idosubaru

i'd install a used trans and have the headgaskets/timing belt done. used trans can be installed for $500 - $750. $300-$500 for part and $200-$400 for install. www.car-parts.com add head gaskets and you're getting close to only $2,000 total. can you live with the headgaskets for now? spread out the costs or even to get another year or two out of it? those era's don't typically get worse very quickly if you can tolerate checking/adding fluids...but sometimes replacement gaskets fail differently or worse than originals.

ha ha, i totally get it man, keep it up! www.car-parts.com should have a real cheap one for you, or someone on here. get the right one, not sure how much they varied over the years. i've heard of places that make brake lines, like stainless steel to your spec's - length and fittings. you could entertain having a couple lengths made with the fitting sizes so you're ready to connect the lines together if you wanted to bypass it....but probably simpler to just get a cheap used unit. even splicing/bending the lines probably isn't that hard in that easy to work in space to make your own.

good job tracking down the issue via copper...bad, bad no doubt. +1, if you fix it, address those screens, run synthetic and change the oil on time and you're golden. those are great motors/vehicles.

never seen or heard of driveshaft issues with my lifted Subarus or others, doubt that's it, 1.5" is low key. no clue, bad luck? don't have to. buy the ujoints and let a shop or machine shop do it, it's easy for them. couple phone calls to find a place and you're done. get a used one for $25 (or one of your old ones if you have it) and give the shops the parts - done.

you're pretty much hosed with block/head/intake swapping - none of that parts swapping is going to help, none of it is Phase II which is your issue - you're trying to swap between Phase I and Phase II. follow Gloyale's lead on this one, he's one of few that is familiar with it. he can't bolt the 2001 heads to the EJ22 block? i've bolted phase II EJ25 heads to Phase I EJ25 blocks.....and i'm pretty sure folks have bolted EJ25 heads to EJ22 blocks. the easiest solution, if it's possible is to swap the 2001 heads onto the EJ22 block if it's possible. i've done the same swap but with 2001 heads on an earlier EJ25 Phase I block, not an EJ22.

you're in good hands with Scott another vote for numbchux too this place is an awesome resource for anything Subaru you need or need to know.

he checked it tonight - it's dead on so he must have bent valves. so previous question again - how long can he drive it with bent valves? runs fine above 1,000 rpms....he drove 100 miles today at 80mph. the only thing it could hurt is: valve guides...but the bend would have to be high up the shaft? seems unlikely to me. catalytic converter due to misfiring...but quarter million miles and he's about to get rid of it in a couple months

In general terms the 00-04 models are nice in some practical ways. They don't have VVT, PZEV, less complicated exhausts, no ghostwalking or shimmies that can't be mitigated. $8k could put you in 05+ land though. www.cars101.com has lots of subaru specific info. You're in a good range to buy from an owner if you're willing to pull it off. Averaged out you always get a better deal buying from owners than dealers. Dealers know nothing about a car or why it was auctioned or traded in. Chances are really high that a personal owner is selling with full disclosure or confidence...dealers have none of that. You're in the price/year range where this holds true. You're in WV (im in Morgantown) - rust is huge anyway. But the rear subframes on some early 2000 models (not sure if it's just H6 Outback sor H4's as well) are subject to rust and recalls by Subaru...inspect carefully. If you're lucky enough to swing it - by one from the south or west, it's awesome having a rust free car! Headgaskets - only an issue on EJ25 engines. All years, the symptoms and severity differ. 00-04's are the "best" in my opinion. 00+ (and 99 Foresters) leak externally, so check them, it's very simple. Look under hte engine at the head gasket mating surface on both sides. It's either leaking or it's not. If fixed the EJ25 TURBO headgasket should be used - those differ and do not leak. Repairing with the same failure prone headgasket isn't a great fix, so while nice I don't put a premium on already repaired ones. Timing belts are 105,000. I prefer having a complete timing kit installed - new pulleys and tensioner, expecting 200,000 (to the next change) from the original pulley bearings and tensioner is a small risk. Ebay kits are very reasonable for all those parts $160-$200 for a complete kit. Torque bind as mentioned above. The EZ30 H6 engine is awesome for reliability: no timing belt (timing chain) and excellent reliability. The few issues they have are super simple. You can easily get one in the $8k range now in the 00-04 model year, but they only come in automatic Outbacks. That's about it for major issues to look out for. Find one in Morgantown, or in Charleston by next week (i'll be there two days), or pay my mileage and I'll look at it for you. lol

he will check timing tomorrow. compression test is out of the cards. how long can he drive it with bent valves? if it drives fine at 80mph it's obviously not too bad. the two bent valve Subaru's i repaired last year wouldn't idle or drive at all. quarter million mile old impreza and he's buying a new subaru this summer, he won't be fixing heads/valves.

