idosubaru

weird, i just had this code pop up as well and i didn't find much info about it a week or two ago. few posts/info and most people never posted back what they did. i cleared it with the scanner and it hasn't come back yet, but i'm sure it probably will.

look at like 2000+ models, that looks like those with the flatter, rectangular reservoir. why are they not working out? are you use it's bad, Subaru MC's don't really fail. very rarely they'll leak, but failure is nearly unheard of.

unthread old tie rod, install new tie rod. nothing complicated about it at all. yes you can slide the boot out of the way to do whatever you want.

any engine lift will work, they're fairly generic - a big jack attached to a boom, add chain/hooks. you do not need the computer, fuel pump, or to do anything with the wiring harness. simply remove the entire EJ22 - intake manifold, wiring harness, and all - and drop it into the EJ25. you use the EJ22 wiring harness in the EJ25 - it's plug and play. you'll bolt the EJ25 flexplate (because yours is an automatic), A/C, and power steering stuff all onto the EJ22 and it plugs right in. no computer, wiring, or fuel pump stuff to worry about. it depends what year the EJ22 is but: 1995 automatic you don't need anything. remove it and it's plug and play into your 96. 95 manual EJ22 won't have EGR - still plug and play simple but yo'ull have a check engine light. a user here posted an easy work around though, check it out. 96-98 EJ22's you'll need the exhaust manifold to go with it because it's single port exhaust - but if you're going to a parts car then you're fine, just grab it - it bolts right up tot he vehicle as well, easy. 96-98's are a bit random about the EGR issue - it's not straight forward which have them and which don't (like in 95 auto's have EGR and manuals don't) - so you just have to look to see. if it has EGR you're golden. if it doesn't then work aroudn it. or ignore it - you'll just get a check engine light, that's what i do. (and no swapping ECU's will not help with EGR check engine lights, not even close to that simple). if you live in a state with emissions testing and can't have the CEL on, or don't like it, then you'll need to work around it. again - find that post that was started this year regarding that.

yep, very reasonable. a 96 should be the old style (horizontal with two bolts) tensioner, those are extremely reliable and rarely fail. the newer style (introduce around 97) are less reliable and should be replaced every time. the brown material seals - like SUbaru oem seals - are generally far better quality than the black ones. theimportexperts is a good ebay supplier and the PCI component kits are good. good luck and an easy 200,000 here you come hopefully.

got the video to work now. woah crack, that is really loud. not sure how to verify the difference between valve or bearing issues? pull the valve cover and inspect the valves? why were the heads replaced? heads were replaced....with new or used heads? were they resurfaced, were they measured for thickness to be in specifications? 1. did it make that noise immediately after the head gasket job? in other words did it have no noise at all and then after the work it had this noise? that would be odd.

a Legacy L has a non-interference EJ22 - those motors are awesome and if you don't run them out of oil or overheat them they easily make 250,000+ miles. one of Subar'us finest engines in terms of cheap reliability and inexpensive high mileage ownership. easy to work on too with no major issues. granted it's creeping up on 20 years old so that doesn't do it any favors but if you get timing gear, tune up stuff, fluids up to snuff they're reliable machines and easily maintained. if you want high mileage reliability at some point you'd want a complete timing belt kit off ebay: they're only like $100 or less and include timing belt, and all new pulleys. it can be done in an hour or two. i generally due a complete timing belt job on every one i do while the timing belt is off and everything is easily accessible - reseal oil pump, crank seal, cam seals, cam orings, water pump. timing belt has to be removed to replace all of those so good for longevity to replace them all at once. those parts are all cheap too, single digit items except the pump. but if you're paying someone else to do it sometimes that changes things.

oh right duh - it could just be the hoses and clamps? i was sort of assuming it was rust because that's what seems to come first around here for those hoses. LOL

You can run them indefinitely in FWD with no issues. The 4WD components - Duty and clutches are fairly straightforward and simple - they're robust and keep your tires matching, fluid changes and they'll treat you right. The FWD fuse or controlling the circuit yourself with a switch (which some of us due for better offroad/snow performance) is no big deal to run like that indefinitely. Oh and to your cylinder misfire or running issue - Subaru EJ engines (yours is an EJ22) aren't very forgiving of ignition components - so spark plugs should be original NGK and in good shape and wires should be Subaru or at least high quality. Other plugs and brand new wires can cause misfires on these engines...usually it's the really cheap wires, but nonetheless like I said they aren't forgiving. I generally consider new plugs and wires routine for your engine as soon as I hear cylinder misfire.

if the FWD fuse works - the Duty C is probably fine. It's very possible that if you do some more ATF changes and keep driving it they clutches will free up. or if you feel you've changed it enough, just keep driving it with and without the FWD fuse. how many miles have you put on it since changing the fluid the last time? and what kind of driving - highway or around town? i'd get at least 100 miles on it to see what kind of pattern it has...getting better or worse. TCU codes are annoying to get - you have to do the secret hand shake to get the light to flash the codes, there's no easy way to do it.

