idosubaru

i think the speedo/tack problem will be you need another speed sensor, but someone more familiar with it will hopefully chime in. as for starting, if the battery and cables are fine then i'd start to suspect the starter/solenoid. has the engine ever been out (clutch, etc) or any major work done to engine/trans? hey, i live in morgantown!?!

if you can find a transmission with torque bind just use that one, it's essentially "pre-welded". i know folks that have done that before to make a RWD subaru. maybe someone on here has a "bad" 4WD manual trans that has torque bind? or weld it of course, you're obviously good at that! when you remove the axle(s) you'll need the outer axle joint stubs mounted to the hubs to protect the bearings.

nothing to worry about. subaru tie rods are insanely robust, failure is almost unheard of. i've seen them squeeze a little grease out before when doing work up front too.

two cans should do it. LOL.

no, not every time. first two steps are making sure you don't have any exhaust leaks and reading the code. many chains read the codes free or buy a scanner for $30 off ebay and do it yourself.

yep, weld a nut to the top of the stud then you can use a socket to get it out. +1 to the E10 bit, i listened to that advice and I'm glad i did.

these engines are notorious for loud HLA's - like so loud even mechanics will swear that something is wrong with your engine. but it's actually not a big deal, it just sounds bad...or horrible. but it doesn't signal any catastrophe or problems down the road. just live with it until you can repair it. i'd just plan on a thorough timing belt job in the future in which case most of us would just reseal the oil pump while the belts are off anyway. get the ebay timing kits for $60 or less, reseal the oil pump and seals and you're good for 50,000 miles.

interesting - swapping the front Y-pipe and O2 fixed the issue? interesting indeed. late to the party but those compression numbers look fine. wouldn't surprise me that with a more ideal compression test the numbers would be closer, but like GD said looks fine even if they're accurate. battery, cables, throttle body not propped open, and your HLA's not being perfectly pumped up could all sway the numbers a bit.

go weld one up brain, that's awesome! i've never heard of anyone on any of the boards messing with the 4EAT, so you'll have the excitement of covering new ground. you don't need any extra parts to play with do you? most (if not all) of us that have been doing it for years have never had it happen so not a real world stat worth worrying about for most of us. i like the probability of no work over the requirement of restructuring firmware. what you did is awesome, but that's beyond most folks. i wish i had the time to dig into that stuff, there's great opportunity there, but it's easy to swap a DC. hmmm...tangent time - did you ever finish that thread up with pictures of how you control it - knobs and doohickey's, i don't recall seeing that but would love to.

lots of oil seals are easily replaceable. best to do a timing belt job and seal it up at the same time. lots of information on various seals here, need to find out which is leaking. photos from under car can help us help you.

i replaced a friends mid pipe about a year ago - it's trashed already (see wanted forum for my exhaust request). there's a leak and i looked under and was like WHAT THE CRAP - the "new" pipe looks like it's 15 years old. it was $80 off ebay. but she can't do $500 for new OEM either, that's a bit absurd.

I have a bolt, crank, and sprocket if you want to PM or email me.

dumping it in an XT6 headed to the scrap yard. i didn't even use the kubota, the block split easier than i thought it would. the pistons handled much solid wailing with a hammer. anywone want some pistons?!

You replace head gaskets on every engine you replace? I don't think that's the norm and have never heard of a mechanic doing that. You would reseal a 2007 used engine? Head gaskets are more expensive for the majority that pay for it, so it's more than a typical gasket. If I owned a yard or when I sell engines I don't expect someone to do a head gasket job or if the head gaskets were bad, I'd sell it cheap (not that i sell them, it's too easy to find another to put it in ) We need not have the same modis operandi or anything so I realize we won't agree, just curious.

they must indeed be secret 6 point sockets if they fit 12 point bolts holding the block and heads! yeah right, duh flexplate bolted to block, that's awesome. it was only the one bolt behind the flexplate holding it together. the splitting of the block with a hammer and chisel began to crack all around that one bolt though so it would have eventually just sheared off completely.

