idosubaru

if a tree fell on the car - you would all of a sudden not want that email to be binding, so don't get too amped up. sounds like an interesting seller and all, but i'd just move on. "accepted"....is so ambiguous it probably doesn't mean anything. He could say it would have been accepted if you showed up within an hour with cash at his doorstep, but you didn't...no time frame, no details (i could make a very long list, etc....email is not a contract and that email sounds particularly lacking. he's not (and don't forget equally that you're not) bound by anything. there's waaay too many variables and possibilities for that to hold any water. Yes, this. move on and be ready to buy with cash next time. If you want a good deal - have cash. Great deals move fast and you need to move fast too. Test driving and emailing an offer later is generally a good way to miss nearly every good deal out there.

i wouldn't buy a beater. properly maintained i think you can stave off the rust on yours. if you get a beater you'll want it to be a non-rust belt variety anyway so it doesn't test your resolve with rusty fasteners, drilling, torching, and welding. complete waste of time - spend that time maintaining yours properly. if you do get a beater, find one with no rust. rinse often (kind of hard when it's butt cold, damp, humid, windy, and miserable for a month though!). i would clean them well and have one dedicated for snow service. wash up under the wheel wells/fenders and make sure you don't have debris up under there. sticks, leaves, etc cram up in there and hold water/salt up against the metal. clean it all out. the rear quarters rust in the same place all the time from the inside of the fender well - properly treat that somehow, i'm sure some brilliant folks here with body/paint work will point the way if asked. that would be a great thread to read. let's start one. i've got 4 legacy's with that rust right now (as new as 2002 and 2003). i think impreza's are generally less cared for because they were cheaper cars and lower end models in general. I can see the perception though - but I don't think it's necessarily true..or I woudln't say it like that. "correlation does not mean causation" comes to mind. due to rust and unavailability of old stuff, the market doesn't support or hold on to cars nearly as long. old 80's stuff is junk out here, they've all rusted away so they appear archaic to a majority of people. i see some impreza's owned by folks who really wish they were STi's and drive them/treat them as such. you can find them chrome clad and winged up on craigslist. i think some of those things may add to the perception. but - i also have a bunch of legacy's right now with severe rust in the quarter panels, so they are easily prone to it as well. 4 to be exact, 95, 96, 2002, 2003. it's fairly safe - the water "delivers" it to the road. it washes off fairly quickly but this also depends on a lot of factors - even down to how the locals use salt. some salt heavier than others. if you live close to a government building with critical operations or hospital they care about or a ski resort you'll see more salt than back country road hill billy country. doesn't take long to wash off in general, it's very obvious and "white" on the roads in areas that salt heavily.

with one wheel off the ground therevis no difference. sounds reasonable that ujoint would be so rythmic. marking the ujoint thing sounds like a good idea too. how hard are the joints to replace?

it turns fine for maybe 45 degrees (at most) - so 1/8th turn, then tight, then a few degrees, then tight...so maybe easy and tight 5 times in a full turn lock to lock. ***it is rhythmic, meaning it seems the same rhythm and timing, and will always have 5 cycles per full turn as described above (or however many it is, i'm guessing on that). it is never variable or comes-and-goes and never feels different. wishful thinking has me wondering if just driving it might free something up since it has sat for a year and has some rust. i don't part out Soobs at all any more. i should have saved one!! no clue i've swapped racks before on older gen soobs - do you remember if the exhaust manifold has to come of to do it on EJ's? disconnect the hubs, really? seems like that would be inconclusive, it'll either still be there or be undetectable simply because it's no longer under any load? be easy if i didn't have rust to deal with though!

yes if you swap the Phase I 2.2 heads onto the Phase 2 block. but while i've done Phase I and Phase II swaps like that you need to proceed carefully due to clearance issues. but normally - no, like capnr mentioned the belts are different. you can use the Phase I tensioner on the Phase 2 block if you get the bracket that the tensioner bolts to - those are just attached to the block via a couple bolts. swap bracket and you can swap tensioner.

anyone know symptoms of a failed Subaru steering rack, is this plausible? i expected a couple people to have seen this before? i've never seen one fail before besides just leaking.

+1 book marked here too.

