idosubaru

What "part"? Axles don't have bolts, do you mean the 32 mm axle nut and threads it threads onto are damaged? Did you pound the outer CV joint threads that go through the hub and wheel bearing? As you found out, that compresses and damages the threads. Just the outer CV joint (with the 32mm threads/nut) can be removed and replaced, but it requires technique and a lot of force. But if the two axles aren't the made by same company I'm not sure they always play well together.

I’m unsure but it doesn’t seem like rod knock. Since it didn’t do it with the previous head then Occam’s razor suggests it’s probably something with the: 1. Used head 2. Timing belt components (since those were removed for the head swap) 3. Very unlikely it’s something that just happened to start making noise exactly when the new head was installed.

Ah I see that. Thanks. OP how do you know the fuel is good? that’s MPFI and requires more psi than carbed engines. starting fluid excellent suggestion.

88-91 XT relays are on the upper left of the photo you posted, above that brownish connector tucked agaisnt the side wall behind the fuse panel. But how can a relay fail and still allow the car to start and run for a moment? Sounds like a waste of time to me but maybe someone can chime in which relay (fuel pump?) and how they fail that allows them to prime and start but not run? I'd pull the fuel line first and see if fuel flows out like normal. Remove fuel clamp, point hose in bucket while priming and trying to start the vehicle. If you're not sure what the flow is supposed to look like video it and post a link. It should roughly look like a garden hosing flow water. Or of course even better - the proper test is to put a Tee in with a fuel pressure gauge.

Does it go to 3k immediately and die without running more than 2 seconds, or does it do it once you hit the gas pedal? Or randomly? Will it stay running if you keep your foot on the gas before it "drops to 0"? Have you tried "read memory" mode to see if there's more codes than just that one? Any modifications or recent work to the engine or wiring? 1. check/test/clean out the idle control valve - they get carbon build up and stick internally 2. Check fuel pressure. 3. Check the contacts/connector wiring of the CTS. The contacts inside the connector get badly corroded so installing another sensor doesn't help. It's also very common to need to replace the entire pigtail and some wiring if the corrosion has crept back up under the wiring insulation. This is very common on these. I've even cut a notch in the CTS sensor, cut the plastic connector off and soldered new wire directly to the CTS terminals to bypass bad old gen connectors and wiring. There's a common fuel injector plug that's a direct fit but I'm not sure if 86 differ in anyway from 88-91 I'm more familiar with. 4. The wiring on these old engines tends to "break" and have poor contact inside the insulation very close to the connectors on the engines themselves. And I've seen this happen with no trouble code/check engine light. Massage the wiring from each connector where it plugs into the engine and your way back about 4-6". Do this while the engine is running or trying to start multiple times. That's how I've found a few. If it changes while you're doing it or throws a code - you found the issue. CTS, idle control, throttle position. Oddly even though there are far more of them I've not seen/heard of it happening to injector connectors.

Pardon my dumb question I'm sure I'm reading this wrong but are you sure that's the right thermoswitch you're looking for? Since it has a pressure switch I can only imagine that being the A/C or transmission - is that the thermoswitch someone wired funny? Correcting custom wiring can be confusign when you don't know what the previous owner did. Can you post a larger picture of that same diagram? Or tell me what section and page it's on (I Have XT6 FSM's).

Call local Subaru dealer. Pin is the same as all legacy Outback Forster Impreza 1990-2004 and later so probably in stock. Message me an address and I’ll ship you one. Use a local UPS store address if you don’t want to give out home address. I wouldn’t use “any 6mm pin”. I’ve used a variety of things before temporarily but it’s been awhile so I forget what. So try something but I’d consider anything but OEM a temp fix. I wouldn’t something else to not fatigue or rust over time.

It beeps when you're approaching another object at a high rate of speed. If you have heavy feet on both pedals or are in congested areas it's going to beep a lot as you outpace the slower vehicles in front of you. It'll also beep if a vehicle is coming up behind you quickly around the blind spot and it receives steering input similar to a lane change. At first the side view mirror lights flash to grab your attention but ramps up to beeping if it escalates.

Wow, very nice. Why wouldn't someone buy that!?

Oh yeah. They can get seriously wedged in there. If it’s an automatic you can remove the axle from the hub first. Then yank hard on the axle and it’ll pull the stubby shaft out of the trans. It’s just held in with a circlip. bw careful when it comes out that you don’t damage the shaft seal in the trans then you can at least work at it on easier or ask a machine shop to do it. Ive had plenty of objects jammed in there and gotten them out every time on the vehicle. Use a proper sized punch and tap it back the opposite way it was jammed in there while wiggling, wriggling and cussing for a long time. They’ve always come out but often with a lot of effort and tools available. a drill bit can work but they’re brittle and break easily with impact. If you had to try one again use them backwards so the drill side which is flat is entering the cv joint hole first. If it’s a manual the shaft can’t be removed and you have to get that hole freed up.

The stubby shaft stays with the transmission, it's not part of the axle. Punch the pin out (3/16" I think) and the axle slides right off the stubby shaft. Slide the new axle on and punch the pin back in. Keep in mind the axle only slides onto that stubby shaft one way. The holes line up two ways but it can be 180 degrees off. Look at the splines and how they are oriented with the holes. One side the valley is in the middle, the other side the peak is in the middle of the hole. Hard to explain but just look at how the splines interact with the two holes in the CV alxe cup when you remove it and you'll see. You guessed right. They are configured and installed exactly like EJ axles. I have EJ axles on mine (though it takes some extra steps to convert, they don't directly swap although I've seen people do it before!).

