idosubaru

not real familiar with 92's but something like this won't be year specific. they're usually used in multiple years/models.

i would remove the problem fitting, trace the threads on the brake line fitting with a die and the threads in the ABS block with a tap. then rethread it. should be fine if you do that. unfortunately with multiple lines you'll probably have to remove the entire thing to do that, but they're not that hard to get too - you'll just have to bleed the system once you're done. but even that's not the end of the world. you could just try tightening it, but i wouldn't do that unless it just happens to seem really loose and turns easily. the control units almost never fail, so buying new would be nearly idiotic (sorry, just being honest). get a used one, there's no demand since they never fail so they're hardly worth more than $25 or so.

i would verify it's the ignition switch before swapping in another, they're not terrible but sort of a pain. they have to be drilled out. electronics is a weak point for me so not sure how to verify it.

it's down by the drivers side below the ujoint thing - where the steering shaft passes into the cross member - somewhere around there. it's on the steering box there. i saw a comment once that the rack had to be removed to replace the spring inside of that adjustment screw. personally i didn't believe the entire rack had to come out but that was from a dealership.

got a 2inch circle down to bare metal on my hood. how do i paint it? do i just sand, prime, paint, clear coat that tiny area? do you blend the primer, paint, and clear coat? y'all helped me paint an entire hood and fender after i hit a deer, but not sure how to address a small spot.

nah, it's pretty rare for subarus to have steering rack problems. i've never seen it and only heard of it like once. if adjusting that screw helped something more ominous is probably up with it. have you crawled under to hear where the clicking comes from during the turning? it's not the steering rack ujoint? those fail sometimes.

rack and pinion backlash adjustment.

in my experience there's no way to pound the axle out without destroying the threads on the axle. if it's a bad one it's going to need more than that can give it. stuff soft enough to protect the axle (wood) just splinters before the axle even thinks about moving. threading anything on the threads also destroys them because of how much force it's going to take. but i live in the rust belt too. 20 ton press.....i'm not surprised based on some of the ones i've messed with. i would think a press - brute force/proper tool method - is the way to go...but you're saying sometimes that doesn't work. what a mess.

they just pop out of the rear diff, held in with a circlip. just yank and they come out. a press, puller, or heat are probably what you need to get it out. they get insanely tight. much pounding at all on the axle will render the axle nut threads useless. good luck, these can be frustrating.

not a big deal. the diffs need fluid, not much to them really. keep them filled with clean fluid and they'll treat you right.

:lol: that's awesome, did you just leave it like that? that's fantastic, i almost want my XT6 to do that.

what exactly is happening? i'm having a hard time picturing turning the key off, pulling it out, and the car still runs? seems like it would be ignition related. i can't picture one relay keeping the fuel pump and ignition rolling.

check the parts wanted forum if JCE doesn't have it. davebugs has 95-99 legacy body panels.

get a used transmission. they don't fail enough to warrant the price of new. demand isn't high (due to low failures) so the prices are low. although 99's tend to be problematic because yards don't cross reference what other years will interchange well. we can help you with that possibly. friend of mine in WV has a known good trans he'd sell cheap. surely someone out there will have one as well. call around for install prices too - particularly transmission shops. a local transmission shop in maryland would only charge $150 to install your supplied used transmission (that was 8 years ago). they were typically expensive for trans work but an install is easy for them since they have all the equipment. GD (username for someone on here) is in Portland Oregon, knows his stuff and would probably fix this car for you. he's reasonable, knows how to do it right, and how to spend money wisely on stuff like this. it'll be worth the effort to get the car to him if you can.

you can rotate either way - truthfully, you're better off (not knowing anything else), just backing it up the way it came from, you know that won't be a problem, rather than rotate it through the rest of the way. drop in the bucket either way, doesn't matter if the crank is properly set.

your motor does not need white lines to run! go paint them with black paint on the old belt, that should solve the problem. the marks are only for install, after that they are not needed nor do they line up, except once every few hundred/thousand revolutions or something. you can calculate it out if you want. they're only meant for install and nothing else. did you google it or ask subaru? they frequently change parts numbers/update part numbers. they'll tell you if the old number/part is superceded (common).

yeah just rotate it back where it came from.

yes. the rear bolts look impossible to get to with the hood in place so i didn't try that.

just get regular rubber or Subaru bushings or order them from rockauto or thepartsbin.com. i've never noticed any difference with the steering rack bushings. my *guess* is that comes more with sway bar end links or something that sees more movement. i've read that before too and have no interest in noises.

sounds like the steering shaft ujoint. does it have any binding/noises when turning the wheel while sitting still? squeeling while backing up? brake wear indicator? that sounds odd.

they're not that difficult to replace. i'd call it a 3 on a level of 1-10, not hard at all. almost positive i've done it before by not removing much of anything. remove the brackets holding the steering rack in place and slide the old bushings out (if any remains ) and slide the new ones in. tight getting them in, but i recall getting them to slide in without removing the entire rack or anything - just remove the two brackets that hold the bushings in place. i used whiteline bushings i think they were called - they're yellow and aftermarket. what i can't recall is if you have to unbolt the exhaust manifold to get to them, but that's not a big deal either.

right on, H6 has coil on plug - no plug wires at all.

at first glance it seems like it but it's not that odd that the fluid leak and ripped boot *appear* at the same time. the ripped boot could have caused moisture/contamination of the seal or the seal could have started leaking and the extra fluid inside the boot was the last straw for a 15 year old boot already close to wearing out. if you don't want to do the job twice, just get a used rack and install it now. although - personally subaru racks rarely fail and so i assume they are very robust. if i ever have one leak again like this i'm just adding some of that stop-leak stuff to it and see if that seals it up. replacing the boot is pretty much useless on it's own to stop the leak, just as you surmised that is just a dust boot, there shouldn't be any fluid in there. either add the fluid or swap in another rack, that leak is highly unlikely to go away. maybe you could get a super duty boot that can hold fluid, let it fill up and then it won't leak any more.

2003 Legacy GT wagon - the gap between the hood and fenders could use some adjustment left to right. The gap between the hood and drivers side fender is tiny and the other side is larger - but it's all straight so it's like the hood needs to come a few millimeters to the passengers side. Is that possible? I unbolted the 4 bolts holding the hood to the hinges and that barely gave any adjustment at all. Bend the hinges?

copy, thanks GD. i was busy so i was guiding him through the ordeal and only helping as needed. i'll look into the rest of the options.