idosubaru

You first want to make sure the transmission or rear diff weren't replaced with an different final drive ratio unit.

You can also replace one at a time or just front or just rears. Replace fronts and simply disconnect rear once they're aired up and leave them. Or jumper appropriate height sensor wires for removed air struts to mimic height sensor "In range" status so you have coil over installed but it acts like good air struts are in place indefinitely. Do your front and rears still hold air?

Here's your big unknown: you can find someone ditching their old failed VLSD unit or trans if it's a VLSD 5 speed and run that in this fashion.

It's been done before and works just fine in MTs and I'd guess ATs too. It's going to be weaker but holds fine for average daily driver use applications. In ATs with torque bind the rear hub can shear off with excessive binding and stress. If you're making a RWD drag car or doing burnouts and drifting I'd imagine that's where you'll see failures. You might want to investigate wether VTD or MPT is more robust. Two different styles that transmit power differently. The VTD originally came in H6 vehicles so it has the opportunity (not saying I know that to be true) to be beefier from a design standpoint. Which would be ideal if you're turning your trans into a PTO. Lol

You'll never know how bad the engine was overheated so it's all just guess work and comes down to how much is your time worth? Your only chance of learning something concrete about either engine is two fold: 1. Check the knock sensor and timing covers closely. If they're melted I'd probably move onto another engine. I have seen cheap, overheated EJ25s bought with melted plastic and installed and knock shortly after. 2. A used oil analysis (online, send you a free kit and you mail a sample back) could tell you if oil or bearings were compromised. Either way - Let's say you got a 40 percent chance (totally making that up) of the block blowing in a year. That's still a 60% chance of making good on the effort which is a great fit for some.

Good point! I've done it before - if it's the start of symptoms - they respond well to fluid changes. I've done multiple drain and refills and torque bind goes away. Just depends how bad it is and what the root cause is as to whether that will work or not.

I don't memorize my tools and step but I feel like I use a 14mm 1/2" socket on EJ25 head bolts, but maybe I grab a 3/8"... order it if you can't find it locally: https://www.amazon.com/Crescent-CDS44-Standard-Length-Socket/dp/B00I984EV6/ref=sr_1_14?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1493400803&sr=1-14&keywords=14mm+3%2F8%22+12+point+socket https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W38814-12-Point-Socket/dp/B000N322JG/ref=sr_1_6?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1493400803&sr=1-6&keywords=14mm+3%2F8%22+12+point+socket https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/sk-3-8-drive-12-point-standard-socket-14mm-skt2314/22985516-P https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-3-8-in-Drive-14mm-Shallow-12-Point-Metric-Socket/3454918 http://www.sears.com/ace-3-8inch-drive-14mm-metric-12-point-socket/p-SPM12266549819?plpSellerId=Vanguard%20Wholesale&prdNo=34&blockNo=34&blockType=G34 https://www.walmart.com/ip/3-8-Drive-14MM-Metric-12-Point-Socket-Ace-Socket-23613-40A-082901236139/137487007

At those miles a JDM does make sense. Statistically valid data is nearly impossible but I would guess 350,000 mile transmissions aren't the norm or average? I don't mind trying for it, but I'm not sure I'd call it a sure bet! I'll say this - the times I've opted for a JDM engine/trans over repair - I've definitely never looked back a few years later and regretted it. That's more likely to happen if I attempt a repair rather than replacement! Another option might be buying the JDM and swapping the rear extension housing, which can be done in the vehicle so might save you some down time/work/effort and you'd have the insurance of having the spare transmission if you do have future issues. If you wanted to keep the original AT - because sometimes that fun? - maybe look at fluid change history, use (average daily commuter or work/tow/offroad/stuck in mud....?), and even send the ATF to Blackstone or another fluid lab who can do a UOA (Used Oil Analysis) and tell you if the fluid contaminants look normal or high. If that all looks reasonable, you've probably got a good candidate to carry on with. And investigate what the failure is - clutches or Duty C solenoid? Does the FWD fuse work? Do one of those suggest improper maintenance/use in the past (tires, towing, fluid)? If it's just a solenoid wearing out - maybe that's more comforting? You may be able to sell your old trans for $100 and recoupe some costs too if you're in a subaru rich area.

Fronts yes. All 90-99 leg/out front struts swap. Not sure about rears. I installed FWD rear legacy struts in a 1996 AWD legacy sedan and they were fine. About a year or two ago KYB FWD rear struts were dirt cheap on Amazon or something so I used those. You looking for bolt on assemblies? Or are you willing to swap coil/top mounts? Yours has air suspension?

They're XT6 only. If you want a rare part cheap and easy it's likely to take longer. Wait or make a good offer and you'll get a set.

Imdew has one of the best points - replace valve cover gaskets, oil cooler gasket, timing belts, adjust/check valves while it's out and pull the engine. Trans can be the fastest of the two options based on simple math, it has far fewer components to remove - no A/C, power steering, alternator, coolant to drain... But working under the car can be annoying and time consuming, hence my use of the word "can" (and not always or preferably) - crawl under, constant rust/dirt rain showers in your eyes, forget a tool and crawl back out, not enough room so jack it up again for more clearance...etc If you're set up well - dropping a trans can be the fastest route....but pulling the engine is much more forgiving. Remove exhaust, driveshaft, axles, disconnect trans and out it comes and no coolant capture to worry about. Don't get much simpler process wise.

