idosubaru

subaru master cylinders don't fail very often but i guess it's possible it's leaking internally?

use an EJ25 ECU? over here EJ25 and EJ22 ECU's are completely interchangeable, i've never even noticed a difference. also over here EJ22 and EJ25's use the same plugs so they're plug and play interchangeable. if you used something later you may not have to worry about wiring.

where do you get sheet metal for rust repair? like just flat sheets for welding/riveting into place?

i always get the a/c oring kits - they're green so i guess they convinced me they're different . not sure if it matters though, but might want to check. i highly doubt it'll matter any time soon. if you just charge it it'll work fine. so charge it to make sure you got the leak fixed then if you want it professionally vacuumed and charged do it once you verify it's not leaking any more after a few days. where was the condensor leaking? only ones i've ever seen leak were in an accident or punctured. they're all aluminum so they don't typically corroded or rust to the point of leaking. i'd like to know where the weak point is if one can just leak due to age.

88-91 XT should do it. those would be non-turbo with 4EAT.

Subaru a/c systems are really robust and rarely have failures. i've only really seen two typical failures and one is far more common than the other. they are usually just low on charge...but this is usually caused by a leak. the good news is that the two most common leakage points are the two orings at the hose fittings on the compressor. i suppose it makes sense since those seem the most vibrations and heat cycling you don't get any easier to change or cheaper. one bolt and the hose end slides out of the compressor - pull it out and change the oring. wipe all the dirt/grit off from around the fitting before removing so it doesn't fall down into the compressor. often times if you're really careful you can tell where the leak was (but not always). the autoparts stores sell bags of generic a/c orings. just buy a bag and carefully match them up. last two non-working a/c subaru's i worked on were fixed by these orings. 2003 H6 OBW and a 2000 Forester. ironically i just drove my buddies 2003 home with me today....ice cold A/C - two new orings baby. what is sad is how many a/c systems i've fixed by replacing these two $1 orings....but every person i've ever known that's taken a non-working a/c to a shop is always billed many hundreds to fix it....based on my experience some of those were $300-$600 oring repairs. it's common enough that i would do it, charge it and see if it holds the charge. only takes 15 minutes to do all of that and you'll know if it's something more ominous or not. the other failure item is the compressor/clutch - which will reveal itself as working or not once you charge it. i've never personally seen another type of Subaru a/c failure...except a hole in a condensor...probably a puncture or previous accident.

sounds like the symptoms are nearly the same as before the headgasket job? (EJ22's do not blow headgaskets - but overheating will cause any headgasket to blow...) any check engine light? ***Misfires are generally caused by spark plugs or wires. These engines are notoriously unforgiving with spark plugs and usually folks stick with stock OEM NGK plugs and Subaru wires. Aftermarket wires are known to cause misfires (I've seen misfires with brand new aftermarket wires). how old are the plugs and wires? if they haven't been replaced any time soon they could be the culprit. you *typically* get a check engine light for misfires, but not 100% of the time. did you check for a vacuum leak yet? spray carb cleaner or some other spray around the engine bay and see if the idle/starting changes? the ATF light blinked 16 times - it will blink 16 times at start up (if there's a problem) - that tells you there's a stored code. you'll have to do the specific hand-shake routine to get it to spit the actual codes for you- it won't do it on it's own. get us as much *important* information as you can, like answering the question about the check engine light. we can't help if you don't answer questions. we're good but not magicians - without seeing, touching, hearing the car we're really limited.

does that fluid heating coming from hydraulic action in the master cylinder or caliper operation? what vehicle? sounds like you're pushing it hard - but lots of folks offroad, carry enormous loads, auto-crossing, racing.....and not going to DOT 5. seems to suggest you might be able to help your situation some other ways as well. now for anecdotal nonsense: i climbed up and down an offroad mountain access road elk hunting in colorado for miles without any brake issues in my XT6....and i was pulling like 1,500 pounds of trailer, 4 wheeler, tent, wood stove, camping gear, fire wood.....yours should hold up to a fraction of the weight that XT6 was handling.

any check engine lights - if so, what codes? if you clear them, which ones come back? double check timing belt marks - make sure you're not a tooth off. do you have spark? do you have good fuel pressure? compression test?

