idosubaru

www.car-part.com for matching transmissions. i'm sure you know the side front differential seals are directional if you end up replacing those. Subaru coolant conditioner is specifically for external Phase II headgasket leaks. I'd try it on an older Phase I engine if it had external headgasket leaks. For an internal leak, i don't think there's many data points to make any judgement calls on it, but most people guess it's not likely to be a great long term repair. those Phase I EJ22 headgaskets are the easiest subaru headgaskets to do - they're actually quite simple since all the head bolts are external. can easily be done with the engine in the vehicle. resurface heads and use subaru gaskets. i'd be less worried about that than the trans replacement, that's annoying. that being said - the engine and transmission can be pulled together as one lump through the engine bay if you have a lift and inclination to do it all at once.

This is an XT6 but it's the same as xt's and probably not terribly different from EA82. How does the glass/mirror part come off? I don't see external fasteners. There's a few behind the glass but a straight screwdriver won't access them.

That doesn't happen - it is caused. The bolt wasn't installed tight enough. But actually it doesn't really matter. Just tighten the crank pulley tight and be done with it. If it sits crooked just file the crank snout so the pulley sits flush. All you need to do is bolt the crank pulley in place and tighten it really tight. I use a two or three foot pipe over the socket and have at it. * you do not need a key at all. Some people repair and install a key but they're pointless and unecessary. If it's tight enough it will it come off. I don't use a torque wrench for that but I'd guess I use more than called for. Steel crank so it's not gonna strip like aluminum. Done it tons of times and so have others. I can easily guarantee I'd fix it without issues.

Resurface the heads. With two overheats i'd call around and see if you can find someone to resurface the block. Replacing the head bolts is pointless and I'd consider it a bad thing because it's a false sense of security on an otherwise benign part. They are clean so you get clean threads and accurate torque, that requires cleaning the block hole threads as well and you can have the old bolts hot tanked at whatever shop resurfaces your heads. More than likely the engine was significantly overheated previously, the heads weren't resurfaced, or the block face wasn't very clean, or just a mistake was made along the way. The slightly offbeat symptoms (mixing, etc) are classic of headgaskets that have been previously replaced. I was even thinking that as i was reading, before i got to the part about the new headgaskets already being installed.

They can be a pain to get all the air out of. So far you haven't replaced or repaired anything? That would certainly be weird for a random symptomatic event, there is always causation, nothing is grey or ambiguous outside of quantum mechanics...

I see one mention of 2014? Is there a consensus on the oil burning issue being fixed by a certain year? PM sent LT.

It won't unlock it - will it lock the drivers door? Has that door ever had work done to it - new speakers installed, fender bender, window work...? Probably the mechanism inside the door is problematic or the actuator itself. You can pull the door card and see what's going on inside. For reference you can pull both door cards (drivers and passengers side) to compare what one is doing that the other isn't doing. Online Subaru parts vendors or google or opposedforces website have exploded view diagrams so you can get a general idea what's going on. This is an 08 but it's not likely to be much different: http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUBARU-OEM-08-14-Tribeca-Front-Door-Lock-Actuator-Motor-61100XA01A9E-/162320244690?fits=Make%3ASubaru%7CModel%3ATribeca&hash=item25cb0a5fd2:g:6r0AAOSwaB5XpvGg&vxp=mtr The bad news is this doesn't happen very often on Subarus so I'm not sure how fortunate you'll be finding specific information or someone that's repaired this before. The good news is...this rarely happens! Will it lock the drivers door?

You're fine on the ECU, it'll handle that flow no problem. EJ25's plug and play just fine into EJ18 equipped vehicles, my EJ25 equipped legacy ran an EJ18 just fine with great gas mileage so it adjusted fine, people install forced induction with a few PSI on stock controllers. I'd be surprised if Delta couldn't do something. in the US Phase I stuff is such that you have to swap the intake manifold to bolt EJ22 heads to an EJ25 - they are very different heads with different bolt patters for the intake manifold. so Phase I swaps like that are running the EJ22 stuff. i wouldn't worry about intake flow at all personally, other than generally speaking, but specific to this swap it's going to be negliigible.

Perfect fit. All done. Thanks.

You sir are the bomb. Love to be done with it tonight. Thanks.

