idosubaru

sounds very likely. subaru wheel bearings are hard to diagnose besides just sound/familiarity. sometimes they have play, but so far i've never seen that happen. sometimes they get about 50 degrees hotter than the other side so a temp gun can help, but not always. sometimes people use a mechanics stethoscope on a strut coil spring whlie rotating the wheel by hand to check for noise - but doesn't always work. there's no one diagnosis that works every time.

Gagshaha!!!!!!

$80 for a custom alt sounds like a superb price. Did it solve the issue? 800 rpm to charge hahaha that's great!

In addition to what they said There's an oring. Id tighten the backing plate screws too. The 95 oil pump is same as all the others. Get a free FSM they're readily available all over the Internet. I've got like 10 or 15, excellent resources.

Be slightly cumbersome with your COP dangling and noise and drivability but That's an interesting idea LT to pull the plug if one can identify which cylinder. No compression to force exhaust gases in?

I think blue devil is expensive but I guess you can get your money back. On a rust bucket not worth fixing it, that's not a bad fit, consider it a test mule for science. Document it and sell your story to the company.

Great, glad you got it. I'll throw away the tracking number I forgot to send you! ha, right no racing or revving involved but now I want to read the electromagnetism behind self exciting, thanks for hosing my morning. I don't recall how many times i drove it, certainly not an extended time since its weird and unsafe not knowing speed and engine temps. Good to know, I could see this ending bad: "fly to Florida & drive back legacy with no cluster".

I thought the loyale was SPFI, that's why I asked. As said, That means it's not simple. Compare ECU or engine pin outs and see how similar they are just for kicks.

P0733 & P0734 two days ago. 300 mile trip yesterday and nothing then or today. Getting excellent gas mileage, same as ever. What do these gear speed codes mean?

Wow, you're certain? I've driven one back and forth to work in an automatic.

That side faces the installer as seen in a mirror while looking over his shoulder reaching around the engine stand from the back of the engine. Holy smokes need a clear reference: does B face the engine or radiator?

I converted an 1987.5 XT turbo to EA82 non turbo. There was very little different between them, but it's been a long time now and that JDM engine had head gasket, cracked intake manifold, and other bizarre issues so it's vague. It ran and I drove it so I'm assuming the swap was fine but all the other issues were problematic. If it was not compatible I don't think I could have drove it as much as I did. I just laid the two FSM ECU witing diagrams side by side and compared. About the only differences were some turbo specific sensors on the passengers side strut tower area. I'm pretty sure I even ran it first without even swapping the ECU but that was 10+ years ago. I imagine I have old threads about it if you want to find and read those. GL turbo is MPFI, what is the loyale?

Never seen or heard of a hydro locked Subaru. I've seen a couple ran for awhile with bad HGs, they get to a point of using about a gallon per 100 miles and no hydro lock.

Smoker! 180 degrees is hard to imagine nothing stripped? Wow. Best to replace. I have multiple cars so I'm not reliant on one but in some cases I'd be tempted to run it and see what happens just because those EJ22 are so easy to replace anyway. It's hardly any extra work to replace now or later.

Aaahhhhh.....not yours!!?? Sorry to hear that but more miles than the moon is pretty good! Rust is the never ending repair that is well worth it to avoid. time or money investment into something with little value, not a good fit really. Remove tstat, mitigate and try to ride another year? Try craigslist and see if you get lucky? Run brake fluid for coolant like that eccentric former member did for a year or more!? Lol

I'm confused - I've driven multiple 80's and 90's subarus without the instrument cluster installed at all. including a 99 legacy sedan back and forth to work which has the same instrument cluster as yours. And an XT6 and I think my 2002 outback. It sounds like it's an intermittent issue that just happened to resolve itself after the jump just like it did to allow you to drive it the first two days.

Same process - yes. Same part - no. Fronts are beefier and harder Compressing the springs but physically easier to remove and install. Mark top strut mount bolt head orientation on strut mount and carry that over to new strut when reinstalling to retain alignment and you won't need an alignment. Align top bolt to exact same orientation. Remove wheel Remove 3 top 12mm nuts Remove 2 lower bolts R&R struts. Reinstall Done

