idosubaru

yeah the harness plugs in, it is rather large though so it's not like it's just one plug on each end and you're done in 5 minutes. not a big deal either, but it's got a few connections. there's probably only one harness for powered seats- meaning all power seat harnesses also have the switches, plugs, and such for the heated seat wiring which goes to the passengers seat and the center console. only makes sense to make a one-size-fits all harness here. have a knife handy if you're going to a you pull it yard - once the seats are out start cutting away. this is of course...if your car doesn't already have it, which it might? you only need to route the powered stuff since you're not installing heated seats anyway. but that still requires running through/around the center console to get both sides and tapping into the power, wherever that is. either way it's all plug and play. in my opinion you're not missing anything with the heated seats, they're novelty. EJ engines provide heat fast. by the time the heat gets to my legs the car is warmed up anyway. if it's really cold outside then 70 degrees on 10 square inches of my body hardly makes a dent for the negative 5 degrees killing me everywhere else! it's kind of silly really. except the novelty, it does sound cool to rattle off "heated seat" when talking about my OBW, but i'd rather not encourage that in myself. i bought an extra set of OBW leather heated seats to install in my XT6 but if i install them i won't wire in the heated portion since they don't impress me much in my OBW.

no, try tirerack or other online tire places, they have tire reviews. in general cheap tires will provide below average performance in snow and other situations. pays to be a mindful buyer but "you get what you pay for" applies. sometimes you can keep your eye out - classifieds, here, ebay, craiglist for a set of take-offs at a reasonable price with good tires...sometimes new tires. good way to get a good set of tread and nice wheels.

I guess you cleaned it and then swapped in another one to see what happens? You cleared and it came back? I've heard of MAF/O2 sensor codes being related. I can't recall which way it is and I haven't seen it yet but I've heard folks that say they either have a MAF code that goes away when the O2 sensor is replaced or an O2 sensor code that goes away with MAF sensor replacement.

98 OBW's and other leg models had leather power/heated seat options. look for the connector under the carpeting. or you can also buy the harness and install it - it plugs and plays into your car. i actually have one i might sell for a 1998 OBW. i have the entire harness so it's plug and play and the switches too i believe. or just snag one from a car in the yard. it's big and all but you can do it yourself and not worry about splicing/etc. that being said - this is really simple, it just needs power, not much to it. it would be very easy to pull power to the seat area. there's nothing complicated about it at all, very easy actually as far as wiring. and this from a guy who does not like (isn't good at) wiring. if you start wanting heated seats it's not that much more but you have the additional switches in the console, wiring, etc.

engine/car description might help, but this shoudl be simple. there isn't a rear camshaft seal, so you're probably referring to the rear cam cap? those have an oring underneath. get it from subaru. it's REALLY simple to replace, like you could do it with eyes close. remove two bolts, cap comes off, replace oring, reinstall. other than removing the air intake for easier access there's nothing to it.

yeah something isn't right here. the tires not matching is super bad news. that is your first issue. and that probably has damaged something, but first thing is to get some matching tires on there. i'm starting to wonder if the rear diff ratio is different than the trans. do you know if any of that was ever worked on? diffs and trans are swappable but subaru offered typically 2 different gear ratios for the automatics - either a 4.11 or 4.44. if someone swaps trans (which has the front diff built into it) or rear diff they could have swapped it wrong. it's easy to do since lots of very similar subaru's have different final drive ratios.

CRACK, i was hoping it would be as simple as putting the legacy top hats on the impreza struts/springs. thanks, glad i know now before i start trying to do it.

no compression in all cylinders, sounds like he needs them all.

what is the P0106 code?

can you describe? i'm hoping to install 2002 WRX rear struts and springs in my legacy. i have the struts and springs, but no top hats. so you're saying i'll need top hats, i can't just swap the legacy top hats from the legacy onto the impreza stuff?

seems like they should have just pressed it back for you rather than "tighten it up yourself". but hopefully you're good to go from here. luckily these thigns don't just "blow up" and typically give lots of signs. i've put 20,000 miles on bad bearings, so you get plenty of warning and time to prepare.

the first gen EJ's are extremely reliable. the motor isn't likely to give you issues if you do this repair right and maintain it well. at this point you're not worried about reliability so much as the past TWENTY years of maintenance or not maintenance/abuse/neglect, etc. Being a cheap undesirable car they don't typically get top treatment by owners over the past 10 years. But they are rock solid even still. If you're up to replacing a few parts here and there over the years i wouldn't be surprised if you get another 50k-100k or few years depending on how much you drive. the online subaru dealers charge $30 each for the EJ25 headgaskets, i checked last night when i posted. the Ej22's should be similar. local dealers will often match the online pricing, they always do for me. they're selling parts at reduced prices anyway to local garages and mechanics, so they always give me that price too. ask nicely of course and tell them you're part of some online subaru communities and would rather order locally than online. it's about a 20% price difference.

