idosubaru

It's going to require work no matter how you slice it. installing a belt and cranking is the easiest. you don't need to reinstall the cover or even the crank and accessory pulleys - use battery power or jump it off another car. easy. find someone with a used belt to borrow or post in the parts wanted section, someone might ship you one for next to nothing.

I've got all struts aired up by grounding each strut solenoid and manually adding air (carefully this time with goggles) When I get home we'll see if they hold air all day. The compressor doesn't seem to want to pump up the system at all on it's own. I hear air hissing out if i remove a connector and pressure exceeded my tire pressure gauge the one time i checked it. I'll need to repeat that pressure test and see if that was accurate or not.

Thanks. I've got tons of safety glasses and get free ones annually, lol. a friend has a cornea implant from a tool breaking and sending a piece of metal into his eye. A guy who helped watch my kids while I was in the ER had me for racquetball class a few years ago and when I got done said "Don't you remember from racquetball, always wear your goggles!!"

Yes filling at any line will fill any strut that has its solenoid open. The fuse was blown causing my issues. Oddly the suspension light blinked and some things could still be activated so it didn't appear immediately "dead". Have a few leaks to track down.....found one right before the bag blew in my face.

lessons tonight: 1. wear eye protection 2. 150psi can blow an XT6 airbag, BAM!!! 3. When you talk to the emergency personnel don't tell them "an air bag blew in my face". They think steering wheel air bags and look at you like "okay, so what?" 4. Morgan Lenses are suction cups/contact lenses with small tubes for 30 minutes of eye irrigation. I got lucky, no permanent damage or surgery needed.

This is for a US XT6, which doesn't come with a "high" setting. I'm currently troubleshooting my XT6 that had non-working air suspension when I got it. I've already filled one rear strut - if I add external air in the rear air strut line - and open the solenoid - that strut fills up. But if I add air in that same rear air strut line - and open a different strut solenoid - it's not airing up, and that doesn't make sense since all the air lines go directly to the drier and share that reservoir so to speak - so it seems like any pressure in the lines should fill up any strut which has an open solenoid (lettting air in). 1. Try it again and at every strut 2. Pressurize the system then check pressure with a gauge and see if it's holding/loosing air 3. Check for clogged drier or air lines Once air is confirmed moving and holding pressure then I can: 4. Test pressure switch 5. Compressor output 6. Tank solenoid 7. Swap controller 8. Scrap the original controller and install fillable schrader valves. LOL Okay thanks, this is note taking and planning an attack, it gets confusing when I'm in there.

I fully realize most people convert and maybe no one on this forum knows the answer...but just in case: Shouldn't I be able to turn on the compressor and open a strut solenoid to air up that individual strut? Is that true? The system has a charge solenoid on it as well and the FSM and Subaru literature mentions turning that solenoid on as well - but I'm not sure that's necessary - that's just connected to the tank and for storing reserve air as I'm understanding it.

1. the fluids are incorrect (type, location, or quantity) 2. ATF is pushing past seals into the front diff, overfilling it and thereby pushing it out the diff breather. You won't notice any fluid issues right away because the gear oil masks the ATF and ATF quantity is nearly 10x that of the front diff. Just keep topping off the gear oil and eventually you'll notice the ATF is loosing fluid.

1. AUTO or manual? 2. Oil level is correct - which oil did you check - front diff, ATF, or gear oil? 3. are you absolutely positive it's the correct fluid type - i presume you filled it, it didn't come pre-filled right? if it's an automatic - make sure front diff has gear oil at proper level and ATF is properly filled in transmission. People sometimes confuse the ATF and gear oil on automatics. Manual trans shares gear oil between the front diff and gear set in the trans and just has one fill/dipstick for the gear oil.

i've had luck pulling both drivers and passengers side panels and using the "good side" as a guide for adjusting and installing power windows.

it'll run. Swap the drivers side cam pulley and crank sprocket. then it'll start and run, it's a Phase II and needs to see the Phase II triggers for timing/fuel/etc. but the idle control is different and they don't idle right, you'll need to prop the throttle plate open or try to swap throttle bodies/idle control mechanisms. you should have seen this wiring/idle control difference while swapping the wiring harness that the idle controllers were different right? swapping heads would work.

swap the O2 sensors from side to side. free and if they're the cause, the symptoms should move as well. HG just keep an eye on how much it's loosing and keep the fluids topped off and you'll be fine. they usually force a repair once they're leaking enough to drip on the exhaust and smoke like crazy.

all XT's have an odd asymmetric steering wheel design...and odd lots of other things too.

sounds normal. check or replace engine/trans mounts if it's sloppy and severe or noisy due to this. i'm weird and will get belittled for this but i don't do engine braking (except in certain situations - steep snow or towing). probably a pointless distinction to consider but i'd rather extra use/wear be on brake pads than shifter bushings, linkages, synchro's, trans, engine.

really hard to say without the P codes.

there's a loose solder joint in the speedometer. it's very, very common in 1999 models and some 1998/2000 models have it happen as well. you can google the solder repair - it is well documented. if you're not comfortable soldering - remove the instrument cluster (really easy) and take it, and a printed out pictures/threads of people that have done it before and have a shop do it. it takes like no time at all, they shoudlnt' charge much of anything. or sometimes you end up needing to replace the cluster. www.car-part.com and buy one with similar mileage - they're cheap and easy to replace. get a 1996-1997 model maybe and you'll avoid that 99 specific solder joint issue? if they're interchangeable, which I'd imagine they are.