Idle controller. On older models you can just clean out the idle controller because it gets gummed up and won't allow air through which the engine needs to start since the throttle is closed. Haven't had this issue on EJ's so not sure if the set up is similar or not? Intake isn't blocked is it - mouse nest or something? A disconnected vacuum hose (like the brake booster) is an easy no-start engine swap issue. But the fact that it did it before and is doing it now makes me think it's something else. What all is new - is the intake manifold from your original engine or the "new" one? The problem will be with whatever is left over from your old engine so if the intake came with the new motor that pretty much rules out all sorts of stuff. You definitely have fuel? Are you positive you have good spark at all 4 cylinders? I'd suspect the coil pack or ignitor is cracked up. Is the motor turning over enough to start - try cranking it with jumper cables?

i've actually installed two in mangled cranks without any key, never seemed to make a difference. on older stuff you just loose your timing mark positioning but there's a couple ways around that.

good deal man, that's great. it seems to me they should have done something. make sure they use Subaru headgaskets for this repair. i don't buy used engines and expect to put headgaskets on them. how about a used 2009 engine - would that need headgaskets replaced? how about a 2005? 1999....et.al.

can you take a picture of it? i'd be really surprised if it's not repairable. the fact that this was so hard on you the first time and he doesn't want to repair it again tells me you at least need a new mechanic for this one job. i'm not even a mechanic and i've fixed this before. sorry if you really dig this guy but this is silly not having it repaired (right). +1 to what they said the crank, it should be VERY tight. i don't even go by torque values on it, i use a 3 foot pipe and give it a LOT. i'm guessing i'm pushing 200+ pounds. what if he used a lock washer? here's what i would do if you were going to fix the crank pulley: 1. reseal the oil pump, can't get to it without removing the pulley. 2. tack weld the pulley so it doesn't come apart - weld across the rubber dampening material that can separate. 3. install all new timing components - get the ebay kits they're all brand new pulleys and tensioner for a reasonable price. if you drove the car long enough for another timing belt change you can even replace the timing belt without removing the crank pulley. you'd have to crack open the center timing belt cover - just install a used one or run without it like a bunch of us do.

how does it seal dave? i mean the subaru one i "made" doesn't seal at all between the lid and MC? is there a gasket or oring or something?

oh okay, you said "voltage earlier" so i was confused what you were measure, but you meant resistance. did you compare the resistance of the new ones to the old ones? did this car ever have a hitch on it? when i installed mine i remember that box and hoses all up in the rear crevices of the passenger side rear corner. is that where this emissions stuff is you're messing with? i feel like it needed to be slightly moved or pushed aside while installing the hitch bolts. just a wild guess, maybe someone didn't hook it up right or cracked something, etc?

i thought about it just because i kind of wanted to tear it down and maybe see what was going on/what happened. but then thought better of it thanks goodness. are those actual numbers, i'll give it to a buddy of mine that doesn't have a job! oh - and when i removed the pan there was a rather nicely sized gob of sealant up in the screen for the sump/oil pump supply. headgaskets were replaced 20,000 miles ago on it, so who knows i guess it either overheated too bad or something got in the oil supply.

no, but im' not sure what/why you're asking. i don't think "being in a trouble state" comes into play here. so you were supposed to measure voltages? was that with the car running? how did you measure and what did you get? doesn't have it printed underneath the engine hood does it? some older subaru's used to have vacuum diagrams under the hood, like XT6's. never needed one or looked at newer stuff?

Good time for a bump - Last week I just took an old cap and epoxied a fitting to connect the hose too. The Subaru cap is nowhere near air tight enough to hold the pressure. It's worse than the cap that Motive sends with the unit for Subaru's. What a great idea that's a pain to get to work right. Interested in seeing what this "plumbing cap" is that was mentioned two posts ago. How is it fitted/held tight to the MC i wonder?

seems high, but that older stuff might be more valuable in your area and maybe its' in great shape, that is low mileage which typically carries some value. don't over heat, run out of oil and it could get you another 100,000 miles though. and if you get on top of prevenative maintenance it can do it reliably. you could probably get into an impreza/legacy for that price too and they have much more to offer in some ways. might be hard to find one anywhere near that mileage for that price though. touring wagon - does that mean it's a turbo? if it's a turbo i'd be very cautious. they are notorious for having engine issues. headgaskets, cracked heads, blown engines. if i was going to drive an EA82 turbo i'd want to replace most of the cooling system hoses and turbo oil lines. i'd want an ebay timing belt kit on it as the pulleys are 20+ years old, that's just way too much for my liking and all of them that i've ever seen at this age are way below par compared to new pulleys.