idosubaru

clean and grease the slides with brake caliper grease (not regular grease). do not skip this step. this is one reason it's good to do your own pads, i'm sure many places skip that step. i would guess very few of the subaru's that come through my hands seem like the slides have ever been touched...meaning shops aren't doing it. if the brakes aren't vibrating at all, keep your rotors. i'd rather have good stock rotors than lower grade aftermarket. if they vibrate or for a better job, have them turned - $15 each for me, but that is annoying i'm lucky enough to have a place right across from work. if you liked the pads that were on there i'd consider Subaru pads rather than taking your chances with something else. order online or ask your local dealer if they can match the online discounted price. i like the adaptive one ceramic pads from napa are nice and come with new hardware, the metal clips. but they're expensive. i just did my rear pads on my daily driver last summer. had to do them again last month - turns out the clips..eventhough mostly shiny and silver had just enough build up on one spot to prevent the pad from sliding easily and caused it to wear out quickly. all that to say - clean the metal clips that the pads slide into. brake cleaner evaporates very fast, no need to wipe down. done carefully you won't even need it. grease the slides with the rotor removed, install rotors (new or turned), clip in pads, and you're done. c-clamp - i don't know how to say size, but it's a big one, need to be able to gap like 6-8 inches or something like that. i've also used large channel locks and my hands before too, to compress the pistons.

i'd guess what GD is on to - the ignition wires have water up in the connections. check the ends. read the codes too if you get nowhere.

got it! i used a steel wire, stuffed it around the shaft and down in there and it pulled it right out. i was surprised it worked. bought the thinnest needle nose and smallest magnet i could fine - neither worked. needle nose still topped out on the outside rim before getting in far enough and magnet was a shade too thick. i was about to grind one or both of them down to fit down in there but thought to try the steel wire first. stuffing the torque converter back in didn't seem like it was going to work either, i tried but quickly saw how tricky it was going to be to line up the spring clip, the ears on the shaft, and the TC. the spring clip was wanting to stay "open" so to speak.

okay it worked. i thought i was going to be hosed since the flexplate is still holding the halves together and there's one more bolt underneath the flexplate that i forgot about. but i used a chisel and hammer to open the top and front of the block and it came open a good bit - 1/2" at least. when i started pounding the piston tops it SLOWLY started to walk and i got the TC bolts out. got my torque converter back. SCORE!

this will be about old pulley bearings. that's the most common cause of timing belt failure. the pulleys don't have a 100% success rate at making 200,000 miles and nearly every timing belt job i do I replace at least one. It's usually the sprocket that's the worst, so that's my guess. ebay kits all the way - new pulleys. bad news is, as you know, it's an interference engine. the good news though is that it's only bent valves, you shouldn't have any major damage - like to the heads themselves, or cylinder walls/pistons. so it's repairable within reason. have the heads repaired or buy a known good set of used heads from someone. someone on here i think has a set for sale right now? it's not all that hard to slap a belt on to try it out, but chances are small.

no i have not. i'm just thinking ignition related - so plugs, wires, coil, ignitor. coil and ignitor are often easy to swap out as a test too if you have them lying around.

ignitor is the little box in the engine bay close to the firewall and windshield, facing up top with a wire connecor plugged into it. someone recently posted a photo.

fuel filter won't fix this issue but it's on the drivers side, easy and cheap to fix. igniter and coil could just have some glitches? if the plugs/wires look new then it very well may be that a previous owner was trying to resolve the same issue.

right - EJ18 then, same thing applies though regarding headgaskets. no, i've ordered from a couple. subarugenuineparts.com libery subaru i think is the only one that's "close" there are some threads about the online vendors, they're roughly 20% cheaper than the dealers. bad plugs/wires usually give a cylinder misfire check engine light, but not always.

I don't think you need to worry about it. I don't know what loose backing plate screws can cause, I've never heard of them even causing problems but they're almost always loose so it's obviously not that big of a deal.

yeah weight/brand oil and filter aren't going to cause problems. i'd give it time too. did you tighten the backing plate screws of the oil pump and reseal the oil pump?

welcome WV member. 2. reboot your existing axles. aftermarket axles suck so bad it's a waste of time not to try and keep the original subaru axles booted. 3. engine in that car is an Ej22 so you won't have head gaskets so long as the car isn't overheated. EJ25 is the headgasket prone engine, not the EJ22. your drivability could be all sorts of things considering you have mileage equivalent to the distance of the moon! any check engine lights? if not then the spark plugs might be worth inspecting. wires on this car should be Subaru OEM, these EJ engines can be quirky with aftermarket wires. not always, but i've seen them run bad and give a check engine light (cylinder misfire) with new wires right out of the box. subaru wires are like $36 i think online or if the local dealer matches those prices.