I meant the tensioner *pulley bearing*, not the tensioner itself - just like the idler pulley bearing - same part and replacement process as the idler bearing. Replace both bearings at the same time - same part, same replacement process, both easy. They are known to fail at random mileages but 60k and pre-100k is not at all rare so I just pick 60k as a rough guideline, it's so easy to do and so common a failure it's worth doing.

Get a new key cut - much easier. (or obviously we should say get *two* new keys cut) Dealers can look up the 4 digit key code via the VIN. Might want to call ahead and make sure the person can/knows how and what they want you to bring to verify ownership. You can pop out a door lock cylinder, they're the easiest ones to get to - and read the 4 digit key code off of those. Not sure if a trunk cylinder is easier or also has the code?

nice work. you're going to swap front diffs? backlash and bearing preload setting and all? I've swapped 3.9 or 4.11's into originally equipped 4.44 automatics before, it happens ocassionally, usually driven by transmission swapping/repairing. why did you choose 4.11 in this case?

Turn a rear wheel and count wheel rotations verses rotations of the front diff flange. That will give your ratio. Google Subaru VIN decoder to decipher the VIN. that would be a beastly wiring job, what makes you think it was swapped?

Fairtax had a hard to track symptom that didn't get resolved for a long time. I can't recall but I feel like maybe it was similar. Find that thread and see if it's similar?

assuming its not the rotors....I prefer a thorough brake job with cleaned and regreased slides and new pad clips which are usually built up bent or corroded in the rust belt. They hang pads. Check ball joints, control arm, bolts for play or sheared captive nuts. Do symptoms change at all with speed or turning verses straight ?

Thanks. I forget what hose I went with, I think rubber as it's more cold friendly. I went with some Milton V style or something fittings that have considerably larger internal ID's and flow a lot more air. They're apparently a substantial improvement over nominal fittings even if the hose diameter stays the same.

Yep, done chain and tree and trucks and winches all with excellent results in the front and sides. But that's largely easy to work with corners and radiator crosses not the unibody channels/rails. I've been close to getting the porta powers too! Great stuff. Those bent rails are under the trunk. Pretty sure the trunk is just gonna deform or bend if I push against it. I think that rail needs pulled.

2003 sedan rear ended and the "frame rails" (square channels the tow hooks hang from) are crumpled maybe an inch. Not rubbing tires and car runs and drives fine but be nice to get some of it out. Can I pull part of that out at home like I have many front and side impacts (I've rebuilt a few Subarus including totaled ones requiring pulling)? I wasn't sure if those large square rails will budge outside of a frame rack? I'm fine leaving it so doesn't need to be perfect but wondering if those things even respond at all.

Thanks. I owe you drink (or 3) when I make it to Portland.

*** why are you working on it - was this axle and original pin properly installed or are you addressing an axle that didn't originally have a pin (meaning it could be odd 180 degrees)? If it's an automatic pull the stubby shaft out and do it on the bench. They're simply held in with a circlip and pop in and out by hand (a forceful/appropriately applied hand). Manuals don't come out like that so that's not an option. Another of the endless reasons manuals suck. Sorry couldn't resist the ridiculousness. I have had some that were initially immovable and didn't budge even a tiny amount. They seemed done. Once I had no options and redoubled efforts with better access and tools and put some stank on twisting and extracting they eventually came out after dozens of applied forces and attempts. don't give up too quick though this does look rough. So you have one side out now?

There are no 95 2.5s in the US. 1996 requires premium gas (I imagine related to what GD just said I think 99s have a #5 thrust bearing change. I haven't seen anything to make me think, all things considered, one is more reliable than another in Phase I or Phase II. Phase Is are older which implies more risk for circumstantial reasons. IMO and experience The only way you'd be able to say EJ25D blocks are more reliable than Phase II is if you could guarantee it's never been overheated. Which is hard to do with their propensity to fail under warranty many years ago and how randomly and deceptively they'd overheat. They were exceptionally prone to overheats, multiple overheats, limping a few miles, and multiple repair attempts due to their sneaky initial failure modes. I could buy one with a blown block nearly any day 10-15 years ago. Probably due to overheating. Completely opposite of Phase II which are typically really clear easy and obvious and overheats are easily avoidable. I've never had a shop call me about phase II failures but did in the early 2000's when places couldn't figure out what was going on.

Ahhh got it. no clue what block so probably a later one. 97-99 EJ25D works but 96 doesn't?

16 2-4 brake duty solenoid. Short or disconnection in solenoid driving circuit Check the transmission pan for damage or replacement. The pan is extremely close to the solenoids and the solenoids will crack if it's damaged/dented. If the pan is currently damaged - solenoid or wiring is probably damaged. If the pan looks like it's been replaced (look for new sealant or signs the bolts were removed) - maybe it was previously damaged, pan replaced but solenoids were not eventhough it was damaged. if you're in there - check the other solenoids, partiuclarly those in the same area. here is it's location just inside the transmission pan: http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/baddad1/2011-08-05_130203_capture.png