idosubaru

those are fuel injector orings/seals.

indeed.

exactly - you can cut and drill glass but not once it's tempered as all auto glass is. could probably source the wiper from JDM, ebay, or something....the glass will be the tricky part.

i think folks have swapped Phase II cranks into Phase I blocks and the other way around....so i did a cursory glance of some subaru rear main seals and they are listed to fit all Subaru EJ engines from the 90's and 2000's. i'm sure you could verity on opposed forces but i'm going to bed....and i guess there could be other differences, like maybe the rear main seal isn't the end-all-be-all.

Nice hit getting the codes, those things are tricky to get to flash, i've been skunked on many Subaru's. Correct - shouldn't be driving with torque bind. Additional strain on drivetrain components - axles, ujoints, transmission bits, etc. But you can still drive the car and save yourself the hassle of switching cars, registration, taxes, tags, insurance, batteries, brake rotors sitting.... Simply remove the rear half of the driveshaft and run it in FWD that way, it's very easy. Leave the FWD fuse in place just in case the Duty C decides to work again (but it won't). It's only 4 12mm bolts on each end of the shaft and yank it out. Picture of the front and rear sections here, they are unbolted in this pic, the second picture from the left shows the long section that you'll unbolt. it bolts to the rear diff and the shorter section in that ebay listing. the shorter one stays in place, don't remove it. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1999-subaru-legacy-driveshaft-prop-shaft-/321121640199?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1996|Model%3ALegacy&hash=item4ac4575f07&vxp=mtr There is the duty C solenoid and a clutch pack in there - some people opt to replace it all while it's apart - the Duty C and the clutches. Up to you, very roughly doubles the cost.

woah, almost done, well done boss! rounded off, that sucks. knocking the bolt head at an angle with a chisel/hammer should loosen it up. those bolts are really loose once the first intital breakage is made. good luck buttoning it up!

nice job. exactly right - HLA's (Hydraulic Lash Adjusters). they make a world of racket when you first start up a rebuild and can take up to 15 minutes or more to subside.

they also get very unsafe to drive....the car will start loosing control and fishtailing at highway speed...you'll go from 80 to less than 80 really fast when it starts happening. if it's that loose you can tell you may have signs or you're at least really close to have issues like that. the first thing to break on the one i was driving was the tone ring for the ABS and the ABS light came on obviously.

aftermarket axle issues are common regardless of brand, while you should check other things and look into the axles it would be really common for you to simply need new axles again or try to piece together the ones you got. the best axle solution is to keep the original Subaru axles and regrease/reboot them...but obviously too late for that, but keep your rears at least if they're still original. never replace them with aftermarket. buy a used Subaru set and reboot them or get a set from MWE - they're the only aftermarket rebuilder worth buying from. a bit of work and cost shipping but once you realize the scope of the axle problem..... if you have to buy aftermarket axles EMPI is fairly well regarded though even though they are not without issue.

200 miles no issues except in my head, exhaust...heat shield, road, wind, tire, tractor trailer.....all sounded like a failing front diff. lol

okay - so how long and what would my first symptoms be if this thing were off 360 degrees? would it take thousands of miles to show itself or soon? got it snugged up where i think it's supposed to be, first test drive was no noise and drove normal. gave it some good throttle up a very steep mountain and all normal. we'll see.....i'm trying my best to make this car have issues...210,000 with just maintenance and minor benign items.

after the half a turn past hand tight - the retaining ring was still above the surface of the front diff and i don't remember that being the case as i cleaned the entire area at the mating surface before removing. and...a half turn, which wasn't that hard, didn't seem like enough given how much it took to remove...so i went one more turn. i'm going there, i don't think i was off by "two" in counting...we'll see. anyone know if 360 degrees off will be obviously or not? what a goob!? lol

oh man thanks for some first hand experience, i thought I'd get no response. leaving for vacation when i'm done..>LOL AH! yes, preload, i'm aware! thanks for the feedback, awesome. i was about to call GD lol. i turned it by hand and needed 1/2 a turn (180 degrees) with tools to get it to the marks. so - 1/2 turn with tools or 1.5 turns with tools? maybe it needs to go another....it was hard getting it out, smacking it pretty good but it installs much easier...210,000 miles does that. i don't know how the guts all press together either - maybe it doesn't get tight as quickly as a normal bolt would? if it does then i'm thinking i'm done if i'm 360 off - will i know it immediately or will there be long term damage?

2002 OBW H6 VDC I have it marked perfectly so I'm either dead on or 360 degrees off....I'm uncertain of my six turn count.... Are passengers and drivers side typically similar? Do you recall how many turns it tooktotal? How many turns required a tool to reinstall - the last few degrees - or an entire turn or two? It's probably likely that all are the same number of turns....i doubt any given outback is off from another by 360 degrees...

really - that's part of the procedure? i'm not remembering that but it's been a long time since i've done old gen heads.

ah short - i forgot i had left the windows down in the rain earlier last night...like an hour or two before i drove it....didn't do it right away so it was dry and i had forgotten about that by the time it started acting funny. i'll open the panel and let it dry out while i'm doing front suspension stuffs today.

copy that JCE, i should be careful using "never" and "always".

oh no - hope the EA81 is okay!!!!!

