idosubaru

an ECU operates both EGR and non-EGR vehicles, i've swapped them before with no changes. a non-EGR ECU will function identically to an EGR ECU when installed in an EGR equipped vehicle. it'll show the EGR codes and all just the same.

i've done a bunch of these just like this, it's not a big deal at all. clean it up and install a new crank pulley, that's it. no need for a key or sprocket. 3 foot pipe on the socket wrench and it won't come off. i never use locktite either. it simply needs to be tight enough.

no, it's actually really easy. slightly annoying with lack of space down by the tank but it's still hardly any worse than simply changing your oil.

you can pull and install the engine and trans still connected without ever disconnecting them. need lots of room to lift high at a crazy angle but i've done it with a regular basic engine lift. i wouldn't trust a sub $200 EJ25 unless you know the person. the "new" engine at some point should get a new timing belt kit. if the dealer did the timing belt they reinstalled all the original 10 year+ old pulleys with bearings devoid of grease by now. ebay kits are the way to go - about $200 gets you all new pulleys, timing belt, and a new tensioner...all of which fail. it's not imminent so you can address it later but i wouldn't consider that a 100,000 mile timing belt job if and when it was done by the dealer. in other words don't plan on replacing the belt at "100,000 miles after it was done the last time". unless you like being risky. it's not a high risk, but it's an interference engine so if the pulley fails it breaks the belt and you'll have bent valves, which i've fixed plenty of times. i typically do all that at once when i get a car or before selling one. again - dealers do the bare minimum just the belt, never all the pulleys and tensioner unless it's requested by the owner...and that's rare because the prices are absurb for such an easy job. most folks on here familiar with this engine would do/say the same. but we are aiming for 200,000+ reliable miles and know how to do it.

you won't find one. there's no models they came on or were typically found on...actually it's debatable they actually existed...i mean, they did but they are so rare you might as well consider that you won't find one...everyone that's ever said they saw one has never been able to show, prove, or post a picture of one. you'll have to buy one $800 new or find someone that built one and is selling one. for practical purposes it's likely you'll need to assume that all the LSD's are 3.7's.

oh and more specifically - yes it's a very easy swap. 1. bolt the manifold onto it. 2. the only thing you need to swap is the crank timing gear and the drivers side cam timing gear. no need to swap sensors or the other cam (which has no sensor or triggers associated with it). actually they might even be the same anyway and not need swapped, you can simply look at the trigger marks on the back of the crank gear or cam sprockets, if they're the same you're fine. but if you swap you know you're good. *** EGR is the only point of concern. early 2000's were wonky with which models/engines had EGR so you may want to check that if check engine light or emissions are an issue for you/your state. there are work arounds but you'd likely want to know this ahead of time.

replace the headgaskets. cheaper and better end product. there are two key items the dealer doesn't do when repairing headgaskets: 1. they use the same junk headgaskets that have been blowing up until 2010...horrible solution. use the EJ25 Turbo headgaskets and do it right. 2. all dealers i know locally don't resurface the heads. due to those two items repeat failures are fairly common, i'd consider a 50,000 mile replacement headgasket just as iffy as any unknown. they only need the repair to last their 30,000/1 year warranty or whatever it is, 100,000 mile longevity, reliability, and cost effectiveness are not their expertise. if you do it yourself, or have it done: 1. it'll be done right - use turbo headgaskets, resurface the heads 2. it'll be cheaper 3. you know the history of the motor. (the junk yard motor may have been severely overheated for all you know when the headgasket failed the first time. way better end product with a solid 100,000 miles left in it. *** Be sure with either engine that you install the required Subaru Coolant Conditioner and fresh antifreeze. - it's $2.47 a bottle at the dealer. that conditioner will stop existing external leaks - though it's too late for yours blowing internal exhaust gases into the coolant.

very important - they can't be stuck. you also need to tell us what model/year. the newer...sometime around 2001-ish models have a STUPID IDIOTIC ASININE bushing (can you tell i've seen it happen a bunch of times?) on one of the two pins on each caliper. this bushing swells and catches inside the bore. it seems likely to happen after a brake job...exposure to elements, larger than normal range of motion, new grease, etc. anyway - the good news with this issue is that you can just throw the bushigns away, i do it as routine maintenance now they're so annoying. if it's and older car or even new - it could simple be rusted. have a really good pipe wrench or other device handy, they can be a bear to turn and get to come out. i've had a few that required torches they were rusted so bad. clean up, properly grease and you're done

it's basically easy, have a TON of rags/towels ready it's really messy. if you just plan on using a dozen rags/shop towels it's easy. the pin in the axle only goes one way when reinstalling if you look at the splines on the axle before you crawl under there you'll see one has a valley through the center and the other has a peak through the center. so it only installs one way. rust can make it an issue getting it apart, but other than that it's not bad.

