idosubaru

my understanding is the engine runs without the O2 when it's first started until the engine is warmed up. once it reaches a certain temperature then it uses the O2 sensor for feedback and adjusting air-fuel ratio. ; without the O2 sensor you're just stuck in that "pre-warm up" mode and probably running rich. given you have a fuel injected 93 loyale yeah I think you would be better off with one. though i've definitely driven around with oxygen sensors before and it's not a problem as a makeshift or temporary situaion, i'm not sure what long term would look like. in later lie 1995-2004 engines with a rear Oxygen sensor, those aren't used by the ECU and can be compeltely removed without any issues at all because the ECU doesn't even use them. they're only used to trigger a CEL, not for drivability. so you can ignore those, never replace them, remove them, and it doesn't matter for drivability. but that's different than yours - it's actually used for the air-fuel ratio.

i'd get a used one too but yeah that low price is nutso.

Well how did it run, you probably already took it for a spin right? ! In general yes the ECU uses that to adjust the air fuel ratio. Without it it'll presumably run rich and get poor mileage. I'm not sure if this actually would happen in this case but too much fuel washes the oil off the cylilnder walls, dilutes the oil. But you may also need to verify which engine/vehicle you're talking about.

that's hysterical..... sorry it's a pain....but that's nuts how it would rack up miles like that. The clusters are super easy to swap in a few minutes. a few screws for plastic trim and they have like 4 screws to remove the cluster. I feel like some you only need a Phillips head screwdriver, no sockets at all. The car runs and drives without the cluster so if something happens you'll still have a perfectly drivable car. It's just weird driving without seeing anything and a little risky if you're not 100% confident in the cooking system/temperature. Is it possible for the sensor to cause this? I would guess cluster too but just checking. Www.car-part.com for cheap clusters and match your mileage.

Do you mean vibrating while driving at 60mph or while.pushing the brakes at 60mph? Did you spray the rotor surface with on blaster? If it's while driving then wheel ligs weren't tight, snow packed inside wheel, wheel needs balanced.... If brake related Need to find the failure: 1. Seizing caliper pins 2. Bent or rust or debris/dust build up on brake caliper clips 3. Internally collapsing brake hose (rare on Subarus)

EA81 right? Have you searched im pretty sure people have covered this a great deal.

I've rebuilt a lot of wrecks and totaled salvage Subarus, I've even had a totaled Subaru I rebuilt get totaled a second time (I rebuilt it again!) at 75 mph spinning out on the interstate into a guardrail (not by me). It showed what I already knew - the first accident added no significant weakness to the vehicle. My point is..... That picture is seriously absolutely nothing. Even if it's a minor damage somewhere I can guarantee that car has absolutely no cause for concern. Wether you're comfortable with it or not is another thing but mechanically and structurally it's fine.

Got it thanks brat man. Is that 04 change over true of all models, even VTDs? I thought I had seen 98's with spin ons but since they rusted away years ago up here and I never mess with them anymore, must be VIN manufacturer dates or bad memory.

Outbacks are also PhaseII and 4.44 final drive 00-02 and 03-04. Sometime around 03-04 the polarity of the duty C solenoid changed though not sure if that's just outbacks or 4 or 6 cylinders or what. But you can work around that with minor wiring. CNY_Dave knows more about that.

You can check the connectors as well to verify if there's any question over years since you're right on the cusp - they're either the same or they are not. 98 GT trans would work in a 98 forester. Is spin on filter and 8 bolt bellhousing always indicative of Phase II only or do some late 98s have that as well?

Glad you're okay. Hopefully the beam support underneath took all the bending damage and you're good to go with a new bumper assembly. Verify hatch opens and closes and seals. By the looks of it Id replace the bumper assembly and drive it another 100,000 miles without thinking. But a 40mph relative hit is massive, I've seen crumpled rear quarters at less (and currently have an OBW in my drive way that was totaled like that)

Check for lightly dragging brakes. They run on a predetermined slightly rich mixture at first start up by design don't they? them once it's warmed up it'll use O2 sensor data to adjust air fuel ratio. Sounds like normal gas mileage. Though 20's is a huge range - 29 is nearly 50% more than 20. That's like saying "I weigh 150-225 pounds".... If you're not warming up the car while you scrape windows and driving perfectly flat land on an idealistic commute with summer blend gas then you aren't likely to get 30+.