2002 Outback H6 VDC When I use the drivers side window - all 4 door locks are activating. Quits doing it when the car is off I believe. I suppose this means the drivers side door master switch is going bad.....buy everything works fine - all buttons work - i just have the added "feature" of the doors locking (or is it unlocking) when I use the window switch.

you can drive indefinitely with the fuse in place, doesn't matter. Folks do it all the time, many of us have installed our own controllers for the duty c, etc. How tough to replace - it's not that bad technically. It's a pain the butt working from under the car and there is like some small pieces/alignment stuff to keep track of but it's not a big pile-o-parts either. Nothing the board can't help with. Parts - memory it's like $100 (very roughly) for the solenoid and $150 for clutches. So take your pick, i'm sure you can google more accurate prices. A Subaru dealer in Atlanta actually installed a friends very inexpensively...i posted the price here last year or so, I was surprised how reasonably priced they were. Doubt they'll give us good rates up here where they gotta mess with rusty exhaust to get too it!

+1 to his list, no special tools. I'll add the following (standard tools though) to his list: 8mm for throttle and hose clamps. screwdriver is fine if you don't have rust. C-clamp or vice to compress the timing tensioner (sloooowly) 12 point 14mm socket. The headbolts on that motor are a 12 point design so 6 point sockets won't work. 10mm ratcheting wrench is handy for valve cover removal on most Subaru's due to engine layout, but not required. source a piece of glass so you can do this simple time saving and money saving trick: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/122588-diy-head-resurfacing-or-post-apocalyptic-machine-shop-techniques/ it's so freaking easy it's amazing. if you want to avoid removing the motor (i do), loosen two 14mm engine mount nuts and the top pitch stopper and jack the motor up for added clearance. not much worries about injectors, the entire intake manifold just comes right off the top of the engine so unplug some harnesses, disconnect some hoses, and bam there's the long block - remove timing belt, valve covers, cams, heads. that's it. here's a guy that just did it and pulled an intake manifold and one head off here, exposing the block underneath: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/138224-need-a-headgasket-set-but-my-engine-is-not-original/ flop the power steering to the left and a/c to the right without even disconnecting any lines.

excellent job! and good news (finally after all this HG nonsense!!!!!) old style tensioners are far more reliable. i never replace them, the new styles fail often enough I replace them every time unless the car isn't worth it. that probably means your engine is a 96 or 97 EJ25..i don't think that old style tensioner ever came on 98's and 99's. here's a kit with a pulley for that style tensioner: http://www.ebay.com/itm/90-97-1-8L-2-2L-Subaru-Impreza-Legacy-EJ18-EJ22-Timing-Belt-Kit-/260912874922?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cbf9e85aa&vxp=mtr those are all the pulleys you'll need for the job. you can't use the timing belt but you've already got a new belt anyway if you want to save a couple bucks. that also includes all the cam seals (4) you'll need for the job as well as the crank seal for the oil pump. or get one with the correct belt (but no seals) for a few bucks more: http://www.ebay.com/itm/96-97-SUBARU-LEGACY-2-5L-DOHC-TIMING-BELT-KIT-SET-EJ25-/190470276977?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c58e9c771&vxp=mtr I prefer these two companies - pricier but the brown seals are a higher quality (like Subaru uses now) material and i like the GMB and other parts better than some of the other ebay companies. http://www.ebay.com/itm/96-97-2-5L-EJ25-Subaru-Legacy-Outback-DOHC-Timing-Belt-Kit-/220923671942?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item337013b586&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/96-97-SUBARU-LEGACY-2-5L-DOHC-EJ25-TIMING-BELT-KIT-/300682837485?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item460217fded&vxp=mtr the importexperts you can call and add or subtract from the kit what you want and they'll adjust the kit accordingly. you'll have better clearance for installing if you loosen the two 14mm engine mount nuts underneath and remove the one bolts from the pitch stopped up top right behind the throttle body, dead center of the engine bay. then jack the engine up a few inches. removing is one thing, but installing, keeping the surfaces perfectly clean and uncompromised, unscratched is another thing.

*** Preliminary - if you're only leaking coolant externally then change the coolant and add two bottles of Subaru's coolant conditioner, it'll stop existing leaks (if they're not atrocious). Don't do anything else though, either that or the following: 1. Subaru EJ25 TURBO headgaskets (yes you can install them on non-turbo engines and they don't have headgasket issues) 2. Do NOT replace Subaru headbolts, complete waste of time and you're probably getting inferior metal compared to the OEM headbolts. The one person I saw last year replace headbotls had the heads blow again already....aftermarket bolts probably weren't to blame, but they shouldn't make you feel any better about the job either. 3. Add Subaru's Coolant Conditioner - it's required for that motor. 4. Resurface the heads - the non-turbo's never need "checked", they're always fine to use - but they also almost always have high and low spots and should be resurfaced. There's a fantastic DIY thread for resurfacing the heads yourself on this forum and it's super-duper easy actually. Anyone replacing headbolts or suggesting it is borrowing specifications from other manufacturers, not Subaru specific. You're better off listening to folks very familiar and well versed with Subaru's and your exact engine. Do the above and it'll never need done again. Replacment of headbolts is materials and specifications specific...in Subaru's case they never need replacing.

if they're otherwise good i wouldn't hold an outlier situation against them too much.

You have torque bind and in automatic transmissions there are two causes. At this point you want to determine which of the two is your problem (although some folks find it most palatable to replace both anyway so diagnosis may not matter) (of course this test will only be adequate if the torque bind is constantly and known present...if it's intermittent then it could give some false indicators. Put the FWD fuse in the fuse holder on the passengers side strut tower. If the binding goes away then your clutches are sticking - and this is what changing the fluid often mitigates. If it doesn't go away the Duty C solenoid is the cause. More than likely my guess, with your good maintenance, it's a duty C solenoid, unlikely for the clutches to do this now after your good maintenance and proper tire maintenance.