idosubaru

The stubby shaft stays with the transmission, it's not part of the axle. Punch the pin out (3/16" I think) and the axle slides right off the stubby shaft. Slide the new axle on and punch the pin back in. Keep in mind the axle only slides onto that stubby shaft one way. The holes line up two ways but it can be 180 degrees off. Look at the splines and how they are oriented with the holes. One side the valley is in the middle, the other side the peak is in the middle of the hole. Hard to explain but just look at how the splines interact with the two holes in the CV alxe cup when you remove it and you'll see. You guessed right. They are configured and installed exactly like EJ axles. I have EJ axles on mine (though it takes some extra steps to convert, they don't directly swap although I've seen people do it before!).

Okay, remove the headliner and map lights. Apparently they differ across years/models. I've removed trim between headliner and sunroof and the bolts are accessible under the headliner and through the sunroof assembly itself If the sunroof doesn't move at all, that may inhibit bolt access for some. On some models you remove the light fixture up front and there's an access to manually move the sunroof.

Is it using coolant? I'd guess the coolant or oil getting into the combustion chamber is causing poor ignition and drivability issues, not compression loss. If it got really bad I'd expect it to be blowing exhuast gas into the coolant and impossible to mitigate overheating. The tough part is the "wrong torque specs". Are you sure it was the wrong specs? If it weren't for that I'd be close to condemning this engine. Sounds like it's been through D-Day without a helmet. Two owners ago ditched it with some reworked or replacement parts (as indicated by the pop up sensors) but wasn't worth keeping or following through on Prior owner - it was too bad or too cheap to fix Somewhere in that mix was a autoshop that pawned it off without fixig it Now there's more issues I'm assuming too much and making it sound worse than it probably is. But all of that is suspicious. Maybe with some flat heads, block check, and proper torque down it's all good, don't know.

It should be a full sunroof that slides back. Yours is just one right (it doesn't have a moonroof and sunroof dual does it, I don't think that's an option in 2011?). The headliner should have an obvious formed portion beyond the sunroof where the sunroof assembly extends to receive the retracted sunroof. It should fully retract. 1: When you press the left button, the one that "does nothing", do you hear the motor try to do anything or it just does nothing? The buttons/controls are probably the issue, not the sunroof. May be able to fix them. If the leak could be anywhere near the controls, that could even cause them to be flaky. Dry it out and it may function fine. You shouldn't have to touch the headliner, the entire sunroof assembly is replaceable without removing the headliner.

Please don't say it that way! reaching the era where finding an OEM one on the vehicle is practically impossible.

EA82 are green - so starting in 1985 at least. Unsure about earlier EA81.

If it’s green like that pic do no throw it away. It’s gold - 100x more reliable than any brand you can buy from stores new. Regrease and reboot and they’ll last the life of the vehicle usually. Aftermarkets fail in multiple ways and are true garbage. They’re made so poorly because laziness and shop time wins over replacing the boot.

There was a lot of confusion over EJ25 head gasket torque, I'm not sure why it was changed. But presumably it was for a reason, you may have stumbled on that reason. Do you know the vehicles history prior to the last 35,000 miles (before the first time you replaced the headgasket)? Did the block surface seem reasonable? If you don't suspect the block to be problematic then redoing the heads with the new torque values would be a reasonable choice. But I can understand the interest in other options too.

I think I use these on that screw. they also work for holding the unique xt6 only drivers side timing tensioners. https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-3-Piece-Steel-Handle-Multi-Bit-Screwdriver-Set/1000596621?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-tol-_-ggl-_-LIA_TOL_218_Mechanic-Automotive-Tools-_-1000596621-_-local-_-0-_-0&ds_rl=1286981&gbraid=0AAAAAD2B2W8VmsOQLvD1S3AoW7QlM1MdO&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2IWxrdS5_AIVlb7ICh21gAgQEAQYASABEgIDHfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Yes. You need a new boot or axle. If by luck the inner joint is green that’s OEM, replace the boot and keep that quality axle. All aftermarket Subaru axle brands are terrible.

Are you absolutely positive all the windows were all the way up and fully seated/sealed shut? The most common issue is you got unlucky and a window wasn't fully shut during a torrential downpour. Door locks and speakers (which are inside the door). can get glitchy from water. They can also return to nominal functions once dried out, more on that later. That's wild guessing based on very little information so let's get serious: Describe exactly where and how much? Both front seat foot wells, rear seats too? Which one of those is most wet? How deep was it? Like there was water standing above the carpet? Ideally you don't ever turn the car on with that much water and humidity in the vehicle. You pull up all the carpets as much as possible without removing them - fronts can "roll back" so to speak from the front of the car and thenn just flop them over on the seat cushion. Sop up any water with water proof vaccuum and/or towels and air dry with fans/dehumidifier. Get the moisture our immediately and dont' turn the car on as much as you can avoid it. The humidity and dampness can cause erratic electrical behavior. If you get it dried it they can go back to functioning normally with a thorough dry out. Or of course it could be damaged, you never know. If it's that saturated it's probably the sunroof. Could be a windshield leak through the gasket. Check very closely around the sunroof and windshield perimeter, search every inch looking for dampness. There's no wetness on the center console, around the shifter, on the seat, on the front dash below the windshield? Go to a spray car wash and sit inside while someone blasts the sprayer around the sunroof and windshield - where's it coming in?

That's awesome, sounds like a fun machine to drive at least for a bit!

I'm not talking about the starter, I meant to say "igition cylinder" not ignition solenoid. I'm talking about inside the vehicle. Look up under the steering wheel. Find where the wires are soldered onto the back of the ignition cylinder. There's a tiny phillips head screw there. Tighten it. It comes loose and causes the board the wires are soldered on to walk back away and reduce contact with the switch. I can't recall if the bottom steering column cover needs to come off and I'm at work right now so I can't go look at mine, but if it does be very careful. They have long threaded rods you can see that readily break and the covers themselves break. They aren't available from Subaru and are hard to find because everyone needs them.

