idosubaru

Thanks for the offer, you can hold off for my part anyway. I think i'll try to end up with a VDC trans, I'm not parting out the OB I have, I'd rather just sell it as-is.

Yeah the indicator is moving and the car comes out of and goes into actual Park just fine, so the mechanisms are all working.

google it, and i mean that for a reason, not trying to pull a standard "i can't tolerate noob response". it probably varies too wildly to say "this is what you should do." if it's a bearing failure that's different than a pinion gear failure which is different from a gear set or synchro's or a combination of things....how/why the bearing failed - defect, impact, driving conditions, localized overheating, poorly adjusted backlash or bearing preload, other failing components, running low on oil the first year the car was owned, someone previously dumping the wrong fluid into it by accident....there's just too many variables, failure modes to be very specific. which is why I would google it rather than rely on 3 anecdotal replies to what is not a common situation ("my front diff is failing, how can I still get it to survive, who has significant experience with this" type of question..). people have tried a few things and reported on it and it should be easy to find. i think they even call some mixtures "clocktails" so you can probably actually search for that term as a starting point. 1. change the gear oil for new oil and get the debris out of there 2. try a heavier weight synthetic 3. try a blend - a cocktail of oils/additives if they don't help you can always switch back, a flush of oil isn't going to hurt. i recall a person that has torn these trans apart before (pretty sure he posted on here and he's from Australia or NZ) suggesting various oil concoctions may compromise other internal components even if it may help, or seem to help, existing issues. so best to avoid that if you want to repair the current trans.

Well, that sounds problematic. How in the world did you figure that out!? Wonder if the front reluctors are interchangeable? People have installed the rear VTD in non-VTD 4EAT transmissions so I presume there's a work around if the rear VSS is an issue.

Great thanks - with that prior pan/solenoid smashing issue I wanted to make sure it couldn't be the solenoids. Fluid movement check - good call, i'll pull a hose. Prior to failure, for a couple months, the torque converter would chatter (i think that's what it was) when warming up, and it was throwing some solenoid codes. So I was already expecting issues, just wasn't sure if it was related to that pan smashing incident. Oh right, yeah park works fine and I can push the car so it's all working.

Here's my question - can the automatic transmission solenoids alone cause it to not go into any gear? This transmission had a smashed pan and solenoids which I repaired like 40,000 or something miles ago and it ran fine until recently. I replaced some of the solenoids and wiring, not all of it - so I'm wondering if there could have been another damaged solenoid/wiring I didn't notice that finally failed? 2002 VDC automatic. It won't go into any gear at all - it just sits there and idles perfectly with no change as I move the gear selector. Disconnecting the TCU changes nothing and I'm nearly positive it's not the linkage. Normally I'd just assume it's a torque converter failure - but with the prior solenoid damage and being uncertain how precisely they work I wanted to check.

Stop guessing, you're going to keep working and not fixing. if you asked before hand, i would have said the fuel filter isn't the issue. 1. read the check engine codes (even if the light isn't on in case there are pending codes) 2. is the check engine light on? 3. check the idle controller - they routinely get gummed up. sometimes cleaning them helps, otherwise install another good used one 4. have the spark plugs and wires ever been replaced? 5. describe the symptoms as closely as you can - does it always do it, does it run absolutely show room perfect besides idle or it has other quirks...is it in meticulous condition or has lots of problems?

when you take it apart you'll find a seized pulley or need to diagnose something else.

They may be less familiar with Subarus due to not being popular in GA, particularly older generation Subaru's. they were quite uncommon down there pre-2000. When I lived there, I'm probably forgetting someone, but I didn't know one person that owned a Subaru. He at least found the information and pointed you online, that's about all he could do even if he didnt' offer it with a box of chocolate covered pecans! (i love those!). EA81's arent' everywhere but www.car-part.com is sometimes a great resource for searching yards all over the country.

good find. looks like two huge harnesses in the pic and via part number, looks pretty clear. GGGAAAHHHH HAAAA!!!