The power light works but doesn't blink even when in limp mode? Is it possible to go into limp home without a trouble code? I would think so only with a mechanical failure...just a guess. Standard questions: 1. fluid level is good 2. no bubbles in ATF when this happens 3. trans pan isn't dented? 4. no check engine codes? Have any critters lived in this car (chewing wires)? I wonder if maybe a ground issue...causing the TCU to simply be "turned off" If not I'm suspect of mechanical issue, pure speculation based on nothing at this point though.

Friend used the wrong mark on the crank sprocket in his 1997 Impreza EJ22 and it wouldn't run....used the other mark and installed it properly. Idles horribly and runs poor below 1,000 rpm's....but it runs fine above that and he's driving 80 mph right now just fine. Bent valves? Car has like 250,000 miles and he's not going to fix it....how long can he drive it like this? looks like this guy bent his valves on a 97 EJ22: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/38590-97-ej22-timing-belt-versus-valves-fight/

what nipper said - that compression is really low and both being bad does suggest the cam is lined up wrong or some kind of timing issue. that it ran before hand and first time after suggests your block is good - so unlikely to need a block if it's not timing - blow by out that vent cover (and not the other) suggests something may be wrong with the heads...valve stem seals or valve guides...in which case it may be warrantied by the shop that did the work, most reputable shops warranty valve jobs. you probably need the head reworked (warranty?) or buy a used head. i guess it could be blow by at the rings but i'm unfamiliar with the symptom differences between that and valve issues...and sounds unlikely given it ran fine before hand. the Subaru Turbo EJ25 gasket is the best choice for that motor, they do not fail. six star is good and all but if price is a concern you may want to compare.

good job. i use a 10mm socket on one of the 3 cam sprocket bolts to turn it.

i looked into...and think i posted here or subaruxt.com...about converting one of my manual XT6's to auto (XT6's are the same 4EAT trans as a GL-10). the auto's are great. the wiring is so extensive it's not worth it unless you have gobs and gobs of time to pour over the stuff....but wiring isn't my thing either, doesn't sound like you're far from me in that area. i already had the parts car (a few) and considered it way too much work. you have 2 other options, neither of which anyone would do LOL: install the 4EAT and no controller. i drove an XT6 like that for a year. default is 3rd gear and reverse, purely mechanical mode. you're in 3rd gear no matter what forward gear you put it in all the time and the rear 4WD transfer clutches are constantly locked. simply install a 1 wire switch to control it yourself for FWD or locked 4WD. i wouldn't want to do it on a non-turbo 4 cyliner but the XT6 actually drove fine even in the (small) mountainous area i live in and did fine on the interstate as well though RPM's push like 4,000 (though XT6 manual trans does 4,000 rpm at cruise speed anyway). install a 3AT - there are no electronics...but not sure why anyone would ever do that, they are not very highly looked upon transmissions.

are you sure it's rod knock? the timing tensioners can get weak and slap and they sound amazingly like rod knock. they slap and you get a metal on metal sound which is muffled by the timing covers. doesn't sound like you're that fortunate, but check to make sure. don't know that turbo motors have piston slap but that's common and confusing to people in the EJ25 world. what he said is probably where i'd head - probably better off fixing and selling. at least the turbo models have great value. non turbo engines have been turbo'ed before but gotta keep the boost really low. and yes your turbo heads will bolt right up to the non-turbo block. if any of the oil or coolant ports are in the block then you'll need to figure that out...i'm unsure where the EJ25T coolant and oil ports are. don't forget to sell your turbo block when you're done - recoupe some of costs if you don't have to give it in for a core.

you can install brand new Rockford greaseable ujoints in Subaru driveshafts. i'd favor a driveline shop if you can find one since they actually deal with ujoints all the time. take your shaft and 3 new ujoints and i think it took them under an hour, so it won't cost much. it can even be done yourself if you're up to cutting out the old ones and prepping for the new ones. you can at least cut the old ones out before you take it in. that's a lot of warn out drivelines, weird.

