idosubaru

how long has it been doing it? what's the history of the motor - ever overheated or run low on oil, long oil change intervals? should get louder before it blows so you *should* have some time. check the timing tensioner too, when they fail the tensioner can start and "knocking" as it gives on various loads. though the EJ18 style rarely fails, it's worth a look since tensioners also can do it under load like this.

"there have a flood coolant by pinion"...what does "by pinion" mean? sounds like you may be seeing coolant leaking externally? in that case i'd look at intake manifold gaskets like Miles said. get them from Subaru, the aftermarket ones are usually thin cardboard-like crap. what headgasket did you use? Subaru or other? what engine? there's 5 possibilities.

unreliable is the key word. there's different digital dashes too, some harder to read than others. the fuel sender is the trickiest one to come by, being in the fuel tank, very helpful for a daily driver, and trickiest to work around/install aftermarket in it's place.

+1 actually you can do that once they're failed and completely locked up you can remove the rear driveshaft and just run it as a FWD.....or remove the front axles and run it as RWD. yours doesn't sound completely hosed yet though?

yes - it's required by Subaru. it's still used even in their newer engines and the newer coolant. use it.

cruise control computers are manual or automatic specific. get a cruise control computer from a manual transmission vehicle.

impreza and legacy transmissions are interchangeable, though impreza's tend to have lower final drive ratios. an impreza *may* be more likely to have 3.9's instead of my Legacy's with the 4.11's. still interchangeable, just different final driver ratio - would have to swap the rear diff.....or front!!! AH!!!:

if you did the heads right and the timing belt marks are dead on you have nothing to worry about. what you're describing is not a standardized test, i wouldn't worry about it. if the valves are slightly opened and the pistons are receding then maybe. which way are you turning it over by hand? did you try both ways?

it's still driveable....go drift into a tree now, it's your only chance!!! while as ridiculous and insane as that is - at least you got to witness it, it'll be worth countless stories and anecdotes into the future! i chased down a guy trying to steal a jeep in atlanta, it ended awesome but in retrospect is stupid. a cornered animal is not a good thing - if they have a weapon you better hope you're quicker and lucky. i tackled him after about half a mile and i guess someone had called the cops because they were there in like a minute after i tackled him. i also had the most fortunate circumstance of like 10 or so friends watching this unfold and two of them following behind (i'm fast) watching me knock the crack head ghetto punk to the ground.

"east"? rust can be terrible here too. you can have cars shipped, i had one shipped from the west coast last year for $600. you're expanding your options so it's not hard to find a good deal that makes up for the cost of shipping. most folks don't want to put forth that effort though either way.

jack it up and rest it on some blocks or something more sturdy. if it's not up to the task then go get one. they're not worth anything, i throw them away, so someone will have one cheap and you'll want one that works anyway. you don't want a flat with no jack. seems easier than peddling for time/jack when it's something you really should have anyway.

any regular EA82 strut assemblies are what you need. they're completely interchangeable. you'll probably need an entire used strut assembly with strut, coils, top hats, spacers, washers, and nuts - that seems really annoying to piece all of that together. post in the parts wanted forum, surely someone has some old sets lying around to sell you, possibly even with blown struts so they can part them out so to speak.

you can leave it unplugged (no computer at all) and it'll default to running in 3rd gear. i've driven cars for a long time like that. they're gutless from a start but otherwise drive fine. ***4WD's are a little different and need some work arounds but you don't have to worry about that. all that to say - it'll definitely be drivable, so you'll have a driver while you try to figure out the computer if you just want to drop it in. if you're doing the wiring for the ECU then it's probably not that hard for you to do the wiring for the TCU right? i'd just get an FSM pinout for the trans and wire up what you need. you'll have all the proper EJ inputs fromt he engine,TPS so that's nice. loyale's are all 3AT trans right so you don't have the option of using the existing early gen 4EAT like some EA82 vehicles have i don't think? 4WD TCU's run FWD trans just fine (been there, done that) so that expands your options for TCU's if you need it.

i'm not sure how they're supposed to breathe but he's got you covered there. i've done 4 CV's in like a week and i was wondering about that. after installing the boot, the first time it heats up it's probably pushing air out somewhere but when it cools and needs more air, it's easier to collapse...or something like that.

with the exception of the RX, those GL-10 turbo wagons are the most common to have the rear LSD. sounds like that's what you have. they say LSD right on the tag, should be really obvious by just looking at it. to test: jack the rear of the car up, both rear wheels off the ground and spin one tire, if: A the other side spins the same direction it's an LSD rear end B the other wheel spins the opposite direction it's an open diff (or non working LSD)

hocrest (also a member here and knows his stuff) also seems to suggest 90-98 should not incur too many glitches: http://www.sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=70&t=9526&start=0 you'll want to make sure final drive ratio is the same or swap the rear diff to match if it's different. i'm not sure about those early gen legacy's but most later legacy EJ22 auto's are 4.11 final drive ratio. yours is going to be 3.9 or 4.11.

