idosubaru

car is new to me so i'm chasing some existing issues, never seen an EJ do that "stop" thing like this - maybe just coincidence or age.

My guess is it's been repaired before and cobbled together. Every EZ30D I've come across has already needed exhaust repair here years ago, so I'm surprised i's lasted this long. There's no "push-to-fit" unless i'm just forgetting something. you can google image search the exhaust parts and go from there in terms of fitting/placement/etc. How it's secured is a hard question - the stock exhaust is just all bolted together - do you mean the stock exhaust, the existing exhaust (we need to verify it's all stock), or the replacement part (some aftermarket converters are generic and require welding/clamping). What to replace depends on how much rust, personal intent, how long you're going to keep it (because cost tends to be pricey and escalate quickly depending what your'e doing).

The biggest question is why did it sit for a year? A pristine driving Subaru with zero issues rarely sits in a pasture for a year. Subaru's routinely crank right up after sitting for long periods of time. I have no idea how many times I've done it, a year is chump change, I wouldn't even think about it. But yeah gas ages terribly so that's certainly a noteworthy point.

Comp numbers can vary a lot based on quite a few factors. I'd be hesitant to assume the end just based on third party numbers run one time. 100psi EA82 Turbo numbers aren't surprising by themselves. Maybe warrants more questions maybe but "confirmation" and diagnosis, no way.

Hold on! Actually those numbers are not immediately alarming. I don't see an immediate diagnosis form those number and wouldn't assume too much from those numbers alone for a few reasons I'm not going to type on the phone when I have a migraine....ehhh.... Turbo pistons are low compression and numbers are lower. These older Subarus have lower stock psi than more modern Subarus as well. A mechanic may not know that about EA engines. Loss of coolant can be the intake manifold gaskets leaking internally. These engines have a shared coolant and intake port that can bleed over. When you were redoing the ground wire mentioned earlier - did you remove any of the intake manifold hold down bolts? I'm wondering if that ground bolt was previously messed with too which maybe loosened clamping force enough to breech that gasket which is known to occasionally leak?

Hold on! Actually those numbers are not immediately alarming. I don't see an immediate diagnosis form those number and wouldn't assume too much from those numbers alone for a few reasons I'm not going to type on the phone when I have a migraine....ehhh.... Turbo pistons are low compression and numbers are lower. These older Subarus have lower stock psi than more modern Subarus as well. A mechanic may not know that about EA engines. Loss of coolant can be the intake manifold gaskets leaking internally. These engines have a shared coolant and intake port that can bleed over. When you were redoing the ground wire mentioned earlier - did you remove any of the intake manifold hold down bolts? I'm wondering if that ground bolt was previously messed with too which maybe loosened clamping force enough to breech that gasket which is known to occasionally leak?

This isn't the first ER27 I've had do this. Never seen an EJ do it - just coincidence? New battery. Starter replaced in one years ago with no change. Car starts every time just always that quick pause - it's so brief my wife probably wouldn't think about it. I replaced the starter in an earlier one I used to own and no change. Starter? Starting cables? Ignition? 89 XT6

Sedan's don't have the trailer harness.

Water pump depends - smart to replace but very low risk. These water pumps are robust and easily make 200,000 miles. Discounting outliers, the only failure mode is slowly leaking out the weep hole. Very rare, I've never actually seen a failed EJ or EZ water pump, but of course they do rarely happen. If you replace most of us buy Aisin pumps as they are the OEM supplier and ou can buy those elsewhere and use a Subaru gasket - they are robust stamped steel, not flimsy cardboard like aftermarket, clearly better quality when you hold them side by side. Check the timing pulleys by hand - sometimes I'll replace the lower cogged idler - they're only $20 - $30 or something and the most common one to fail. It's likely to be notably more devoid of grease (not as tight) as the others.

