idosubaru

Ill try a 2x4 or digging bar and some leverage. I used Yield, a high quality penetrant some shops and machinists use Hitting the nut will compress and damage the threads, hitting the threads will compress and mushroom those. Seen that lots of times, this one is definitely that tight. It's not budging with a very heavy steel mallet on the rod next to the knuckle.

XT6, no rust Sprayed with YIELD and wailed on with a few pound (large) steel mallet. Any chance of getting this thing off without heat? I'll throw a hefty digging bar at it next. Maybe illl break the torch out but if I do that it'll singe the tie rod boot making saving the tie rod pointless anyway and I could just unthread it from the inner tie rod in the first place.

That's an ambiguous term for general communication. It doesn't mean anything on its own. If it's leaking you've got the easiest problem to have, it's presenting immediate symptoms. Someone needs to simply look at it and find it, defining that word will lead nowhere. If I had to guess I'd say it's probably simply the rubber hoses. $5 in parts and you're done. Start with the two hoses under the MC (brake fluid reservoir). About 6" below that are two runner hoses clamped to metal lines attached and running to the transmission. The pan should also be inspected, common leak point as well. Rear seal at back of trans can leak Torque convert would leak between engine and trans case. The wiring harness can leak where it passes through the case.

It's certainly nothing ominous at all. Relax. The car will run indefinitely, without any issues, regardless of the VDC system. If you want the VDC functional then, no, the VDC OFF light should not be on. But it's not likely to be a big deal or expensive. Is the ABS light on? Any check engine light? Have the OBDII codes read for free at an advance auto parts or other national chain that does it for free and let us know what it gives. The VDC light can be checked for a code as well. Ground the appropriate pin and it flashes the code for you, takes 15 minutes. Dealer would charge $100 roughly to diagnose, find a mechanic , preferably Subaru famiiiar and they can pull it in no time. Or google it and you can simply do it yourself if you can stick a pin in a hole and count flashing lights. No tools required.

Doesn't exist. As said foresters came much later yes and no. Need correct year or model and auto or manual. options depend if that's a manual or auto. Manual - yes they probably can be swapped will have final drive ratio differences and driveshaft length differences can be worked around. If it's an auto then no it won't work, not at least in normal terms most people would find acceptable.

Auto or manual? No such vehicle as a 1990 forester.

ahhh so there's a reason for that!

Google those codes and that will share what they are. 0130 is front O2 sensor I think that seems an obvious starting point. Rear O2 is benign on pre-2005 vehicles and can be ignored for the moment. Look at the other codes first.

It depends on driving conditions. Easy driving the ej22 should be fine and not much difference. In some cases it could do better. But as with most things in life it's not black and white. Big hills big tires heavy car heavy loads automatic can bog the smaller engine and lower gas mileage. I dropped an EJ18 into an automatic legacy. In flatland trips I'd get close to 35 in an automatic, wouldnt get that with an EJ25. unfortunately I live in the mountains and it would only get low 20's around here, the grades killed it. It was worse with larger tires, I reduced size and that helped some. That was exaggerated of course due to the EJ18 but an EJ22 may see similar depending on demands.

They're as he said 14 mm head M10x1.25 pitch thread. I think the lower starter nut should be 14mm and same thread as well. To some extent the head size can vary. You can get the correct size fastener thread of M10x1.25 pitch but have different head sizes - 14mm is oem or aftermarket bolts are commonly a little larger head size than the OEM. But I prefer Subaru fasteners for their grade and maintaining consistency if possible. Often non OEM bolts are an off size like 13mm or 15mm, sizes found nowhere else on the vehicle. That's what I mean by consistency. I just removed a bolt from a 2006 yesterday. Nominally it's a 12mm bolt M8x1.25, but it had been previously replaced and was still an M8 thread but the 12mm socket was too small. That's common with replacement non OEM bolts. The lower studs and nuts are the same thread as well.

Exactly! My last three XT6's (1988 and 1989's) come from CA, Texas and the south. That's on purpose. Original exhausts and every bolt comes off easy. It's crazy.

It's probably only ball joints and maybe axle shaft splines I really care about. Since those can be rust belt monsters. Maybe a few 10mm bolts that always shear off - rad fan, washer tank, fender and other gold down bolts that get a little rust and sheer off all the time. I don't even know how many times I've seen that happen. They shear off all the time. But they're simple to work around so not a big deal particularly if it's my car I don't care about a missing bolt or four.

Right. It's more the sticking together id rather not have than the drying up. Ball joints (I assume that's steel on steel?) and rotors on hubs have stuck good after a short amount of time. Is this a rust belt thing or happens elsewhere too? Granted it's only been like 3 times (which is not not much, I work on far more than just my own), but rust being what it is and that seeming abnormal and I just ran out of antiseize, wanted to ask.

Glad it worked out. Service managers sometimes aren't mechanically inclined at all. They're intended to communicate and/or sell. And then there's the simple 3rd party communication middle man inefficiency as well.

You can also hop a curb with one wheel or let the front of the car hang over a side walk to easily get room to get under and take a pic....and get all wet while you're at it. Lol

Great, thanks I have some marine grade sealants and greases for my boat, i'll see if I have anything like this as well. You've used the marine grade on cars? I'll try marine grade on ball joints and other problem areas and stick with permatex standard stuff for simpler things.

I don't know of any subaru forum member that runs one of these engines or talks about it at least. I visited the shop, neat place and the owner went out of his way for me which was shocking considering he doesn't know me nor was i buying anything. Seemed like a nice operation and team when I was there.

I recall a 2003 ball joint specifically that was stuck and corroded after only a year or three. it came out but i've been surprised a couple other times too so i thought i'd ask since it's time to buy a new jar. maybe it's just more of an issue with existing rust/scaling/exposure than the antiseize.

I've pulled some parts previously covered with the standard parts store silver can of Permatex anti-seize and have seen it dried up and not overly impressive. Normally it's fine and i've never had an issue exactly but it seems worth asking? What are you guys using that you think is better than Permatex?

Copy, I see. So with light duty driving it's not going to matter - the brakes easily lock and jam the car in place. In a high speed, steep grade/momentum situation with emergency braking maybe bigger ones grab quicker? Some clear daily driver numbers would be nice to see when bumping up the rotor size.

gotcha - but the stock brakes lock up the wheels and activate ABS, bigger brakes can't "lock them up more" on an average daily driver right?

Copy that.

The swap wiring needs thoroughly checked. Verify proper wiring, sounds like some may be wrong. Verify connections. Did this car sit for awhile before you got it? May have done rodent damaged wiring. A separated crank pulley will cause low charging as well.

Isn't there one combination of head/block where the headgasket holes aren't there or need modified?

Have you checked the condition of the pads, slides and calipers? Does the ABS light work? With the ABS disconnected everything works perfectly? Usually you just read the codes and it'll tell you where to look or start looking - but you're saying the ABS light works but never illuminates?