idosubaru

I realize JB weld is an option. It's a small hole so maybe I'll consider it later but would rather here comments on a proper repair. My Kubota tractor has a small bubbling leak right where the top radiator inlet (for the hose) connects to the top metal tank. How nice of it to leak with easy access, when does that ever happen!? ! I have a welder but not sure what kind of metal I got here. Not sure if radiator materials are standard or how I can check, if I can weld it, etc? Radiator shops are sparse and out of the way where I live.

i have a wrecked fender and hood - not sure if the hood metal is useable or not, it's like two ply i imagine. i'll figure something out, you guys have given me enough options no doubt. looks like the neighbor has some trucks being parted out/repaired too.

what is cupping/scalloping again? hope it holds for you. i had mine aligned, it was out and still appears to be wearing oddly. i'll have to check, seems to be wearing on the outside...but seems like it's only happening in the summer? anyway - was curious how closely mine is to yours?

when it's overheating do you get hot air if you turned the heat on - obviously it should be blazing hot given the overheating. Subaru or aftermarket headgasket? Subaru or aftermarket tstat (aftermarkets are visibly weak). stop and go overheating suggests an air flow issue. when it gets hot again with the a/c on you need to make sure both radiator fans are kicking on. fan failure or relay seems most likely. it's possible the radiator is partially clogged as well. they're only $90 or so (or the 2000 Forester one i bought last year was anyway) from radiatorbarn.com and super easy to replace. only two bolts actually hold the radiator in place - other than that you just remove the fans first. 4 10mm bolts for each fan, disconnect wire plug for each fan, two bolts for overflow tank, then two radiator bolts up top and the thing just sits in grommets on two pegs at the base so it easily pulls right out. my experience with clogged radiators though suggests overheating over high loads - like HOT outside, a/c on and temperature gauge climbs when going up a hill, goes down when going down hill - it can't keep up with the extra demand. it's usually very predictable like that - based on temps and load (a/c, hills, accelerating). this engine also requires Subaru's coolant conditioner. if it wasn't added when the thermostat was done last year or you don't know, add another bottle.

good point - do not even think about using a bolt extractor - those things are terrible. they are worthless as a tool and more importantly if they shear off (which they often do because the'they're strong...but very brittle - then you got a real big problem on your hand.) i say they're worthless not because they can't remove something - but because they're not very good - anything that a bolt extractor can remove can be removed by various other methods. so it's not worth the risk considering how hard a sheared off bolt extractor is to remove. high quality left handed drill bits are amazing and worth every penny. but they are hard to get, i've never been able to find them for sale locally. gotta order what you want depending where you live.

i've got some extensive posts about how to deal with these, i've done a bunch like this and have succeeded every time. don't have time to reiterate everything i've done but really quickly: 1. can you get longer drill bits? doesn't matter if you round out the intake mani hole some, it'll still hold fine. 2. wedge a sawzall between the intake manifold and head. the head and intake manifold can be resurfaced back to smooth. the width of the blade (minus width of the gasket) won't be enough to ruin it if you're careful. 3. heat would probably be nice.

when you jumper the compressor on - did it blow cold air? check the sensor nipper mentioned and the pressure sensors, should be simple to test those or jumper them to see if it then turns on. the a/c button in the dash is good? make sure the system isn't overcharged now that you've been having issues.

it'll all work out - the 4 you need line up, so just use those 4 and you're golden. wait GD there is a difference - the EJ22 horsepower went from 135 to 137 between 1995 and 1998. like he said the Phase II 99 Ej22 is not compatible with yours at all. the EJ18 only has 110 hp for comparison to my experiences.

awesome, thanks rob i have some old computers too. some flourescent light fixtures were replaced too and i can probably pilfer some of those for metal too. got a wrecked fender/hood that might work if there's enough good metal left.

if the thermostat regulates engine temperature then i don't think you'd see any improvements even with an upgraded cooling system - the tstat is still going to hold the engine side to 195 degrees regardless of what you do to the cooling system. if you're towing, forced induction or autocrossing and exceeding the limits of the stock system then you might need more to keep overheating down.

i've seen some of your posts and pictures miles - how do you do the rivet work/patching? i doubt i'll weld, i can't imagine getting it to look right/set flush and grinding down the weld...seems like a mess. time is key here, i don't want this to take all day. i'm just doing small areas in low visibility areas (bottom of car) - like 5x5" and most if it will be covered up by mudflaps so i'm not that worried about cosmetics. get the rust out, water proof it and paint it something close to match. not a show car.