I tapped the pin out of a front axle and it magically disappeared. Knocked one out of the parts car and it too disappeared. Good grief that was amazing. Can I use one of the rear pins?

Just drive a week and see what happens.

I doubt it, but an old cap can probably do things I'm not aware of. pull the cap and look at the base seal condition and clean it up if it looks all crusted up. you can google radiator subaru cap failure and see if someone has the symptoms oyu're describing. it's often hard to find someone who can absoulutely verify it was a failed radiator cap and not some other issue that presented a month after they said it was "fixed" with a new radiator cap (that happens often). 4 bolt would be phase I and 98 just like you said. - if it was manufactured in 1998 (stamped on the VIN plate) then it's actually a 1999 vehicle and Phase II. but honestly that matters not here, you have symptoms presenting and you probably know the year of your vehicle. ocassionally people say the build date as the year of the vehicle which confuses things but with symptoms it hardly matters now.

Compression tests are usually pointless but you can try, sometimes they show something. Testing for hydrocarbons in the coolant is more definitive. The high end electronic testers that some shops have being more accurate than the auto parts store liquid kits, but those can work too. Some people like pressurizing the cooling system I think.

Phase I EJ22's can fail too sometimes, particular if they've been overheated before. A bad radiator and you're likely not the first owner makes it hard to verify history. You want to positively burp the system, verify absolutley that there are no leaks, and replace the radiator cap. They can take forever to fill - if yours has the bleeder screw on the top passengers side end of the radiator (they don't all have it), open that while you fill it. Sometimes they seemingly take forever to drink enough coolant, laboriously slow going in. Fill it - drive it - cool down - fill it - drive it - cool down. That'll get all the air out eventually. Is it positively a Phase I 1998 EJ22? Phase II EJ22's in 1999 are more notable for headgaskets. But the earlier ones can fail too sometimes, particular if they've been overheated before. A bad radiator and you're likely not the first owner makes it hard to verify history.

that's unfortunate they guessed battery and timing - both of those are unlikely for the conditions you describe. previous versions of that engine are easy - one 10mm (maybe 12mm) bolt and disconnect the electrical connector. here's an older EJ engine pic with it circles but same location: http://s304.photobucket.com/user/meatbawl/media/motorfront.jpg.html some more googling would get you more info/pics.

A google search of leaky wheels is dominated by alloy/aluminum wheel comments. On daily drivers I've only seen aluminum wheel leaks, and I pretty much see it every year, and it's really annoying. If I've seen a steel wheel leak I've forgotten about it. Maybe there's other factors, environmental, geography, age of vehicles, use, storage....but around here alloy wheels leak orders of magnitude more than steel. They don't look great but if you're in a wintry area that's wet and messy much of the winter they're going to be dirty most of the time anyway unless you wash your frequently.

As to the confusion over the various offerings, it is mind numbing the options: I look for a kit for just these: Timing belt replacement should include absolutely the belt, pulleys and tensioner. Next most important are the seals: reseal the oil pump, tigthen the backing plate screws, and replace the cam seals. I buy these from Subaru to guarantee higher quality materials, but you can find others that are just fine, it's just not worth my time for $6 seals. Water pump failure is so rare and won't cause any catastrophic issues that it's not absolutely necessary, but it's probably a good idea on a 20 year old vehicle. The AISIN pumps are what I go for and highly touted. Japanese and likely OEM supplier i think. you can google that brand to check. In some cases I've gotten larger kits but honestly I don't think it's worth the time usually or for most peopel doing one job. Get the best kit you can, Subaru (or high quality seals), and OEM supplier water pump all separate. Gates kits are commonly used for timing components. Isn't it waaay cheaper on Amazon, looks like $15 less: https://smile.amazon.com/Gates-TCK277-Timing-Belt-Component/dp/B000C2YDP4/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483962752&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=subaru+gates+timing+belt+kit+T+CK277

There is one alternative -the flanges are usually what rots first and the rest is fine - cut them out and weld in new pipe. Try an exhaust shop or mechanic willing to do exhaust repairs rather than replacements. A local shop charges $45 for the standard flange rust replacement and adds a little more if it's a bigger job. If you weld in a piece of pipe to replace the flange, you no longer have a removable flange...but honestly they're never removable in the rust belt anyway after a short period of time. I think it's said that heat and the chemicals expedite the corrosion process, seems chemically astute. So if you're in a heated garage/conditioned space - wash underneath more often, and do more rinses in the spring to make sure chemical saturated surfaces aren't baking in spring/summer heat.

i think the temp blend (temperature control hot/cold) is a cable and could have additional failure modes, but for the fan speed i think that's just the unit itself. just get a used one and swap it out. they're easy to replace and dirt cheap on ebay, find one close buy to expediate shipping www.car-part.com but yeah you could probably disassemble it and get it working again. if you leave the blend door to HOT and give the fan 12 volts you can have heat while you diassemble and play with it if that's your goal.