the engine restore stuff is a waste, i wouldn't add anything to your oil again unless you check here first. you meant to say 1988 right, not 1998? lots of ticking information on here, it's very common and we're very familiar with it. don't bother checking oil pressure, that's not likely to be your issue. it's one of two things causing it probably. either the oil pump needs resealed to prevent air bubbles getting into the oil supply (the suction side of the oil pump block gasket gets sucked in), or the actual HLA's are dirty and sticking. the risolone/atf adding only works if it's the HLA's being dirty. though in some cases the oil pump can't properly seal even with a new gasket and the oil pump itself just needs replaced so the gaskets will seal properly. change your oil often on these things, the HLA's can not tolerate dirty oil well. the good thing is there's no valves to adjust, the bad is they can't tolerate poor oil change maintenance.

you say the binding didn't go away with the FWD fuse. but with the FWD fuse in you verified only the front wheels were being driven. i'm not sure we know exactly what's going on, you'll need to explain a little better, stuff like this is really tough if we can't see, touch, feel the car.

nice hit, glad it worked out, that's awesome. don't run it hot or low on oil and the Ej22 will last a long time.

the play might not be a concern, or they may not be to fault anyway. i've gotten freshly pressed/grease new bearings back and they have a little bit of play in them. i think i even posted about it the first time i did it and folks said it was normal. those hubs never gave me issues (i did both at the same time). that being said, Subaru hubs are easily tweaked and problematic. so i'd think there's a small chance of incurring problems in the future, mostly because EJ wheel bearings just suck like that in general, not so much that they pressed it out and in...guess that's just a matter of oppinion though, they shoudln't have pressed the bearings and suck to get the ball joint out, but hey they're good at what they do usually so i hate to point fingers. i'd be comfortable giving it a whirl and installing based on what i'm hearing. i'd hpe there's not much contamination in the bearings, like dirt and debris down in there.

with heads removed the pistons looked like every other one i've pulled apart so i assume they're fine?

i guess if the car isn't getting up to operating temperature it could be running in "closed loop" indefinitely. but sounds common to do where he is and it's really hot. if you got a temp gun, hit the hoses sometimes while driving. try different conditions, like extended highway, in town, etc. seems like it should be getting plenty hot, but who knows?

there's nothing to do with the head bolts - they aren't TTY head bolts, those stretch and need replacing. you're trying to impose procedures from one kind of part on something different. follow the head gasket installation procedure and you're done. the EJ25's eat headgaskets, so I'd stick with Subaru for all EJ's. fel-pro's are great for the EA82 and ER27 stuff, but they have been seen to not last long on the EJ25's (mdjc just commented on having a few returned to him a year or two after - he now uses Subaru only on EJ's). I personally wouldn't want them on EJ22's. i could be wrong, but doesn't seem worth saving $20 on such a big job. add 10 ft-lbs and call it a day!?

i'll be around the inwood/martinsburg area next week, you're not close to there at your new place are you? i'll be busy with wedding stuff, but could grab a coffee in the morning or something maybe to chill.

if they aren't the exact same part, they should be interchangeable without any work at all. describe it if you seen something obviously different?

you're right normally i'd scrap it and i should have this time too. but i mainly wanted to salvage the torque converter still attached to it. i was thinking zip the bolts real quick and it wouldn't take long. wasn't planning on my only 12 point socket cracking. congrats on the kubota, not sure how you'll do but i'm sold for life. thing is awesome, can't believe i waited so long to get one, i just never knew any different. no carburetor is awesome, starts every time even after sitting for months. and it's all metric bolts so don't need new tools :lol: mine doesn't have a hoe - is yours for rent!??!

if it's in immaculate condition, that's worth something. you can do the work so if you end up with a reliable car for cheap you're doing pretty good for $300-$400 or whatever you end up having in it. it's not worth much but if the exhaust and tires are in good shape i'd consider it a good find as those are expenses you can't easily avoid for long and can be kind of high. +1 to what he said - EJ22's don't blow head gaskets unless they've been overheated. have the heads resurfaced for sure, do not gasket slap this one. if you replace the head gaskets save yourself the money and don't buy the headgaskets and bolts. get Subaru OEM headgaskets and don't replace the headbolts, they aren't TTY headbolts so it's pointless to replace them....which is why Subaru and all of us Subaru familiar folks never do.

that is awful gas mileage. dragging brakes? leaking injectors? there's probably numerous possibilities but those are two that *might* be affected by sitting for a long time?

trying to disassemble a seized EJ25, down to the last two 12mm 12 point bolts before my socket cracked. i can't rotate the crank because it's seized so i can't remove the pistons to split the block. once all the bolts are out will i be able to separate the block just a bit to free the crank up and spin? how hard will it be to get the motor to budge a 1/4" or something with the pistons still in it? am i going to need to chain one end to a tree and chain the other end to my Kubota in order to split it? (please say yes!).