idosubaru

we use www.car-parts.com all the time, there are some canadian listings there. there's a very popular JDM supplier in Philly, JDMdepot that i know some subaru peeps use/suggest. if you took it to a scrap yard, how much do you want for it? they'll generally tell you how much they'll give you over the phone, depending on the yard. many scrap yards are simply the $X per hundred pounds formula, just call and ask. a junk yard will generally give more for a vehicle with any value (which would be yours). down here you'd get about $250 at a scrap yard and $500 at a junk yard or the rare scrap yard willing to part it a bit and pass along the higher values (conveters, electric motors, etc) to you. best bet is to find a place that's willing to let you know that the engine came out of a wreck and the engine wasn't damaged in the collission. a wrecked car strongly implies the engine was perfectly fine when the wreck occurred. be sure to replace the two serpentine belt pulley bearings right away, they fail all the time. the bearings are only $5 each and takes 15 minutes to knock out. or $20 each for an aftermarket equivalent (but you'll need a part number, they won't be able to look it up, but some subaru folks have matched it, i can post it later). or much more from the dealer. they fail so often i consider them immediate maintenance on anyone i know that gets one and check them every 50k or so. H6's do occasionally have headgasket issues, finding out your warrant on a used engine would be good. usually 3 - 6 month warranty is an average for used car dealers around here.

actually i'm pretty sure it's mostly isolated to 99...a very few 98 and 00 bleedovers, but i think it's nearly entirely a 99 issue like the speedometer head too.

the tube is not to get stuck like that, but it does happen, they can be time-welded on there like crazy. the sludge you mention is metal particulates stuck to the plug but that's normal wear, they all have that even ones that go 300,000 miles without issue. if you got it for a good deal or lot (who got it unknown from an auction) then there are good chances the previous owner dumped the car because of the issue. do follow up and let us know how it goes. if you dump it with a blown trans, let me know the 99 SUS is one of my fav subarus.

like said, it's only intended for later Phase II EJ25 engines (00+ and some 99's) with a very specific failure that they all have in nearly the same spots - external headgasket breach. it's unlikely to do anything for the EJ22 which doesn't leak unless it's been overheated/run hot. but for $2 a bottle from Subaru, who cares either way, you don't have anything to loose as long as it's properly used.

check fluid level and like he said drain/check for chunks. this just happened to me this year, i got 5,000 - 10,000 miles on it (i'd have to check odometer, i know when it started) before it got really bad, was making some noises, and now won't go into drive at all.

Blown fusible links, I had a blown ECU once due to the same thing. both easy fixes.

folks have used the EJ25 turbo headgaskets on the non- turbo blocks due to presumably the turbos not having head gasket issues. 11044AA642 is the part number, verify that it will work on your application first. google it or something.

is your 99 the same as US 99's? i would think it is because later models have a completely different set up anyway and there's no bracket on the strut... i just did two of these this year and it didn't require disconnecting any brake lines. i forget off the top of my head but is it just a bolt that holds the brake hose to the bracket? on older generation subaru's where the hose did pass through a fixed/welded bracket, everyone would simply: 1. remove the clip holding it in place 2. cut a small notch in the shortest distance of the bracket 3. bend it out of the way 4. swap struts 5. install the same way and bend the "tab" from the cut back in place so you can install the clip that holds the brake line. but i don't recall doing that to the two legacy rears i did this year (a 1996 and 1999)

if it's just on flat panels it's easy, cut it out and patch it. i just spot weld some pieces of metal in there. then grind and finish. not that hard, doesn't look perfect but easy enough to color match so it doesn't look totally silly and...rusty. but - when it's in seams, folded, pinched together and severe - it's nearly impossible to really get it all. so depending how bad it is on the inside and hard to reach areas you might be better off just considering it a 3 year car and go from there.

cool chux! maybe put the engine you like the most in the car you enjoy the most (the brat?)? who cares what engine the loyale has as long as it does what you need? uberoo seems wise...which engine will be most robust offroading? i carry people, gear, and tow often...i'd want the EJ18 in whichever vehicle will be hauling more weight. or if miles/condition of engines differ substantially - maybe put the "worst" engine in the brat if you won't use it much or put many miles on it or have reliability concerns with the daily driver. i've wanted to put an EJ18 in an XT for a long time, Huck says it could be a combination for some excellent gas mileage. curious what that loyale would do. EJ18's were cheap as dirt a few years ago, zero demand, might be able to sell the EA81 (and EA82) for the same cost as an EJ18 if having the same motor/wiring in both was any aid. mine had 80 or 100k and was only $150 already pulled with a warranty off www.car-parts.com, i've put 60,000 on it so far.

+1 VSS

yep that 96 is DOHC needs that "build a tool one piece at a time" method. if his 98 was an EJ25 then it's also DOHC - all EJ25's from 1996-1998 are DOHC - and all 99 Legacy/Outback EJ25's are also DOHC EJ25's. removing valve covers helps in newer H6 engines, but unsure about EJ25's as i've only done them out of the vehicle so far.

Which boot was busted/replaced - inner or outer? Sounds very telling that the axle needs addressed, increase that sentiment if it's an aftermarket axle: The descriptions...getting worse over time, wheel speed, under load (throttle related) all sound very axle suspicious. I would hold off on the trans as that money may be better spent on axle work than trans fluid. Cost conscious options: 1. swap the axles side to side and see if the noise moves or like LT said it may load it differently and go away. 2. remove both axles and swap the guts...i forget which way and if it matters but I've heard of people doing that and they say the parts wear differently when installed on the other side. I haven't done it or taken them apart and compared side to side to see if that makes any sense or is any different from option #1. 3. buy a used Subaru axle - i routinely buy them for $25, could probably find one for $15. www.car-parts.com search by zipcode #3 is what i always do as a rule since aftermarket axles are low percentage and problematic. running the spare should not have hurt your transmission at all, it's just an open diff, only one wheel is driven at a time, the other can do whatever it wants.