The only Outback offered with a 2.2 liter was the 1996 manual transmission. And any 1995's that are called an Outback will also be 2.2's. Other than those it will need to be a Legacy model (not GT's - those are all 2.5's - other models vary by year which motor they get). That is the problem with my suggesiton, the 2.2 is only offered in the "lower end" models so if you want leather, trimmed out, decked out with an EJ22...you can't get it. Some LSi's....like 1999's anniversary editions are really nice and had a 2.2. Actually I forgot, the Impreza Outback Sports are really sweet little rides if less space and lesser trim don't bother you. They all have the 2.2 liter motor until 2001. They aren't as nicely trimmed and interior, no leather, as the legacy's. So if yo'ure looking for refinements that won't be it. But otherwise they are simple and great vehicles for daily commuting. If you can manage some work or have a good mechanic you can swap an EJ22 into an EJ25 vehicle, it is plug and play. Get a blown EJ25 vehicle cheap (not hard to find) and then swap in an EJ22 to get the car that you want. Friends EJ25 blew headgaskets last year, i picked up and did a timing belt job on an EJ22 for like $400 total and the EJ25 will sell for more than that, so he's not out too much eventhough he had to pay his mechanic to install it. The EJ25's aren't terrible motors, the headgasket issue is far more prevalent than in other Subaru's and that 96-99 Legacy/Outback and 98 Forester version is the worst of them all. I tend to avoid them but they are still nice vehicles - they can get great gas mileage and perform very well, an excellent balance, and they always come in nicer vehicles so they feel nicer all around. SJR lifts and Gloyale (Highguys) are both members here that make lifts. 2" is a good choice.

excellent, never saw the mention of grinding noises. mention that as a symptom next time, very telling for those that can't see, look out, hear, or drive the car. the FSM lists nothing, it says replace compressor if clutch is bad. weird considering how detailed they are on the transmission rebuild sections. a few hits on google, i'm not on good interweb so i didn't look at them all, here's one from here, i saw a few comments about needing a puller to get the pulley off, so once it's unbolted it might not come off easily. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/56131-ac-clutchproblem-solved/ you could get a used compressor to practice on, www.car-parts.com can sort by lowest price or get one from someone here, who might even be able to remove the clutch first for you. this is one reason so few people dive into a clutch....it's so easy to simply swap compressors for cheap. another option, last resort if you do have to remove, is to have a shop evacuate the system for you so you can do your own work. totally understand and appreciate your stance, well said. familiar with NASA's AQUA, AURA, and TERRA? lots of environmental data, as their flight software engineer i have a weaker view than yours. maybe the repairs i do prevent cans being used and leaked out again as well as reducing unecessary replacement. though really every one i repair is leaked out already anyway so i don't reall vent as Subaru a/c component failure is so rare. mechanics routinely charge $500 - $1,000 for replacing parts that don't need replaced, i.e. the compressor....increasing energy demands for factory casting, logistics, transportation, fuel costs for parts that aren't needed. maybe my less noble efforts amount to a break even environmental impact. LOL

great thanks BulW - more water really helped, excellent. this gets straight to my real issue, i need to dump more heat no doubt, the car tows great, but the cooling system isn't up to the task. there are no H6 aftermarket aluminum radiators though...so i'm limited.

disconnect the lines at the pump and brakes (and valve) and have some compressed air ready - blow it in one side and see where it comes out? probably a waste of time - but maybe find an engine bay shot or junk yard with a non-ABS legacy/impreza and see how they route it? should be able to trace the lines from the front brakes to the front components right? i dont' recall those being buried but i've not looked much either. given their sensitivity to rubber quality i am surprised about ABS...it has to cause a lot of accidents. but, ABS works fine in the winter with new tires. with aged tires it is absolutely scarry, can't even come to a stop on steep mountain grades, i suspect many accidents around here are due to tires, college town with lots of out of staters from flatland. compound quality is huge and degrades with time. i lean towards running my worst tires in the summer and having new tread in the winter.

other cars have the ECU in the engine bays, i'm sure it can be done. insulate and keep the heat away shouldn't be a big deal. i'd be interested in gas mileage improvements, though i know you ruled that out. would it still control the check engine light parameters too - if so i'd love to dial out the stupid P0420 debacle. i'd think it would need to come in under the cost of a stripped harness - which i think folks charge like $200 for...if i did a swap i would totally pay them to do that stripping and so if there's an off the shelf box i'd also go that route. but some/all of them also quit doing that - so you might ask them why - what problems did they encounter or was it not worth their time? and what kind of demand did they have? you are exactly right about maknig it practical and simple. projects quickly get out of hand. start out with a simple and great idea and gets complicated because each person wants one thing slightly different, style, color, fucntionality, fit, different year, motor, country. simple sounds smart. 95-99 EJ's may be a great fit since EJ18, EJ22, EJ25's can all be plug and play and the ECU's are interchangeable. so one platform could control every EJ engine during that time period. 00-04 would be simple too, after that gets into variable valve but i think you can ignore them and the engine just runs like one without VVT. newer models opens the market up more to the rust belt if that matters. around here 99 and earlier stuff is becoming obsolete due to rust and the people driving/wanting those era rust buckets aren't looking to spend anything or care about maintenance. i like that era but they're mostly a waste of my time.