Actually forget all of this for a moment - it just popped into my head, XT6's have a little tiny phillips head screw on the back of the ignition that gets loose over time. Find the 4 wire (i think) black electrical connector for the ignition solenoid. Follow the wires all the way back to where they're soldered onto the back of the ignition. A few millimeters away from the wires you'll see a tiny phillips head screw - tighten it. It's been awhile since i've done one, you might need a right angle screw driver. There's a very high chance it's loose and limiting contact. Once you check this screw then go back to the relay.

All the pictures are gone but some of the text may be helpful.

That's awesome. Is that the actual one you drove or is it a similar photo grab you found?

Awesome! So you think the cables were bad? In case it comes back keep these things in mind: 1. replace the starter contacts. Starter is 2 12mm bolts and easy to remove. Disassemble it and the contacts are like $10. Much cheaper and more reliable than aftermarket new starters which can fail in less than a year. The old contacts will be burnt, pitted, warn. 2. Older gen Subaru's very commonly have a starter signal issue from the signal wire/ignition/reference voltage. Here's a thread that I think somewhat describes it.

Ha we own that movie, great flick. For some reason I don't recall those parts and must of missed them!?! Land Rovers were assembled and parts manufactured in south africa starting back in the 50's or 60's and have well over a half a century of developing a strong network of assembly plants, parts manufacturing, supplies, and distribution. So I think their excellent utility is supported by dependable networks more than strict individual reliability. Which, as an XT6 and H6 driver I might favor ubiquitous parts availability over reliability. lol

Oh yeah, I can see it appearing that way if you've heard of the old school 3 speeds. XT6's all have 4 speeds, but they only have 1-2-D on the selector. They just don't have a selectable 3rd and 4th. XT6 auto's have a fantastic beastly transmissions, it's the same transmission found in all legacy/forester/impreza's from 1990-2009 though they seem far less prone to torque bind. Excellent transmission.

If it’s an engine starter with 100amps available, it was set right, connections to clean metal was sufficient, and the starter cables aren’t thin cheap garbage then yes the cable or starter is bad. But some huge clarifiers: clamps and cables are way harder to get right than most people think particularly in this day and age of cheap Chinese garbage clamps and cables. “Charger” - what kind? Lithium Ion like a NEECO or corded 120V power pack pushing 100 amps? The lithium packs do poorly on batteries as bad as you’re saying unless it’s a huge beefy one If it’s a plugged in variety and if equipped with settings, was it set to “engine start”? Charging is like 40 amps, starting is like 100. “directly from a charger to the starter mean” - where was it clamped? Directly from charger to starter suggests it was fed power to the starter bypassing the cables so those can’t be the issue. And this isn’t a bad test to do but it’s a little tricky to get clamps down there or run wire. But you’re suggesting the cable is bad so maybe you mean the charger was clamped to the cables or battery terminals? Thats hard to say - often times the clamps don’t provide enough surface area of clean contact to pull all the amps necessary. I’ve got huge heavy duty heavy gauge cables that work most of the time and light duty cables that often won’t start a car, can’t get good contact and the cables get very warm after trying to start a car. Those cheap cables and poor connections cause lots of misdiagnosis. And the 10V battery is useless so we need great connections Many chargers and clamps and connections aren’t solid enough for pulling 100 amp engine charger/starter. I don’t think this matters here but XT6s never came with a 3 speed auto. So you either have an XT6 with 4EAT, XT with 3AT, or it was converted which is highly unlikely.

Unlike newer autos which can be excellent, those autos are horrible. Highly not recommended to do that swap. You’ve got a couple options some are very simple: 1. remove rear half of driveshaft and locked 4WD will now be FWD. 2. Unbolt the 4WD cable from the bracket on the side of the trans, so you can manually move the lever on the side of the trans. Manually push it forward abs back for fwd and 4WD. Be advised it doesn’t move easily. 3. Remove the cable from the 4WD and bolt a long rod to it so you can just grab it under the hood and pull it back and forth for 4WD or FWD. Ive run a rod like that and routed it inside the cabin passengers side, but I don’t recommend it . I used some of that long straight steel they have at Lowe’s. 3. Fix it. Check vacuum lines and the big bellows looking actuator. That’s probably the issue

P0171 Bank one system lean. A vacuum hose issue might cause brake issue and system lean? I'll check brake booster? Right on, didn't cross my mind. It is full. Today he said the parking brake didn't work. I found a TSB for 2010-2014 unlimited mileage 15 year extended warranty on the automatic parking break module. TSB 06-71-19R https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10166898-0001.pdf

Why is the brake light flashing with check engine light, but nothing else is on? 2014 H4 OB If it’s brake related the traction, ABS and cruise lights would light up. But this isn’t doing that. There's a TSB for the parking brake actuator failure. Though it doesn't mention if the check engine light comes on: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10162997-9999.pdf Gas cap and oring is fine. I’m going to operate the parking brake a few times, check the coolant level. I’m traveling for holiday and not my car so I’ll drive it later to read codes at store.

Battery/alt voltage good? Any recent work or prior accidents around air bag stuff: steering wheel, front bumper/sensors or passengers side heater core or dash? If it’s ever been in an accident or recent work check connectors in that area and front sensors. Horn and cruise work? I’d suspect clock spring, they fail often, unsure how consistent 90s SRS codes are. “Airbag module (passenger)” - does that mean the passenger air bag? Can you tell by looking at the whole list of codes?

You have a bad battery. I described that *exact* situation earlier: