idosubaru

Ideally you need to check pressures. Just saying it's "high" is so ambiguous ita hard to assume anything. Has the AC ever worked in this car? Is this an unknown history situation or it worked perfectly one day then not the next?

Replacing two calipers on a Subaru this new is weird. Why was that done? Subaru calipers last 200,000 miles all day long, replacing two is unlikely to be bad luck. 1. Silglyde brake grease. 2. New caliper retaining clips If you're in the rust belt it's not a bad idea to check pins/grease wverybtire rotation or when swapping winter/summer tires. I've seen cheap pads perform fine but last 15,000 miles on other vehicles so presumably it's likely on Subarus but I generally avoid them.

Can you seat the seal "more" or "less" deep to a more preferential area of the camshaft (least amount or no amount of damage? I'd expect a smooth and even finish to work most of the time as well. A filler is easy enough to try, give it a go if you have to. Is that up to the task of sealing a moving surface long term?

Make sure you don't have the 90-92 model legacy clogging trans line issue. Subaru made a fix or repair for this. Even if you have catastrophic trans failure or it's too late, I'd address that now. automatic. I'm interpreting the two metal lines as supply and return lines. I've seen a lot of engine and trans damage to anything that sticks out due to shipping. I think some companies (JDM in particular) specifically mention some external things aren't warrantied and you should plan on swapping them. If you're amped about trans replacement down load the FSMs and look at the pinouts. (They're available free on the interwebs with some searching). If they're similar then there's a chance they'll work. This doesnnt guarantee all the solenoids are identical but may show it worth checking into. Then you can swap the new transmission pins into the old transmission connectors if the electronics are the same. Label all the wires then De-pin both connectors and swap the old onto the new.

copy -not that i'm encouraging pounding axles, just didn't want you freaked out about next time if it was a first time experience. yeah 2005+ are bolt on bearings and super easy to replace - if you don't have rust issues. be prepared with air chisel, slide hammer or appropriate tools to slide the assembly out. otherwise it's really easy and simple. i flew to atlanta and helped a friend in his parking lot replace his with minimal tools and no work area.

I've dremel tooled a piece of metal the same size as that flange as well and sealed it with RTV. Had any rust debacles yet on the east coast? exhaust studs and those lower engine mounts are the most prone and annoying to deal with sometimes.

i've never used a tie rod tool or special socket on the many Subaru tie rods i've done, they're rather easy IMO. i've used plumbers wrenches in the past as well. the smaller flat spot for holding the tie rod stationary is 13mm.

i've seen HLA's take a long time - like 15 minutes or so to quiet down before, so I wouldn't use that as a definitive symptom of any oil pump issues. have you tried an actual pressure gauge to see what's it's actually doing rather than rely on the stock sender, wiring, and cluster which are commonly problematic? you can click on nearly any of these threads and see how common "low oil pressure readings" are, they rarely end up being actual issues: https://www.google.com/search?q=subaru+low+oil+pressure+EA82+site:www.ultimatesubaru.org&espv=2&biw=1164&bih=790&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiC7_-3nbjSAhXHOyYKHTp7CfQQrQIIJigEMAA

If you want to change your bearing preload and backlash and destroy your transmission - yes. He already told you how to do it - pry it out - you're making it more complicated for yourself by ignoring his comment and trying to find some other way or trick. I would guess most people simply need more room to work since it requires reasonable force or access for nearly 180 degree application of said force. Get the car high up in the air so you can get some good leverage and impact on it. I'll use a piece of 2x4 and a hammer and tap around the edge of the CV cup. Or pry it out, be careful not to leverage against something fragile.

Good test on on the sending unit to make sure stuff is moving. Is the pressure low or the gauge low - those aren't always the same thing? What was it before the job? The gauges are notoriously inaccurate, even FSM's mention how low the pressure reads. Check sender and/or gauge. I have seen the oil pump ball/spring valves fail before - the little metal ridge that holds the ball/spring in place just breaks and the ball and spring can come out. I'm not sure what symptoms that causes, I've just seen it before.

