idosubaru

fortunately this thing isn't perfect anyway so it's not a big deal but i am terrible at this kind of stuff. okay, blending happens inside taping area, makes sense, i'll give that a try.

didn't take any special tools to disassemble the one i took apart for kicks. disassemble it and see if anything obvious sticks out.

that's awesome, can you take a picture? (i'm being serious). so you have one wire running to a cigarette lighter and you simply push that lighter into the cigarette receptacle and then turn the key and the car starts? so it's powering the solenoid or....?

if you're just going to install another one - first i'd try tightening the existing fitting. all it is is like a 10 mm (i think) wrench or flare wrench. just tighten it and see what happens. might be loose and snugging it up does the trick, nothing to loose to try it. without seeing it, it's hard to say, but it's hard to imagine there being anything "wrong" with the connection there, it's not like it's magic or crazy technical stuff going on there - it's just basic fastener stuff. snug it up. if it doesn't work, then move on with the new one.

not real familiar with 92's but something like this won't be year specific. they're usually used in multiple years/models.

i would remove the problem fitting, trace the threads on the brake line fitting with a die and the threads in the ABS block with a tap. then rethread it. should be fine if you do that. unfortunately with multiple lines you'll probably have to remove the entire thing to do that, but they're not that hard to get too - you'll just have to bleed the system once you're done. but even that's not the end of the world. you could just try tightening it, but i wouldn't do that unless it just happens to seem really loose and turns easily. the control units almost never fail, so buying new would be nearly idiotic (sorry, just being honest). get a used one, there's no demand since they never fail so they're hardly worth more than $25 or so.

i would verify it's the ignition switch before swapping in another, they're not terrible but sort of a pain. they have to be drilled out. electronics is a weak point for me so not sure how to verify it.

it's down by the drivers side below the ujoint thing - where the steering shaft passes into the cross member - somewhere around there. it's on the steering box there. i saw a comment once that the rack had to be removed to replace the spring inside of that adjustment screw. personally i didn't believe the entire rack had to come out but that was from a dealership.

got a 2inch circle down to bare metal on my hood. how do i paint it? do i just sand, prime, paint, clear coat that tiny area? do you blend the primer, paint, and clear coat? y'all helped me paint an entire hood and fender after i hit a deer, but not sure how to address a small spot.

nah, it's pretty rare for subarus to have steering rack problems. i've never seen it and only heard of it like once. if adjusting that screw helped something more ominous is probably up with it. have you crawled under to hear where the clicking comes from during the turning? it's not the steering rack ujoint? those fail sometimes.

rack and pinion backlash adjustment.

in my experience there's no way to pound the axle out without destroying the threads on the axle. if it's a bad one it's going to need more than that can give it. stuff soft enough to protect the axle (wood) just splinters before the axle even thinks about moving. threading anything on the threads also destroys them because of how much force it's going to take. but i live in the rust belt too. 20 ton press.....i'm not surprised based on some of the ones i've messed with. i would think a press - brute force/proper tool method - is the way to go...but you're saying sometimes that doesn't work. what a mess.

they just pop out of the rear diff, held in with a circlip. just yank and they come out. a press, puller, or heat are probably what you need to get it out. they get insanely tight. much pounding at all on the axle will render the axle nut threads useless. good luck, these can be frustrating.

not a big deal. the diffs need fluid, not much to them really. keep them filled with clean fluid and they'll treat you right.

:lol: that's awesome, did you just leave it like that? that's fantastic, i almost want my XT6 to do that.

what exactly is happening? i'm having a hard time picturing turning the key off, pulling it out, and the car still runs? seems like it would be ignition related. i can't picture one relay keeping the fuel pump and ignition rolling.

check the parts wanted forum if JCE doesn't have it. davebugs has 95-99 legacy body panels.

get a used transmission. they don't fail enough to warrant the price of new. demand isn't high (due to low failures) so the prices are low. although 99's tend to be problematic because yards don't cross reference what other years will interchange well. we can help you with that possibly. friend of mine in WV has a known good trans he'd sell cheap. surely someone out there will have one as well. call around for install prices too - particularly transmission shops. a local transmission shop in maryland would only charge $150 to install your supplied used transmission (that was 8 years ago). they were typically expensive for trans work but an install is easy for them since they have all the equipment. GD (username for someone on here) is in Portland Oregon, knows his stuff and would probably fix this car for you. he's reasonable, knows how to do it right, and how to spend money wisely on stuff like this. it'll be worth the effort to get the car to him if you can.

you can rotate either way - truthfully, you're better off (not knowing anything else), just backing it up the way it came from, you know that won't be a problem, rather than rotate it through the rest of the way. drop in the bucket either way, doesn't matter if the crank is properly set.

your motor does not need white lines to run! go paint them with black paint on the old belt, that should solve the problem. the marks are only for install, after that they are not needed nor do they line up, except once every few hundred/thousand revolutions or something. you can calculate it out if you want. they're only meant for install and nothing else. did you google it or ask subaru? they frequently change parts numbers/update part numbers. they'll tell you if the old number/part is superceded (common).

yeah just rotate it back where it came from.

yes. the rear bolts look impossible to get to with the hood in place so i didn't try that.

just get regular rubber or Subaru bushings or order them from rockauto or thepartsbin.com. i've never noticed any difference with the steering rack bushings. my *guess* is that comes more with sway bar end links or something that sees more movement. i've read that before too and have no interest in noises.

sounds like the steering shaft ujoint. does it have any binding/noises when turning the wheel while sitting still? squeeling while backing up? brake wear indicator? that sounds odd.

they're not that difficult to replace. i'd call it a 3 on a level of 1-10, not hard at all. almost positive i've done it before by not removing much of anything. remove the brackets holding the steering rack in place and slide the old bushings out (if any remains ) and slide the new ones in. tight getting them in, but i recall getting them to slide in without removing the entire rack or anything - just remove the two brackets that hold the bushings in place. i used whiteline bushings i think they were called - they're yellow and aftermarket. what i can't recall is if you have to unbolt the exhaust manifold to get to them, but that's not a big deal either.