****edit to add more info: hocrest (also a member here and knows his stuff) also seems to suggest 90-98 should not incur too many glitches: http://www.sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=70&t=9526&start=0 you'll want to make sure final drive ratio is the same or swap the rear diff to match if it's different. i'm not sure about those early gen legacy's but most later legacy EJ22 auto's are 4.11 final drive ratio. yours is going to be 3.9 or 4.11. this site suggests not too many differences between 1990-1998: http://www.ecutune.com/4eat.htm A subaru .pdf I found also mentioned 89-90 changes but nothing afterwards (but who knows when it was written).

Subaru's went OBDII in 1995, that's engine side of things but easily may have affected trans stuff too. how much, who knows. looking at the pin outs might be the thing to do - compare the early ones to the later ones. my hard drive crashed, haven't uploaded all of my FSM's or i'd look at them real quick. a guy down-under on the subaruxt.com forum swapped in a newer automatic transmission into an XT6 - and even older variant of the 4EAT transmission - the first "generation" so to speak. he never gave specifics, said he swapped wiring harness stuff, and was going to send me a write up on how he did it - but never did. i followed up multiple times and he never got back to me.

you can try to adjust the backlash before pulling it all back apart. Gloyale is fairly knowledgeable about that i believe and has posted some threads about it. you dial in the front axle seal retainers to adjust backlash so it doesn't require much work. you would just pull the axles off the trans (easy - just remove the top strut mount bolts, loosen the lower and that'll be enough to pull the axle right off the trans). then you remove the one hold down bolt and turn that large retaining ring to adjust backlash. i'm not sure if you can "guess" or adjust that way rather than actually measuring it, but maybe. you're supposed to attach a dial gauge through the front diff drain hole to measure it. a turn or so of the rings on one side or the other or both should get it where it needs to be. i've seen comments about it before but can't recall specifics.

that picture doesn't show the hub, but that will be in the bearings. but you're replacing the entire thing. should include all seals. only tricky part appears to be the hub/bearings wanting to stick to the backing plate. here's a picture of the tool to use to pull it out: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/23698-rear-wheel-bearing-replacement-01-obw.html here's some discussion on this exact bearing: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/81-wheels-tires-brakes-suspension/26156-2001-rear-wheel-bearing-replacement-2.html

oh yeah, the newer style rear bearings are much simpler. it's the older styles (like pre 99 or somewhere around there) that are more complicated and have special tools available. a call to Subaru parts department and they'd let you know if you need any seals, clips, etc to complete the job. yours should be a straight forward process, here's a picture of what you're getting into. http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b12/type_18/suspension_and_axle/rear_suspension/illustration_1/ you'll be bolting the bearing assembly onto the trailing arm. that diagram doesn't have a number, but the bearing assembly is just above and to the left of the number "18". you probably have them on hand to look at.

front or rear? you said you bought two complete hub/bearing/housing assemblies, if that's the case it should be a bolt on affair since you're not actually replacing any bearings individually. swapping hubs is fairly easy if you don't have to deal with rust. if it's the front i'd get a pickle fork for the ball joints, they are often a huge waste of time trying to get them out of the control arm/hub. if you like quick jobs, just get a new ball joint to install at the same time so you're not fumbling to save the old one. it's not necessary to replace both if only one is bad. if the other side isnt' making noise then it's obviously not compromised and there's absolutely no need to replace it.

does it sounds like the clicking could be from the front diff? you're a beast for swapping the front diff! was the axle just a different spline count? what trans could it possibly be from - maybe the clicking is because it's a toyota transmission!? auto stub axles pull right out in 2 seconds, only retained by a circlip. the manual trans are different and do not pull out.

how did you end up with a trans that required different axles...that doesn't even exist that i know of - all EJ18, EJ22, EJ25 front auto axles are interchangeable? not sure how the axle could be different. the clicking could the front diff - did you literally swap the entire front diff? did you set the backlash on it properly? if not that probably needs to be done. too late now but rather than swap front diffs it would have been easier to: swap axles instead or swap the stubby shafts - they simply pull out of the trans, you can pull one out, pop one in. or run it RWD by leaving the axles out and cutting power to the Duty C solenoid, locking up the rear transfer clutches. :lol:

no. well - depends what you mean by "good". would you like me to buy one of these with a blown motor and install an EJ22 in it for you!?