idosubaru

Read reviews on tirerack. Michellin nearly everything they make is really good - but they're pricey. Shop reviews on tirerack, discount tire, and other online retailers and just google tire suggestions. Brakes - Get new pads and clean/regrease the slides with high quality grease like Sil-Glyde or better. OEM pads are excellent, any pad is going to "stop" about the same on a daily driver, higher end stuff will be less prone to premature wear, dirt, etc. The cheapest pads you can buy stop the car great but they're terribly dirty and i've seen them last less than a year (though I hvaen't seen them last that short of a time on Subarus). I prefer a higher end ceramic but there's a zillion good pads out there that are going to readily lock up your tires regardless of what brand/price/style they are, so you'll gain nearly nothing on pad choice.

Why are you using a "broker"? Just call the insurance company you want to deal with directly, there's no need for a 3rd party middle man unless you enjoy limited, preferentially driven, higher priced options. I'd start with 1 or 2 big name ones (Liberty Mutual, etc) and then look for maybe a regional provider that's popular locally. Erie insurance is a smaller provider with great rates that's common next door to you in PA. If you graduated from college check with the alumni association of your school and see if they have a partnership with an insurance company. they can offer (variables still dependent) massive discounts. Ask for quotes combining auto/home/business/boat/recreational vehicle insurance.

headgaskets leak at the bottom head to engine mating surface. check front to back on passengers and drivers side.

Subaru ECU's are not prone to fail, how did you diagnose the ECU? could it be wiring damage? corossion, rodents... 02 ECU's are absolutely plug and play, all day long. it doesn't care what ECU you plug in, as long as it's from an 00-04. i assume it's a 4 cylinder - in 00-04 they have two different style timing triggers so you need an ECU that's matched to the cam triggers. i think they are different between auto's and manuals, so make sure you get an ECU from an automatic transmission. alternately you can swap the crank sprocket and drivers side cam sprocket from the vehicle with the ECU as well and the automatic/manual doesn't matter any more. so basically the ECU and crank/drivers side cam sprockets have to be matched.

And as he said you can pull the rear driveshaft and run it in FWD. or pull the front axles and run it RWD. Lol!

When the TCU has a code it flashes the light 16 times at start up. That's what it's supposed to do, it doesn't stay lit like the check engine light. That's normal. There will be a stored code and it can not be accessed through the OBD port which was probably used with the snap on tool. Again that's normal. The FWD fuse will not work if the 4WD components are hosed - that's like expecting a light switch to work when the bulb itself has failed. - the duty c solenoid is the most common and often triggers the AT light. It is what controls FWD/4WD. Also common and normal. So this is all normal stuff. Check Duty c wires and see if it has continuity /proper resistance. Torque bind and fwd fuse not working is typical Duty c solenoid failure. Read code and test Duty c circuit to verify. The improper towing means it needs thoroughly inspected.

The timing belt is easy - can be swapped in an hour. Pulleys water pump cam seals and oil pump and cleaning water pump mating surface add time. Subaru water pump and gasket failure is rare so a leak is likely to be coming from somewhere else. It's pretty common to replace EJ water pumps at the second (200,000) timing belt change because they're robust. Crank pulley - gradually wiggle it back and forth if it's stuck. Work side to side 100 times if needed to walk it off. Leave lower passengers side timing pulley off until the belt is installed so belt goes on easier. If you're dealing with rust and the timing cover bolt capture nuts break - just use zip ties instead of bolts when reinstalling. Those are the only possible tricky parts.

Oil pump - only need the oil pump oring and crank seal and a tube of sealant: Pull oil pump (bunch of 10mm bolts) Tighten backing plate screws Replace crack seal (it installs in the pump) Install oring Use anaerobic or rtv sealant around edge Install and done. Easy.