Okay, remove the headliner and map lights. Apparently they differ across years/models. I've removed trim between headliner and sunroof and the bolts are accessible under the headliner and through the sunroof assembly itself If the sunroof doesn't move at all, that may inhibit bolt access for some. On some models you remove the light fixture up front and there's an access to manually move the sunroof.

Is it using coolant? I'd guess the coolant or oil getting into the combustion chamber is causing poor ignition and drivability issues, not compression loss. If it got really bad I'd expect it to be blowing exhuast gas into the coolant and impossible to mitigate overheating. The tough part is the "wrong torque specs". Are you sure it was the wrong specs? If it weren't for that I'd be close to condemning this engine. Sounds like it's been through D-Day without a helmet. Two owners ago ditched it with some reworked or replacement parts (as indicated by the pop up sensors) but wasn't worth keeping or following through on Prior owner - it was too bad or too cheap to fix Somewhere in that mix was a autoshop that pawned it off without fixig it Now there's more issues I'm assuming too much and making it sound worse than it probably is. But all of that is suspicious. Maybe with some flat heads, block check, and proper torque down it's all good, don't know.

It should be a full sunroof that slides back. Yours is just one right (it doesn't have a moonroof and sunroof dual does it, I don't think that's an option in 2011?). The headliner should have an obvious formed portion beyond the sunroof where the sunroof assembly extends to receive the retracted sunroof. It should fully retract. 1: When you press the left button, the one that "does nothing", do you hear the motor try to do anything or it just does nothing? The buttons/controls are probably the issue, not the sunroof. May be able to fix them. If the leak could be anywhere near the controls, that could even cause them to be flaky. Dry it out and it may function fine. You shouldn't have to touch the headliner, the entire sunroof assembly is replaceable without removing the headliner.

Please don't say it that way! reaching the era where finding an OEM one on the vehicle is practically impossible.

EA82 are green - so starting in 1985 at least. Unsure about earlier EA81.

If it’s green like that pic do no throw it away. It’s gold - 100x more reliable than any brand you can buy from stores new. Regrease and reboot and they’ll last the life of the vehicle usually. Aftermarkets fail in multiple ways and are true garbage. They’re made so poorly because laziness and shop time wins over replacing the boot.

There was a lot of confusion over EJ25 head gasket torque, I'm not sure why it was changed. But presumably it was for a reason, you may have stumbled on that reason. Do you know the vehicles history prior to the last 35,000 miles (before the first time you replaced the headgasket)? Did the block surface seem reasonable? If you don't suspect the block to be problematic then redoing the heads with the new torque values would be a reasonable choice. But I can understand the interest in other options too.

I think I use these on that screw. they also work for holding the unique xt6 only drivers side timing tensioners. https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-3-Piece-Steel-Handle-Multi-Bit-Screwdriver-Set/1000596621?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-tol-_-ggl-_-LIA_TOL_218_Mechanic-Automotive-Tools-_-1000596621-_-local-_-0-_-0&ds_rl=1286981&gbraid=0AAAAAD2B2W8VmsOQLvD1S3AoW7QlM1MdO&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2IWxrdS5_AIVlb7ICh21gAgQEAQYASABEgIDHfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Yes. You need a new boot or axle. If by luck the inner joint is green that’s OEM, replace the boot and keep that quality axle. All aftermarket Subaru axle brands are terrible.

Are you absolutely positive all the windows were all the way up and fully seated/sealed shut? The most common issue is you got unlucky and a window wasn't fully shut during a torrential downpour. Door locks and speakers (which are inside the door). can get glitchy from water. They can also return to nominal functions once dried out, more on that later. That's wild guessing based on very little information so let's get serious: Describe exactly where and how much? Both front seat foot wells, rear seats too? Which one of those is most wet? How deep was it? Like there was water standing above the carpet? Ideally you don't ever turn the car on with that much water and humidity in the vehicle. You pull up all the carpets as much as possible without removing them - fronts can "roll back" so to speak from the front of the car and thenn just flop them over on the seat cushion. Sop up any water with water proof vaccuum and/or towels and air dry with fans/dehumidifier. Get the moisture our immediately and dont' turn the car on as much as you can avoid it. The humidity and dampness can cause erratic electrical behavior. If you get it dried it they can go back to functioning normally with a thorough dry out. Or of course it could be damaged, you never know. If it's that saturated it's probably the sunroof. Could be a windshield leak through the gasket. Check very closely around the sunroof and windshield perimeter, search every inch looking for dampness. There's no wetness on the center console, around the shifter, on the seat, on the front dash below the windshield? Go to a spray car wash and sit inside while someone blasts the sprayer around the sunroof and windshield - where's it coming in?

That's awesome, sounds like a fun machine to drive at least for a bit!

I'm not talking about the starter, I meant to say "igition cylinder" not ignition solenoid. I'm talking about inside the vehicle. Look up under the steering wheel. Find where the wires are soldered onto the back of the ignition cylinder. There's a tiny phillips head screw there. Tighten it. It comes loose and causes the board the wires are soldered on to walk back away and reduce contact with the switch. I can't recall if the bottom steering column cover needs to come off and I'm at work right now so I can't go look at mine, but if it does be very careful. They have long threaded rods you can see that readily break and the covers themselves break. They aren't available from Subaru and are hard to find because everyone needs them.

Actually forget all of this for a moment - it just popped into my head, XT6's have a little tiny phillips head screw on the back of the ignition that gets loose over time. Find the 4 wire (i think) black electrical connector for the ignition solenoid. Follow the wires all the way back to where they're soldered onto the back of the ignition. A few millimeters away from the wires you'll see a tiny phillips head screw - tighten it. It's been awhile since i've done one, you might need a right angle screw driver. There's a very high chance it's loose and limiting contact. Once you check this screw then go back to the relay.

All the pictures are gone but some of the text may be helpful.