Felpro, and all intake and thermostat gaskets I've seen are just thin cardboard, here's some pictures: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/78310-intake-gasket-failure-fixed-w-pic/ No dealer can acquire parts from a Brat? What do you mean? Did they not find a part number or not available? Here should be the part number: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/110442-subaru-part-numbers-for-gaskets-ea81/ Are EA81 and EA82 intake manifold gaskets the same - these listings don't say 1980-1984, either because they're the wrong part or they're just not referencing those? Subaru appears to have these: http://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru__/GASKET-INTAKE-MANIFOLD--3132----E140087-/49226518/14035AA150.html http://www.subarugenuineparts.com/oe-subaru/14035aa150 http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUBARU-14035AA150-GENUINE-OEM-MANIFOLD-GASKET-/331420499208 Just google "EA81 intake manifold gasket"....add "part number"....within a few seconds of trying you'll have what you need.

Well said - different ones could vary well be easier than others. To find a plug, or to swap harnesses. A sedan trunk I swapped harnesses I'd never waste my time on again. But surely some are easier than others. It's been 10 years ago but a 97 impreza wagon (OBS) hatch I swapped I'm nearly positive I found the connector and just plug and played the hatch. The rubber boot pulls back really easily insitu, would take almost no time to at least do a cursory check and see if you can easily find a connector first. HAHHAHAHA !!!!! it's rare I laugh at online comments but that did it... HAHHAHAHA

no big deal, there's a ton of fluid in that car. just top it off a little bit at a time, it doesn't take much to get it to come up the dipstick. i filled from from below the lowest mark (below cold) to a little above the lowest HOT mark last night and it was less than a quart.

Those suck, 10x better Subaru original FSM's are all over the internet for free. I've literally never used a Haynes manual in 20 years of owning Subaru's. internet, free FSM's, there's no need. Good point, but if done right it will hold and you'll only have the exact same OEM wire running through the movable section when you're done...so it'll be identical to every other Subaru on the road. Never had the ones I've done have repeat failures, I wouldn't worry about it. Keep the (quality) splices away from the non moving/hinged area - stuff them back into their respective bodies (roof/hatch). Use high quality new automotive grade wire. wire from newer Subaru parts would suffice - trunks, doors, etc.

not a fan of the plastic either, it is seemingly odd. though I've seen plenty of plastic parts crack too, but never on newer rad's. I'm not surprised an aftermarket part would fail twice, but i would equally be suspecting warn engine mounts or some other physical constraint is causing stress between the engine/radiator, fatiguing them over time.

The FSM may tell where the connector is. Just try and pull it out and find a connector. If it doesn't work just have a bunch of splicing supplies ready and cut and splice. The wires fail sometimes at the hinges and require that process as a repair anyway, I wouldnt bother trying to salvage the original wire if it requires pulling it all out the hatch. I did it once and it was a waste of time. I'll splice if I ever have to do it again. If you've got everything on hand it doesn't take long to splice.

Duty C, clutch pack, gasket. Ask for those items and they should be able to give you all the supporting parts. If it just started and you're AT light isn't flashing 16 times at start up often times changing the fluid and making sure your tires all match properly may alleviate the torque bind. Start there. And as a first step You could just swap the entire rear extension housing which doesn't require dripping the trans and have the rest of the transmission just in case for the future. Also if the FWD fuse works you could just install a switch to choose between FWD and "locked" 4WD with the flick of a switch. I install the switch in my 4EATs anyway so I can control when it's locked. A couple dollars for a DPDT switch and simple wiring and you're done and can lock that mojo in the snow.

Well glad you might have some other options. Good luck moving forward. I've repaired a bunch of wrecks and totaled salvage Subarus, it's generally cheap and easy if you can find someone willing to get it reasonable and road worthy which is hard. Most places quote showroom new type work which just isn't a good fit for low value and older vehicles. Pull the front and toss a used matching hood and bumper and fender on there and I've had "totaled" cars back on the road for $200. No big deal. If you don't overheat or run it out of oil those 96 EJ22's are about the easiest and cheapest 300,000 miles you can get. Of course it's got 20 years of unknown history but you can expect high mileages from those like clockwork. Absolutely awesome engines, one of the best practical Subarus available, Outback with that engine. But obviously I lean towards inexpensive, practical longevity so I'm a big fan, though I drive newer stuff only because I've got three kids and need the space and LATCH is so simple.