Yep - sounds like bearings are hosed. 2003 and 2006 knuckles are interchangeable physically but the ABS set up is different. You could swap them and not have ABS. You could swap them and try to splice in the 2003 ABS sensor wiring (which the yard would typically gladly include for free) and hope the tone-ring counting fidelity is the same. 2006 has bolt on bearings - just buy new bearings. It's a really easy job - but if you're in the rust belt or unlucky they can be very hard to pull out. The bearings can generally take obsessive beatings, not that I recommend it of course, but at this point it doesn't much matter just gotta fix the issue at hand. I've wailed axles so hard the end mushroomed and couldn't pull through the hub without cutting/grinding the ends off. Bearings fine. Again - not recommending it - i'm just saying you don't have to view the bearings as weak links ready to fail either.

Fuse was blown (that's why solenoid testing wasn't properly working) Both rear air lines were cut - I spliced in some lines from parts cars with 1/8"-1/8" brass compression fittings. One air line cracked (by rear air strut, easily heard when under pressure) Compressor was shot (turning on, but not enough output) Air lines at the compressor leaking 4 out of 6 rear air struts were leaking through the bags (so slowly that soapy water didn't reveal it). Finally back to XT6 air suspension after quite a few years. I'll tidy it up this summer with some new orings, probably swap struts, and install my lift, and an adjustable height switch. I also installed a schrader valve so I can manually fill if needed. One air line was cracked Compressor was shot Air lines at the compressor leaking 4 out of 6 rear air struts I had were leaking through the bags So after quite a debacle I'm back to XT6 air suspension again after quite a few years.

trace every wire from the ECU? check power and grounds in multiple configurations: like key off, ignition on, ACC on, even while cranking if you have to?

i've rebooted two noisy vibrating front axles and they've been smooth as a whistle for years.

are you saying front inner axle boots work on the rear axles? is that for EA81 or EA82?

Does that ever happen to Subarus specifically? Has anyone on here had that happen? Seems odd for a company to design a part for vehicles with broken engine mounts. The few with a completely separated engine mount I've seen had no axle issues. "torque bind" floods any search with "bind" but google can't find any instances of it happening. Which Subaru models or sitations does it happen in?

You can't just swap and plug and play 05+ stuff. I would really dig into this topic before you assume that's all good. The ECU, keys, and immoblizer box are married together, they must stay as a set...maybe more or less components.... it's the reason everyone swaps 04 and earlier stuff and says dont' even try 05+ unless you're going stand alone. i think you need to dig into and verify that topic - google "2005 Subaru immobilizer swap" or some variants of that phrase and I think you'll find what I'm referring to.

I like having one cheap $35 scanner which has read every SUbaru i've thrown at them and additional scanners. Get a cheap basic read/erase one for $35 and a phone/computer based one with data logging/freeze frame capabilities. Keep one at home in the garage and another in the car or your work bag so it's always with you. Super convenient, I don't have to worry about breaking the cheap one if I'm in a big project, doing test drives, helping a friend, etc. I also am generally running 3 or 4 Subaru's at a given time and probably looking at someone's car gratuitously every week or two so my needs are probably different.

yeah well done man. I think the mocking up and lining up part looks like the hard part. takes me forever. engine rebuilds are easy - *this bolt* goes in *that hole* wash, rinse, repeat. body work and custom exhaust welding i've done but it's just hard for me, partly because I'm not inclined towards it, partly because my equipment is low grade, and partly because I've never put much thought into set up that would help/make it easy. thanks for the pics, i'll spend more time on the set up/mock up next time.

This is from the rockauto link and Trakmotiv add says this axle solves that issue. For what situations does that occur? I've never experienced it in lifted XT6's or seen it talked about on here.

have you tried OEM axles? is it more than 2" of body lift with no drop blocks/spacers?

Can you swap 2005+ ECU's just plug and play or is there some more complicated process due to immobilizer, CANBUS, programming....? I'd get the FSM and look through the diagnostic procedures for that code - FSM's are free and all over the internet. What is the history of the car - you bought it showroom new and have put every reliable mile without a glitch on it up until the point this happened? Or it was totaled, salvage, rebuilt, then sat through flood waters, rebuilt again, stolen, recovered, and repaired, then you bought it at auction cheap?

Practically speaking that's inconsequential as a diagnostic tool. First step is to check the fluid Second step is to look at mileage and fluid changes Third is to sit in drivers and passengers seat and stand outside the vehicle while it's being driven past to determine if the noise is more left/right or central.

yep, should be. thread is 6 years old.

probably not - these things can leak like 3 year old wet paper cup and not affect sensors. if it's shifting poorly then it's not the instrument cluster - you can completely remove the cluster and the car drives just fine.