idosubaru

443 846 is my cell phone, i'll give the last 4 digits in a moment. if you can, text them to me and i'll put them up. 5771 is last 4 digits

bummer, but good job tracking it down to the issue at hand. with AT's the load of the vehicle is not on the engine like it is with an MT in gear. with an MT the timing belt could get loaded in shipment, while in park, towed, poor shifting (downshifting 3 gears while doing a burnout) etc - it's like putting an impact gun on your timing belt. can't happen with an AT but you can install that guide if you want. though subaru's don't jump time without reason. no need or quality value in replacing the headbolts, it would be a false sense of security. headbolt replacement is based on the type of headbolts used, TTY (Torque to Yield) headbolts. Subaru doesn't use those kinds of headbolts so you'd be installing the exact same thing you removed. it'll save you a couple minutes cleaning the threads though. Cars that do use those kinds of headbolts *must* have them replaced as the bolts get deformed during installation. not so with Subarus. I'd definitely be installing the multi layer gaskets, i wouldn't use Subaru's single layer.

EJ22 swaps are an easy and inexpensive repair for the common Phase I EJ25 headgasket issues. Basically the answer to your question is the same reason you make the decisions you do - time and money. EJ22 swap is ***zero*** work (other than a normal engine replacement). Turbo swap is a ton of work. I have no interest in making a repair EJ22's = $200, Turbo engines = $1,000+ If someone is paying a shop to repair blown EJ25 DOHC Phase I headgaskets: $1,200 for new headgaskets on the EJ25...or.... $300 to install a used EJ22 ($250 for engine + $350 for install - $300 sell the old EJ25). A more reliable repair for half the cost. Do most NZ vehicles have the Phase I DOHC EJ25? How many engine swaps have you done - non-turbo to turbo? Turbo engines are far more expensive than non-turbo engines.

that's awesome. what would it take to see a picture of this beast, i'd love to see those 7 seats! folks have done complete custom builds utilizing other suspension, hopefully they'll chime in. you may want to post in the Offroad section of this forum.

i'd use the EJ25 turbo headgaskets, that's what some folks are doing. they fit, and the turbo Ej25's do not have headgasket issues. *if* that is at all due to a better headgasket i'm all for it. Subaru headgaskets were failing up to 2009 and 2010 (foresters)...so I'm not that interested in Subaru's offering for the non turbo headgaskets, though they're certainly better than years ago. the "sandy" timing pulley probably caused or sped up the breaking of the belt. they loose grease and then begin to run hotter - it is heat that eventually kills things. resurface the heads yourself, it's super easy. i'm so glad i don't have to drive to a shop to drop off and pick up and worry about hours, time, questions, wait in line...saves a lot of time and it's super easy: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/122588-diy-head-resurfacing-or-post-apocalyptic-machine-shop-techniques/

4WD and 2WD have different mounting points - 2WD struts I believe will "lift" the car higher because they mount lower and are therefore longer struts...or something like that. if it's not that maybe the front stuff is so tired it's setting an inch or two low?

have you driven it yet? it'll settle some once driven.

you can resurface heads yourself. it's actually really easy, check out GD's write up on this forum. excellent results. these heads don't really warp but they'll have high and low spots.

glad you got a good dealer to work with, that's a commodity. i wouldn't like the odds either. if you end up replacing with something else, could swap them under warranty to keep as back ups, give away, sell, donate back to the shop since you like them . "free" - don't accept money to work on cars. I diagnose, they buy the parts (or the car if helping them get a car), I do the work. i have never charged for a repair, as a rule I avoid it.

the tightening thing doesn't make sense in my head either - but it does seem to work. most frequent use i've had for that is on older generation intake manifolds which are notorious for shearing off and there's no access to get penetrating oil to them. i generally avoid heat on those - that makes them shear quicker on the intake manifold. continuously work them and they shear...work them just a few turns, come back later, let them cool down, work a few more, come back later....work a few more...at least for intake manifold bolts that's more successful. maybe depends on alumninum, metal, length, installation, what's exposed, how it's rusted, etc.

