idosubaru

It isn't, it's clearly thinner than others. But I'll be mic'ing it if I have to and look for options. Or make some kind of adapter/conversion.

XT6 timing pulleys use this bearing that gives zero hits when googled. I've carefully vetted the number, it's NSK, no other possibilities, substituted for other letters/numbers, truncated from both ends - nothing. NSK couldn't help either - but he was likely an entry level guy who just plugs and chugs easy questions all day. I asked him if bearings are ever obsolete and he said yes. Would be nice if the spec's were or a cross reference were still available. NSK bearing part number: 5OSTD61DWAX Options: 1. mic the bearing and see if anything else exists 2. fabricate another solution 3. or maybe I should just regrease them like i've always done - but that compromises the face seal when they're this old and brittle.

Location didn't show up on my phone - may command higher price in CO/PNW areas.

A guy ran his 90's OBS for a few years with no issues before removing it all and going back to stock. But it was 15 years or so ago, i don't recall any details.

Repair with used engine Sell as is on craigslist for $500 and no less (start at $700 if you're not good at setting a price and keeping it). Find a cheap 00-04 needing a transmission or front end wreck and swap your parts over. Front end work would be the easiest. Bumpers, fenders, hood are all super easy to swap and many light end wrecks that is all they need. I've swapped a hood and headlight in an hour and had a dirt cheap nice wagon in an hour or two. If cars are different color, Paint is $250 per panel at a shop or get matched cans at NAPA for $20 and do it yourself. Parting out varies but without a concerted effort I find it a low grade option.

Love it! please confuse this diluted topic with good questions! Not to sound flippant of course, make good decisions.

yep, that's what most people do! you meant to say "til the rear quarters, rear subframe, exhaust, door sills, doglegs, and suspension bolts rust off. lol

It's the opposite - they do *not* shut down for safety reasons....or more precisely, for liability reasons. Wouldn't take long for a lawyer to blame an engine cutting out for an accident, being stranded on the highway and getting hit...etc. if you like the idea - just go buy one and install it. i believe most people install it in line with the fuel pump or fuel pump relay. Generators have less liability concerns...or very complex ones with compromising environments and weather conditions, back feeding, sub par cords and connections, few ever meet "building codes", extension cords powering houses, CO poisoning... you mean new Subaru's like the ones that don't have a temperature gauge? lol they have the super helpful oil light that comes on when you're already dangerously low.

FI on an an NA engine has been done plenty of times - google how far other people took it. Multiple times over the years I've thought by now we'd be seeing this far more common and talked about, why is it not? Just low volume of people doing it? I haven't even heard of anyone playing with it in years, I figured it was going extinct.

based on the melted timing belt cover, i would have done an oil analysis and see if the data shows any bearing material in it. i've seen two melted timing belt covers - one was an immediate blown mess, the other lasted maybe a week or a month before a rod started giving death wails. and i've seen a melted knock sensor before but i can't recall the story on that engine.

your engine will blow up. actually it doesn't matter. you can run 300,000 miles all day long on a Subaru with whatever oil filter is on sale, regardless of the endless diatribes about bypass filters. not that i'm encouraging flippancy, but reality is reality. is there one bit of statistically meaningful quantitative data about average, well maintained daily driver engine issues due to oil filters? all i've seen is armchair quarterbacking of the same regurgitated attitudes for 20 years.

Green is the color of the original OEM installed Subaru axles. Those last the life of the vehicle - it is frankly...well....it's actually...stupid...to replace the OEM axles since they last the life of the vehicles. Mechanics do it because it's easier and they make more money even though it's no more expensive to just reboot an axle rather than replace it with cheap aftermarkets. If you have to replace an axle: www.car-part.com and buy a $15 OEM axle that will last forever.

Very common. 1. resurface the front rotors - this literally works like 100% of the time on Subaru's. (if you pay close attention you can often even tell which side it is and just resurface that side - pointless to do both) 2. replace front rotors. 3. some people say there's a high speed braking process you can do to smooth this out - i haven't tried it yet, but worth a look if you're going to dig into it soon anyway. 4. use sil-glyde or high quality caliper grease otherwise the pin bushings will swell and cause the slides to stick in the caliper bores. it also lasts much better than traditional caliper grease too. rear Subaru rotors last the life of the vehicle and are nearly pointless to turn or replace unless you just like clean and shiny.

