idosubaru

awesome, glad it all finally came together. great deal for an 05 forester. thanks for the run down of the project, good info Naldo.

CTS - coolant temp sensor as Gloyale said. Common to have issues EJ engines are not very forgiving in terms of ignition components as Gloyale suggested, mostly to cheap wires and you got good stuff. NGK is highly recommended for plugs so i'd keep those in mind if it continues.

hmmm, not sure what that means but okay... i have remotes - need to know which kind, i think 98 forester should have the rectangular style: $25 shipped.. price varies depending what "bluff and gruff means" LOL remote info: http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html

move flexplate and all accessories (power steering pump and bracket, a/c and bracket), from the old engine to the new engine. actually the A/C compressor can be swung out of the way so you don't have to open up the system to do it. yes - that engine is plug and play.

I've done that exact swap before as well, I use the EJ25D headgasket, the thinner headgaskets are risky.

you guys got all that memorized...i'm going to have to guess on some... $50/month insurance $12.50 a year inspection $35 (i think) registration $50 a year in property tax, at most. my insurance coverage is way above the minimum though - the minimum insurance required if you "buy insurance" is only $25,000 coverage in my state, which is worthless to me. if i damage $25,000 worth of someones stuff or someone sued me for $25,000 it would be annoying but i'd manage. if someone sues me for $250,000 that's a big deal. so i ask for and pay for higher insurance coverage way over the minimum amounts, it's not even that expensive. i've had two friends (one of which is a member here) get sued for 6 digits and taken to court for expenses over and above their mimimum insurance coverage - all of a sudden your job, pay, home, family are in jeopardy.

gas treatment sounds like a good first step. cylinder misfires can happen without any check engine light, doesn't happen often but i've seen it before. it's usually due to non-NGK plug or non-OEM or low grade ignition wires. 1. brand and miles on the plugs and wires? in my experience the knock sensor is the most common problem I've seen on EJ engines. if they don't throw a code yet, remove it and look at the bottom of it. they're usually cracked or the rubber is sort of corroded/separating from the inner metal bushing. it's a bit awkward to get to but can be replaced via one 12 mm bolts in 15 - 30 minutes...add a bit for your first time maybe. they're available on ebay for like $20 or less. they have an orientation and torque value that are good to follow - orientation meaning the pigtail from the sensor faces a certain way - i think sort of pointing to the drivers side strut tower from memory, but the diagrams are easily found in an FSM or online they've been posted. CTS - yes that's a good thing to check too. they are cheap and not terribly difficult to replace, i believe you can test them if you'd like. i just replaced one recently and i don't recall having any issues with it, it's a bit tight but no big deal.

Great, thanks. That's what I needed to know. Wow, crack, finally someone answered my question. Thank you! How many times do i need to ask the same question to get an answer? How do I request no repair advice so that I actually get no repair advice? I don't need any repair advice, at all, none, not a discussion, not an option...does that make sense...how else can I say it? He can not fix valves or do a head job, has never done it before, works a ton and doesn't have time and only has one car. it's not even remotely possible or makes any sense, he works too much. He was already looking for a newer Outback before the bent valves, so fixing it would be stupid. The car won't sell for anything substantial around here, regardless of what west coast pricing. Car is too far away for me, nor it is worth my time. Do I need to tell his life story....or can we agree that what's a good fit for one may not be a good fit for another? I have done engine rebuilds, valve jobs, a zillion head swaps and frankenmotors...discussing whether to swap heads or repair is a waste of time, i'm not asking that, already done that countless times. We are past further diagnosis. If you think the car is an easy fix and a great car, make an offer!

looks like there's no major differences, which has been my experience before...i think. i did a Phase II EJ22 engine vehicle and memory tells me it was a Phase I engine.... http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1734851

that's unfortunate and really annoying i hear you...but it's part of the biz - if you ruled out every supplier for a mistake you wouldnt' buy from anyone if you were me. i work on lots of cars but do it myself, i'm not a shop with an account so my sources vary wildly and have had a mistake from every single vendor available...all the subaru online vendors have made mistakes...sent me the wrong part, charged me for expensive SVX sensors i've never ordered, forgot to ship.....and advance auto parts, rock auto...i could tell gobs of stories. would you like me to recount every mistake i've had so you can write them all off your list? there will always be mistakes, doesn't matter who you use. the more work you do the more mistakes you'll see, it's just a cost that's going to happen. i just get better at purchasing online or preparing ahead, and if i have a question i go to the dealer locally and do it if i can't afford any hassle or time delay on a given project.

