idosubaru

i like bolting them together outside and installing them as a unit, but you gotta have lots of room to lift and tilt things around, it's a tight fit but i've done it on EJ25's too.

if you don't have any exhaust leaks then you need the non fouler fix or just buy a ready made part off ebay for a few dollars. bank 1 is just the front like he said. bank 2 is used on the H6 engines, not the H4's, as they have two front O2 sensors.

i think that's true as well. edit....

i like "buggy" due to the amish tint around your area, perfect fit! i got it now, i was wondering "Dune Buggy" doesn't sound like a typical enon valley mobile, now i'm with it. a friend of mine is from Enon Valley, so i've been to his parents place before and i know what you mean by "blip". i can't even picture "enon valley" as a city, i just know his house/street!

Doubt you need to go anywhere else. Why are you asking, like what are you looking for or trying to solve? We can tell you everything you need to know about Subaru's. Could the "valve problem" just be that the EJ25 went to Subarus first interference engine design in 1996, like i mentioned earlier? If the timing belt breaks - replacing the timing belt won't fix the problem...so that sort of lines up?

had an aftermarket tstat in it, so i replaced that this morning. forgot the key so couldn't test it and hit it with the temp gun. i doubt that's the issue, but quick and easy.

did you check ebay?

woah i've been to enon valley before, nice. where do you drive something like that up there? "buggy" is an appropriate term, eh? LOL!!!!

right, as you saw, the valves are angled so they can collide at full extension. this means it's a good idea to replace the timing belt and all the associated pulleys or at the very least check them. they do run out of grease and get old over time. at least on cars, i don't know how more or less harsh this application would be on an engine component. i'm doubtful this thing will see 105,000 miles to the next timing belt service interval but then again it's generating a lot of heat really close to the timing components too - so the bearings will likely degrease quicker. subaru has a parts website call opposed forces with all sorts of diagrams and part numbers.

different generation legacy's...even different countries?...might have different weight vehicles, that might account for some differences. my EJ18 is in a later model legacy, which might weigh more than the first generations?

nice, thanks for the feedback. so it worked well then? simple and easy?

i once had in inoperative 4WD mechanism and I just attached a long rod to the lever on the side of the trans so i could easily engage/disengage it as needed. i even ran a thin metal rod from there, through the center console area and into the cabin so it was just a big long mechanical connection. ended up fixing it later but that let me change it at least until i could fix it right.

no, it doesn't matter. electricity travels the length of the spark plug wire in 0.000000003 seconds, so a few miles probably wouldn't even matter at those speeds!

do you know what symptoms it had or how did you know? i know you're not one to just throw parts at it. i have a temp gun so that's an option.

Not true. 1996 EJ18 and EJ22 - bullet proof engine, one of the favorites on here. don't run it out of oil or overheat it and it'll run as long as you care to maintain it. 1996 EJ25 - first year, it has head gasket issues for which Subaru redesigned the head gaskets. But no "valve problems". The EJ25 is an interference engine, if the timing belt breaks, the valves will collide and result in valve damage. That would be operator error for not maintaining the vehicle, not the engines fault. Lots of newer engines are interference design.

I get mostly craftsmen stuff out of convenience, not preference. Bought an air compressor, air tools, and hand tools about 5 years ago or more. I've had to replace the 1/2" impact just this year (but i never oiled it...is that bad ), many hand ratchets, one or two sockets, and multiple 1/2" to 3/8" adapters (but i'm doing stupid stuff with those). My usage is between home DIY guy and mechanic as I do a lot. The prices of the high end stuff aren't worth it for me, I'd rather have two of the lower end, but free replacement, options for far less money. Plus I don't care enough about tools, cars...well lots of "stuff", so I'd rather not have expensive tools I need to worry about. If I loose it, it gets stolen, or breaks, I just don't care and would like to keep it that way. But I like being a little more mobile and free - go work on a tractor, help someone out, etc. I double up on stuff that sees the most use or might break. I have two sets of impact guns, air ratchets, and hand ratchets, and two 1/2" to 3/8" adapters. That pretty much gives me all the back up I need. Bought one set up front and just accumulated other stuff over the years for cheap or free. Having two ratchets is handy while working too. Harbor freight is a gamble. One out of 5 things sucks, the rest work, so just depends how you value your time/tools/money/etc. I buy things from them that I very rarely need. Not worth the expense and not a big deal if it doesn't work/breaks. My air tools assortment came with an air hammer, I've never used it, what in the world are those things for anyway!?