$450 EJ22 in Alabama: 256-259-2382 $300 EJ18's: 1-800-331-5282 (if you just need it running, get an EJ18 - they do fine in flat land like alabama) Maximize your sourcing: www.car-part.com Here are instructions on swapping to an EJ22 or EJ18: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/153118-ej22-or-ej18-swap-into-ej25d-dohc-vehicle/

I'm not versed enough to say. I've seen more failures on EZ engines than H4's and for the 90's more EJ25's than EJ22's - too small of a sample size for me to make anything of it, but if they're more common on the larger engines it might suggest they're a weak link. Although I can't prove it helps, I would elevate front diff oil change importance, seems to get little air play for the risk-reward ratio. They can be repaired: bearings can be $100 a pop plus seals and the labor R&P is like $600+ just for the parts swapping in a used front diff It's a tough decision sometimes, but most people opt for a used trans over the complexity of the backlash and bearing pre load complexity as well as the labor costs.

used transmission www.car-part.com

Hose Diameter - is that dependent on compressor fitting size? Meaning larger diameter is good even if the compressor fitting size stays the same? Seems obvious but I've never thought about this stuff since I got my first compressor a long time ago. Material - I can google this but rubber or hybrid or pcv ?

Subaru engines are easy to just toss on an old tire or upside down wheel or other equipment in a cluttered garage or just do on the floor one side at a time if this is a one off gig. But yeah I've had one for years. It's just a stand, not much that can go wrong. I wouldn't call the three point kind Super stable and maybe don't use it if you let 6 years climb over dangerous stuff in your garage but it's perfectly fine.

1. check fluid level 2. check the AT pan and make sure it's not dented 3. what's the history - this car has ran 100% like new since you bought it nearly 20 years ago and never had one repair...or something else? 4. read the check engine codes - what do you get? does the AT light flash continuously forever - or 16 times at first start up and then stops? some years you can just ground a pin and it'll flash codes: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/20304-2000-outback-cel-oil-temp-light-constantly-flashes-2.html follow the convoluted process for retrieving AT codes - it's a really long and convoluted process which results in the light then blinking the code. if you can't get it to work then a shop or Subaru will need to do it. here's the procedure: Warm up the engine Turn the ignition switch OFF Turn the ignition switch ON Start the engine Drive the vehicle at speeds greater than 12 MPH Stop the vehicle Depress the brake pedal and move the gear selector to "1" Turn the ignition switch to OFF Turn the ignition switch to ON Move the gear selector to "2" Move the gear selector to "1" Move the gear selector to "2" Move the gear selector to "3" Move the gear selector to "D"

I would stay with synthetic, just run thicker. Probably wasting time and thought with that meager of a change, it'll fair no different. I'd probably try 15w-40 synthetic in non winter/non frigid climates for a thousand miles just to see what happens.

Was it stuck from sitting a long time? that's common. First sentence of your first post says it locked up from a blown head gasket. Warping and cracking is nearly pointless on those heads, but surface finish is not. The idea on these particular heads is that you don't resurface for warping - you do it for surface finish. You haven't told us if this is a phase I or phase II EJ25. What brand head gasket was used? 1. How many plugs were fouled? If all four Id say check the oil level (see if it's unusually high) and intake for oil and make sure it's not drinking it's own oil. If its one cylinder then do a leak down test and verify it's the rings or valve stem seals. Although with that much loss I would assume it's piston rings, but best to confirm.

You need another engine. If it's an EJ25D (1996-1998 EJ25 or 1999 Legacy or Outback EJ25) then swap in an EJ22 and have 100,000 mile reliability. I wouldn't reuse a Subaru engine if it was locked up due to blowing headgaskets. Even if you get the repair to hold the lower end bearings fail so often on previously overheated vehicles I wouldn't consider it worth the time/money to repair. That said - when the engine was mis-timed: 1. did you simply try to re-time it and see what happens? 2. were the valves bent?

the timing belt kits are everywhere on ebay. i would only do the gaskets that need replaced - don't replace headgaskets if they're not leaking. they usually like like gutters from the valve covers - just reseal the valve cover gaskets, which is 50x easier than a head gasket job.

You're like 10 minutes of work away from seeing the timing belt - it's almost silly to not *at least* look. if you removed all the belts for the accessories you're almost able to see the timing belts already. (Subaru timing belts are way easier than other models). 1. remove 2 12mm bolts for the A/C idler 2. remove 22mm crank bolt (stick a large screw driver through the rear bellhousing access hole plug to keep engine from rotating. like this, i use the first method: https://www.google.com/search?q=subaru+bellhousing+access+hole&espv=2&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwj58ISIxPbSAhXFSCYKHYCACP0Q_AUIBygC&biw=1164&bih=835#imgrc=3US_3tisDsu1_M: http://s226.photobucket.com/user/boostedbug/media/Subaru%20conversion/valance019.jpg.html 3. remove 10mm timing covers That's it - then you can see if it's a pulley or tensioner flopping. You can even just remove the 3 drivers side 10mm bolts to see the belt and maybe catch a glimpse oft he

It's piston slap. Period. Remedy - knurl the existing pistons or install new ones.