A Phase II EJ22 equipped 99 Legacy - will it have a speed sensor (the one on the front diff) like the 95-98's or later models? finally found it on opposed forces - it's not listed under the transmission section, it's obscure... looks like they're the same from 95-2004, even 4 and 6 cylinders, i thought they'd be different with Phase II at least. part number 85082AC002 http://www.ebay.com/...R-/231003855716

knock the outer tie rod off the steering knuckle and remove both as an assembly without separating them though once you do that, saving you from the rusty nut connecting them. as for installing, it'll have a new nut on it so it's the same effort installing individually or together, no savings there. probably be more room to forget something since you'll have to put the steering rack boot on first before you connect the tie rods - it can only go on with the nut and outer tie rod disconnected. be simple to just install the inner rod, secure the boot, then install the second. but yeah - you can do it that way if you want, not much to tie rods in the end.

definitely need to let us know what engine - i think it's an EJ25D DOHC you're running? it's probably the TPS, i don't think the IAC's have coolant lines? the TPS has an intlet and outlet hose and the one that goes to the heater core line under the drivers side intake manifold is the one prone to rust and leak. it's the one that goes under the a/c compressor and down towards the water pump and gets the bypass hose. have to pull the intake manifold to replace that line. another option is to simply bypass the TPS stuff and run new hose, might save time and cheaper. the TPS doesn't need cooling lines anyway, i remove them as standard pratice on my daily drivers if i'm in there for something else because they're unnecessary, been doing it for years. so remove the two hoses and cap them off or run them in a loop, etc. it's routed like this: COOLANT SOURCE.......to....TPS INLET.....to.....TPS OUTLET.....to.......BACK TO COOLANT SOURCE i skip the TPS stuff and just a run a one piece hose from COOLANT SOURCE (where it comes from) BACK TO COOLANT SOURCE (wherever it goes after the TPS). less hoses, less clamps, more reliable. you'd have to run hose from the water pump bypass back to that heater core hose. you have a couple options, but i would probably attempt to cut the hose under the a/c compressor and see if you can attach a piece of hose there - then snake it under the intake manifold to the heater core.

Porcupine (member) says rear passengers side of the fuel rail on his 00 - 2 screws and 5 minutes. another member said front drivers side of fuel rail on an 04 H6. which is all about the same as they've been for decades so you should see it on the fuel rails...unless of course it's got a zillion covers over everything. here's a guy that had lean fuel conditions and had to replace his fuel pump on an 06: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/77114-2006-outback-wagon-2-5i-low-fuel-pressure.html looks like the regulator at some point was built into the pump right around 05/06 and no longer in the engine bay...not sure when though? makes me wonder if i can "upgrade" to the new style pump with built in regulator and no "cap" that fails on the 00-04 models?

every subaru tie rod has been the same for like 3 or 4 decades now, so should be really simple. i googled a brat tie rod since i've never done one and it looks just like every other subaru. so should be really easy. i generally have a large pipe wrench on hand for removing the inner and rusty outers - rust is the hardest part to the whole deal. if it's not rusty/corroded it'll be easy. the outer tie rod is hard to get out of the steering knuckle sometimes. having a good tool for that would be good - tie rod separator or i guess since yo'ure replacing it all you can bash the snot out of them too. the nut that holds the two tie rods together is often rusty and hard to get off - i generally use pipe wrenches again here because the flats on the tie rod itself intended for holding it in place can't even come close to holding up to what it takes to loosen those things in the rust belt. the inner joint is generally not bad because it's sealed from elements and doesn't corrode rust. may be tight due to time and age but they're generally not a problem. yes you can reuse the steering rack boots, the Subaru boots are quite good quality and hold up well if they still seem in good shape. but now is a good time to replace them. they are hard to slip in place when reinstalling the boots - i pull up on about half of the boot and get it up on the steer rack lip...then rotate that half up top where you can't reach. while holding it in place grab the lower lip of the boot (not installed yet) with pliers and pull it the rest of the way on the bottom remaining half of the lip where it goes onto the rack. before it would take me multiple tries, wait til i get lucky, etc - doing it that way i can do it once every time. if you keep measurements or count number of turns and use an identical replacement (OEM if it's a Subaru original part) then you can keep alignment in spec. but if you can't or don't want to fiddle with that kind of problematic method: i actually did my own home alignment (toe only, which is what tie rods affect) a week or two ago and it was unbelievably easy. run a tight piece of fishing line (clear is nice so you can see through it) from a measurement off the front center of the hub - then the same off the rear. but find the track width difference and add it where needed. so on 95-99 legacy's the rear had to be set 2.5mm further from the locating point than the front - that gives you a straight line. then simply measure the distance from that line of the front of the tire and rear of the tire and adjust the tie rods until they're identical. it was really easy and there are some threads about it.