You just picked this car up and the previous owner wired the fan to come on with a switch and the typically unused parking light was an easy option? I've seen people make the fans come on with a switch far more often than a switch causing an unrelated system to work/not work. Of course if you've owned this car awhile and this just started then that's ruled out, looks like previous poster has seen some similar issues.

EJ25 is newer, more power, more available. All factors that can be equal, being equal, the Phase I EJ22 is more reliable and cheaper and easier to maintain. If you want long term inexpensive reliability then yes the EJ22 is superior. If you want performance and racing the EJ22 is inferior. But it's hard to make all things equal due to age.

Exactly what he said Leaks and monitor level in rad. If you can find the leak to verify that would be awesome.

knock sensors - replace sensor. $20 part on ebay ($100 at dealer/store), 30 minutes to install. So $100 - $200 total. evaporative - the canisters, lines, and valving needs inspected/replaced. depends who long the mechanic takes to figure it out - $50 - $300. P0420 - fix the other codes first and maybe you'll get lucky. technically you can completely ignore this code as it's benign, the computer doesn't even use that data point for drivability in that year. but if you have emissions to pass or don't like the light on then you need to fix it. $20 fix - install an extender as a work around. Otherwise most likely $500 to replace catalytic converter. A cheap converter can rust out in 2 years in your area if it's cheap and sees winter road treatments.

You need to walk away IMO. I'm not recommending these but just for illustration, these would be orders of magnitude better options to consier than what you're looking at. And there's plenty more out there. Keep looking on forums, autotrader, craiglists, dealers - expand your willingness to travel to get a great deal/car. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1995-Subaru-Legacy-L-Legacy-Wagon-AWD-/262794416714?forcerrptr=true&hash=item3d2fc4924a:g:xSkAAOSwmLlX-s6D&item=262794416714 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-Legacy-Outback-/162195881034?forcerrptr=true&hash=item25c3a0bc4a:g:cCAAAOSwFe5X0YQQ&item=162195881034 You do want to buy RIGHT NOW. If you're waiting til tax season like many other financially inept americans - you're going to pay more for less. it may even be too late - dealers know it's coming and are investing in towels to wipe up all the salesmens drool right now in anticipation. personally i'd try and wait til that season is over and dealers are clamoring for sales once again. You don't want to spend what little money you have on a car with lots of issues. If the truck is costing that much in repairs - then that probably means you're at the whims of a local shop/mechanic who isn't cheap or incredibly talented at top notch maintenance and resourcing of parts/services/older car maintenance approaches. In that price range look for a 1995-1998 legacy or impreza with a 2.2 engine. Base models are nearly worthless at this point in the northeast/rust belt but one oft he best vehicles Subaru ever built. Very reliable and inexpensive to maintain. To the car your mentinoed: The timing belt needs done - and all the pulleys tensioners as well. If it, or any of the pulleys/tensioner fail (which they do), you'll be looking at a large 4 digit valve job or engine replacement. It's an interference engine, at those miles you're rolling the dice. That's a $500 - $1,000 maintenance at a shop. It should be on the higher end because all the pulleys and seals should be replaced (and may take care of the oil issue) The oil blowing back could easily be a very expensive repair. Oil filter/plug - that's cheap and easy but unlikeyl, surely the mechanic would have noticed somethign tha easy. If it's valve covers - then $250 at a shop. If it's a seal or headgasket you're looking at $500...probably closer to $1,000 - $2,000. It is not the ECM, Subaru ECM failure is nearly unheard of anyway and those aren't the symptoms. Those are quarter million mile, age, rust belt symptoms. Although to answer you're questino they're plug and play and super easy to change and cheap to buy used ($25-$50)...but they're only cheap because they never fail and there's zero demand. www.car-part.com for the cheapest parts in the country.