idosubaru

Have you checked the condition of the pads, slides and calipers? Does the ABS light work? With the ABS disconnected everything works perfectly? Usually you just read the codes and it'll tell you where to look or start looking - but you're saying the ABS light works but never illuminates?

Stop I'm or email or call online parts dealsrt and ask them to look it up by VIN number. Look up pics or in auto parts store or in Subaru dealer andncompare the twonpads and note the differences. Replacing rotors is pointless. The rears routinely last the life of the vehicle, like literally 300,000 miles without blinking. Fronts don't need replcing until they vibrate while braking. That shouldn't happen if your slides and clips are well maintained. Replacing clips and slide grease is far more preventative than replacing rotors. That's one area, at least with Subarus, where what people typically do and reality make absolutely no sense at all. As long as your current brakes lock up the wheels and activate ABS then bigger brakes aren't going to offer any improvement except aesthetics , or if you're racing.

If you swap the entire engine and body side wiring and ECU, of course. Bolts right in and to the trans. If you mean an easy swap then not so much. you have a few options to cobble it together and plan on a few things not being obvious or immediately predictable and answerable.

Google it surely someone has messed with those? EJ limited slips can often be warn out and function like open diffs. I wouldn't put much effort if it's a pain. get JDM axles? Or see if another rear axle is the same like H6 or turbo USDM rear diffs? What do the axles engage inside the diff - the lsd chunk? Or is there a part between the axle and lsd chunk?

+1 to what he said. I've swapped quickly enough it needed nothing more than a quick push it get air out of just that one caliper. I've swapped a fluid pre-filled caliper without needing to bleed the entire system before. Vice grips can be used on the flexible brake hoses with an old timing belt or something as a cushioning expanding sacrificial spacer as well to clamp them shut. But I realize most people would freak at that. If you do just the passengers side, opposite of the MC, you can get the caliper so high or higher than the MC that the feet of head (in mechanical engineering fluids terms) is much reduced or zero, the fluid doesn't come out (much). But Ive got a high lift jack and I'm not afraid to use it for sone situations like this.

I assumed without saying anything that it was miscounted and was a turbo instead of non turbo axle. I think I have two ea82 axles but shipping probably makes it worthless.

I mentioned that in #2 of my verbose reply but I was assuming vibration and leaky seal are related. But they very well may not be. So that axle probably should be checked more than I originally thought. Maybe a bad enough axle could even pop the stub circlip out of the trans. When they get really bad I wonder if it's the shaft or cup that are vibrating or I guess both?

Checking oil for debris would be a great first step verification as he said. How positive are you it's the diff? 1. How about the stubby shaft, if they pop out of the trans the car will drive with massive clobbering around. I've seen that before. Usually right after some work that involved moving pulling or working around the axle. 2. Bad Inner axle joints will thump and vibrate the entire car so bad you can't see out the rear view mirror. I wouldn't think they would cause play in the axle stub shaft and damage the seal though so this seems unlikely. But good to verify. I don't have a spare H6 trans. 2.5's have a different gear ratio. 4.44 rather than 4.11. But get a 4.44 rear diff to match and you might be able to use it. Probably interchangeable. The VDCs look like every other 4EAT I've disassembled, though that doesn't mean a whole lot. the VTD and 4EAT MPT rear drives are interchangeable even though they're vastly different. People install H6 VTDs into H4 transmissions for the VTD functionality. For that matter - people swap the VTD into MPT (2.5) transmissions. I wonder if you could just get a 2.5 transmission and bolt the rear VTD stuff to it (easy) and be good to go? No one probably knows the answer to that as frankensteining transmissions isn't common. Could check wiring diagram pin outs, connectors, and solenoids. If they're similar that's a great sign. I'd start by checking the main wiring harness connectors to see if they're the same.

Those 00-04 Outback blower motors are absolutely stupid for this reason. You basically have to break something to remove them. I feel your pain. What symptoms did you have that the relay fixed? Clicking and buzzing all speak to dead battery or poor connections. Have you absolutely verified it's seeing solid voltage? I would start simple and look at any and every wire harness you worked around. Look for any adjacent connectors or sharp turning points.

There's a square tool sold at auto parts stores. You can make a tool and even turn them in with pliers and wrenches but it's slow going and grueling if you're not accustomed to it or ready for It. Rear drums I'm unsure. You can simply reset caliper pistons as he said so I assume maybe you can do that with drum cylinders too. If it comes out it's gotta go back in that way too. Ideally you'd clean it all up first but obviously it's nicer to not open it up if possible.

For EA82 interchangeability theres only turbo and nonturbo axles. The only difference being the inner joint spline count.

Mechanics don't price shop so that is high but I wouldn't necessarily assume they're being unfair either. Www.car-part.com mentioned above. eBay has engines and JDM engines as well. I haven't priced many this new but I'd think you could get it done for $2,500. $1500-$2,000 engine and $500 install. Add $150-350 and he should be able to install a new timing belt kit for you and you're good for 100,000 miles.

They fail so rarely it's hardly worth it. Get a used shaft for cheap www.car-part.com or sometimes eBay but they're usually expensive on eBay. I've only done it on 1980s Subarus where used shafts are hard to come by. Over time the few I've had don't feel as smooth as I'd like anyway - maybe it doesn't matter, I've never had a Rockford Subaru replaced unjoint fail but I'd rather it feel smooth like it's supposed to. If we could compare 100,000 miles each on 1000 units of low mileage used shafts to staked in replacements installed at home, I would guess the used shafts have a higher success rate. They routinely see 200,000 and 300,000 miles. The only faikure I've personally seen is in a 1988 and I've seen tons of 200,000+ Subarus. I highly doubt you'll find anyone that's done it to a vehicle that new. Subaru driveshaft faikure is so uncommon and most newer vehicle owners don't work in their own cars. I've barely maybe heard of anyone doing it even to any 2000 and up era vehicles.

