idosubaru

Wow that will be interesting. Front diff explosion? Never seen or heard of an auto trans grenading but it's gotta happen sometimes.

Rear passenger is usually the fuel filler neck, they rust out in the northeast. Could also be a metal line rusting through. Those are annoying.

What was wrong with tail housing? grab the front snout or driveshaft and shake it or pry on it with something and see if it has play? It's definitely internal and not external rust it rubbing? Not driveshaft?

Welcome from Subaruoutback land. Change fluids and look for debris. People run fluid through cloth filters like cheese cloth maybe. See what comes out. Noise on acceleration is usually front diff but that's a forward noise? You say it's coming from rearward? Sit in the passengers seat and rear seat and have a listen. Then what?

In engine bay tighten hose clamp. But I think this usually a 6 cylinder issue. Rear fuel filler rusty - replace it. Rear gas lines leaking - repair. The last two are rust driven, vehicles in the rust belt are prone to them. All three are in distinctly different places on the car.

there's some great threads from a year or two ago about them - Milwaukee i think was mentioned a lot from memory....sort of depends on price range too. i'd find that old thread.

this: used OEM Subaru axles and reboot or install and try to get a few years/miles out of the existing boots. Subaru OEM boots last longer than aftermarket boots, particularly on my lifted Subarus. www.car-part.com for cheap used axles aftermarket axles have a high percentage of issues, very common.

The pump was leaking? if you replaced the pump - i'd get it back because it only needs a new cap and oring. the aftermarket fuel pump is questionable, they have a high percentage of issues and are not 10 year/100,000 mile solutions like the original pump. i'd keep the old one as a back up.

We also would have suspected that - but you indicated the coolant change came ***in response too*** an overheating event, so presumably it was overheating before any coolant change/low on coolant. Hopefully that does it and you're done, but just because they worked on it and the symptoms went away at the moment, does not mean it is fixed. The current description still has strong H6 headgasket marks on it. It would not be at all surprising to see another overheating event and confirm headgaskets in the next year or less - H6's can give arbitrary symptoms with huge gaps of time between them, even up to a year or so between symptoms. As to failing water pumps - i've never seen a confirmed case on an online forum, ivansimports said he's seen 1 ever and it overheated within 3 minutes, a seized pump that frees itself most of the time, and only seizes after long drives, sounds like an unlikely starting point.

safety decreases as weight increases - this is true regardless of the somewhat arbitrary tow rating. 1,000 pounds is less safe than 500, even if they're both "below the tow rating". if the tow rating is 1,300 pounds, nothing magical happens from 1,300 to 1,301 pounds, there's no asymptotic catastrophy that happens, it's a mathematic curve - with decreasing safety as weight increases - from 0 and up, not 1,300 and up. Key parameters where being more cautious is crucial: 1. are you towing often? 2. high grades and high heat? 3. during high traffic times? if you're towing steep grades - keep an eye on the engine temps, that's generally the Subaru limiter in towing. if you're towing flat land - that's super easy and can be done all day (same reason I can move a 16' flatbed trailer in a parking lot, but it would kill me trying to push that huge thing up even a small incline. if you're towing often - it's best to closer match the vehicle to the needs. if you're towing one time for a short distance and can easily control when you leave (less traffic, cool outside), it's easy to exceed the limits. there's a wide variet of variables to consider.

system gave you the code, it's best to address the specific code it's giving. that is going to take care of your issue.

$300 - $450 the pictures you took do not look capable of producing 8 ounces of oil loss that is dripping and burning off, but maybe it's leaking/dripping elsewhere too? you should absolutely verify it's not a cam carrier leak - that's a $2,000 - $3,000 repair which as much as you'd hate, you would hate it even more if you did the valve cover gaskets first to no avail.

Post a pic?

multimeter between battery post and terminal to measure milliamps of current draw. you'll have over 100 milliamps. keep pulling fuses until the draw drops significantly. then disconnect everything on that fuse. one hard part about this is that lots of components have an initial power draw when being plugged/turned on/connected to power. so if you disconnect the negative terminal fromt he battery then put your multimeter in place it'll show a huge draw from all the computers coming online. need to connect the multimeter before disconnecting the cable from the battery so the circuit isn't broken during testing.