Legacys (not outbacks) in 1999 Legacy brighton, L, 30th anniversary And 1999-2001 Imprezas (except RS). it's confusing because the FIRST year of that engine came in some (not all) of the LAST of that body style.

You have torque bind as LT just said. make sure tires all match in size and roughly tread depth, mismatch is bad for the 4WD components. change the fluids a few times and that will get rid of initial torque bind. if it's been like this for awhile then it's likely too late and the rear transfer components are hosed. If the fluids don't fix it, I would install a switch that allows you to switch between FWD and "locked". Some of us do it even on vehicles with no issues just so we can go full lock for offroad or snow driving. It only requires splicing in a switch on one wire, it's very simple and documented on how to do it here. The howling is hard to say - normally it would be a bad wheel bearing. Should be noticeable that it's from "one side"...left or right. Have someone sit in the rear or trunk area while driving, the'yll be able to tell. If it's been driven a really long time with torque bind I suppose a rear axle could be damaged but that sounds highly unlikely. Subaru rear differentials never go bad, they're usually misdiagnosed if replaced.

I'd clean it out like crazy and get new coolant/distilled water in there to have a clean starting point. Does the vehicle have Subaru's required coolant conditioner? Did they install it properly - shake the bottle vigorously and pour in the radiator? Maybe they didn't shake the bottle - that'll leak little particle like weird things floating in there. Supposed to shake it. Automatics do have a transmission cooler passing through the side radiator tank, that is another area where oil can enter the coolant....but I've never really heard of that happening, they make that cooler copper/metal and it's submerged in a fluid where it won't corrode and yours is really new so hard to imagine that happening.

"Engine", not "engines" - there's only one offered for a 99 Outback: EJ25D (Phase I Dual Overhead Cam - DOHC, EJ25) http://www.cars101.com/outback_archive98-99.html

erase multiple codes and see which one comes back first. replace that one first. here the vehicle speed sensor is the easiest one so i'd replace that one. they don't fail often enough to justify new prices so used is a good fit sometimes. does the FWD fuse by the front passengers strut tower in the engine bay work? when you install a fuse does the light on the dash light up FWD and is the vehicle in FWD? don't laugh, this has happened before, are the driveshaft and rear axles in place? same with ABS - clear codes and see which comes back. a bad rear brake light bulb can cause the ABS to freak out. the filament can fail in such a way that it dirtys up the signal on that wiring circuit which is integrated with the ABS controller. replace bulbs. some model Subaru's right around 96-98, i forget which year(s), have a relay issue with the ABS. you can google it i'm sure, it was fairly common, maybe even a TSB, etc available for that issue. sometimes sensors are just crudded up with metallic fragments, cleaning them off will get rid of an ABS sensor code.

www.car-parts.com or offer it up used/for parts. if it's a VDC let me know I'd be interested in it. if you suspect the headgasket diagnosis to be correct and want to verify, have the coolant tested for exhaust gases. that will verify the headgasket. if you question their diagnosis then we can help more if you answer the questions i'm going to type in response to your post. all we have is words so we need clear information to make any diagnosis without being able to touch, see, or drive the car. "heard of" - cars overheat all the time. every engine ever made can overheat, it's quite common with all the hoses, clamps, gaskets, seals, radiators, and more in the system. overheating can cause headgaskets to blow, determining which came first will require some work. Ideally the check engine light was read as soon as it occurred and some simple tests were done the first time it overheated: 1. was the radiator (not the overflow) full of coolant (let it cool down first to check)? 2. were there bubbles in the overflow tank when it was hot or while running? 3. any recent work done? (had the coolant ever been changed) 4. when running hot were the fans running? 5. when running hot, did turning the cabin heat on result in hot air for more than a minute or two - or did it blow hot then cool off?

and how is it running? match the timing belt to the heads. picture the blocks as all being identical - so heads determine the belt.

i believe these early 90 and 91 legacy auto's had an issue with the transmission cooler or lines close to the radiator getting clogged up with debris. i think Subaru even made a kit for repairing it and/or installing a filter to keep them from clogging. as a temporary test you can simply buy a piece of hose and install one end on the outlet side of the transmission fluid line and then the other line on the inlet side of the transmission fluid line - making one big loop and bypassing all filters, radiator, lines, hoses, etc. if the transmission then shifts fine then you know that's the issue and it only costs a few bucks in ATF hose which is easily used down the road anyway. might be other ways to test but i'd highly suspect this clogging issue since it's a 90/91 thing.

i've had them shipped from out west. a little legwork but worth not only not buying those insane prices, but not supporting them either.

www.car-parts.com keep in mind that 99-2001 EJ22's will also work in your vehicle with two simple extra steps.

any check engine lights? the rough idle certainly needs taken care of.

yes, but: 1. any 1996-2001 EJ22 will also require the exhaust manifold - it's single port. it bolts right up. those can be hard to get as yards often wont' sell them. 2. if it doesn't have EGR it'll have a check engine light. will install and run fine, but if your state requires emissions you may have issues. that being said there is a simple work around to that issue posted here, familiarize yourself with it. 1995 automatic EJ22's are direct plug and play swap, have EGR, and have dual port exhausts. 1995 manuals have dual port exhausts but not EGR - need the EGR work around. 1996-1998 EJ22's need the exhaust manifold and EGR varies with no known indicator to know whether it has it or not- just have to look with your eyes. but someone did find a workaround and posted it here, so that's not a big deal if that works. i haven't done it yet.