They don't have an average mileage of failure. Some don't fail and others were failing under warranty twenty years ago. It's the rate of failure that's scary not the mileage. Which is probably even more disconcerting than just mileage! I wouldn't want an unknown 20,000 mile svx transmission. If the transmission is known good, no extant issues, from an honest seller, and the drain plug and filter look clean then it's likely to give more years of service with fresh fluid and low grade use behind a lower power engine like an EJ22. But riskier than a non-svx trans for sure. I've gotten EJ transmissions for $150 before but it's been nearly 10 years ago now and I'm in the rust belt where cars head to scrap far quicker. Www.car-part.com

Recheck everything. Check spark at every plug Check fuel pressure Check timing belt marks. If this happened after you did the work then it's almost certain it's something you did. Retrace every step.

Subaru online parts places are 20% cheaper than local. And welcome. I live in wv as well.

Are you sure the coolant and oil leaks aren't headgaskets? That engine is known to leak externally and was part of a recall and extended 100,000 mile warranty for that issue (though you'd be way past the time constraint for that warranty). It's usually coolant in that year but can be both or either. Subaru requires a coolant conditioner in it. It's $2.50 from Subaru. It will stop almost 100% of initially leaking factory jnstalled headgaskets on that engine. You should verify and change coolant/add conditioner immediately. If it's leaking oil they need replaced. They can be driven 50,000 miles and only get worse very very slowly. So a lot of people ignore it or wait for a convenient time to repair. The original gaskets will almost never fail catastrophically. Although doing timing belts and headgaskets together makes perfect sense. FSMs are readily available free all over the Internet digitally. Get one! Any 00-04 4 cylninder engine is the exact same timing belt parts and process. Gates kits were really popular, always use the original Subaru timing pulley bolts,not any that come in the kits. There's a recent discussion or two about verifying OEM parts as the kits tend to change suppliers. So yeah Subaru is about the only guaranteed parts if you don't want to research current info and discussions that are ever changing. Water pump Austin brand. Always use a Subaru water pump gasket and thermostat. They don't leak often but is relkace the cam seals and reseal the oil pump while you're doing this.

sometimes you can look up parts on subaru websites and it may give the size. here's forester: http://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru__/MOTOR-ASSEMBLY-REAR-WIPER/49299542/86510AG15B.html it says "M6" which would mean a 6x1.00 thread shaft for that nut. try the same with yours?

Complete timing kit Don't run it hot or out of coolant/oil. Synthetic oil only and frequent oil changes (particularly important with these turbo engines). Do that and they make a rather easy 200,000 miles. You'll have increased concerns with the turbo components as mentioned above - more leakage points, more oiling/coolant issues....just based on more parts, more heat, etc, like anything else. Use it more, faster, harder and it's going to incur more maintenance.

what he said - needs a new Duty C solenoid in the rear extension housing. can be done in the car without dropping the transmission...but you gotta deal with exhaust/heat shields which can be the biggest annoyance in rust areas. smooth out the wear marks in the transfer drum, and maybe consider new clutch plates or inspect them, though I'm not entirely sure how the're inspected.

oh great, yeah the yards usually get it right. they should be able to help you load it - i've had them roll their fork light right over my XT6 trunk before and drop engines and trans (or both one time) in my trunk. the transmission crossmember width is sometimes a bigger hang up than the bellhousing depending how you need to turn/orient the trans to get it in. i feel like i've had to remove them before but i can't recall what combination of trans or subaru i was putting it i. take some padding/straps if there's a chance the trunk is shallow and you can't close it. oh great, yeah the yards usually get it right.

All XT6 manual transmissions are 4WD. FWD XT6 transmissions are automatic. Make certain it's properly identified/labeled/not previously swapped, etc. If it's a craigslist special don't count on the seller being keenly familiar with XT, XT6 differences. An XT 4WD trans could have a different final drive ratio than the XT6 and older ones can be push button PT4WD instead of FT4WD. It *can* be lifted by one person but it's definitely not doable by some people and some situations are harder than others. It's easy to get it up to your knees, harder to get it up to your waste, trickier to get it up even further. It's like furniture - it's not only the weight but cumbersome and awkward in dimensions. If you can lay the front bell housing on the tail gate of a pick up truck and just slide it in - that's far easier than trying to lift it *up* and *over* into the trunk of a sedan or another XT6. getting one into a trunk by yourself I would not call easy, but i've done it.