I would replace the bottom radiator hose, they are by far the most aged looking in excellent condition one owner higher mileage Subarus. The outside will be visibly deteriorated and weathered while the top hoses look great. And it makes sense, it sees the most varied conditions: debris, water, salt, and any fluids that make they're way down.likely exaggerated by salt or cars with no undercover. That's the only one I'd consider replacing and maybe the oil cooler. You could do a quick search and see if any hoses seem common on nice one owner EJ25s. You might want to replace that first since it's easy and highest risk (albeit low). After seeing what condition it is in you might not feel so inclined to replace every hose possible or you might do it sooner! Hose failure is so rare it wouldn't surprise me if the risks associated with replacing every single hose are about the same as leaving the originals on a sub-100k subaru in grest condition. After the lower rad hose, oil cooler coolant hoses if equipped. Then heater core, ATF, and top radiator. Last - throttle body and fuel lines. if engine rubber component degradation is a concern, there are injector orings and If equipped might as well do the crossover orings and/or valve solenoid orings too and oil pressure sender. Yes there are Coolant throttle body, bypass, fuel line hoses, ATF (if equipped), and others. Lots of hoses. H6 have one fuel line hose clamp issue that's known but not common even still. Tighten the clamp is the fix on those.

I think just a gear ratio code came back today but I could be wrong, I'll check for sure next time it lights up. I changed the ATF screw on filter tonight for kicks.

Thanks guys! I would need to wait for the code to be set permanently to check continuity and resistance right? I clear them and they don't return right away so it seems like they may test fine? When I clear the codes they take a day to come back. Just like fairtax guessed, A trans code or two, no crank code last two times. Can I monitor that torque converter solenoid somehow?

Floor it on the interstate to check for chain noise under load. Good point, Most people wouldn't want to get into a car with engine noises. Chain noise is rare and I think only the early years like 01 and maybe 02. It is also benign and I don't think any damage or issue has ever occurred because of it. So if you're a gambler type you might pint out the noise and offer another $500 less LOL

That VIN is for a 2005 - where did you pull that number from? Rebuilt cars can have VIN numbers from other vehicles on them. ? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Auto-Trans-Filter-BECK-ARNLEY-044-0367-fits-09-12-Subaru-Forester-2-5L-H4-/321999019967?fits=Model%3AForester&hash=item4af8a31fbf:g:XRgAAOSwvUlWs5Dy&vxp=mtr

a screwdriver and knife will allow you to trim off 1/2" - 1" of the ends and reinstall the same hose which is pretty common (as "common" as hose failure can be considered) since degradation frequently happens around the nipple/clamp/exposed end of the hose. If you experience an ATF leak you can simply find the inlet and outlet hardlines off the trans - usually next to each other and trim a piece of existing hose appropriately to loop around and attach them together - thereby bypassing the cooler or external filter (if equipped). obviously you don't want to drive long like that but fine for temporary light duties. some appropriate adhesive (tape) would allow some extra limping around time to with some failures. heater core (access) and oil cooler (large socket, awkward underneath access) hoses and the ATF lines closest to the trans are the hardest ones to check visually and replace, so those would be a good first place to start replacing hoses.

they're pretty simple. for that price i wouldnt' look for much more than headgaskets and general condition - how much maintenance it would need for the next 100k: plugs, VCG's, axle boots, brakes, rusty exhaust, basic stuff. some don't have a FWD fuse - like VDC H6's of the era. i don't think VTD equipped vehicles have a FWD fuse. if not, those really dont' develop torque bind, so i've been told, and i've never seen it happen anyway. headgaskets - look for signs of overheating - the H6's are very sneaky when they first start to fail. they can go months between overheating episodes and initial failures may only show themselves under very specific conditions (a/c on, interstate travel, idling, etc). i consider the seller the most important part of the equation: dealer, private owner, and how long have they owned the vehicle. H6's are more prone to getting traded in/sent to auction/sold - so presumably a higher percent of for-sale H6's have headgasket issues than those on the road. i prefer private sellers who have had the car awhile. look for signs of cooling system work - hoses, tstat, caps, clamps, brand new coolant, overflow tank condition. anything out of the ordinary there suggests someone was chasing something - maybe overheating, maybe something benign. signs of coolant splatter/spilling around the radiator cap, battery tray and that front drivers side corner of the vehicle. let it idle a long time with the A/C on high. while it's idling look in the coolant overflow for bubbles (NOT the radiator while it's hot). bubbles = bad. interstate travel would be ideal. look for overheating during idling/interstate. a radiator coolant level check before starting it and after cooling down after the test drive would be a good check but time consuming and cumbersome.11

I'm sure he pulled it. Most people do. Real simple - just find a thread of someone that's done it (raises hand) and look for their recommendations on how to do it in the car if that's what you want. It is possible - but cumbersome and requires more steps/work to gain the access needed and harder to properly prep the block.