ATF hoses around dipstick are likely leaking. The leak appears to be hitting the exhaust in front of the trans pan so the pan probably is not the cause of the leak. (Looks like it has been resealed it seems). Right above that exhaust and front inner axle joint that looks wet (assuming it's ATF) - there are the transmission cooler lines. There are two rubber hoses attaching right around the dipstick area that supply and return ATF from the AT to the trans cooler then back to the AT. One is probably leaking and dripping on the exhaust. Keep in mind the *source* of the leak matters, rather than where it ends up. So when you look at that picture your first thought should be "what's above that and dripping down?". See if you can get picture of the area above that. Through the engine bay, underneath, or both hood chance that's a simple and easy hose leak. no.

Can easily make a make-shift funnel out of cereal boxes or cardboard. Flatten and roll them at an angle into a funnel shape. 1. Never run a vehicle low on oil or ATF, check levels immediately anytime there are hits of issues. It is guaranteed high dollar failure of the trans or engine if it gets too low. There's no maybe or lucky with no oil. 2. Were those pictures taken after you tried dumping fluid all over the trans? The picture posted is where it would all end up from trying to dump it in the fill tube so it might not be the source of the leak. Otherwise this is really simple - find the source of the leak. Might need to drive it some or clean it off so the spillage doesn't make it hard to find ATF.

Subaru ABS sensor issues aren't common and they routinely last the life of the vehicle, having more than one fail is strange. I have seen them degraded and warn down significantly - either due to the elements (winter, salt, treatments) or road debris, I'm not sure. I would guess it's due to rocks or salt/chemicals.

clean out the entire knuckle/wheel/axle area and make sure it's not due to debris between the sensor and reluctor ring. debris on the ABS sensor can cause issues. check code again and make sure the correct one was replaced. aftermarket wheel bearings cause ABS sensor issues ocassionally - has the wheel bearing on that wheel ever been replaced? maybe the new sensor is bad - check it's resistance or continuity per the FSM.

awesome. well done. is your plan to replace it while it's still worth a considerable amount or keep running it?

All my references to headgaskets are applicable to the nonturbo EJ25 engines. Turbo engines dont have those issues. Turbos need excellent oil maintenance and the blocks and turbos are expensive to replace if they go boom.

"Supposed to be OEM" based on research, parts store commentary, or a label on the box? OE and OES are tricky marketing ploys to sound like OEM?

Largely personal preference. If you're from rust prone areas see if you can arrange a purchase from non rust states. That's saved me hours and hours of labor and parts costs. Phase II engines 2000+ (and 99 Impreza/Forester) have external headgasket leaking issues. 00-04 usually coolant but can leak oil, 05+ usually oil but can do coolant. They're external and benign as long as you keep adding fluid. Replacement gaskets or outliers can have internal leaks and overheat. That's a good issue to understand before buying. The most likely to end up on lots, for sale, traded in, are those with issues or a history. At one lot when I was helping a friend shop, 7 out of 9 Subarus of this era had leaking headgaskets. I prefer buying from an owner as you can sift a lot more information, buy a much better car and improve statistics sunstantially. But not everyone can pull that off well.

no problems, it'll bolt right up. you'll have 4 fasteners instead of 8, but those 4 line up just fine. it basically attaches like a 1998 and earlier engine, rather than a 1999, no big deal. the main issue is that you're bolting Phase II heads to a Phase I block and need to be careful of the holes lining up properly. it's been like 10 years since i've done it so i don't recall specifics. you would want to ask which headgasket to use. maybe it's a non issue in this case or with EJ22's, but i'm uncertain.

the only symptom that's definitive here is a smell of coolant. this generally means you need to find the leak. if the leak is so small that you can't find it and the system isn't loosing any appreciable amount of coolant - then you're not likely to find it without very close inspection. try inspecting while it's cold and after it's been running. if the engine isn't overheating then the coolant temps/flow aren't problematic. maybe the thermostat wasn't open, thereby limiting coolant flow. computer doesn't need "reset". the plugs aren't likely to fix a P0420 or any oxygen sensor/catalytic converter code. if they did it would be nearly immediate - like within a few minutes the catalyst efficiency would normalize. if the leak is so small that you can't find it and the system isn't loosing any appreciable amount of coolant - then you're not likely to find it without very close inspection. try inspecting while it's cold and after it's been running.

I'm not that familiar with turbo's but in general i'd be surprised if rod knock went away at higher RPM's, are you saying that's what's happening?

I have no idea how badly this thing was overheated or run low on fluid or if it was at all. So the following is by no means a diagnosis for this specific engine so much as a general answer to your question whether overheating affects things. More than likely yours incurred a minor event and no big deal. But we literally know nothing quantitatively significant to say anything meaningful either. Heat is orders of magnitude more significant than all the benign oil change questions people obsess over. So let's be clear. Overheating is atrocious for mechanical systems, it is the main contributor of heat, wear, degradation and catastrophic failures. Never overheat a Subaru engine short block component and they're nearly guaranteed to make 300,000 miles. Running low on fluid essentially results in localized overheating. initial compromising events are easily absorbed and if they cause issue many of them are initially asptomatic but lead to issue later due to materials fatiguing instigated during the compromising event. The only diagnosis option you might have this early on is a UOA and ATF analysis from a place like black stone labs. It's at least cheap and easy if you're game and may give you piece of mind.