idosubaru

it turns fine for maybe 45 degrees (at most) - so 1/8th turn, then tight, then a few degrees, then tight...so maybe easy and tight 5 times in a full turn lock to lock. ***it is rhythmic, meaning it seems the same rhythm and timing, and will always have 5 cycles per full turn as described above (or however many it is, i'm guessing on that). it is never variable or comes-and-goes and never feels different. wishful thinking has me wondering if just driving it might free something up since it has sat for a year and has some rust. i don't part out Soobs at all any more. i should have saved one!! no clue i've swapped racks before on older gen soobs - do you remember if the exhaust manifold has to come of to do it on EJ's? disconnect the hubs, really? seems like that would be inconclusive, it'll either still be there or be undetectable simply because it's no longer under any load? be easy if i didn't have rust to deal with though!

yes if you swap the Phase I 2.2 heads onto the Phase 2 block. but while i've done Phase I and Phase II swaps like that you need to proceed carefully due to clearance issues. but normally - no, like capnr mentioned the belts are different. you can use the Phase I tensioner on the Phase 2 block if you get the bracket that the tensioner bolts to - those are just attached to the block via a couple bolts. swap bracket and you can swap tensioner.

anyone know symptoms of a failed Subaru steering rack, is this plausible? i expected a couple people to have seen this before? i've never seen one fail before besides just leaking.

+1 book marked here too.

I think you have it backwards. Frankenmotors are typically EJ25 blocks with EJ22 heads, you're talking about doing the opposite which would not only reduce compression but give you those debacle of a nightmare heads to maintain - shim over bucket nearly non-adjustable valves that burn exhaust valves, more expensive timing belt, twice the cam bearing surfaces, plastic sprockets, and seals to fail, and almost positively heads that have been previously overheated.

this isn't slippage. has a new belt on it.

Already replaced the pump with no change of symptoms. Steering is predictably lumpy...good, very tight, good, very tight, good, very tight. No noises or other issues. I sprayed the ujoint with penetrant and no change in symptoms.

Call Subaru and ask them how much it would cost to replace two fuel injectors, they can answer that on the phone (don't tell them what you got quoted!). Not sure why it's costing so much, Subaru injector removal only takes a few minutes: http://www.witchhunter.com/subieremoval1.php4 http://www.weidefamily.net/vanagon/Pending_Content/Engine_Conversion/11Fuel_VacuumLine/SubaruFuelInjectorRemovalAndInstallation.pdf i'm with dave, no way i'd pay that much money for fuel injectors. i would check and make sure somewhere else can't do it much cheaper, sounds like it should cost less than half what they are quoting. Eat your $85, you at least got a diagnosis for it so it's not wasted money that would have taken an hour or two to track down...so you got your $85 worth. Move on.

***your converter does not need to be replaced*** yours being a 2005 you need to look into the RECALL for what i think is those year vehicles. some folks get their ECU reprogrammed and new converters installed FREE. for instance: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/23818-update-ecm-recall-p0420.html if the above doesn't work out for some reason, do the $5 easy fix for this code, one extension installed and you're done. clean up any leaks and be smart about it of course but don't waste your time, this code is a debacle for most Subarus...though the 2005's or whatever the recalls apply to are a bit different animal due to that recall. Free....or $5....this thing could be fixed. Pretty simple. I would never in a million years replace those converters, Subaru converter failure is UNBELIEVABLY rare, folks replacing the converters are plain stupid. If you actually ran them through an emissions test they would pass.

oh yeah wasn't being hard at all...no poking meant at all, was genuinely surprised so i wasn't sure how to answer since i assumed you knew those swaps.

those splined stubby shafts are not failure points...even quarter century year old 80's Subarus aren't failing and all of them have the same original shafts in them. i'm not sure what problem you're tracking but, unless there's something really strange about your car, the splined stub shafts are not your issue.

at 200,000 now on my wagon and planning on 300,000 for it and my other sedan so might as well install them since i have themn.

one that's been converted. remove the front axles and put it in 4WD and you've got RWD.

I was thinking the same thing as Dave - you're kidding right? You didn't mention what years as there are different phases but we can infer since you didn't question dave that you're talking about a 96-99 Outback. 95 automatic or 96-98 with a single port ypipe and make sure the engine has EGR there is no rhyme or reason to 96-98 having EGR or not, but most that i see around here do have EGR so lots of easy 96-98 options too.

he's posted in this thread and is running an EJ conversion: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=134417&highlight=propane+conversion another guy that's done a couple EJ conversions in CA: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=13480&highlight=propane+conversion&page=2 i found lots of hits just here searching for propane conversions. there were a bunch more if you search.

I was replacing a pump on a 99 Legacy and when i received a used one in the mail it also had a pigtail/sensor that was apparently supposed to plug in somewhere. But my 99 Legacy EJ22 didn't have that...odd.

Dave has already said he has a set, if he confirms that first then I'll take his, will let you know. $15 a piece and i want both.

do those help much? i have two sets of stainless steel hoses that i bought years ago and have never installed.

shaved, resurfaced, ground, whatever you want to call it - but they should have some material taken off - which is what i mean by resurface. they won't be that but but they won't be flat. use the DIY surfacing linked to here and keep going until you're done. GD's pictures show it well, high spots will hit the glass first and other lower spots won't get touched at all, they'll stay dirty/gray....you keep going until it's all uniform and flat. very simple to do. i've installed heads below limits, so while Fairtax posted the limit it's not the end all be all either. not that i'm recommending it but those limits aren't all that critical.

if you're doing it for the rear Ebrake then just get the nissan calipers that are an easy swap.

oh yeah i saw you had one you're parting out. $15 from Subaru so let me know if that's worth your time.

Here's a picture of the hood hinge I need for a 95-99 Legacy.

Thanks Josh, I sent him a PM with link to this thread. *** For that matter *** I can post a picture of my current hinges and he can simply look to see if they're different....i'll go do it now. Thanks Josh.

I have a 2002 H6 Outback that I bought wrecked, rebuilt it, and recertified it, and registered it. It had been run off road at a high speed. One of the rear arms was bent like that as well - so maybe that suggests it's common? In my case I left that alone and figured I'd work on it later once I got it on the road if I saw any tire wear, pulling, or other issues. 125,000 when I bought it. 200,000 miles right now. So far no issues after 70-80k, still runs great. The good thing about a wrecked EJ25 is that suggests the engine and trans were running decent before hand, no guarantee though but a good start.

get another motor. A lesser option is to bolt your heads to another EJ25 block...that's if you trust your overheated/oil compromised heads/cam bearing surfaces. 99-2001 EJ22's will swap into your forester as well. rebuilds are not cost effective either...not too mention extremely time consuming to do it properly.