idosubaru

yep, that swap will work just fine. you'll need the brackets, calipers, and rotors from the OBW. jamal has a fantastic brake interchange/swap thread that i saved, it's extremely helpful with all of subaru's frequent changes and tweaks. ignore the "brake bias" comments and do it, simple upgrades are great on all sorts of subarus. drum to disk and smaller disc to larger..etc.

if it's really a hose just replace the hose and install two new clips to hold it in place. if it's the steering rack boot you're looking at then you likely need a new rack as that seal isn't a typically replaced part. i can't picture this hose you're talking about, i'm just used to metal fittings into the steering rack.

thanks all - scooted right around NYC via 287 with no problems. hit some back up in bridgeport area around 2:30pm but wasn't horrible. missed the 5pm rush hour, thanks, now we're in maine ready to tear it up.

i'd use it. i doubt Subaru is cranking out belts for XT6's and other 1980's stuff on a regular basis. i've seen oil soaked belts break in like 5,000 miles, that breaks them down quick. but that was a spewing crank seal, not just leaking. timing belt was literally soaked.

i bought a new one from Subaru and the noise/vibrating is gone. i plan on having this thing for a long time so doubtful the original would last that long anyway. guy at the Subaru dealer said he's definitely seen the actual tensioners fail, fairly common too.

man where were you a couple weeks ago sneaky?! i did that test and that's what happened - not all that was going in was coming out, but i didn't know if that meant anything or not, a good bit was still coming out too so it wasn't obvious. drove past NYC yesterday on my way to maine, thought about you nip!

+1. that long bolt is a beast and yours aint coming out, or just let a shop install the used hub. one could say "used bearings can fail", well so can new bearings. i'm content to keep swapping hubs until subaru can regain the wheel bearing reliability of older gen soobs.

with rod knock it's basically worth scrap prices. unless you happen to find someone needing a particular part or heads. so many of us are sitting on bad blocks, heads, and blown headgasket EJ25's (i've got a bunch and know others on here have a bunch) - so there's a heavy supply, not much demand.

if you bought it from a dealer they should be very accustomed to the O2 sensor issues. my guess is replacing the O2 sensor is not going to fix it - i bet it comes back. they need to check for any exhaust leaks - do you hear any noises at all? Subaru has a very specific process for determining the cause of O2 sensor codes, if they throw a sensor at it and that doesn't fix it - they're just guessing and not properly diagnosing the issue.

i did this exact swap, it's easy. EJ18 wiring is totally different so it's not a plug-and-play swap. but just get an EJ22 intake manifold - the entire manifold with harness bolts right on top the EJ18 and plugs right into the EJ25. mine is behind an auto trans. if yours is manual it'll be even better, but mine is usable, i drive it everywhere and just keep the rpm's up on the automatic. it's an EJ18 you can't hurt those things! if you'll be pulling a lot of weight or steep mountain grades the EJ18 is terribly underpowered, though a manual may be a bit better? i can't run 16" subaru wheels, the car is too underpowered for the really steep mountain grades and carrying passengers. did it once on a 6 hour drive and actually got all the way down to 2nd gear just to get over the two steepest mountain passes at 50 mph. but that was with a huge load - two enormous guys in the back and two more up front and luggage....and very steep grades. a/c also loads it enough to make a noticeable difference climbing as well.

i saw it for the first time last week, brand new Subaru OEM. if you're not loosing coolant then my guess is your radiator is clogged. unfortunately i just got done asking and there doesn't seem to be a definitive test. i tried a temp gun but that didn't work, too much heat generated and the temps fluctuate like crazy, every 1/16th of an inch reads different so hard to compare anything. heat does bad things to oil, seals, and more - i'd fix this quick too.

valve cover gaskets are easy, just have a 10 mm ratcheting wrench available, takes all the frustration out of that job.

coolant needs to be properly bled you can search here for bleeding or "burping", these engines are particularly unforgiving. the radiator may be clogged. was it replaced after the hit? any coolant loss? are the fans coming on - maybe broke or wires busted from accident? typical headgasket sign on this motor is bubbling in the overflow tank when you shut the car off. these motors don't typically fail compression tests or have oil/coolant mixing when the head gasket goes.