good question. i went even further so i'll comment on mine - i swapped an EJ18 into my Legacy LSi that originally had an EJ25D - so same swap as you just with an even smaller motor. it is gutless but here's my personal take on it: i don't even think about it in flatland. when we drive to ohio and indiana, down south in georgia and florida - it's awesome, don't even notice it. but i'm not a speed demon, accelerating fast person - i just want good, reliable, cheap transportation (as you can tell by all the states i've driven it too recently) that isn't annoying to drive. around here, i live in the mountains of WV and the steep grades kill it. it's still one of my two daily drivers. it's fine but slow on the steep mountains around here, and it's annoying taking off with people coming or downshifting a lot. if i had it to do again i'd drop in an EJ22 instead just because of the mountains. if i was living in flatland i'd keep it the same. i get 30-32 mpg in flat areas (with an automatic) and only 23-28 highway in the mountains (varies a lot based on how fast i drive). but that's all with an even smaller underpowered motor. i think it'll come down to your personal preference. it'll be perfectly drivable in your flat area and i would personally be fine with the loss of 14hp being behind a MT and in flatland. but if you like to accelerate fast and drive aggressive you might want the 14hp. if you're going to travel a lot, tow, carry heavy loads...then that might sway your decision too. i have a family so i'm carrying wife, kids, strollers, bikes, packed pretty full usually too.

with a 10 mm head.

the one FWD XT MT i saw was 23, guess they just mixed it up between auto/manual? hope the 3AT or something works out for you. wonder if any foreign market jokers would have something, like they used different combo's over there? or maybe 4EAT's just never got 23's.

nice work. what is the retrofit, quill, sleeve stuff all about? i've been around boards forever and have never heard mention of that.

or have a shop weld it in place for you. all muffler shops have the bungs on hand or they're the same as O2 sensors and you can make your own at the autoparts store.

oh yeah you're golden. you can swap EA82 short blocks all day long. if the 93 loyale exhaust is currently bolted up to the 93 loyale heads then yes it'll work. exhaust bolts to heads, so it is indifferent to the block. if you're mixing and matching something else then it may differ.

well yes. as for the really new stuff like 2005 plus i'm not sure.

plug and play EJ22 swap: 1995 with EGR (for this one year all automatics have EGR) 1996-1998 with EGR and get the exhaust manifold with it. follow the above and it's plug and play swap. EJ25D and EJ22 intakes are not interchangeable. use EJ25 flexplate on EJ22 engine. from 1996-1998 there's no definitive way to determine which have EGR - but 90%+ in my area have EGR for these years. the earlier style tensioner is cheaper and far more reliable than the newer style tensioners which suck in my opinion. $80 timing belt kits instead of $200. and non-interference. interference/non interference isn't a huge deal if the engine is properly maintained. at 15+ years old all the timing pulleys and tensioner should be replaced. do that and you have nothing to worry about. probably the water pump too, though they rarely fail in EJ engines it's a good idea on interference engines where the tbelt drives the water pump.

those orings or a compressor has fixed every single non-working a/c system i'v ever fixed (and it's been quite a few). i've replaced two condensors - but i hardly count those as diagnostic repairs since they were due to puncture/accidents. subaru a/c systems don't seem to have too many failures. there are some newer ones i think that has a sensor go bad on them - the sensor on the compressor i think subaru has a technical service bulletin about it. but i think that's a 2000+ model.

yes, make sure you use the thicker subaru headgasket - part number ends in 610.

subaru master cylinders don't fail very often but i guess it's possible it's leaking internally?

use an EJ25 ECU? over here EJ25 and EJ22 ECU's are completely interchangeable, i've never even noticed a difference. also over here EJ22 and EJ25's use the same plugs so they're plug and play interchangeable. if you used something later you may not have to worry about wiring.

where do you get sheet metal for rust repair? like just flat sheets for welding/riveting into place?

i always get the a/c oring kits - they're green so i guess they convinced me they're different . not sure if it matters though, but might want to check. i highly doubt it'll matter any time soon. if you just charge it it'll work fine. so charge it to make sure you got the leak fixed then if you want it professionally vacuumed and charged do it once you verify it's not leaking any more after a few days. where was the condensor leaking? only ones i've ever seen leak were in an accident or punctured. they're all aluminum so they don't typically corroded or rust to the point of leaking. i'd like to know where the weak point is if one can just leak due to age.