what is different, i think i've done that swap before.... i've also put Phase II EJ25 heads on Phase I EJ25 blocks...which is basically the same thing since you can essentially swap Phase I EJ25 and Phase I EJ22 heads...???

awesome. no emissions here either - I don't bother to install the EGR in my stuff since it doesn't matter here either/no emissions and fewer parts, hoses, stuff which i like. does the evap stuff even matter? mine had an EJ25 with vapor canister and stuff up front and i just removed it all when i installed an EJ22 intake manifold that didn't have all that. nice clean, simple looking engine bay with no vapor canister and no EGR stuff. forget the $100 kit, you can go 100,000 miles without one really easily. go buy a $2 needle tip for a grease gun and gently pry the face cover seal up off the timing pulley bearing and inject new grease into the pulleys. then tap the face seal back down. you'll need some fine tipped dental cleaning type picks to get under the face seal...the harbor freight cheapies aren't quite stout enough, they bend. but even if you use what you got you can get it to work with small nails, etc and maybe you'll not get a perfectly smooth end result on the face pulley - but you can always go back in in 30,000 miles and check, not a big deal, and regrease them. the bearings never fail - they simply run low on grease...which causes them to fail. do what i just said and the pulley feels tight and smooth again just like a new pulley and you'll never have to replace them. don't overfill them as the grease will expand when heated and push out of the pulley and can even pop the face seals off (unlikely). i've owned like 20 XT6's and you can't get timing belt kits for them - they're $399 on ebay and i'm not paying that. i've done this many times for many years and it works great. i've done it for EJ's too in rare situations, usually i just use the kits. someone on here will send you a set of old pulleys to practice on if you want another set. water pumps never fail on these things so not a big deal. timing belts - you can probably get a cheap belt off ebay or even a forum member - i know i've bought kits before just for the pulleys not used the belts...so i might have a belt lying around....problem is my garage is a mess and id on't have time to look.

he used the wrong mark on the crank sprocket and started the vehicle. poorly idled...caught his mistake...installed belt properly and car runs, idles rough, but otherwise drives fine.

Rock auto sells all the same exact parts available at any other auto parts store. They are a great resource for many people - random comments to avoid them aren't helpful, you should probably clarify your issues in another thread. Part of the responsibility is on the buyer - make informed choices. You can search brands and cross reference part numbers...if something seems ambiguous, unknown, or different - don't buy it. They also make additional unknown/lesser known products available - tread carefully. For folks with time, capacity, experience - buying from Rockauto is a great option. All auto parts stores are simply distributors - none of them make anything, so they're all selling the same stuff. It's not like there's a secret manufacturer that only supplies to rock auto. of course there's variations of close outs, buy outs, and surpluses, and rock auto has a weak and confusing parts selection catalog - etc and you should probably purchase carefully if you're buying the cheapest product available on ebay or rock auto....but you have some decision in that. I generally look at rockauto and avoid if there's any question....but simply crossreferencing to another national chain, amazon, ebay easily tells you if it's the same part.

yep, trans doesn't matter - bolt the Ej25 flexplate to the EJ22 engine. Ej25 is dual port, unsure what 1990 EJ22's are but swap exhaust manifold if needed. that year EJ22 is not plug and play so yes you'll have to swap wiring and whatever necessary to make that happen. what i would do is get a 1995-1998 EGR equipped intake manifold and bolt it to your 1990 EJ22 then it's plug and play with zero work, no wiring at all. bellhousing bolt pattern changed in 1998 but don't let that concern you, just use the existing holes that line up - 4 of them i think.

though keep in mind that thread is not about the differences i'm talking about, just the first pic i could find of the triggers.

the backs of the cam sprocket have triggers on them for the cam sensor....the triggers are different on some motors. pics of back of cam with triggers on them here: http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=26912 around the 99-01 era those trigger marks may differ...if they do simply keep the sprocket with the vehicle. if they're the same, which they usually are, no worries.

i think you're close to the mark, the compounds definitely degrade and EA series timing belts were never that stellar to begin with. if any oil or coolant gets on them that degrades them very quickly as well, i've seen fluid saturated belts break in a matter of months....a smaller amount of fluid would take longer but still degrade the belt.

