idosubaru

thanks, i love hearing what i want to hear! i'll take the one out and be done with it, i've ran enough uneven bolt patterns on rotating assemblies to think this doesn't matter and your unsprung whatchamaharmonic intertia stuff suggests the same. lol *hopefully* i can figure out which one it is now that i left it in and the locktite has hardened. that'll be the hard part. you are correct. burnouts and drifting are things i don't know how to do. LOL

one (of course) rear diff ring gear bolt stripped. the obvious solution is repair the threads, but what do the following "non thread repair" options look like, because I highly doubt i'm doing thread repair on this: 1. leave the stripped bolt out? this is where I'm leaning, it's my daily driver XT6 so i'm not too concerned. 2. leave two out - 180 degrees apart for balance? i doubt balance here is critical concern. 3. leave it in and locktite the snot out of it. ithis sounds like an awful option. it already has locktite so i wonder if i'll even be able to tell which one is stripped....? rather than standard 1.25 thread it's 1.00? i doubt i'll buy that weirdo sized inserts i'll never use again.

what he said - trying to remove it yourself is very difficult. that stuff is insane. i'd invest in quality tools - whatever the pros use - or pay them to go cut a used one out for you and install it. 85/86 had some XT odditities but i'd be really surprised if the rear glass was any different than 88-91 XT's and XT6's which were more common. from what skishop said sounds like all XT/XT6's are unavailable?

all H6's (at least in US) are 4.11. same Subaru part number ring/pinion as early 2000's imprezas with 4.11 - have any impreza's with 4.11? thanks ivan

the H6's are excellent platforms and 02-04's are great at reliable high mileage. that's cheap for one, but they are quickly coming down in price now that they're 10 years old too. a few years ago they were much pricier and harder to find for a good deal, getting common now. timing chain - so no upcoming 105,000 mile maintenance like yo'ud have on any 4 cylinder. the serpentine belt pulleys (both of them) bearings fail *all the time* - consider them immediate maintenance concerns and check them every 60k. luckily they take 30 minutes to do both and it costs $10 - $40 depending whether you just replace the bearing or buy two new pulleys. spark plugs are a bear to do - plan on hours. annoying, but they only need done once every 100,000 miles. so you're about due. every one i've pulled at 100,000 has looked in excellent condition so they don't even seem to wear/degrade much.

not sure where you're seeing that but actually, not one person said they run hot. if everything is operational they're fine. people only mention "additional cooling capacity" - as an aid to performance, towing, heavy use, etc. a properly operating EA82 will never overheat for normal daily drivers duties. think about it - if they ran hot there wouldn't be any left after a quarter century, there would have been massive warranty work and issues all over the internet from when people were driving them more often years ago, they all would have overheated in the first 10 years. nope, they're still trucking.

is that Ej22's? EJ25's - like GT's, LSi's, and SUS are 4.44. i edited my post to say 4.11's are found in newer gen stuff...

it is much easier to just buy what you want. can't you sell the 95 and get an AWD? you never said whether it's currently a manual or auto and what you wanted to install - manual or auto, that makes a difference too, but either way it's plenty doable but time consuming. i'd just flip one or two to make enough to buy what you want or wait until you see one needing work and fix it. much simpler. yes the older body styles i agree are not that appealing to look at though great platforms mechanically.

6 lugs is not stock. are you sure it's an LSD diff? 4.11 is found in newer generation differentials - legacy, impreza, outback. manual transmissions are 3.9 or 4.11 - most 2.5 liter manual transmission models are 4.11 01-04 (and later) H6 transmissions are 4.11 - and they all have LSD rear differentials (VLSD type). No automatic 2.5 liters are 4.11 there are gear ratio charts, inspect those. subaru's opposed forces website may help.

Are any of yours 4.11 final drive like the H6 trans? (subaru part number is same for impreza and H6 ring and pinion) I'll likely need ring and pinion - anything else?

i did try starting and putting it into gear while simultaneously letting off the brake - so it would see no resistance hopefully - and it still stalled. didn't get it off the ground though..but about the same concept.

the EA82 is a great platform for inexpensive, reliable, high mileages. 200,000 is easy and they really don't wear out unless you run them low on oil or overheat them - which they don't do unless maintenance is skipped - valve cover gaskets, cam seals, hoses...etc. nothing major. * replace the timing belts often - subaru says 60k, you are wise to replace a little early on these if you like long term reliability. * use the ebay timing belt kits for $80 with all new pulleys, the old ones are devoid of grease, and a new water pump which are prone to fail more often than newer stuff. reseal the engine - new valve covers, cam/crank seals, and reseal the oil pump. or if you want to own it a long time and not have TOD, install a new oil pump. their main problems are simply circumstantial: 1. they're old - lots of hoses, gaskets, clamps, etc need replaced by now. 2. they're not worth much - so many people don't do anything about the issues in #1. people don't put much money into vehicles that aren't worth much so they don't get very well maintained. though you'll find lots on this forum that are adept at it, that's not the norm. 3. trying to get power or performance out of an EA82 is just not what it's good at. they are very low powered engines, realize that and ignore it and you'll have a great, inexpensive, reliable commuter. it's the EA82T (turbo variant) that has all the issues - headgaskets, cracked heads, blown blocks, blown turbos...not your engine. but folks often sort of lump them together since they're so similar and the EA82's do get the visible cracks between the valve seats, though they are benign.

ivans - since the front diff was whining then mine is probably the front diff right? or maybe the loose pinion due to front bearing being bad damaged something else? why wouldn't the rear have any power?

i was already making progress to convert it to RWD. it's not sounding good but with VDC disabled maybe it's not sending anything to the rear and i'll get lucky and be able to convert it still? it'll work fine for me. I only need two with snow tires and 4wd, which i already have. i don't have time, i'd just like 6 months to a year in RWD then fix it.

