll be golden.

passengers side is super easy to do, so i'd just fix it and see what happens. visually inspect your cam lobe and see if it's eaten up or worn down. compare it to another cam if you have one available or compare the lobe to the other lobes. if you can't tell anything, take it to a machine shop and have them mic it and see if it's true. or.....just get another cam, can't be that hard to find one for a couple dollars. get another rocker arm as well. check the HLA, could that have collapsed or failed in some way? see if you can depress it by hand.

is the air filter dirty or intake obstructed? do a compression test test for spark or get a new ignition coil how is your timing? check your timing belt alignment and tensioner pulleys. you have fuel pressure gauge you can use?

if you ask or have them look them up, they may say that they don't have any exhaust bolts that fit or there is no part number listed for a subaru. but they will have ones that work. they may not be EXACTLY the same, but you'd never notice the difference. i've always found it best to take one in and match it up.

i doubt it's your converter. easy way to tell is to unbolt the converter and let it hang there while you take a ride with your exhaust *open*.

is it AWD - check your driveshaft. the ujoints go bad. pull the driveshaft and feel the ujoint. it will either be seized or feel lumpy. sometimes you can see it visually if you know what you're looking for and it's bad enough. inspect your rims - they could be bent or have some damage to them. rotate your tires and see if the vibration changes or moves.

replace your thermostat. if it's stuck closed you can experience exactly what you have here. do not drive the car while it's running this hot. not good for engine, seals or gaskets.