*** did you properly burp the coolant? that motor is notorious for air bubbles impeding coolant flow and causing overheating. make sure you bleed it nose up and get all the air out. if that's not it: 1. what brand headgasket? 2. were the heads resurfaced? 3. who did the install? 4. how badly blown were the headgaskets when the job was done? in other words was this a car you were previously driving, never overheated, or was this an auction special that's been burnt to a crisp? 5. are both cooling fans coming on? check for bubbles in the coolant overflow, do an exhaust gas in the coolant test, or make sure radiator isn't clogged. you said the car overheats when youre not moving but only if driven. that doesn't make any sense...

I'd get a legacy with an EJ22 (2.2 liter) engine. no headgasket issues, better motor, better miles per gallon. should be easier to find too. foresters never came with an EJ22 and legacy's have a longer trunk area so they're more practical. not much difference but if you ever use the space it's easily appreciated. If you get a Subaru with an EJ22 you can basically change fluids, do a complete timing belt job, tune up (if needed) and it's very easy to get a reliable 100,000 miles out of an inexpensive used Subaru. they make 200,000 miles with blinking usually...at this point you're mainly fighting prior maintenance/disclosure - so that extent you'll get a much better deal if you can find a one owner or second owner that's put a lot of miles on it, maintenance records, etc. the EJ25's are basically the same motor and reliable minus the headgasket issues. I do this all the time - got a friend a 80,000 mile 96 impreza with Ej22....he's at 240,000 miles now and looking for a newer one. another friend i got a 96 Legacy Ej22 with 100,000 miles for $900 and did a complete tune up/timing job and it has 220,000 miles. neither one i don't think ever broke down on them and of course i've owned a bunch i could talk about. Foresters only have the 2.5 liter EJ25 engine. They are prone to headgasket failure, the 1998 Forester EJ25 is particularly troublesome and I'd avoid that year unless there's a compelling reason not too (like it has an EJ22 swapped in it's place LOL). 1999 and up Foresters got a better version of the 2.5 though still prone to headgasket leaks they are far more manageable and don't leave you stranded like the 1998 Forester EJ25. (keep in mind these headgasket differences are one year off on Legacy/Outbacks so the info is a little different depending on model). If you get a 99 or later Forester simply look for external leaks under the vehicle, they are obvious and spotted within 15 seconds, simply look at the headgasket to engine block mating area and you'll see fluid or you won't. it can be oil or coolant. The 1998's there is no definitive test as they are random and blow exhaust gases into the coolant.

rockauto is great, there's always a %5 discount code online too when you check out. get the code and take %5 off. they sell the same pads as anywhere else and often times for really cheap - just be sure to crossreference the parts numbers on ebay, advance auto parts, etc to make sure it's for your vehicle. compare pictures if you can. as Chux said when you drill down on RA you don't necessarily end up with listings of parts that are for the vehicle you selected. the delineations aren't as accurate as I know them to be sometimes...so choose wisely. often times you can get %20 - %50 off via Advance Auto Parts too and pick it up locally or free shipping and it ends up being a better deal. i order from rock auto sometimes but find Advance Auto Parts often has some smoking deals if you google "Advance Auto Parts discount code"

you can swap oil pans, they're different but interchangeable unless i'm just forgetting something. 96 EJ22 is a single port head and you'll need a single port exhaust manifold as the Ej25 is dual port (1995 EJ22's havedual port exhausts, but not 1996+). your vehicle has a 4.44 final drive ratio (i think all EJ25 auto's have 4.44), which no EJ22's have so if you install the EJ22 transmission you'll have mismatched final drive ratios and binding in your drivetrain. you need to also swap the rear differential to match final drive ratios if the transmission final drives are different. or just keep the EJ25 transmission - all the transmissions are the same essentially besides the final drive ratios. they're interchangeable because they're basically identical. if you do install the Ej22 trans you can even leave it all bolted up and install it as an assembly with the engine bolted to the trans. high angle and all so leave plenty of room, but doable and saves a ton of work separating and reattaching. though you may want to replace the rear separator plate anyway with a metal one while it's out.