1. rod bearings are shot 2. timing belt tensioner or pulleys are shot #2 is easy, check that immediately. interference engine so if a pulley or tensioner fails completely you'll have internal engine damage. #1 means you need a new engine or engine block. an EJ18 or EJ22 swap would be the cheapest. i picked up an EJ18 for $150 with only 100,000 miles and warranty, 60,000 miles later it's been a great investment.

thanks guys. don't need suggestions on repair...just experience running on bent valves. quarter million miles and time to move on...if you wanna make an offer for this easy to fix, well worth it vehicle, please do. sorry Fairtax, i have no idea how many are bent.

no altering needed....sometimes you have to swap the cam sprockets if the timing marks are off in some Phase II engines...I haven't seen enough to know which ones are different. it's around 99-01 that i think it happens sometimes. just swap cam sprockets. but you asked about timing kits - that has nothing to do with timing kits.... you buy a timing for the engine - so you want a 1999 2.2 liter timing belt kit. the sprocket and 2 pulleys are all the same/interchangeable from 1990 - like 2010 or something. tensioners, an old style and new style introduced around 1997 so all 99+ are new style. the belts differ though depending on vehicle/engine.

Friend has slightly bent valves on his 1997 Impreza EJ22 and fixing it is not an option. Prognosis for driving it a few months like that? Idles rough, drives good at highway speeds, he drove 100 miles at 80mph on the interstate yesterday. Only instance I found of someone driving with slightly bent valves was a guy on NASIOC with slightly bent valves that ran fine for 4 months in a "racing application". I mixed up a bunch of bent valves with good valves and tried to separate them last year and they were so hard to differentiate even spinning in a drill that I just bought new ones. This suggests maybe it's not a big deal for a short period of time...??? He's already been looking for another subuar so I'm thinking he'll be fine to limp this thing along for a few months?

that recessed center part looks like it could be an allen wrench, but it's not? does it have anything in there that looks like a fastener of some type? worst case you have a shop evacuate the refrigerant, install a used part, and charge it yourself. if you're super anal have a shop pull a vaccuum, but it's not at all necessary. annoying but that's worth saving $1,000 to most. or find a shop that will install a used compressor for you and just let them do it. 1 hour labor - $100 charge - $200? way better than $1,200

Run them. Probably done it once and forgot but i've never replaced Subaru rear rotors. 200,000+ miles is common for them and they're not even getting a work out with daily driver duties.

The 2001 EJ25 can have headgasket leaks but is far more forgiving than the earlier version in that 99 SUS. 2001 is a better engine. They leak externally and don't overheat unless it runs low on coolant - so it doesn't have the random overheat issues of the earlier models. You can easily check - just look under the motor where the head meets the engine block - it's leaking or it's not. If they start seaping, it's generally really slow, like the metal just starts getting wet and it progresses very slowly over time, they can be run for many miles and years with leaking headgaskets...like 50,000 miles with no issues....just don't let fluids get low. Not that i recommend that long but you have lots of time to plan/prepare if you need to and if there's no leaks currently that's a good thing. There are better gaskets to replace the 2001 Ej25 with as well that wont' leak - EJ25 Turbo headgaskets should you ever need to do it. The 2001 requires a Subaru coolant conditioner (bottle for $2.47 from the dealer), I'd exchange the coolant and add that when you get it...or negotiate for the dealer to do that for you before purchase, to make sure it has it. Other than that - just make sure it has the timing belt done. I prefer a complete kit - pulleys, tensioner, belt if possible. Great year and vehicle otherwise, I like those OB sedans.