I mentioned them because of you, was hoping you'd chime in! I'm going to try them and Michelin (different vehicles) for my next set.

Read online reviews and focus on what you want. I look at snow and rain performance. Master craft is a popular inexpensive tire. In the future I'll be looking at Michelin and better mileage as i usually money towards good snow tires and I'm not getting much mileage on cheaper all seasons. General Altimax rt43 are common inexpensive tires. I've had a few side wall bubbles on them but my roads are probably some of the worst of anyone that's going to reply. Other than that they're decent options.

Using the wrong crank mark is common problem.

Neat feeling engine all apart then all those parts are moving and running! Hydraulic clutches can be annoying to bleed.

Nice work. Ohio rust sucks. Too bad you can't grab a nice rust free southerner and put all the effort into that. I've repaired trans pans and sokenoids too. It's known in Subaru world you just didn't ask or the right people didn't see. Good job that handshake is nuts.

100% not a thermostat. Waste of time to replace that just for this issue alone. That engine requires Subaru Coolant Conditioner. That should be added if it's never been done before or unknown. You were low on coolant. The radiator was low due to: A. A leak somewhere. Look for leaks and keep it topped off. Or B. It's pushing coolant from radiator to overflow then overheating. Thats probably headgaskets but Check/replace simple things like radiator cap Keep an eye on: 1. Radiator level 2. Overflow level - is it filling up? 3. For spots under the car. Park over cardboard if you can. Was the overflow really full/too high when you checked it? Have/when we're headgaskets replaced?

Granted I've done a bunch and can't give a clear torque value except "3 foot pipe over the socket wrench and crank it on" - but otherwise there's no hope needed, it's easy to get locktite and a key to work when they aren't even needed to begin with. 3 foot pipe - crank it on, it's not coming off. Steel crank and bolt, you're not going to strip it unless you try. Even without a key, they won't come off. I've also filed down and repaired cranks before, but if it's my car it's not worth the time or much worry.

if there's no compelling reason let it go. A cheap car is seldom cheap without reason. Sub $1,000 Subarus are rarely gems but not impossible to find either. What's your end goal? More cars work or maintenance, or flip it or help someone or different car - buy it Reliability longevity and practical finances - leave it.

I thought case had to be split to replace the bearings...?

Great glad you found it. Smart. You just saved hours and annoyance!

I'm sure you've seen it but just in case cars101.com is great. USMB is by far the most practical and technically versed for Subarus IMO. It's about the only forum not confounded by "what oil is best" type questions and answers. those can be ignored but most adults can only stand sitting in 3rd grade so long. I sent you a PM check it out.

Run 12 volts right to starter next time it does it or measure voltages atvstarter to test and confirm. Starters alternators and fuel pumps I don't like getting aftermarket. Common issues. Meaning "more common than I want on a part that leaves you stranded if it fails."

Resurface can be unfortunately tricky - should be $70 - $150 for both heads depending on your area. That said here is how it works. Machine shop policy: "We won't warranty the heads without a full check, clean, valve job, presssre test = $700". For DIY it's no big deal, you just decline the warranty because it's not needed, those heads never fail in that way so it's like having a warranty on something that never fails , it's pointless like the lug nut - it'll never randomly fail. I've done it a zillion times, it's normal and common. Like denying the additional 3 year warranty on something benign at a store check out line. You pay $150 and you're done. Since you're at the mercy of the shop one of two things will happen: A. They Play nice and just get the resurface because that's what customer wants and if they have any sense they know it's wise due to surface finish (ra, google it), and offers them a better end product and service. It's a win-win no brainer. B. Not play nice. They just regurgitate the machine shop and give you the option of $700 or not at all. This may be more likely if these are in play: 1. Worried about down time, turn around, profit 2. Some professionals don't like being asked or given suggestions how to do something outside their normal protocols. "Who the $@+^| he think he is, I do 10 headgaskets a week" mentality. 3. They don't like customer or service opportunity. You could call and find out what shop Subaru uses - they'll have one shop they send heads to. I've done it, to know who locally is familiar with Subaru heads and such. Then just call the machine shop yourself and ask if you can just get a resurface or if Subaru ever allows that or if "warranty" is ever a deal breaker for Subaru.