idosubaru

that would be an awesome option for XT6 folks converting hubs/axles to EJ without messing with all the ebrake issues. wonder if someone long ago just go confused and thought XT6 hubs and caliper bracket were EJ...but they weren't!? really early 1990's legacy calipers have a different part number (1990 being split by manufacture date). i'm not sure if that's just a superficial upgrade and they're interchangeable with later stuff anyway or a substantial difference, the part number is no longer available to buy and i'm not sure how to check. i think it's : subaru 26220AA141

EZ36 is the only engine that even meets your criteria unless you want forced induction but that might encroach on longevity/reliability depending what your personal markers are on that front. EG33's are excellent engines but not super common and probably not "newer" depending on what your definition of that is. FB25 would be my pick for longevity but doesn't meet your power goals. An "easy" option would be to try to run an EZ36 with earlier 00-04 EZ30 electronics to avoid all the immobilizer jugernaut. you'll get the increased displacement but loose the variable valve stuffs so it'll take a hit in output. "newer" is highly ambiguous. 1990's is "newer" in that it's the EJ platform. 2000-2005 are fossils to others.

No - or at least, not easily - EJ brake caliper bracket bolt spacing is wider than XT6.

It's really simple: 1. remove or replace the slide pin bushings 2. clean and regrease slides and bores with Sil Glyde or equivalent, do not use regular brake grease (like the common green Permatex can -i t's not very good, doesn't last long) 3. replace pad clips - they get distorted, dust build up, and rust which all can hang the pad. Do that and pads last fine and rotors last the life of the vehicle normally.

what he said. how much oil was left in the oil pan? did you refill it mid-trip or just kept limping it along that entire 2 hours with low oil? cutting open the filter and draining/testing the oil left in the pan would be a good first step that gives some (the only available) quantitative data rather than just guessing.

1. disassemble the axle, clean, and regrease it. iv'e done it before and they have no issues at all afterwards. i think the lack of grease just causes noises like anything else, but isn't necessarily doing nearly as much damage as people suspect or assume. 2. get a used axle if available.

Low coolant level Clogged/compromised radiator. 100% predictable overheating symptoms are a sign of a reduced internal circulation rates or reduced efficiency of existing mechanisms. and it makes perfect sense - climbing a hill is extremely taxing (just push/pull/carry something very heavy on flat land then try up hill - the difference is enormous) - it may be only then that a 50% capacity radiator can't dump enough heat. in order of most likely to least likely this means: 1. compromised radiator (usually clogged) 2. stuck thermostat 3. debris impeding air flow from the grille to radiator but guessing isn't always good so: you can run a garden hose through the radiator. I like to compare it side by side with another radiator, but a good radiator should flow all, or most, of a garden hose turned all the way up but that's somewhat dependent on radiator and hose flow rate. test thermostat in a pan of boiling water. replace with OEM. 1. verify coolant level *in the radiator* isn't dropping over a period of time. an internal headgasket breech will eventually result in declining coolant levels. 2. verify no leaks 3. make sure radiator cap is functioning properly. 4. verify fans but you seem to think they're fine. 5. i've never seen this happen but just to be sure make sure the front of the vehicle, a/c condensoer, radiator fins aren't clogged/impeded by cardboard or debris.

Reboot no big deal. Light clicking will be fine. At worst it just slowly gets worse over 10's of thousands of miles, clicking at ever increasing angles 1 degree a year...no big deal. Catastrophic failure of an OEM axle you'll never see unless you're hard core rock crawling. If you're around Morgantown WV, hartsels Exxon and Summers are always fair for people I know and myself. They aren't cheap but reasonable and they never make up stuff for me, straight shooters. I can't imagine they'd steal parts and have always been stand up.

Grind cut at key way, tap pull it'll come off. If you had to Dremmel the pulley it could be cut off as a last resort, sacrifice the pump to finish. Wouldn't be worth all the effort though.

What would be interesting to find out is if this flatness could be measured and remedied now that oil pumps are hard to find.

Like this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/78216-mickey-mouse-gasket-woes/

Oddly when it is the pumps - they don't noticeably leak, fail or cause any issues besides TOD. So I'm not sure what the failure mode is but it's common and weird since it's not a clear failure mode. Like one you can easily inspect. It just works a huge percentage of the time (every time reseals haven't). I have seen Mickey Mouse oil pump orings where one of the small ears of that gasket gets sucked in and looks like PAC man. Wether that causes TOD I'm not sure but that doesn't look nominal. But here's the real point - I've seen newly installed gaskets exhibit that same deformation. Again I'm not sure if that's a cause but it certainly looks suspect. Maybe the pump flatness doesn't maintain proper clamping force on the gasket.

Yep Mickey Mouse gasket, shaft seal, (ea has an oring the ER engine doesn't fixes them frequently. It's common for that not to work, they usually just need another pump. I have a detailed write up on ticking that paints a complete picture of failure modes listed in order of most common.

Pull fuse. Pump motor power. SRS you can disrupt any component with a switch and the system will perceive an issue and shut off the SRS and airbags for you. I've never worried about it or had airbags inadvertently go off or really heard of it but I don't do anything crazy. I've rebuilt a few totaled Subarus and surprised how odten airbags don't go off, it's only certain parameters. Was your other vehicle old (early tech), low to the ground (more susceptible to triggers), or known for having issues?

