idosubaru

delete post, can't edit title No they are not the same

Thanks Dave, double checked all bearings - one is in fact loose, the others are all tight. By the time I buy that bearing, press the bits, get thrust washers/shims....I might as well just get a complete good rear housing assembly. I've found a couple core transmissions for $75 and $120, they're a couple hundred miles away so if I can find a way to get those I think I'll go that route. Problem is I want this car back on the road quick for summer travels, it's our usual daily driver wagon with more space/hitch.

yep that trans would work, but distance. theres one a couple hundred miles away im trying to get.

fairtax, the front diff was noisey for 10,000 miles until something failed. car would stall immediately when put in any gear.

Fairtax. diff not repaired, will tear down later. im swapping the rear extension housing from trans w/failed diff onto another trans with a good front diff. Dave, the bearings all look great with zero play. i assume its obvious if theyre bad? stopped by Subaru to look at their diagram, ill need to take assembly with me to make sense, looks different than 2005 FSM...closest i have ATM.

There is a thrust washer, #11 in the link above. It got a notable work out. Not broken or mangled but the surface is roughed up. That same thrust washer also wore a little into the gear (the gear on part #12) it rides up against. Does that change things? No, bearings and gears all look good. The thrust washer mentioned above and rear most shim need replaced, other than that I don't see anything visually. I wonder if the rear extension housing is hosed. I'm unsure how to reach down into that housing and mic such an awkward measurement. I'm in the process of tracking down some FSM stuff for it.

I think play from a failing front diff caused the damage in the rear extension housing of my 2002 H6, VDC transmission. The main question is the area of the shim at #17 in this diagram. washer and shim 11 and 17 were severely damaged. http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/attachments/problems-maintenance/26631d1356925701-5eat-2wd-problem-outback-xt-vtd-exploded.gif At #17, a couple of large, thin, circular rings of aluminum came out when i pulled it apart right there at that shim. It is as if that shim was either torn apart or it may have grooved the part of the transmission it rests against. *** If the extension case itself was warn in that way at #17 - does that mean it will have too much play if i just replace the shim? I'm wondering if i can just replace the washer at #11 and the shim at #17? Seems like I should just replace the entire VDC if i can find one.

agreed, verify source first. Rockford and others make replacement usable. Rockford is pricey. It requires a bit of a custom installation, though it comes with directions (which i think i've posted pictures of before on here, subaruxt.com or another subaru forum). but it's not terribly difficult at all. an automotive machine shop may do it or a driveshaft shop will for sure.

"how" long is arbitrary. it's not as if every failing wheel bearing reaches 100 decibles at 5 months, 4 days, 11 hours, 34 minutes, and 12 seconds....or every one fails catastrophically by 13 months....etc. having seen it before, once it gets enough play the tone ring and ABS sensor gets damaged/destroyed and triggers the ABS light, by then I wouldn't consider it having much time left before more ominous things start happening.

Shops charge $1,200 - $1,500 for headgasket only. Price goes up as more parts are replaced. It's wise to do valve cover gaskets, timing belt kit, while it's all apart anyway. How much someone else charges you is dependent on a lot of factors. If that someone was very well versed in Subaru's and knows what they're doing, which parts to use, and has done 100 of them before - pay close to shop prices and you're getting a great deal. If they aren't really familiar with Subaru's, and have only done an EJ25 twice, I wouldn't be paying them top dollar. $300 - $700 labor....it's hard to put a price tag on side jobs. ***Why are you asking? Do you not trust the person? Are you trying to pinch pennies? Let's back up and assess your situation: 1. that engine, if it's the original head gaskets, leaks start out very slowly and get worse over a long period of time, like 50,000 miles. so if it just started or isn't leaking very much, you've got a long time to plan out your repair, literally you can wait years as long as you monitor fluid levels. 2. If it's leaking coolant only and not too bad, install Subaru coolant conditioner that's required for your vehicle. $2.50 from Subaru and it often stops initial coolant leaks. 3. If it's leaking oil, there's nothing you can do but replace. If you replace it - use Subaru only headgaskets, Subaru's coolant conditioner, and resurface the heads. do not have the heads pressure checked, mic'ed, magnafluxed, etc - that's all a waste of time on those particular heads. Resurface only. there's a thread on this forum how to DIY that, it's actually really easy.

when doing a franken motor you're already pulling the heads - so installing a cam isn't much extra work. when doing an engine swap, the engine isn't actually coming apart so adding cams is a bit more additional work. though new timing belt, valve covers makes sense before engine goes in...so that may be getting done anyway.

