idosubaru

nice job getting it to work. not sure what problems you would have had, but the sensors aren't ever an issue with this swap so it would have been failed sensors, not a problem with the swap. an EJ22 ECU and/or TCU might help with the sluggishness. i've swapped them and didn't notice any difference but that was only one shot and my car isn't a standard swap.

have you done it GD? can you just remove the one top strut bolt and rotate it out to get the axle off the trans? i'd like to know just in case i'm ever in a pinch, but i haven't tried it yet. or you lucky west coast non-rust jokers have the luxury of actually being able to remove ball joints? :lol:

as long as you're positive it's coming from there, then yeah it sounds like you unfortunately will need to replace the torque converter seal. i can't think of anything else between the engine and trans that will leak, it's only that one seal. the torque converter didn't sit out for awhile and get any rust on the shaft did it? not that it matters, either way the seals needs replaced, just want to make sure something didn't damage it that will do it again. be very careful and make sure the TC is seated properly, sounds like you got it once so far. if you do'nt you'll ruin your trans. just don't use the bolts to pull things together, make sure the TC is fully seated and doesn't touch when you install the engine.

do not replace the axle. current axle is perfectly fine and will last the life of the vehicle. reboot it. Subaru axles are much better quality than aftermarkets, throwing away a Subaru axle is a bad move. i'll leave my stories out but there's plenty on here from me and others about bad aftermarket axles. the outer boots on these newer ones like you have, have more convolutions and last a lot better than the older style and like mentioned earlier that one is closest to the exhaust so replacing just one is an option. i believe you can even replace that inner boot without removing the axle from the hub. not sure if that's wise or not but i think i saw it done that way in a shop before. i'd expect Subaru to charge your $150-$200.

i'd change the fluid completely sometime after the rebuild, but they should recommend/tell you that. if that's the case just put generic cheap stuff in anyway possibly since it's coming out soon. if you believe heat is an issue get an automatic transmission cooler, i use them and shops often recommend or require them on problematic auto trans (like the SVX).

+1 , well said. anyone that bent about oil and filter is showing more about personality traits than anything helpful or technical. i avoid fram and don't like their choice of cardboard materials, but even then i don't think it really matters. it's perfectly possible to run a subaru 200,000 miles with Fram filters so it's not a worthwhile topic. i prefer WIX and Purolator Pure One when I can't get those.

central/left/right? i've heard alternators make noises like this before. low humming mostly under load. but on a 2006 with low miles that would be weird? it's not like a wind noise? does it sound definitely engine related? would be nice to get it to rev and see if it's engine related (changes speed with engine RPM) or drivetrain related (changes speed with wheel speed so to speak).

is the A/C cracked up maybe or you feel certain it's the charging system? battery and alternator connections/connectors are good and not weak, warn, or dirty? i'd connect jump cable to positive battery and the alternator post and see if the symptoms subside. on my own daily drivers i've ran straight heavy gauge wire between those two before but that's not advisable electrically speaking, should be fused or something. but it bypasses some of the possibly old wiring.

good point, i see what you're saying. with such low power and the rigidity of these motors i would be surprised if it caused any issues, should be fine. if you took the car apart now the cylinder walls would still have the factory crosshatching and look fantastic. granted that has nothing to do with the bearings but these motors don't typically exhibit much wear. start going long intervals on oil changes and you'll TOD from the HLA's but even that won't keep the car from running.

model/year? ah i see, i just looked a few up on ebay, bunch on there for sale. i'd assume you can swap the two styles but i've never done it. i'm sure it's been discussed here before if you do a search. you could probably call magnecor and see if they have the right fittings for your car.

nice hit, banjo bolts on both ends of the trans line. call subaru and see if they can get it? there's enough around that they should have some resource for checking into postal vehicle parts. there are shops that make gas and brake lines that can do this for you too. you could probably also "convert" the banjo style fitting to something simpler. i'd personally be tempted to take the banjo bolt to the hardware store, match threads to something that will allow me to just slide a hose over the end with a clamp, then install an aftermarket cooler that uses regular hose.

they sell kits for replacing all the rubber boots and pins. nice to take them with you though and make sure as subaru has a LOT of different caliper set ups, it's really annoying and you get the wrong parts often. might want to flush your fluid too - probably never been done and it's 10 years old. some fresh fluid might make a world of difference. fluid changes extend the life of braking system components too.