that sounds like average rust. doesn't sound like you've seen a really bad one yet. there's a similar method to your tool, pic's are online - wedge a socket between the knuckle and control arm...and it does the same thing. nut draws ball joint out. unless it's really bad rust - then the bolt turns, threads strip, shear off... really bad ones i've seen would never come out by simple twisting or tool. with knuckle removed and dozens..if not a hundred....blows to that same ridge with huge hammer/chisel the ball joints don't budge and the ball joint just begins to break away and shatter into small pieces. there's no way i could apply twisting force with my hands anywhere near what that chisel can do after a 100 impacts of a massive hammer. it's a huge investment in time to chisel them out piecemeal and it sucks. but truthfully most aren't like that - most are just annoying and take some extra grunt, tool, etc - it's only one every dozen or few that are that bad, so most people probably haven't seen them. but when I do...it's a PITA because i don't plan for it. i'm surprised you're not seeing rust of this sort being in maine..coastal? odd. we have it down here that's for sure and i'm not under the impression that our area is as bad as others since they don't use as much salt here. it's awful and no tool will get those ball joints out. maybe a blue wrench if you want to test the bearings.

pull the heads and install a used set, that's the best way to go. look here, find some locally, craigslist - $75 - $200 for a set of used heads ready to go. www.car-part.com as long as the pistons aren't damaged (which i've never seen yet), yo'ure golden. that engine isn't hard to do with the engine in the vehicle. remove top trans mount (one nut) and two lower engine mount nuts (2 nuts) and you can jack the engine up a few inches giving plenty of room to do the heads with the engine insitu. 3 nuts = easy. doing a compression test on a broken timing belt engine is suicide. it can't build compression properly with a broken belt, nothing is working properly, whatever results you got would be meaningless. a leak down test may show something if you properly aligned things first. i've seen lots of bent valves...over half...so yeah lots can get dinged.

i think it's "recommended", not required...or that varies by year, so check. i don't think ethanol makes any difference at all - where did you hear that? in any event my 02 and 03 H6's...and many others...have 210,000 and 170,000 miles and run perfectly on the *cough* killer 87 octane and ethanol blends i feed it. i've given it high octane non-ethanol blends when towing and noticed no difference.

boo on you! you're supposed to have a good trick for me on that one!!!! so you've seen those too...those are painfully slow and tedious.

there is hope!!! penetrating oil doesn't always get it for me either, but it's only now and again that they're really bad. it's just hard when it's random, like you do'nt expect it. even the $20 a can YIELD or other stuff. some stuff is so rusted and compromised the head bolt is round thereby rending sockets useless and the shafts are equally decrepit. bolts are seized in bushings like rear suspension or older gen control arms, ball joints are rust welded into knuckles are probably my least favorite, i've seen those so bad that no trick online gets them out. remove knuckle, bash joint, drill out the remaining top all integrated into the knuckle from corrossion. no way those would budge with anything...or you'd have to heat the knuckle up i'm not sure i'd want that around the bearings. granted those are one in a couple/few dozen that are that bad, no where near the norm, but i've seen it that bad even on 8 year old Subarus which are pretty new and in great shape....you just never know.

i'm going to try to find someone to do it for me I believe. i've done rear diffs before but i think front diffs are more problematic, exacting, and less forgiving.

adventuresubaru has a good point - maybe your dealer knows how often those axles fail, if they're under warranty or worth getting a new pair installed? copy, i thought you meant Subaru. ha ha! i fix cars for free for college students and help find mechanics/advice as needed. mechanics here welcome parts if the reasoning is a better repair option or they don't have to source some obscure part. when people start trying to save a buck here and there and complaining at results...that's when eyes roll. if they charge more labor for the boot install and you get a cheaper axle it may be roughly even on both sides financially. Uninterested?? I usually get a 'slap on the wrist' for even thinking that I'm going to steal someone else's job as a mechanic! :-)

I have a bad front diff in my daily driver H6 VDC (i screwed it up LOL) I have an H6 trans with a good front diff I want to swap onto it. Is there a way to "retain" the current backlash by installing the complete gear set and using the same number of turns for the side retainers? Or am I stuck with the FSM process I wouldn't possibly get right? Is setting backlash fairly similar across other vehicles such that other mechanics or transmission shop could do it?