I'm replacing a 2002 H6 VDC transmission. Under the transmission pan is a pipe that goes from passengers to drivers side and is under the ATF strainer. The donor H6 VDC transmission does not have this pipe. The FSM doesn't mention this pipe, nor give torque values for the two bolts holding it in place. Subaru's opposed forces, seems to show it but doesn't give a part name or number. I attached a picture of opposed forces diagram with the pipe boxed in red. I'm going to install the 2002 pipe/hardware in the donor transmission. But I'd like to know - either there are some transmission differences or it was removed prior. This donor transmission pan was dented and a couple solenoid connectors cracked - i replaced all those. There's a pressed in fitting that the pipe in question slides/pressed into - that fitting is tightly pressed into the transmission and was also missing. I could envision someone forgetting or removing the pipe, but not that fitting. I couldn't find any photos of H6 trans trans but these two show an earlier gen with pipes and one without...weird. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/p0740-and-p0743-obd-codes-and-fixed-em-198117.html?t=198117 http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/attachments/gen-1-1995-1999/64514d1388634087-questions-97-auto-vbremoval012.jpg

all 1997 and up Subaru EJ engines are interference. that's a 1999 Phase II, definitely inteference.

rebuilt titles aren't a big deal. research, inspect, look for serious damage, proper repairs, get as much info as possible on it, etc.

what you're missing is that people pay $4,000 because there's no cheap/easy/effective way to do what you're asking. if it were as easy as you think, they wouldn't cost $4,000. the exhaust work could run $1,000. done right, it would cost more than $4,000. turbo, custom exhaust and/or crossmember work, install turbo pistons, higher flow injectors, and an aftermarket controller (ECU), EGT monitor, wide band O2. forced induction engines have low compression pistons, non-turbo engines have high compression pistons. forced induction and high compression pistons don't play nice. that's what you're asking "can i put a turbo on my high compression short block?" yes - but it's a very risky and power is limited. you can put a turbo on it and run very low boost, the stock ECU and injectors can handle a little more flow. be careful though, a big KABOOM isn't far away.

yep, you're on it, that would be the best approach.

not worth it. you can use the DOHC wiring if you bolt the DOHC heads to the SOHC block. SOHC block, DOHC heads, intake, and wiring...but then you're loosing the advantage of the SOHC and might as well use the craptastic EJ25 DOHC in the first place. i'd get the SOHC, the wiring harness shouldn't be that hard to come by. www.car-part.com if you were convinced of the EJ22 in the first place, i wouldn't deviate from that plan. it's 100X better engine and neither are performance mongrel engines. since EJ25's blow all the time, they are very easy to sell. if for some strange reason you have "cheap EJ25's", then just sell them, use the cash to buy an EJ22, and pocket the remainder. sell EJ25 for $500, buy EJ22 for $300...or in your area it would be sell EJ25 for $1,000 and buy EJ22 for $600. better engine, make money...no brainer. if you have TWO cheap EJ25's available - sell them both.

Subaru says no replacement unless damaged. It is not like an engine filter, they cost like $20 - $30 each and basically have another screen in them, the fluid having already gone through the one filter/screen in the pan that's still in place like older trans. They eventually moved them a few years later into the drivers side fender well rather than side of the transmission. the people i've seen that have cut them open before haven't found anything in the screens.