if it's correlated to one cylinder and humidity/water then i'd definitely be combing over the ignition components. no other issues, check engine lights that might be pointing to something else? if it happened in another car then is it safe to say the hood scoop isn't the issue? or did you also swap hoods? my 1988 XT6 has no proper drainage for the hood scoop and no issues yet in the few months i've had it.

if it's just torque bind you don't even need to drop the transmission - verify the issue, replace the clutches, Duty C solenoid, or both. way easier than a transmission swap. what if the Duty C wire is broken (usually rodent damage) and a "new" transmission does the same thing? Any 1996-1998 legacy, forester, outback, Impreza with an EJ25 engine will work. EJ22 (and EG33's) transmissions plug and play and run perfectly too - they just have a different final drive ratio in the front diff (which is integrated in the transmission for Subarus). EJ25 = 4.44 final drive EJ22 = 4.11 final drive so if you swap the rear differential to match final drive ratios you can even use EJ22 automatic transmissions which means any 1996-1998 transmission. 1995's are the same engines, not sure about transmissions - they might work. 1999's are odd - electronically legacy/outback engines are identical to 1995-1998 models so they probably work. forester/impreza EJ25's and all EJ22's in 1999 are Phase II vehicles with different engine electronics, not sure if that carries over to the transmissions. if you find a 95 or 99 just google it - i know it's been discussed before.

what brand plugs/wires? what's the gas mileage - same as always or...?? need to read the codes and post exactly what they are. you mention cylinder 2 and 4 misfire but only indirectly. swap plugs and wires to the opposite side and see if the misfire moves. i understand you've already replaced them, but I would want to verify. check valve clearance. swap injectors to the other side checking timing marks/tensioner.

keep in mind that 2006's are different from 2002's. how old is the battery? i might be reading your description incorrectly but your description sounds like it's impossible to be anything except the battery or connectivity. the immobilizer/security system can not tell if power is coming from your battery or jumper cables or a power pack or a windmill. it either has enough voltage/amps to operate, or it does not. if it has "no power" but you can jump start it then: A. the battery is bad - maybe it has internal issues that allow it to test fine momentarily but under a heavy starting load it's DOA....? B. the battery post is dirty C. the terminal that connects to the battery is dirty D. the battery cable is dirty. test the battery, clean the posts, clean the terminals, clean the cable/terminal connection. a multimeter can be used to test voltage of the posts, terminal connectors, and at the starter/alternator/fuse box. I would start there and then look into the aftermarket FOB as a possible issue.

I wouldn't worry about it. how much extra did they charge for it? Though my guess is it's probably wrapped up in a "transmission service" so you can't tell? odd while so many people drive 100,000 and 200,000 miles without ever changing ATF and dealers add something on a 30k newer vehicle. that's funny. I plan on 300,000 miles and have absolutely no desire to even consider this product. I'd guess it's mostly marketing - they can charge more for it, adds a dependent perception (they're so good, know their stuff, customer is uninformed, could never figure this out on their own), and does have some minor benefit (with questionable, hard to quantify efficacy). maybe the shop owner or service manager got a nice weekend "conference"/vacation from the supplier or distributor...which they can then provide (charge more for) to the customer. that probably didn't happen here but it's fairly common in most business sectors.

clutch wear and condition. the turbo is the biggest concern more based on age than specific weakness. not many 30 year old turbo engines with such low price tags have avoided overheating or oil compromising situations. the better you feel about it not having many overheating or oiling issues in the past - the better. otherwise they're good engines with not many major issues. new timing kit, front end seals, valve cover gaskets and plugs/wires/cap/rotor/airfilter tune up and they were great candidates for a reliable and inexpensive 100,000 miles. they get TOD sometimes but that's benign - you can drive them indefinitely like that and it's generally solved by an oil pump reseal or replacement.

i'm sure you can google strut swaps too, that's commonly done.

buy this and install larger tires: http://www.sjrlift.com/index.php/catalog/lift-kits/0-2-lift-kit-2000-detail Scott is great and a member here. A bunch of us have his kits. use a tire size calculator and reference online what tires will clear your vehicle to gain an inch or so from tires. lots of tire size calculators online, for example: https://tiresize.com/calculator/