I think you have it backwards. Frankenmotors are typically EJ25 blocks with EJ22 heads, you're talking about doing the opposite which would not only reduce compression but give you those debacle of a nightmare heads to maintain - shim over bucket nearly non-adjustable valves that burn exhaust valves, more expensive timing belt, twice the cam bearing surfaces, plastic sprockets, and seals to fail, and almost positively heads that have been previously overheated.

this isn't slippage. has a new belt on it.

Already replaced the pump with no change of symptoms. Steering is predictably lumpy...good, very tight, good, very tight, good, very tight. No noises or other issues. I sprayed the ujoint with penetrant and no change in symptoms.

Call Subaru and ask them how much it would cost to replace two fuel injectors, they can answer that on the phone (don't tell them what you got quoted!). Not sure why it's costing so much, Subaru injector removal only takes a few minutes: http://www.witchhunter.com/subieremoval1.php4 http://www.weidefamily.net/vanagon/Pending_Content/Engine_Conversion/11Fuel_VacuumLine/SubaruFuelInjectorRemovalAndInstallation.pdf i'm with dave, no way i'd pay that much money for fuel injectors. i would check and make sure somewhere else can't do it much cheaper, sounds like it should cost less than half what they are quoting. Eat your $85, you at least got a diagnosis for it so it's not wasted money that would have taken an hour or two to track down...so you got your $85 worth. Move on.

***your converter does not need to be replaced*** yours being a 2005 you need to look into the RECALL for what i think is those year vehicles. some folks get their ECU reprogrammed and new converters installed FREE. for instance: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/23818-update-ecm-recall-p0420.html if the above doesn't work out for some reason, do the $5 easy fix for this code, one extension installed and you're done. clean up any leaks and be smart about it of course but don't waste your time, this code is a debacle for most Subarus...though the 2005's or whatever the recalls apply to are a bit different animal due to that recall. Free....or $5....this thing could be fixed. Pretty simple. I would never in a million years replace those converters, Subaru converter failure is UNBELIEVABLY rare, folks replacing the converters are plain stupid. If you actually ran them through an emissions test they would pass.

oh yeah wasn't being hard at all...no poking meant at all, was genuinely surprised so i wasn't sure how to answer since i assumed you knew those swaps.

those splined stubby shafts are not failure points...even quarter century year old 80's Subarus aren't failing and all of them have the same original shafts in them. i'm not sure what problem you're tracking but, unless there's something really strange about your car, the splined stub shafts are not your issue.

at 200,000 now on my wagon and planning on 300,000 for it and my other sedan so might as well install them since i have themn.

one that's been converted. remove the front axles and put it in 4WD and you've got RWD.

I was thinking the same thing as Dave - you're kidding right? You didn't mention what years as there are different phases but we can infer since you didn't question dave that you're talking about a 96-99 Outback. 95 automatic or 96-98 with a single port ypipe and make sure the engine has EGR there is no rhyme or reason to 96-98 having EGR or not, but most that i see around here do have EGR so lots of easy 96-98 options too.

he's posted in this thread and is running an EJ conversion: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=134417&highlight=propane+conversion another guy that's done a couple EJ conversions in CA: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=13480&highlight=propane+conversion&page=2 i found lots of hits just here searching for propane conversions. there were a bunch more if you search.

I was replacing a pump on a 99 Legacy and when i received a used one in the mail it also had a pigtail/sensor that was apparently supposed to plug in somewhere. But my 99 Legacy EJ22 didn't have that...odd.

Dave has already said he has a set, if he confirms that first then I'll take his, will let you know. $15 a piece and i want both.

do those help much? i have two sets of stainless steel hoses that i bought years ago and have never installed.

shaved, resurfaced, ground, whatever you want to call it - but they should have some material taken off - which is what i mean by resurface. they won't be that but but they won't be flat. use the DIY surfacing linked to here and keep going until you're done. GD's pictures show it well, high spots will hit the glass first and other lower spots won't get touched at all, they'll stay dirty/gray....you keep going until it's all uniform and flat. very simple to do. i've installed heads below limits, so while Fairtax posted the limit it's not the end all be all either. not that i'm recommending it but those limits aren't all that critical.

if you're doing it for the rear Ebrake then just get the nissan calipers that are an easy swap.

oh yeah i saw you had one you're parting out. $15 from Subaru so let me know if that's worth your time.

Here's a picture of the hood hinge I need for a 95-99 Legacy.