That's a Phase I EJ25 DOHC. All EJ25 equipped Subaru's between 1996 and 1998 have that exact same engine, and some in 1999. There's two different style timing belt tensioner mechanisms, but otherwise everything else is the same. Pretty much on way to tell which tensioner style you have without just looking. You can pull the drivers side timing cover to get a peak at it....well in normal engine without all that plumbing in front, yours might be trickier. It's an interference engine, if the timing belt breaks the exhaust and intake valves are going to collide and cause damage. Not sure exactly what you're looking for but maybe that helps?

the wheels will definitely swap, tires will if they're both the same diameter. i guess it's not still under warranty? an EJ22 swap can be done cheap and give you some more miles if you're interested in that. are you absolutely sure it's rod knock? maybe it's piston slap or something else? i'd make sure before writing it off, piston slap is very common Ej25's.

i'd plan on resealing the oil pump. kind of a crap job to just replace the oring. remove the oil pump: clean it tighten the rear backing plate screws - a dab of locktite for any that are loose (probably one or a couple). install oring (i'd use one from Subaru) replace crank seal on the front of the oil pump body reseal the perimeter with sealant (supposed to be anaerobic but a lot of folks don't like the cost, but that's what i recommend) install the pump don't overtigthen, the block is aluminum install timing belt. early EJ stuff is easy, non interference, so just yank the belt off and line it back up to reinstall, not hard. everything you need to know is outlined on here, do some reading if you're hesitant about anything or need some tips.

oh sweet...the kit, not your predicament...i'd like to just buy one, i'll check out the kit then know what to buy. thanks!

could you describe how you did that? i need to get the equipment or adapter to do that. is it just a matter of connecting my air compressor to the spark plug hole to introduce compressed air? where do you get that kind of fitting? sorry to hear that news.

let us know what year/engine you're working on. there's no way to keep the timing belt in place to reseal the oil pump...if that's what you're doing, not sure by your description so i'm guessing. just remove the belt, it's easy to reinstall. line up your timing marks when you remove it and then line them back up when you reinstall, they'll typically move a little bit but not much. install the lower passenger side pulley after the timing belt is in place, no need to install that one before the belt. this gives enough slack to install the belt. it's not hard at all and there's lots of information on here to help. look up the Subaru endwrench article for precise timing belt installation. proceed cautiously, which means only remove and install the belt with the marks lined up, if it's an interference engine (any 97 and up model essentially and all EJ25's). a couple or few teeth either way won't matter, so don't tweak out about that. you haven't mentioned which engine so i'm not sure what oring you're talking about. crank case isn't a term i'm familiar with in terms of timing belts jobs. there's an oring behind the oil pump and an oring behind the cam caps (on some, not all, EJ motors).

Note - when driven at night it runs less hot, generally stays normal except when climbing. When driven during the day (currently having a heat wave of 96 in our area) it runs hotter and not as much near the normal mark.

overcharging the system will make it scream. if you've converted it, the system requires less R134a than the old stuff. i think it's been said it's like one third? 9 ounces instead of 27? either way, overcharged can cause your symptoms and conversions can cause it. check the pressures. a/c belt a/c clutch bearings a/c compressor a mechanics stethoscope or other appropriate device can help narrow down the sound.

Fans are both coming on when it's getting hot? You said the fluid levels were different - were there any symptoms like a fluctuating temp gauge? Was the coolant additive required by Subaru on 2000+ models added? You didn't comment on "burping", you're fairly confident there is no air in the system? Keep in mind these particular engines can be much harder than other Subaru engines to bleed of air. Subaru's have common failure modes because it's a design problem, not just a failed gasket with age/mileage, so they often look the same. The poor design doesn't rule out other failure modes common with age/mileage of any head gasket, so other things are possible.