It's not really odd because oil questions and discussions are ongoing every day and never ending and have been for a long time. They number of opinions is infinite, so you'll never get a consensus in a billion years. Since it doesn't matter - everyone is right and quantitative evaluation of actual engine longevity and causation verses correlation is sparse. It's like debating if a helmet offers better protection in an elevator or waxing a car makes the engine last longer. An armchair quarterback can say "yes, look at the physical properties involved, and data and formulas" - but practically it's nearly meaningless. The "300,000 mile Subaru secret" is something like this: Change often, repair leaks and engine issues immediately, and run synthetic in certain engines/situations, follow the weights recommended by the owners manual.

Yes. He also goes on to say that for most people this conversation doesn't really matter. Read his other reply. But yes I'm surprised your engine isn't already a door stop if you don't know this by now about the blue filter. I'm totally kidding. Filter matters not on average daily drivers.

$10 - $15 seems too cheap? Are you sure they're Subaru boots? I always just buy the boots. Grease - just use or get a tub of high quality CV and wheel bearing synthetic grease. Bands you want to match whatever tool you have. There's so many different kinds. Buy the tool then the clamps to match. But yeah the Subaru boots are notably higher quality and last longer. Maybe there's other boots that are as good but I haven't seen them. The beck arnleys I've used were fine, not bad, but seem more prone to fail earlier than OEM. And beck arnely can change supplier/quality. There are mechanics that do it and will reboot. Some might be busy and not want to deal with it, that's understandable when you know the quantity of customer diagnosis and dialogue they have to endure. But If they hear and understand you're well advised on subaru axles and reliability as being superior and not just trying to be cheap or tell you your cousin Ben's plumbers suggestion - they'll usually like the idea. It ends up benefiting them as as a better end product - though they do have to make the quantum leap to trusting customer advice - which is terribly hard for them to do sometimes and for good reason. "My dad thinks it's the fuel pump". Eyeroll. What is unfair to mechanics is someone trying to save a buck with too much extra needless work - talking, discussing, providing own parts, phone calls...ends up costing them time and $ to try and save $13. Avoid sounding like those people when discussing.

Take note of the year vehicle you pull the engine from. That will be good to know. Definitely keep the alternator. Aftermarkets suck. Although due to a rare glitch you can get a $70 alternator from Subaru for that car anyway so personally I'd just install a new one from Subaru but $70 yiu might want to keep. Timing belt bits should be fine - what brand components? There are two style timing tensioners. But the tensioner bolts to a bracket so just move your current bracket over to the new engine if it's different. Swap brackets and tensioner. If you got a 96 or earlier engine then it's a noninterference and at least won't destroy the valves if something did happen. The heat can degrade the grease and cause it to expand. So just check them. You can also plan to check them again a little early in a couple years. Which I would recommend anyway if it's a 1997 replacement engine or later which is intereferemce.

Yes. Reboot them all with Subaru boots is the best simple approach More specifically, here are some details and why it's more complicated than you might think: If you're paying a mechanic you probably don't want to risk paying all that labor twice per axle. Then again if you or said mechanic is gonna throw away a much a newer 2000+ outback style outer boot and install a lesser one (see next comment) - then you could be loosing money to replace both. But if grease is old/high mileage it gets watery anyway. 00+ Outback axles (and others) have the new style boots with more durable material and more convolutions. They last much longer than previous boots. If you have those in excellent condition they're perfectly fine to leave after inspecting. If they are old/high mileage they should be regressed though so again - might as well replace If you're buying used axles sometimes it's okay to replace one on a case by case basis, though not often. Usually those boots I just mentioned.

For $750 I'll fly out and do them for you. 1. Get used OEM axles. They're $15-$35 and last the life of the vehicle. Www.car-part.com for cheapest ones in US and maybe CA Reboot them before install Have someone from US ship you a set if you can't find any. 2. Absolutely no need to replace both - zero. That's just stupid...harsh but true. I've rebooted noisy inner axle joints and had 100% success rate so far. They were just split at the boots with runny aged grease. Fresh thick grease and they're all good Wouldn't surprise me if outer joints responded the same way if they're OEM and weren't neglected /abused. But I havent tried outer joints yet so I'm sure that's pointless to someone paying for labor.