left/right/center might be the most helpful/important question. maybe drive it slowly past someone (you like LOL) on both sides? Assuming speed related is drivetrain and centrally located: inner axle joint or front differential ,or possibly still heat shields/exhaust leak. i would expect these noise to go away complete in neutral or coasting, but it can vary. how long has it been doing this? have the axles ever been replaced? aftermarket axles are notoriously problematic and a standard inner DOJ axle symptom is noise under throttle/acceleration/load. exhaust leaks or heat shields make clicking noises and can be semi-central sounding. if it's engine related then it wouldn't be "speed" related and you should hear it while idling with the hood popped standing in front of the engine have you tried that yet? just in case it's not centrally located: Sorry to ask again but all we have is words unfortunately: you said "diminished" and "the sound drops" - so it's definitely there, just not as loud when coasting? any noise revving the engine in park? any noise when coasting down a hill in neutral? left/right would suggest wheel bearing or brake related (rust, hanging caliper, pad, bent dust shield - all really simple) front rules out carrier bearing and driveshaft.

check your transmission fluid level immediately. if an automatic transmission check the front diff and ATF levels. an auto with very low ATF will click. my first guess is simply heat shields or exhaust leak. it can sound like a ticking at first and they are very common. second guess would be rusty rotors/brakes - just a very small bit of rust and click every rotation as it strikes something and a simple bent dust shield or out of adjustment rear ebrake can reduce the already small clearances. 1. front, rear? 2. left, right? 3. all speeds? (or until road noise drowns it out) 4. if you're coasting down a hill does it go away completely or just not as loud? 5. any change around right or left turns? 6. does it change when braking?

every wheel sensor i've seen you replace the sensor and you're done. hopefully that takes care of those other phantom codes too. i've only ever attacked one ABS code at a time so i haven't seen multiples but i'd assume it's a good approach like ECU or TCU to address the most obvious/common one first, clear, and go from there. sounds like you're on the right track. well done getting it out without the bolt shearing off!! high five!

I've never seen Subaru replacements, that i knew of, is FEQ what Subaru installed or did you take them to be installed? If they supplied them do you know if they also have the green inner cups? not interested in rebooting OEM axles?

reviews/comments online are scarce, they look/sound like a new/unknown product, i wouldn't consider them an option. rebooting used Subaru OEM axles isn't an option? they will have lower success rate than OEM, but if it's a 60% then it's still a 6 out of 10 chance of not having any issues, which is a pretty good. that's why you'll see people say "ah these were good axles". but if you are doing enough axle work you'll get really tired of redoing 4 out of 10 axles. if you're okay doing the job multiple times then they're a good fit. warranty isn't an indicator of quality, some lifetime warranty parts are very low grade and often inexpensive. the offroad communities love submerging their alternators and starters in mud and just exchanging them forever. LOL

They do break but not often, particularly at this low mileage. They have a time limit too - 10 years i believe too which you're past. Install a complete timing kit - pulleys and tensioner. I would not expect the originals to last to 200,000 miles, they're devoid of grease by then. I would replace those before a water pump, the EJ pumps last a long time and in the odd event it has issues you'll usually get warning signs like slight leakage from the pump. Amazon had gates kits for only $100 recently, someone posted a link here. Ebay kits are $140 - $200. If the cam or crank seals/oil pump leak then you'll be paying the timing belt labor (several hundred dollars) all over again to replace a $5 seal, so that's why those are usually done at the same time to ensure you make 200,000 miles without re-paying that tbelt labor again. If the oil pump is reseald it should be removed and the rear backing plate screws tightened, not a big deal but i can almost guarantee that one or more are loose, i don't think i've ever removed one yet without a loose screw. Subaru seals should be used, they're higher quality than some aftermarkets. But if they're bone dry they're likely to last a long time and as mentioned the Subaru seals are excellent quality and capable of a lot miles, though individual experience varies wildly of course.

aftermarkets fail at completely random mileages and in all sorts of different ways. i've seen them blow to pieces at mile number 1. the best option is to never use aftermarket axles. you can google it or search any subaru forum and read for weeks about aftermarket axle issues. EMPI's had good reviews but folks have posted failures of those too. get used Subaru OEM axle and reboot it and you're done for 100,000+ miles. i do this *all the time*, it's so simple. www.car-part.com if you need a 99 or earlier legacy/outback/impreza/forester axle i could ship you two without boots you can reboot them yourself if you can't find them locally and shipping isnt' brutal. you can use later 2001+ axles on earlier vehicles if you knock the tone ring off the end - they have better outer boots with more convolutions that last a long time too. if you can get one in good shape you don't need to replace the outer boot - it's likely to last a long time. MWE (now FW enterprises or somethign - he changed the name) - just more effort and cost, return cores.