excellent. glad you nailed it. Bingo - ECU was my one and only guess in my first post. i agree sticking with the 99 was the best bet and that's what i suggested in the beginning - i posted a link and info/phone number to a $35 99 ECU before you said they were going to be hard to find and an "arm and a leg", and started looking at $110 non-OBW ECU's on ebay...seemed to be stalling about easy, cheap, identical ECU's, but i get it when it's a weird situation, new here, and first time digging into something.

if you're installing the dual range later anyway then it hardly matters maybe. cheap, close, simpler, lighter....whatever you're feeling a particular day. you could skip the carrier bearing/driveshaft stuff - if you can make something to hold the fluid in you can install a 4WD trans and just run it with the diff locked and run it as FWD until you get around to finishing or installing the dual range.

great, thanks beast.

be unfortunate to dump the money/effort into rebooting it if it still clicks after the job....although it'll still last to 200,000 miles rebooted if you can tolerate the clicking. to test it you could try stuffing grease all up in the joint by hand and drive it. if the clicking diminishes then that's a good sign. if there's no change then it'll likely click when booted. maybe it won't be as loud if it's completely covered with a good boot though. LOL i've had the inner joints, twice, that were making noise, be perfectly smooth and noise-free after a reboot. 2 for 2 so far. haven't tried that on an outer boot yet though, i replace far fewer of those. if you tell a mechanic you talked to some experienced subaru folks who said the subaru boots last longer, they'll generally gladly install it - they get a better end product since you've done the research. if you're trying to save a nickle then they get annoyed. online subaru parts are 20% cheaper than locally...but then you got shipping so probably a wash. you'll need both boots as the inner has to come off to replace the outer.

ivansimports - it probably is the ECU in his case. hollander is nice but it only tells maybe 60% of the story. right - they aren't meaningless -but by meaningless i mean they aren't useful or helpful to me, or many others familiar with subaru's. matching them certainly gets you what you want - at the cost of ruling out lots of other options. i prefer to expand my options and not limit them by resources that really don't know or have any experience except in compiling databases. thousands of parts with different numbers, even different part numbers, are interchangeable. Subaru, hollander, are limited, albeit helpful guides. i could list hundreds....maybe thousands...of interchangeable parts off the top of my head that Subaru and hollander wouldn't agree with but is common knowledge in the subaru community.

that is a nice document, thanks. where is the G sensor located? i didn't see it listed? i have some ABS codes...and i think 46 may be one of them, i'll have to recheck.

private sale has the best opportunity for maximizing what you get for it, but a lot of folks in that price range want to go through a dealer, so you could set a time frame like two months trying to sell and see how much interest it gets...but if you're already eying another vehicle you're probably wanting to move quick so you'll have to go get hosed at a dealer. small - in what way? if it's seating and yo'ure talking a legacy sedan, then i consider it a small upgrade, but i'm not that picky. if it's utilitarian/cargo space and you're looking at a wagon, then it's a huge upgrade and worth it if you need it. if you travel, hobbies, gear, stuff, kids, pets...the wagons are fantastic. There is one large mechanical benefit: 2010 Legacy gets the updated MLS headgasket so there should be far less chance of headgasket failure in that than the impreza (a $1,500+ repair at Subaru). But spending $5,000 more to save $1,500 doesn't make financial sense so not a big deal really, but put that on your PRO'S list if you're really itching for some excuses to buy. $14k does sound really cheap for a 2010. they're usually like $3k - $5k more than that here with 30,000 miles. if you have any inclination to hold the impreza, get two more years out of it and look to get into the better (hopefully) FB engine, which i think started in the 2012 legacys. no timing belt maintenance or headgasket issues. though they are new and not entirely "proven" yet either. but i'm weird i buy stuff and want 300,000 reliable and easy miles out of it, so i'm picky.

milesfox is a member here who i think has done work for people before up in that general area...i forget where he lives exactly though.