Almost all yards ship these days. They never even hesitate when I call and ask if they ship. I've ordered from All Foreign before.

you didn't damage anything by running it like that. they are non-interference engines so with new belts it'll fire right up. ebay has timing kits for $60 if you want another 100,000km. the kits have the belt and all the pulleys too, which i always replace as a complete set since the kits are so cheap, it's so easy, and the original pulleys are old and devoid of grease. if you want a lot more miles out of it i'd replace the belts and any wet oil seals/orings, and reseal the oil pump (subaru only on all the seals and orings). it's all right behind the timing belt anyway.

love is fickle, don't buy it. seriously....it *should* be a simple fix. you're saying the actual lever itself wouldn't move? was the car on/off, moving/sitting? did you move the car a little then try again? if i was interested in the car i would disconnect the linkage underneath and actually move the 4WD lever by hand. follow the linkage from the shifter and it's on the passengers side of the trans, just behind the front wheel so to speak. if the lever moved in and out of 4WD just fine i'd consider anything else a simple fix and not let that deter me from getting it....though that's a good point to offer less on if the 4WD isn't actually working properly.

His is Arrow and I met and went on a trip with a Spitzer he grew up with too. If you don't reply I'll assume you know them :lol: Nice!

that's awesome, good work! you're jumping right in, i like it! axle stubs are the splined shafts the axle slides onto up front, but no problem sounds like you're not going to mess with the ring that's right behind the on the side of the trans. i wasn't sure if you were going to disassembled the front diff or just swap the entire thing so i was pointing that out. how hard was it to remove the shaft going through the trans? did you have the split the case? if you haven't put it back together inspect the rear transfer clutches and keep the clutch basket or whatever it's called with the least "grooves" in it. also - keep the entire rear tail section and the duty C solenoid, and hub - they're known to fail but easily replaced in the car, so that's a good part to have on hand just in case. glad the bellhousings are the same, it's not the bolts that differ, but doesn't matter so no point in explaining.

as soon as you say this: :lol::lol: just kidding, but foresters are notorious wheel bearing eaters, particularly rear wheel bearings. of course rotate tires or otherwise make sure it's not something else, but it's wide spread - i fixed a 2000 forester rear 2 weeks ago and helped a friend do one around the same time. might want to describe the noise? sometimes helps to have someone sit in the back or drive slowly past someone outside if you can't get a good grasp from inside the cabin.

the tooth count will be different, but not by much, just count them all the way around. nearly everything on these jokers is interchangeable. in general, you're proceeding the right way. if you move the axle stub retainers make sure you count the number of turns as that sets the preload/backlash of the front diff. is there a tooth problem here? when meshing gears you can't always just throw them together because they fit, there's a certain science to the meshing of the gears. not sure if it matters here but just make sure first. i forget how the front diff and trans mesh together...eventhough i just disassembled one a couple months ago. and i think it's in 19998 that the bellhousing bolt pattern changed (or was it 99?) so it may differ from the 95. don't let that stop you, the 95 bellhousing will still bolt right up to the engine even if it looks like it doesn't have the same number of bolt holes. it'll still work fine.

if you're driving in town there's probably not much you can do. what kind of driving are you doing? stop lights, stop and go, etc? have you taken any trips, if so what did you get then? if not, wait until you have a long, easy trip and see what mileage you get them. just for general mileage you can search here or on the internet and see, there's an entire list of basic things you can do.

if it was my car that'd be cool as i don't care about the money and plan on having them awhile. but it's not. be nice to diagnose the radiator, it could be internal leakage/headgasket in which case a radiator is equally throwing parts at it. my last 5 words were: i don't consider swapping a thermostat as "throwing parts at it". a couple years ago my daily driver xt6 was overheating (thread here http://subaruxt.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=7267&p=68665&hilit=running#p68665) and i replaced the radiator and that wasn't the issue. trying to learn something here to diagnose. GD helped out just a couple posts ago. i'm sorry it's taking a few days, i'm also helping friends for free with a seized Ford Escape caliper, wrecked 2010 Kia, and exhaust leaking legacy. The Ford and Kia I'll finish today hopefully.

T-stat didn't solve it. Temp drops drastically when i turn car off for a few seconds and drift/coast, then turn it back on. I'm thinking head gasket but i'll look into the radiator.

can you return the clutch kit you bought? the 4EAT is not a bad transmission, they get terrible press in car "club" settings because a lot of those kinds of folks prefer manuals. i've seen as many problems with manual trans as auto's. the bearings, clutches, clutch forks, throw out bearings, clutch clips, synchro's, internal issues.

it's definitely motor related? maybe it's something else? i would expect pinging too. try higher octane or better gas. run some MMO or seafoam through the gas. and maybe seafoam the intake.

yes on DOHC, haven't done a SOHC that way but would assume it's similar. you have to get a really crazy angle going to pull the entire lump up and out over the radiator cross member, but it'll work. they look way more vertical than horizontal, it's totally cumbersome and probably not a good idea or likely to be preferred. for a first timer or without equipment/space it would likely be a debacle.