1996 manual trans get the EJ22, arguably the best engine Subaru has ever made. Awesome vehicle, desirable to a few purist folks as that is the only outback ever made (96 manual) with the coveted EJ22. 1996 automatic has the EJ25D which is the worst engine Subaru ever made. I don't think that's even close to arguable unless you hate carburetors or low powered engines from the 70s. Ominous headgasket issues and requires premium. Otherwise good engine - need full timing kit. Interference engine, valves usually bend in that engine if it's breaks. Look for torque bind. As to size - personal preference like height, back support and comfort are highly variable. He should test drive it a lot. Some people are tall and rave about a car and others will complain. I would think it's a little towards the small end for someone 6'5" but easily tolerable depending on the person. And I'm nowhere near that tall. I've seen other Subaru and height threads, you could google those. 1996-2004 legacy and outbacks are all roughly the same space constraints for comparing.

If you experience a binding sensation when making sharp turns on dry pavement then the fuse may have been installed to cover up an issue. But hopefully it was just a mistake or oversight.

Yes for outbacks and legacy. Not sure if imprezas and foresters followed suit the same year?

Depending on tools, ability, and if you have gorilla hands, you should be fine doing them insitu. It is constrained bending the gauge, depending what kind you have, to check but it's doable. My feeler gauges I just curve into tight spots. They incur some permanent waves from the process but that doesn't bother me. If you have to remove the lower 14mm engine a bit and jack the engine up two inches for clearance that only takes a matter of seconds. Don't overextend rad hoses. Removing the valve covers themselves helps. You could stick your hands down along the valve covers before you start to get a sense of how little room you're working with.

good grief!!! That's a beastly process! It's like heads and timing chains - that stuff is baked on there, it's not coming off easily. How likely is that condition on frequent dino oil changes and well maintained, lightly driven? If other areas show lack of carbon build up is it reasonable to assume an engine is less likely to have those issues?

Headgaskets, valve adjust, resurface and all timing components are what I would consider minimum. That's what I would require if I were repairing one but I'd suggest a few more items while I'm in there. Keep in mind that where GD lives that car is valued way higher than it is here. It could possibly sell for twice its value there. and for good reason, they're far less likely to be on the road in another 5-10 years here due to rust and snow. So you hesitate with good reason. Go with the Subaru Coolant Conditioner. Subaru requires it and that car was part of a 7yr/100,000 mile extended headgasket warranty. 8 years ago you could have gotten them replaced free. It is unbelievably common to go this route and if the directions are followed on a well maintained engine efficacy is solid. Few dealers resurface and none of the Subaru ones around here do. I've been to the machine shop that does the resurfacing for local dealers (including Subaru, if you ask them) and they throw heads on a belt sander last I was there. Which ends up with better end results depending who they have run it. I've posted ugly pictures of Subaru heads from that shop and GD should have some funny things to say about the method. Lol. I don't know of another machine shop so I just started doing it myself. Which you can easily do as well, it's surprisingly simple.

If it's coolant - just change the coolant and add Subaru's coolant conditioner, it's $2.50 a bottle and required for that engine. It stops most initial headgasket leaks on OEM factory installed headgaskets. Done right it's a pricey job as GD mentioned. Price varies wildly based on what all you have replaced and what brand parts you use. $1,200 - $1,500 is bare mininum for headgaskets only. (Unless you find some real slim charging off the grid type of place) $2,000 is getting into a quality job by an independent. $2,000 - $3,000 for a very thorough job/dealer. Did you call the Sube Shop? There's also a dealer in Bridgeport, maybe there would be some more favorable situation there?