did you try looking them up online at Advanced Auto Parts, Autozone, Rock Auto, thepartsbin, Subarugenuineparts.com, etc, they should cross list all applications?

like he said the EJ22T (turbo) was offered in 91-94 in the legacy turbo's. a very rare motor. a turbo engine should be obvious in that the heads should have some kind of ports for oil lines for the turbo. any oil port on the rear of the passengers side head would suggest a turbo engine.

nice hit, new gaskets! try at the top of the engine, across that seam. from front to back there's a couple spots where the gasket protrudes or is visible on edge. the accessories do get in the way. back doesn't seem helpful, front is mostly covered, and underneath i'm not sure, it's always oil covered :lol:

Yes, I've noticed the difference in the car. Best bet is to just look at a new and old gasket and compare them. Maybe I'll take a picture when I get home since I have a freshly reselaed EJ25 and old gaskets in the trash. The gasket protrudes on the top enough to look at the edges. Thing is - i've seen that when they get older it's hard to tell. I've "thought" they were old gaskets only to remove and see that they're the new style gaskets but the edges have all rusted/corroded and look like the old style gaskets. The engine I just tore apart I was told had the headgaskets done 30,000 miles ago but it only looked like one side was done because the other was notably "rusted" and seamed together. when i took it apart it was obvious they were both replaced at the same time and the one was a newer gasket, just didn't appear that way on edge due to age. Weird that one looked new and the other not as much on the outside. So, yes you can tell, but it's not always 100% possible. There are later model subarus with EJ22's, they just tend to not have all the nice trims and such. But they're also a bit cheaper usually. That $700 car you could pay someone to install an EJ22 for $1,000 or $1,000 to replace head gaskets (typical dealer cost is about that) and still be $1,000 less than what you're looking at in this thread. Then sell the heads/motor for a few hundred to recouperate some costs.

great, glad it worked out. hope it treats you well.

EJ25 head gasket issues\ have nothing to do with mileage. they were blowing them a long time ago, you can see websites with lists of documented low mileage cases. of the EJ25's that i've bought one blew at 34,000 and another around 80,000. of course most now are at 100k now, or have already been replaced, so that incorrect suggestion normally "fits".

doesn't look like a bad deal. over 10 years old and that mileage i'd want to do a complete timing belt job with new pulleys on it since it's an interference engine. they mention the low price - a lot of folks won't buy salvage title vehicles. this one looks minor, just the rear bumper? it's a DOHC - drive it a lot and make sure it doesn't overheat before buying. problem is these things overheat very sporadically when they first start to fail. ask or you can even look at the headgaskets and try to see if they've been replaced, sometimes you can tell if it was recent enough. as they age they rust and it becomes harder to tell externally by looking. even with engine issues though you could install new headgaskets or an EJ22 and be in good shape.

I would listen to GD on this one, but i'd probably still try it. print out his response and hand it to the shop?

a legacy is superior to the EA82 in so many ways. but it's still a 20 year old vehicle, it's hard to compare maintenance/condition. if the legacy has no maintenance history and ends up needing brakes, timing belt, water pump, tires etc then it may not be as comparable price wise. you can install a/c into your EA82. you'd need all the parts from an EA82 with A/C and install them into yours. it'll be R12 so you convert it to 134 which is really easy, just need adapter that come in the standard conversion kits at the stores. costs $20 and takes 10 minutes. essentially "converting" just means installing the right kind of adapter so you can fill it with 134 because they have different fittings for charging. but that's going to be a rather large job with lots of components if your EA82 never came with a/c. probably need a different heater core which means the dash has to come out?

oh right, EA style rear. YES! that's awesome, you're amazing.

nice hit, what is up with that backing plate being cut and welded? that looks awesome, good job!

i'm sure if you let it sit for long periods of time rust might ensue. but i drive a lot. the pulleys do get "more rusted" then when they're covered but it's on the unused portion of the pulleys so it doesn't matter, the translating surface of the belt stays perfectly smooth. unless they're in great condition i replace them at every timing belt change. $80 for an entire set of new ones on ebay makes it an easy decision and like he said makes for quick timing belt changes.

That's bizarre with the filter. Looks like one set was routed a bit different than the other? Nice pictures for reference guys! A bunch of us don't run timing covers, no need to. I don't leave them on any of my cars except the one with a chain.