The normal P0420 for 100,000 miles. LOL I didn't check this morning but a week or two ago it had a check engine light for P0732 and P0734 for transmission shifting. I assume front diff related - front and rear speeds not matching. I didn't check this morning. No AT lights...funny for the ECU to have a trans code but not the AT? If it is the front diff though - wouldn't the rear wheels at least move the car? It's a VDC model but the VDC was disabled about a year ago - I never looked into why.

is a gas tank leak dangerous? i've never heard of anything happening but gas is volatile?

EJ22 - will just have one exhaust pipe coming out the bottom of each head. see the one port/hole on the top of this manifolld: http://www.ebay.com/itm/95-96-97-98-99-LEGACY-EXHAUST-MANIFOLD-ENGINE-Y-PIPE-2-2L-EJ22-1996-1997-1998-/231028494167?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35ca5f0f57&vxp=mtr EJ25 - will have two exhaust pipes coming together out of each head. notice the two ports/holes: http://www.vincentfurniture.com/subachad/Jon/images/exhaust_headers_na.jpg look underneath the engine right where the exhaust bolts to the engine - you can tell if it's the single (EJ22) or double (EJ25). timing covers on EJ25 will be large two circular indentations on far left and far right ends too. EJ25 - spark plugs go through the valve covers. EJ22 (in 1998) - spark plugs do not go through valve covers, valve covers are under the spark plugs. or put the VIN in a VIN decoder on google. quite a few ways to tell.

hmmm, how would i test that - put it in drive and immediately let off the brake? as long as it's allowed to go then that shouldn't stall it? i don't have much more driveway to test. LOL

Engine runs fine - put my 220,000 mile 02 OBW H6 VDC automatic in drive and it stalled the engine immediately when put into gear - not even a hint of movement. Drifts fine in neutral. I tried putting it in drive while revving the engine and it engaged, it felt very jumpy and shaky though (but don't really recall noises, though it was short) so I turned it off nearly immediately, only drove a few feet down the driveway. Didn't trust it to get me back if i went anywhere. I've had a growling noise up front - like possible front differential isues. Fluid level is good. But it never made any clackety clack noises like I've heard other failed front diffs make. Can the diff lock up in such a way to stall the engine but still be able to roll around fine in neutral? If so - what is that failure mode look like internally? The pinion gets "stuck"?

you need to the codes. the car is probably telling you exactly what it need. advanced auto parts, autozone, and others read the codes for free. WRITE DOWN the code, don't listen to what the people tell you it is. give us the numbers like P0325 (which is knock sensor). knock sensor is a $15 part off ebay that takes 20 minutes to replace, very easy and they commonly need replaced. that is one terrible Subaru mechanic. Check Engine Light indicates there's a problem - turning the light off wont' fix the problem!!! that's like thinking turning the fire alarm off must mean it'll get rid of the fire. they were wanting a light turns on and then stays off when they turn it off??? LMAO!!!! hopefully they weren't lying just to sell the car.

remember we can't see or touch the car, good description is key. any check engine lights? does the transmission light flash 16 times at start up? i don't know what "go up like a granny driver" means. when you say it won't rev up do you mean: the engine RPM's won't increase? or vehicle speed does not increase? when it accelerates does it ever stumbled, hesitate, or make noise?

i'd probably look for high quality hose of some sort, but looks like you got it nailed. are you sure the tank leak isn't the lower fuel filler hose? with that much rust i can't imagine you haven't fixed it or had issues yet?

Where can I get Duty C solenoid wire access on a 2002 Outback VDC? 2001-2003 should be the same, I think they changed a little bit in 2004.

that is strange, i've never seen a Subaru with that code, even ones that were empty/low on refrigerant..!?!? simply dump two cans of refrigerant in it and you're done. the A/C will easily last the life of the vehicle no need to pull a vaccuum, I never do and it doesn't matter. before you do - replace the two orings on the compressor fittings. remove and install two new green orings on those connectors. due to engine heat cycling/vibrations those are the two that frequently fail, the others are still in great condition after years/200,000 miles usually and never need replaced. they are one bolt each, really simple, and you can match them up in the generic kits from auto parts stores. if you wanted to bypass it i'm sure it's just a simple switch that probably just needs permanently connected "ON" or complete the circuit, depending how it works. continuity test would confirm which way it currently works and then you just do the opposite.

Match sensors to the ECU - which hasn't changed, so 02 Legacy O2 sensors. @180k they are tired and old. If you're planning on another 100K it's worth it to do it now while it's all been apart and you'll probably incrementally recoupe the costs. If you're limping it along or that cash is better kept in the pocket, then who cares as long as your gas mileage is good and no CEL. Brand, I think Bosch is the generally preferred Subaru unit. You can wire in or direct fit, either way is easy enough if you're comfortable doing some wire splicing, it's easy and done off the vehicle so nothing tricky about it. I used to favor Subaru on newer cars I'm starting to see less reason for it on O2 sensors. If the break is a wire, you could splice that back together too. May be a bunch listed because there are H6 sensors listed which may be different.