copy, then should be good to go. a new tensioner could still fail, these new style tensioners are not that robust, and we don't know if the shop installing it may have released and compressed the new tensioner a couple of times thereby compromising it. not hard to need to remove the tensioner after you just installed it. it's easy to test/check as it'll be driverside front in location.

yes Phase II SOHC EJ25's are much better han Phase I DOHC's. 99 EJ25's require Subaru coolant conditioner due to the headgasket issue (not true of the 98 DOHC EJ25 - conditioners don't help it because it's a different failure mode). plan a coolant change and adding the conditioner if you can't verify it's ever been done. i'ts only $2 and change from Subaru if you can believe it. LOL the 99 Forester EJ25 headgaskets leak externally so you can simply look under the engine and see if they're currently leaking or not. 99 Subaru's are notorious for speedometers not working. it's a one year issue (minus a couple bleed over late 98's or early 2000's). If it's not the speed sensor then there's a simple soldering fix for the speedo head - really easy to do if you see the speedometer not working. or swap odometers to a similar mileage used one, all very easy to do. around mid to late 90's they also had cable and hydraulic clutch type transmissions but those bits can be swapped back and forth. but you'll notice that diference if you start looking for trans.

Yes it has a sock AND a filter. Subaru's have always had fuel socks..or at least for 4 decades no that I know of, they're just generally ignored and not talked about unless you have a terribly rusty fuel tank or something like that you'll never see on such new vehicles. They're always built in and on the uptake side of the fuel pump, even in older 80's stuff where the fuel pump was external and completely different. Yes do as you say with fuel pressure, probably a good idea. A small amount of fuel sprays out when you remove the fuel lines. It's not much and I ignore it, not worth my time to depressurize, but since this is in the cabin I can see how some folks would want to do it first. The gas still doesn't get "into" the cabin since the hoses are accessed through a plate and still "outside" the cabin. but the fumes will of course get in the cabin for a small length of time.

Your MC is fine. You mention no brake issues and Subaru MC's never fail. It's so rare that a misdiagnosis is more likely than failure. *** What is gravity bleeding? get another person and do it the easy way in a few minutes - pump the brake pedal. or get some air hose like for an aquarium (take a bleeder screw with you as there are different sizes - fronts can be larger than backs i believe depending on model/year) - run it over the bleeder screw nipple and loop it upwards so that fluid/air bubbles don't go back into the screw when yo'ure done pumping. run the end of the hose in a bucket. the slower way to do it by yourself is to pump the brake pedal a few times, bleed a tiny amount, pump and build up pressure and bleed, over and over. pumping will build up enough pressure to bleed a tiny amount at a time if you're a masochist and absolutely refuse to get a helper to make it an easy job. there's a couple varieties of pumps that you can attach to the brake master cylinder to push fluid through from that way too - Motive Bleeder or something, i bought one years ago, forget the name. quite a few options to push fluid through. if you're still quesitoning - fill the MC and pump the brake pedal - does the same amount of fluid come out of the bleeder screw on each side? if so then everything is working properly. a collapsed brake hose prevents fluid flow whereby the rubber hose constricts internally keeping fluid from moving by anything but hydraulic pressure (brake pedal but nothing else). BUT - failure of this type is extremely rare in a Subaru, i've never seen it in a Subaru. There is also a proportioning valve, i'm not sure how they work but maybe that's putting a kink in the works in terms of the way it directs fluid flow...?

the fuel filter in 2005 moved to inside the gas tank. it's under the rear seat bottom cushion. remove cushion (like 2 12mm bolts), remove access cover and then fuel pump. 30 minute job. the sock is on the bottom of the pump and indeed no need to touch it. fuel filter won't be an issue either but easy enough to replace if that's what you want. pumps are easily replaced, but insanely expensive and i don't trust aftermarkets yet. i'd check fuel pressure just because it's easy ( have no idea how expensive a smoke test is, but can i join him?! LOL).