it'll bolt right up to the engine mounts, transmission, and exhaust. problem will be the electronics aren't compatible so it won't be plug and play. you could bolt your loyale's SPFI heads to the short block and then everything is bolt up and plug and play. in the loyale the ECU/wiring only supports one injector (SPFI) in an MPFI set up there are multiple injectors so the wiring and ECU are different.

the suction cup pullers are lame. i've used them and have one. maybe they work for really tiny and lame dents, but for real dents they don't do anything. i've never seen one work. easiest solution is to find a matching door. i replaced a dented 2000 Forester door last year for like $75. just found one the same color and swapped it out. they're really easy to swap. 4 bolts and a pin and you're done.

two drain plugs to get all the fluid out: http://www.iwsti.com/forums/how-install/96096-changing-6mt-trans-oil.html some newer 6 speeds don't have a dipstick or fill tube on the top, they're filled from the side. that change isn't until later 2000's though i don't think.

i've seen folks located the bad resistor and repair an EA82 ECU. i tried to do the same part that was bad on another persons that fixed theirs was not bad on mine and nothing looked noticeably bad so i didn't get anywhere besides opening it up. you can pull it apart and test all the transistors, resistors, etc on the board one by one.

washers don't need replaced. actually...i never replace them, ever. so i've driven like 100,000 miles on the same washer before. owners manual should have information about maintenance procedures and fluids like this. it's a manual transmission you say?

my wife said she thinks we're going in July. i can't think of a good way to remind myself, hopefully i'll remember.

here's some suggestions: if you're replacing everything now, do the water pump too. you're done until the next 105,000. if you're leaving one or more original pulleys plan a 50,000 mile inspection and replace the pump then (and you can check any seals out then too). if you're doing the work yourself pulling the timing belt is easy enough to make an inspection not a big deal. EJ water pumps don't fail very often, but it happens.

ha ha!! "aint no body can werk on them there soobru's cause they so hard to git into." i can relate, he'd be making fun of me - i can't stand carburetors. they're antiquated high maintenance trash in my opinion. requirement for my last lawn mower was that it did not have a carburetor - and i love it - my 20+ year old Kubota has fired right up every single time after a long winter of sitting and i love not doing a thing to it ever in years. no more tweaking, cleaning, disassembling carbs or treating gas. i'm sure they're great in terms of simplicity if you know what you're doing though, so i'm just like that dude.

$2,000 is usually respectable for a good condition car ready for daily driving duties. around here it seems like if you can wait until winter when the snow flies and jan when people start spending their tax refunds it'll be easier to get a higher price for it. around here the old stuff rusts away so fast that no one is familiar with older subarus - i think demand follows the same trend. out west i think older soobs are more common and it's a slightly different ball game. if you find the right buyer everything changes of course, it would be worth more to that person.

i love my F150 and hope to have it for 20 years. but it gets old as a daily driver. 15 mpg and a rough ride on the unconventional daily drive i have on switchback unmarked mountain roads. the cars are more pleasant for those things.

when do you need it by? i just went the past two months (5 days ago) and have no plans to go back again. we're heading on vacation together to florida in August...not sure if we're getting together in July....so it could be a couple months yet...but they could come here too. will it fit in the trunk of a car? back seat? in case they come here.

it's really easy on the screw type adjustable valves, not much to it, just remove the valve cover and turn two nuts per valve to get it where the gauge tells you. so far - all of them that i've done had some that were too tight to fit even my thinnest gauge between (which is bad - see GD's burnt exhaust valve comments and threads here on USMB about it). i haven't had the opportunity yet to dive into the DOHC shim style adjustments yet. "what will this get you".....i'm not sure what that means?

i go to Canton every month or two or three. (was there 5 days ago). shipping a rear quarter is not something i've done before and sounds like a hassle and expensive. could he drop it off in Canton? since i'm visiting family i won't spend hours picking up, boxing, shipping. any suggestions on shipping a behemoth like that? shouldn't go away any time soon, he's had it listed, relisted and for sale for a very long time. pretty sure i posted about it on here before.

did you check with subaru and ebay?

$35 ebay variety in 2000 forester, good to go. that's my only experience. Subaru online venders are about $20 cheaper - so probably around $100, the local dealers match those prices for me, you could ask your local dealer as well if you wanted Subaru.

jamals brake write up is in the USRM - Ultimate Subaru Repair Manual - dig through the brake area and look for it, it's a great read for figuring out stuff like this.