I'll qualify my stance - I don't want to sound like I'm advocating having an attitude and accusing them - it's possible to have a polite discussion with no expectations in order that you can make a good assessment about what to do moving forward, in the future.

This is almost a self-defeating process you're attempting - "I'm waiting until the car starts to test for a no start condition" The vehicle SHOULD NOT BE TESTED unless it's not starting. Once that happens - then voltages need checked to determine which of these are the culprit: 1. Starter 2. How old is the battery? 3. If the battery is new - why is it new? 4. Are the battery terminals TIGHT and CLEAN? I'd rather not guess or assume but if the shop is guessing all these random parts that aren't normally the issue - it sure sounds like near theivery. Let's check and replace things that rarely fail? Makes no sense at all. You need to verify that the starter is seeing a full 12 volts during the no-start condition - someone with a multi-meter could figure this out in 3 minutes. The easiest solution is to learn how to do it yourself. Otherwise you'll have to keep guessing. Since they're so cheap i'd maybe plug in one of these just to see if the voltage your chassis is seeing is changing during the no-start conditions: https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Electric-Cigarette-Lighter-Voltmeter/dp/B00AQAQIGO/ref=pd_sim_263_5?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00AQAQIGO&pd_rd_r=794Z1KCBEXNF6QX2TE3Z&pd_rd_w=Nycsu&pd_rd_wg=k5nzu&psc=1&refRID=794Z1KCBEXNF6QX2TE3Z But truthfully that's unlikely to show you anything. Better would be simply spending 3 minutes to test things yourself when it's not starting. This is almost a self-defeating enterprise - you're waiting until the car starts to go test it for a no-start condition.

Sometimes I can't believe these stories where people pay that much money for ***absolutely nothing***. So bizarre. I'd be having some long talks with the dealer, management, and finding out what their overall philosophy is on incorrectly diagnosing something and how they would feel if they were paying for a service that never happen. If they paid the cleaning company to clean all their matts and carpets and the company changed their toilet paper instead for loads of money they would not accept that deal. There's absolutely no way they're fine with that kind of operation.

If that doesn't work, replacing the pump has solved every other TOD i've encountered. Others say sometimes they need cam carrier orings replaced but I've never seen that and wonder if it's mostly relegated to 86 and older engines or high mileage, poorly maintained, or something like that. i've never seen it. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/136547-ea82-er27-ticking-tod-hydraulic-valve-lash-hla-noise-diagnose-and-repair/

absolutely not. these things have been ticking for long periods of time for two decades. i have no idea how many ticking EA/ER engines i've seen, well into double digits and i've never seen any engine failures or issues from it. ignore it and carry on. i mean i prefer to at least try an oil pump reseal or swapping another oil pump or three as it's not that hard - but i wouldn't ever fault someone for not doing it who can't DIY it.

If you can't compress them with a C Clamp replace them. I've never known them to be easily fully pumped up in a bag of oil off the vehicle so the other 5 sound normal to me. Mizpah sells rebuilt ones for cheap or rebuilds yours for $5. Makes it a no brainer to just be done with it if there's any uncertainty. Every ticking EA82 and ER27 I've fixed with a new oil pump. Never needed to do more than that except on seized HLAs which were usually from overheated head gasket blown vehicles.

I don't think so. i think 99 is phase II trans which have some changes. Someone else will confirm. They're the same final drive ratio though.

You'll have to bleed that caliper, but not the rest if you're able to plug just the one line. if a bolt gets tight just leave it and come back to it so it has a chance to cool down. As they get tight they heat up which aids shearing. If they may be bad I'll work them back and forth - loosen, turn back in, loosen, turn back in....repeat. Take breaks if they're heating up. This keeps them from shearing. Do you have to disconnect the brake line? I'm wondering if you can't just unbolt it all and push it out of the way without disconnecting anything. I think a brake line may be connected to the arm but there's probably a way around that like the lines onfront struts - just notch the hold down clip so you can bend one side out of the way and slide the brake line out.

1. pulls timing cover - is the crank pulley borked? 2. line up timing marks and see if they're still properly lined up 3. start engine and see if the timing belt is flopping around. you can leave the covers and even the crank pulley and all the drivebelts off while you test it - it'll start, run, and drive on battery power.

My guess is you get the right charge and it'll be fine. That's usually the case. It's a waste of time if you're guessing on the charge. Even the cheap/plastic throw away one-time use gauges at the auto parts store are reasonable enough for DIY work or diagnosing if you don't have a full manifold gauge set. i've got a full set and almost never use it, like once in 10 years. The two orings between the air hoses and a/c compressors leak *all* *the* *time*, particularly on those H6's. I was seeing that and repairing it multiple times - so far almost every subaru a/c failure i've repaired was those two orings - and yet I had never seen one person, friend, or thread that said "My mechanic/shop replaced the orings and fixed my subaru". I did a write up which hit on a common and largely un-talked about issue, which now is widely known: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/99-do-yourself-illustrated-guides/43428-diy-c-air-conditioning-leak-refrigerant-repair-5-less-15-minutes-less.html 6 ounces sounds like a ton of oil to add but i'm sure it spreads through the system and covers the internals.

Even the cheap one time use gauges are better than just saying "high" - how did you determine its "high"?