99 legacy EJ22 99-01 impreza EJ22 the only way to use an older EJ22 is to bolt your existing heads to an older EJ22 block. at 300,000 miles, i wouldn't do that without replacing the valve stem seals and grinding the valve. a machine shop can easily do that.

hands down the best for practicality, reliability, and inexpensive high mileages - 1990-1994 legacy/impreza. most people go with 1995-1999 because they're fairly reliable but look a lot nicer and have better trim options. EJ25's suck, they have lots of headgasket issues and the 1996-1999 EJ25 is an ominous motor for specific reasons, i'll avoid the diatribe about it here but i've spoken about it before if you want to search. 1997 and later EJ22's are interference. 1996 and earlier are not - so if you're going to skip timing belt jobs, and not do well with maintenance, you're better off getting a 1996 or earlier EJ22 or EJ18 (impreza only motor). if you do a complete and proper timing belt job then it doesn't really matter. the best thing to do is buy a rust free southern or western 1996-1999 Outback, GT, or LSi with a blown EJ25. they're easy to find because they have so many issues. Then swap in the much more reliable EJ22 or EJ18. those engines run forever and are cheap and easy to maintain. then install the $100 gates timing kits off ebay or amazon. but if you can't get into engine work - get an EJ22 engine for sure. way more reliable and cheaper and easier to maintain.

all 1999 EJ25D's in Legacy and Outbacks are plug and play, bolt in - the same engines as 1996-1998 EJ25's, so there's absolutely no difference when swapping an EJ22. there's no "early" or "late". i can tell by the picture yours fits that. 1995-1998 EJ22 is plug and play. 1990-1994 will require a 1995-1998 EJ22 intake manifold to plug and play. single port exhaust EJ22's will require the ypipe to go with it. EGR doesn't matter for swapping - the car runs fine no matter what you install, i routiney and purposefully install non-EGR engines in because there's fewer parts, but in states with emissions/inspections or if you're anal and can't stand check engine lights you'll have to tread differently. if the EJ22 doesn't have EGR you'll have a check engine light with no way to work around it. i've used a non-EGR intake manifold, engine side wiring harness, installed a non-EGR ECU, and cut the EGR wire - and you still get a check engine light. there must be some complex wiring on the body side that triggers the ECU into thinking it's an EGR equipped vehicle. no one has figured that out yet. you can work around the EGR issue if you get an engine without EGR but an intake manifold that does have EGR.

i was going to suggest a few things which it may be besides lower end knock...but you already verified it with metal shavings. that block is worthless. like i said earlier, those engines are so robust and easily found, they run forever with few issues so there's zero demand and they're cheap, an expensive rebuilt or something is almost pointless. $150 - $300 should net you one. any 1990-1994 EJ22 will work 1995 - 1998 EJ22 will also work if you swap exhaust manifold and install the 1992 intake manifold onto the engine Any 1990 - 1996 EJ18 will also work - install your 1992 EJ22 intake manifold right on top the Ej18, install Ej22 knock sensor in the bung, and it's a bolt in-plug and play swap. www.car-part.com or USMB classifieds

2003 Outback H6 When I remove the radiator cap, a quick split second burst of coolant spits out of the overflow tank where the rubber hose goes into it. The radiator is a few cups low and the overflow tank is overfull. So coolant is getting pushed into the overflow but not sucked back in the radiator. New Subaru radiator cap. No other symptoms. Headgasket? Guess i'll test for exhaust gases in the coolant, a compression and leakdown test is out of the question with those annoying spark plugs.

get a used engine. those engines are one of Subaru's most reliable engines they've ever built. this means it's easy to find a used one in great shape for cheap that will easily last 100,000+ miles. there's two best sources: classified section of a forum like this one www.car-part.com you may wan to first try and do some diagnostics. is the *crank* truly wobbling or is it just the crank pulley? it's probably just the crank pulley that's wobbling, replace it with a used one. with that much visible play it would destroy the crank seals and puke oil everywhere....doesn't sound like it's doing that, so probably just the pulley and the engine is fine. if the oil is overfilled and there's a strong gas smell - then maybe the injectors are dumping too much fuel/leaking. smells like fuel and gas is getting into the oil and overfilling it over time. doesn't do good things to the lower end bearings. the knocking sounds bad - could be something else.

auto trans interchange is a really hard thing to ascertain, you're unlikely to get much info on it. i usually google auto trans swaps and try to find someone that has done something close to what i'm trying to do. 1998 may be Phase II transmission, so tread carefully as there were a few changes. there are different gear ratios too - your 1993 will probably be a 3.9 trans, so you'll need to match that. there are only three auto options for 4 cylinders - 3.9, 4.11, and 4.44, with 4.44 being only for 2.5 liter engines. if you get a 4.11 or 4.44 transmission you can work around it by simply swapping the rear diff to match.