have you ever had any axle work or cracked axle boots? or is one of the inner boots cracked right now? notice any recent burning smells? could be an axle, the inner joints particularly will vibrate/grind at certain speeds. my guess is the axle currently has a busted boot or the axle was replaced previously with an aftermarket. heat shield is good to check too. your loud issues that you've had for a few years is not anything like an intake manifold or head/head gasket issue, no way you could drive that long like that. probably just the exhaust or gasket which is no big deal, you can drive it indefinitely like that.

the H6 engine has a spring loaded tensioner (if that's what it's called), common on other vehicles. having little experience with this style, i'm not sure but i think mine needs replaced. every few seconds it was making a noise, confirmed with a stethoscope that it's the pulley. visually the bolt was even moving when the noise was happening. i assumed the bearings were bad in the pulley attached to the tensioner (common issue, i had already replaced them 30,000 miles ago). when i removed it the bearings were perfectly smooth and tight. tensioner doesn't appear to have any play in it at all, but it's just unloaded off the engine now. does this sound like a bad tensioner? just checking since i've never really replaced one or worked on one like this before. none of the other subaru's have this style.

sweet, i was hoping paul would chime in! sounds basically like DC - 3pm+ and you're hosed. the NYC to Bridgeport area of 95 is fairly bad traffic at rush hour? Does it start to loosen up anyway above bridgeport - or is that all still suburb like? if we stop at a beach there around 1-2 and hop back on around 4pm we'll be in heavy traffic for a bit probably? should we hit a beach as far north as possible then? get there a bit later an further from it all?

properly oiled the MAF won't be a problem on a subaru. i'm not recommending them. you don't sound like you have any compelling reason to get one, just go standard. i was putting mad mileage, well over 30k+ a year and used the same one on multiple vehicles so i got my money's worth.

reboot yours. OEM axle failure is nearly unheard of (offroad crowd doesn't count ). particularly a rear axle, they just don't see much action. your OEM rebooted will have less chance of failure than an aftermarket. if you don't like rebooting have a shop reboot it for you.

tiny bit. in college i was putting a ton of miles on my XT6's and went with a K&N filter and dynomax muffler. it was good for maybe 2 or 3 mpg better on all highway cruising. outside of that i didn't notice any in town mpg or acceleration benefits. don't recall how often i cleaned it but i would think it was more than every 50,000. i put a lot of miles on one filter as i used it on two or three different XT6's.

i did mine recently and just recall wrestling with a few things under the glove box. don't recall anything special about it. i found some cheap ones on ebay and bought a couple of them at once.

AWESOME! thanks! 287 it is. i've driven through new york before and have hit horrendous traffic but with all the roads and options i can't recall how i've gone in the past, it's been a long time.

oh my bad. i figured the change of daily was part of the deal since you described it. yes do it. financially should be a decent deal as the OBW isn't really worth a ton of market value - it's worth is reliably cheap transportation, so that's for you to decide what that's worth to you. with multiple vehicles you got flex, that's good. it's hard to determine 'is it worth it' since the "cash on top" is ambiguous and everyone has different tastes. sounds like a decent deal for you though, the OBW does have a quarter million miles on it almost though those are nice rides and rack up a ton of miles. not sure how you do maintenance but if the timing belt components are all unknown or old or you have to pay for them yourself maybe that helps make the decision?

have you tried adjusting it at the rear hub as well as under the center console? not much too it really, it's been awhile so memory is vague but i don't recall anything super annoying except fishing stuff a little and working from under the car isn't the funnest in the world. they get changed when folks do a rear disc swap often so it's been done before.

the EA82 could be a usable daily. the lack of power might drive you nuts though? give it all new timing components, reseal the front with the timing change, new water pump, fresh tune up and they can last a very long time. if it's an EA82T then don't make that wagon your daily!

sounds normal. were you just changing the fluid for good measure or was there some compelling reason? i've pulled plugs from perfectly good trans and diffs with huge piles of mush on them, so divide that by 10 and sounds like what you got roughly?