idosubaru

use a pickle fork style tool like for ball joints (a little small is nice if you can find one though i've gotten ball joint sized ones to work on subaru's too) - those take 10 seconds and work great every time. they tend to tear boots unless you're really careful and grease it all up good but you're replacing anyway so the old one is hitting the trash probably.

how about the height sensors are cracked up in the strut? while driving it's "asking" for more air (height) when it doesn't need it. try getting it level and then unplugging the strut wire - thus disconnecting the height sensor? hmmm, that will probably freak out the computer though. you could try and mimmick the height sensor with a resistor or..i forget how they work, maybe it just completes circuits above and below certain levels and is "open" in between - been awhile since i looked but you should be able to try that.

the 99 and 02 i did were slightly different but basically the same. i had to sort of twist/push the plastic cover on one i think underneath to get at it, but it was really easy.

i think that's what's holding me back - i need still need a puller and other bits to do the rear maybe? if it was an all contained kit that would be awesome i just haven't had the time to put into assembling a kit and pieces. i'd buy a complete kit probably if it had all the parts for front and rears.

you don't care and i say go with what you want, but hydro clutch is more work now and higher maintenance in Subarus. flushing fluid, and failures of slaves, hoses, and masters are relatively common even in 200x models, more common than cable clutch issues by far in my experience. a general search of Subaru forums will show it.

rotors are different. calipers don't bolt up, they have different bracket bolt spacing. waiting a week for your XT6 rotors? go buy...hmmm...is it 2000 Chevy Cavalier rotors, they're like $15-$20 each and a perfect fit for the XT6. have to verify the year though on that cavalier.

what do you mean by "creeping up"? it's there all the time...or sometimes it's not? must decrease sometimes if it "creeps up"? sounds simple - your solenoid is bad? the pressurized air behind it is bleeding into the strut while the solenoid is "closed" and trying not to let any air in it. you can disassemble the solenoid and stretch the internal spring to improve sealing, or just swap in a used one.

impreza/legacy struts are complicated as far as interchanges. there's some extensive lists on nasioc i found a week or two ago.

ball joint or spring.

never done a 95 but on others i've just pushed the undercovers aside under neath and done them without removing anything from behind. did a 2002 GT Wagon and 99 GT last week this way.

i'd suggest reading the reviews at tire rack, they have reviews for most common tires sizes. typical brands like goodyear and Michelin...and others, have great tires. across the board michelins seem to be very good in the snow. i recommend those when i don't have time to research and folks rave about them. but they're expensive. good fuel efficiency for the cross country trip? leave your old tires on and increase the pressures to 38 pounds. get new tires when you get to the new destination. old tires are likely to be drier rubber from age and probably have less rolling resistance than newer supple treads. you're talking about 0-$7 savings in gas mileage if anything.

i only replaced one set of bearings so far. orginal set failed - so i have no idea about that one. shop (that does work for the local dealer) installed new bearings. that one failed. i installed a used hub and that one is now noisy. all the other jobs i've done i just swap hubs. never done a bearing job before so I'm a bit hesitant to dig into it.

A/C just adds load making any current problem seem worse, it's not likely causing anything. Don't replace the knock sensor unless you're getting a code. If you just replaced it, it should be fine. At most check the angle of installation and torque setting - Subaru has a very specific installation for these that most people say to adhere to. I'd save the fuel injectors for after all this work, maybe it'll run perfect afterwards? Fuel injectors can be cleaned - there are companies you mail them too. RC Engineering is who I use but they're probably on the high end as far as cost. A friend of mine uses a cheaper company...witchdoctor...or witch something or another. You mail them the injectors, they pre-test, clean, rebuild if necessary, and post test them. The sets I've sent have all shown improvements when returned, but I can't say whether it makes a difference at all since I was doing it as part of rebuilds, not to solve any issues and the injectors worked before hand just had lots of age/mileage on them. RC Engineering used to run $20-$30 per injector I think, other places do it for half that I think.

most of the time i've probably swapped the exact same rack in place and i've never had an alignment problem. but i live in the rust belt so all the exposed threads are PRE-MARKED for me :lol: Usuallly you can see where the threads were exposed or covered by the tie rod end, I still count but that's a really good indicator too. I don't ever recall "centering a rack", I didn't know there were any adjusments if there are. i remove the old one, bolt in the new one and reinstall the outer tie rods exactly as they were on the original.