interesting. you can probably also get an oil analysis done yourself, it's very well known and common these days - UOA - "Used Oil Analysis" there are companies that take your samples, look for metal, contaminants, etc, and they'd probably have the depth of experience to give some good feedback on the results. these guys are the most popular that i've heard of, though i have no personal experience. http://www.blackstone-labs.com/ antique...if the car was practical, reliable, and usable then that's very valuable to some of us. i might have a car only worth $1,000 but if I can get another reliable 100,000 miles out of it because of the time, effort, and parts i've put into it then i'll expect more than the average joe. case in point - my 96 legacy that's already been in 3 deer collissions, one at 75mph on the interstate that i rebuilt was wrecked over 1,000 miles from home by some folks that were borrowing it. a guy who's dad owns a shop (that i know) said it was totalled and worthless. and it is...190,000 miles and already rebuilt once....but it was worth it to me to pay $400 to tow it back so i could rebuild it...a second time...because i know that car and it's able to go another 100,000 miles.

if it has never been overheated or run low on oil (or really long intervals) it shouldn't be rod knock. check the timing belt tensioner - they fail all the time and they will knock. i wouldn't drive it much if the tensioner fails this is an interference engine and you'll have bent valves (more money than a headgasket repair). i replace those tensioners as a rule, they are failure prone anyway. they will slap hard and sound like rod knock as the metal on the tensioners slams up against the metal of the engine. you can check by listening closely with a stethoscope or possily a rod/screwdriver on the timing cover while runnning. if it's louder on the drivers side it's the tensioner. you can also pull the timing cover (possibly just the drivers side) and see it slapping up and down. if you go in there again do it right and get a complete timing belt kit if it is the tensioner failing. $160 on ebay for all new pulleys and tensioner. a new belt alone is silly with old pulleys and tensioners that have a ton of miles, years, and are devoid of grease in the bearings. maybe skip those on an old rusty beater - but not one you just dumped a buttload of money into for a headgasket repair and expect another 100,000 miles from. often happens after a timing belt job too, old part that's prone to failure anyway, it doesn't like being fully extended and recompressed, extended again. again - replace it immediately and don't drive it - if it slips time you'll have bent valves (unless you're really lucky which you aren't feeling right now). piston slap is obviously - loudest at start up and gets better as it warms up usually.

i didn't assumed if the mechanic offered to inspect/repair - this thread wouldn't exist. most of the responses are fairly similar and trying to get at the route cause. it will certainly require one of us to go to Hogwartz to figure this out via a computer keyboard without being able to see, drive, hear, or look at the car. there are two compelling points to me: 1. car initially taken in with an "idle problem" - was that a pre-catastrophic sign? it's not uncommon for a car to go in for a noise or minor drivabiliy issue only to find out it's something ominous. i could tell of instances where that has happened and it sucks, it's rare, but it happens. but i'll save the stories. 2. it is very odd that an engine would seize while in the hands of someone else for 3 miles. sure does put the light of possibility on them...but in light of #1 there's much ambiguity too. and being far away and limited by words there's likely bits of the story we don't know, so too much assumption isn't really all the helpful.

you only need to reply to or start one thread, not multiple times the same question in different threads. yours is 60,000, subaru's of the past 10 years are 105,000 which is what your mechanic probably sees most of. see the other thread of yours i replied to for more thorough information on having it done right.

the mechanic is thinking of Subarus of the last 10 years - they're all 105,000 miles. yours is 60,000 miles. thing is, if you want a reliable vehicle it needs changed regardless of mileage in order to replace all the timing components. that's why the original poster of this thread had a belt break at 40k - the belt was new but all the pulleys were old. buy an ebay kit for $100 and it includes all new pulleys and the timing belt. i generally do everything else while i'm in there too - cam seals, cam orings, crank seal, reseal the oil pump, tighten the backing plate screws, and replace the water pump. but if you're paying a mechanic to do it that'll be up to you and the wallet to discuss. all of that stuff is really easy with the timing belt off and if any of it has problems in the future - the timing belt (and it's associated labor cost) will be done all over again. so it would stink to spend $500 to replace a timing belt and then have to spend $500 to replace a $3 cam seal or $40 water pump in 6 months. seals are only $15 and $40 or so for the water pump...no really much extra money or time to do it right. most folks on here that do a lot of subaru stuff would do all of that. then you're good until 300,000 which that engine can easily do if it's been well maintained.