P0420 is benign Clear them - check again - repeat: which one comes back first and most consistently? Any issues? Idle air controller is related to one of them. Clean and or replace.

Most likely on of the following: Injector Coil pack Timing tensioner is on that side Tight valves - but I think 96 is still HLAs so that would not be possible

Was it wrecked? You mention damage and totaled? Headgaskets are most likely but rule out other things first: Low on coolant/needs burped Clogged radiator Thermostat ( highly unlikely, not bestie as common as they're mentioned.) Previous poster - how long ago did you replace radiator and did you confirm it was bad with a flow test or another test? Sometmes people repair a subaru overheating and the issue comes back later - it just seemed like it fixed it.

I think that's what senses how quickly the car is decelerating.

That's not real common. Google it and find other mentions of it.

all 99 legacy and outbacks are Phase I. Only Foresters, Impreza's, and Legacy's with 2.2's are Phase II. unless it's been converted, swapped, custom...but that's just going to need to be looked at if that's the case.

Headgaskets. What you're seeing it totally normal - particlarly for previously replaced gaskets. More than likely: a. the heads weren't resurfaced or b. OEM Subaru or Fel Pro headgaskets were not used Resurface the heads and use Turbo EJ25 headgaskets. Gloyale and GD are both subaru speciliasts in Oregon that will repair it properly. I forget the name of their shops - Superior Import or Superior Subaru for one them... These dont fail by showing coolant/oil mixing or coolant in exhaust or compressiong tests - those are meaningless data points on these engines. Or if they do fail that badly - it'll be blatantly obvious and probably not worth keeping the engine.

+1 to both of these, if parking, gas, plane tickets are worth the cost then what's $14? i frequently do that as well - create a small divot in the face - then self tapping sheet metal screws carefully in the seal face and use those to pry it out.

If the engine was extensively overheated in 2013 or now that's important to know and could mean the engine isn't even worth keeping. 1. system needs to be full 2. system needs no air in it (properly burped) 3. no leaks 4. fans need to be coming on 5. radiator cap and thermostat need to be operating properly. but yes it sounds very much like a bad headgasket. A. should only use OEM or Fel Pro headgaskets, others routinely fail early (the best gasket for that engine is the EJ25 turbo headgasket but a lot of shops don't know you can use it on that engine) B. the heads need resurfaced Mechanic might need assessed - at most radiator replacement should cost $300 - $150 for radiator and $150 for labor and that's even kind of expensive for what's an easy job. Friend just had a local independent subaru shop install a brand new radiator in his forester for $130. $60 brand new radiator and $60 labor.

I think i'd just do something simple like delta cams, get 200 hundred pounds of weight out of the car, adjust wheel/tire sizes for higher top end or better acceleration. you'd probably end up with more gains that way than what you're talking about. i'd make a distinction - trying to bump power out of an NA engine is futile process. track times will still be slow and barely noticeable from what you have now. but if you've got gobs of time and want a project and to learn - then yeah, you'll enjoy the process! I've done porting, polishing, gasket matching, lightweight pulleys, aftermarket cams, modify transmission shifting, playing with heads, removing the A/C compressors/pulleys....and i've never noticed a difference...or very small differences. the actual 0-60 and quantitative times would be very little difference. but i learned a ton in the process, like what to never waste my time on again now that i'm older and have very limited free time! i have a set of 6 low compression forced induction pistons and 3 spare 6 cylinder engines if i ever need an actual performace bump. but at this point i've gotten further away from that desire.

subaru water pump is unbelievably rare, it doesn't really happen. maybe on an old rusted beater that sat in pure water and salt not running for years and corrded the vanes away but on a 2006 high dollar car with low mileages that's highly unlikely. they ocassionally leak, even that's rare. other than that a subaru water pump failure is so rare it's not even worth diagnosing unless you have some really weird issues....which these aren't weird. the H6's routinely do the temp gauge-varies-by-throttle-input thing and bubbling in the overflow when not overheating - i've seen it multiple times, and i've never seen a failed water pump in 20+ years of Subarus.