The hose and slave cylinders fail enough that I'd just buy new ones. The hydraulic clutches seem like more maintenance and failures. Yeah the clutch forks are different, seems to me the pivot point was a little different too but maybe i'm not remembering right. when i looked into it, it didn't seem as simple as swapping the clutch fork, but not hard either way. you'll need everything between the brake pedal and cylinders too. and everything between the cylinders and trans. just go to a yard and pull everything you need. or go to subaru's opposed forces website and check out their nifty diagrams.

pretty sure the fender hold down bolts will work, like any of the 10mm headed bolts. they just might not be long enough if it's on REALLY tight and still wont' walk off once it's starting to move.

how many miles have you put on it? i hate to suggest it almost since it's that thing we always wish would happen - but maybe it'll "get better"? how bad is it, can you live with it or not really? my H6 OBW has a nice shift shock when downshifting, i just ignore it. put about 40,000 miles now on it. which makes me wonder about trying to fix it now that you bring it up.

yeah, what he said, welcome to the world of EJ vehicles, they eat wheel bearings. my 97 legacy failed. installed new bearings, the new ones failed 20,000 miles later so i installed a used hub. here we are another 20,000 miles later and that same hub is failing - so i'm on my 4th attempt on the same freaking hub. expect no love from me. i replaced a 2000 Forester last week, my buddies 97 Legacy and more, EJ wheel bearings suck. old gen stuff has far fewer wheel bearing issues. let the cynicism seap out: it's a nice money maker since it typically doesn't strand people but most folks don't fix it themselves. pardon my cynical nature, but the frustration with wheel bearing after wheel bearing is getting to me. upside is i've bought some cheap newer subarus because of this issue

follow the directions you're talking about, that's correct. 80-90 degrees, back off, then final torque, compare it to the torque procedures quoted on here often. that's funny they print TTY on their packaging where have they been?

it's not a Phase I/Phase II thing, this issue is encountered when swapping Phase II EJ22's and EJ25's. no legacy's got the EJ22 in 2000 so one of them would have needed to be swapped at some point in it's life if that's the case here - and therefore a long shot - but no way one of the motors was an EJ22 was it?

no need to apologize, we're discussing. yeah me too, i've wondered about that before as well. Subaru calls for a retorque of EA82 heads but you don't do it with the Fel-Pro permatorques, hence their value in that application. Maybe that's just due to the older material design and sealing improvements in head gasket technology since EA82's came out, dunno but i'm with you and have wondered how they determine all that.

i'm not "right", i was trying to discuss. he took "it doesn't matter" really hard. i did assume it wouldn't matter since he was going after that tooth count and wanted to diagnose a no-start. i understand where he's coming from, though i feel bad for how quickly his BP shoots up. Subaru's website seems to indicate it doesn't matt....er...i mean it doesn't show a difference until February 2003: http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b12/type_21/engine/camshaft_and_timing_belt/illustration_1/ plugging around that site might show the auto/manual or other parts differences you're looking for if you're still stuck. since you replaced the part - have you checked for continuity in that circuit, maybe the wire got hosed somewhere?

yeah that happens and i almost mentioned it earlier. H6 models have a few issues as mentioned in this Subaru TSB: http://www.scoobymods.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=5396&d=1167235017 not your car, but it shows a Subaru TPS failure mode causing shift shock.

if you really, honestly want it for 10 years it needs to be in really good shape i'd think. if the overall condition is good and you're capable of doing work on it, then it's doable. quarter of a million miles with a blown headgasket isn't worth much, but for under $1,000 you could conceivably have a good daily driver for the next few years/100k if it's in good shape and the work is done right. i'd plan on a few hundred to do it right though - that's an interference engine, it needs a complete timing kit - $200 off ebay probably, in addition to water pump and head gasket. power steering is cake, just swap in another rack, they're cheap. or if you're lucky it's just a fitting that needs tigthened.

97 EJ25 has notorious head gasket issues. of course you'd like to rule out other possibilities. are you sure it only does it with the A/C on? if that's the case then i'd suspect your radiator is plugged up, quite common with age. when it overheats - does it have hot air...guess that's hard to tell if the a/c is running and it's 90 degrees outside! if you have a temp gun, hit the radiator and look for cool spots. feel the upper and lower radiator hoses - is one hot and the other cool? any black gunk or bubbles after shutting off the car in the overflow tank? any history or maintenance - tbelt, water pump, thermostat, etc?