No, i have no idea on the size of the pin. why would it destroy it to measure it? Only half of those screws need removed, the ones that attach the inner assembly to the outer housing. throw some light down there and you should be able to distinguish at least most of the ones that attach directly to a boss within the housing. The rest just hold the inner contraption together and can remain. The screws are the easy part - they're not as bad as it first appears once you start moving the mirror around and getting the screws out. there are wobble attachments and flex drivers if you wanted, but they're not necessary.

Another difference I've already mentioned is value and perception, it's totally different between here and there. It is not even a thought to wonder if a car can last 10 more years out west. Here that's not even close to reality. Rust is what it is and if you have inspections it can be an endless game of high dollar repairs - exhaust, quarter panels, doglegs, suspension, brakes.... Not only does this create personal, anecdotal issues with one car - it creates an overall perception of older cars as being risky and money pits which pervades the entire market. I rarely see 95-99 stuff any more and 00-04 are quickly headed that direction.

Suspicious? It's widely known, anyone who specializes in subaru's for the past 20 years wouldn't even raise an eyebrow at this. I've seen new axles explode in less than 50 miles multiple times. Never OEM. Their boots are certainly worse, they click right out of the box, they absolutely suck for installing in lifted Subarus, and the vibration in drive issue is extremely common. I've never seen a catastrophically failed OEM axle - they are robust as crazy. I've put 50,000 clicking, broken boot miles on fronts and 100,000 on rears and never had them fail. It's one of the most common diagnosis/parts/repair issues on subaru forums, it's literally never ending: https://allwheeldriveauto.com/seattle-subaru-cv-boots-and-axle-problems-explained/ https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=subaru+aftermarket+axle+site:www.subaruoutback.org http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/37399-vibration-idle-after-replacing-front-axles-solved.html http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/cv-axle-oem-aftermarket-215031.html?t=215031

1. What he said - make sure the drain nozzles are attached to the tubes. And make sure they're clean at the top and bottom (compressed air is probably ideal here). 2. If the sunroof glass seal (the rubber going around the glass) is damaged I buy an entire used one for $35-$100 all day long: www.car-part.com If it's just the glass seal - just swap the glass only, those are really easy to swap out, a matter of minutes. A shop should not charge much at all. They can get damaged if people put something up there - like mounted on the roof or run a cable through it (antenna...?), I don't know what people put up there but i've seen it - the gaskets get "notched" or even cut lightly on purpose. You can't buy gaskets, so just get a used glass that hasn't been cut/damaged in that way. They don't fail enough, and they're so easy to replace, that buying new is pointless. 3. If it's leaking due to rust - then you should post a picture before we can say specifically but that would be the most likely "time to move on" scenario.

As to JDM - none provide better engines than another. There is a massive supply of engines from Japan and each company is simply tapping into that same supply with no advantage over another in terms of knowing anything substantive about the engines they're getting. It would come down to customer service, minor differences, and very small percentage rates. One company may be slightly better at culling product but the statistics would be so low the public will only see anecdotal evidence.

You still haven't confirmed for sure the engine needs replaced. Leaking oil often means valve covers or oil cooler gasket - cheap and easy. Smell of coolant can be ambiguous - a small leak, a radiator cap not sealing properly...etc. I already answered that: SUbaru Coolant Condition is $2.50 from Subaru. I wouldn't use anything else. Additives in general should be avoided every time without a compelling platform specific reason. This one is part of a comprehensive Subaru initiative....maybe not ideal but better than billy's cousin's neighbor friend telling you to throw some magic cure in your engine. No there are no oil additives that are worth trying on that engine.

Any 1995-2004 axle from a forester, impreza, legacy, or outback will work. I'd try to get a 2000+ OB/Legacy as they're better axles, the outer boots are far more durable. knock the tone ring off the outer joint. it just taps off with a hammer. Some people leave them on so that's not required but I remove them. Make sure it has a green inner cup so it's a Subaru OEM axle. An OEM subaru axle will last the life of the car if you reboot it. 95-99 outback struts work 00-04 front outback struts as work forester struts i think are a common strut for a few inches as well - you can google it. i have much less experience with this but it's a common topic. for easy parts searching: www.car-part.com That's not what high capacity Subaru people would recommend. OEM Subaru axles routinely last the life of the vehicle without issues. Aftermarket new or remanne'd have issues all the time, very common. Google "subaru axle issues" or some other combination and you'll see infinite examples. I had a brand new axle blow up already this year - in about 50 miles. And that's not rare. The outer boots are far more durable.

That's not normal - probably because there's still water in it or something ominous.... How could a transmission get that much water in it? The hood was left up and the dipstick removed?

Any 1995-1998 Impreza or Forester as well. Which includes all 2.2's and 1998 2.5 Impreza's and Foresters. Note the 98/99 confusion - 1999 Outback/Legacy are okay, but not Forester/Impreza - only 1998 for those.