you can drive it a loooong time while clicking if you stay out of sand and other abrasive nastiness. depending what they put on the roads in the winter too - in MD they just use gobs of salt and it doesn't matter. in WV they use rock/coal dust of some sort that will eat them quickly. i've put 50,000 miles on fronts and 100,000 miles on rears (i never bother replacing the rears, there's no point as they never fail) with broken boots/clicking outer joints. i learned all this in college when i couldn't afford to replace something if i didn't have to. if you stuff the joint full of grease by hand the clicking may even subside and if you kept stuffing grease up there it would likely last the life of the vehicle. but the front joints throw it everywhere so this is impractical. *** DO NOT replace the axle with an aftermarket axle of ANY kind. if you don't believe me then simply search any subaru forum to convince yourself, the aftermarket axle supply is rife with issues. anyone that says something else hasn't done dozens of axle jobs and seen how common the failures are. The best solution is to buy a used Subaru OEM axle (they're $25 - $33 each, i buy them all the time) and replace the boots with new Subaru OEM boots. Aftermarket boots are fine but don't last nearly as long, i've seen them break in 2 years. If you reboot axles as soon as the boots break, the axles easily last way past 200,000 miles. Find your axle here, www.car-parts.com. i've bought gobs of axles off of their and reboot them Total cost will depend on mechanic and your area, etc, but generally $150 - $225 per axle. $25 axle $30 for boots $100 for install/supplies/shop Once the wheel is off it requires removing one nut, one bolt, and knocking pin out to replace the axle - it's not hard for a shop to do at all. Should only be an hour labor.

okay for the SRS system to work you'll need to: 1. retain the seat belt pretensioners (matching gray ones need to be the SRS pretensioner-one-time-use seat belt, not a regular seat belt). 2. retain the side impact air bags in the cloth seats. or ignore both of those and try to swap in a control unit from a vehicle without side impact air bags or seat belt pretensioners. the control unit is under the radio and held in place by security torx bits. that's funny, i hate cloth, leather is more functional for me...leave windows down, go swimming, fishing, hunting, get all greasy, wet or muddy, kids, spill a drink...no big deal, wipes right up.

they are interference, the only damage they incur is bent valves. but Fairtax is right - sometimes you get lucky and dont' have bent valves, best to slap the belt back on and check or do a leak down test. if you find out they are bent then you have these options: 1. replace the bent valves - it's actually really easy, the only hard part is getting the valve springs off/on, it's a real bear and no good tools available for these heads so it can be a pain. 2. replace the heads with a used set - they're not hard to find inexpensive so this is often a good option. www.car-parts.com, ebay, craigslist (beware), or even this forum - there's a parts wanted section you can post in. 3. you can have a machine shop replace the bent valves for you. they only need valves and valve stem seals. ***if you do this, there is no need for a pressure test though most machine shops request it or require it for warranty. waste of money on these heads, they are always fine and yours are too. you can resurface the heads yourself, it's really easy: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/122588-diy-head-resurfacing-or-post-apocalyptic-machine-shop-techniques/ *** Make sure you use the EJ25 Turbo headgaskets on this motor, it's a far better gasket that doesn't have any headgasket issues like the non-turbo version.

probably low and you probably have a leaky oring. $5 fix, very easy. you can buy the cheapie ghetto gauges for a few bucks at an autoparts store to measure the current pressure to see if it's low. if it's low then and was charged properly/working before then you simply need to replace the two orings on the compressor ($5 and 15 minutes): http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/127980-diy-ac-air-conditioning-leak-refrigerant-repair-for-5-or-less15-m/

this is really simple...simply listen to the advice you're given here and you'll be done in minutes and cheaply. i've already told you everything you need to know in a prior post including a phone number to a $35 ECU. crawlerdan is parting one, i put a link to that too. find your own here: www.car-parts.com the numbers on the ECU are meaningless and useless for this. any 1997-1999 EJ25 will work...auto/manual does not matter. there's a pin out to tell the ECU which it is and it can run both. you're obsessing about numbers that don't mean anything. this yard has ECU's for a 99 OBW:

nice. EZouts are awful. personally i'd take it to a machine shop and let them take it out. they'd probably have it out in an hour of shop time and that's well worth the tear down of two engines and rebuild of another. it sounds like it's probably a huge headache to even dig into any further, hard to imagine it coming out but if you have any inkling... have you tried drilling a bunch of smaller holes around it or to one side? if you get enough of a cavity to one side you can then beat or push the EZout into that cavity. hog it all up and helicoil it when you're done? how much space is around those bolts?

yeah odd - the engines are completely plug and play interchangeable but ECU's are not? odd indeed. but wiring usually confuses me.

a 97 EJ25 ECU is the same isn't it? i know it'll plug in and run the car just fine with no check engine light...not sure about the readiness monitors though?