I wouldn't bet the farm on these but I measured one in my garage: 33" at timing cover 31" at rear valve cover

Aftermarket absoluteky suck. They fail all the time. Complete waste of time. Originals last the life of the vehicle. www.car-part.com and find some $15 OEM cheap ones. Get one in good condition and run it as is or reboot before jnstall and save the down time. It's much less annoying if you just have everything ready toake it easy. have a box to work over, lots of rags, nitrile gloves and just wipe them down with a ton of rags and throw your gloves away.

They are super easy. 1. Line up drivers side cam - set mark on pulley to 12 noon. It'll be a clear factory molded mark. Ignore any paint marks. *post a picture if you're unsure. 2. Line up crank sprocket mark to 12 noon - should be a mark on the block to align with. (use the correct mark - some have a dot and arrow) *again post a picture 3. Line up the passengers side cam mark to 12 noon. It'll be a clear factory mark not a paint mark. 4. Install belt. And verify correct timing. That's ALL you need to do.

Looks like dual piston caliper bracket with smaller single piston caliper rotor. Jamal's brake thread is a classic resource for stuff like this. Dumb question but just to be sure - the rotor is sitting flush and tall here? With the wheeel off the rotor can can't some and sit artificially lower. What vehicle and are they dual piston calipers? Are both sides like this? If they're different find out what's different - bracket, rotor, caliper, pad. Measure the rotor diameter. What is it?

Thanks guys. I've always owned one (or more) XTs since highschool in 1992. i was too young to know that $3,000 was a deal for a 3 year old meticulous Subaru. All that to say I'm not killing time here, I'll keep this one a long time, probably own more, and want a repeatable and good solution. They're very reliable with basic maintenance and good tbelt maintenance. I'll disassemble further and post back some data and options and look for your input. Thanks!

XT6 are noninterference. They're just EA82s with two more cylinders. Same pistons, rods, bearings, valves, springs, HLAs. All 1996 and earlier Subaru engines are noninterference.

Hahaha I'd have a full timing set in the trunk, install needs to be faster than them finding me. The Moonshine would slow me down. Make a bearing? Wow thanks for the offer! Wouldn't it be better to Fabricate the pulley so that it uses something common? Rather than a custom bearing? It's also a two bearing set up - 2 bearings per pullley. I can't get them to come apart yet. It's a weird 5 piece set up. 1. The outer pulley that rides against the belt 2. Two bearings pressed into that 3. An inner cylindrical sleeve pressed through the IDs of the bearings. 4. The main center post presses into the sleeve. What is funny is if I flip that post (#4) upside down (it has a different OD at the base and top) it would I think press into a 6005 bearing (I can get it to just start by hand but not go in) and the 6005 bearing can equally start to press inside the original pulley. So I could literally build this in my garage right now. I'm just not sure the 6005 bearing would be tight enough to the pulley or the post would be tight enough to the ID of the bearing. Maybe if I knurled or roughened surfaces or something that would promote locking the races in place? And it uses two bearings - I'm not sure how they maintain proper spacing unless they're butted up next to each other. The idlers are smooth and 52mm in diameter. both are identical one is just taller. So I may look into off the shelf options and just bolt them to a post.

Awesome! I got the center post out but they won't come out of the outer pulley without a press. I'll mic them once I get access to a press.

There are no bearing houses within an hour. I'll have to call or travel. The ones I called today don't do automotive bearings (industrial) and said they couldn't help. I'll try a few others. It's the XT6 timing belt pulley/idler bearings. The tensioners use a common 6005 bearing. The other two are this odd ball and very thin - they have a large ID so they're "thin" relative to most bearings.

Funny you say that, I was baffled by that number as well. The NSK tech said he's seen bearing numbers like that before. Who knows maybe it's a Subaru specific bearing just for the XT6 never to be seen again.