idosubaru

Any check engine codes? I would install all the intake that was originally in the car like subaru360 suggested, did you give that a try yet? As for the cam sprocket, remove timing belt, swap cam sprocket, reinstall belt.

i wasn't talking about the EJ22 swap, you had that covered, it is the easy way to go. i was comparing the ej22 and ej25. considering the level of effort that an engine swap requires, the extra couple steps to install an EJ25 are minor. meaning - if you can do an engine swap then installing an EJ25 is a drop in the bucket.

No i didn't see or write that thread, thanks Roost, I'll check it out!

the inners break fairly often too because of heat from the exhaust degrading the rubber. clean up is annoying part of a few different jobs. glad you got it done, i've yet to hear about the "no-roll pin" axles? my 2002 has a roll pin, haven't worked on anything newer than that. you did the right thing - knock the passengers side pin out from up top. the drivers side you can get out of most subaru's easier from the bottom, it's the easier side. so you'd probably knock that one out quicker.

if it's due to the lifters then oil change is first. then i'd go with running sea foam, MMO, or ATF in with the oil. i'd try that for awhile and see what happens. when you're due for your next timing belt i'd be resealing the oil pump and tigthening the backing plate screws. or you can do that now if the ticking is that bad. HLA's ticking is usually benign so nothing to worry about except your nerves.

Any DOHC EJ25 (96-98 and some 99's depending on model) will work. In 98 the bellhousing bolt pattern changes but it still installs fine. All DOHC EJ25's have the issues I mentioned and are the worst EJ motors. Still good motors, just depends how you view cars, reliability, etc. I'd consider doing the timing belt components a necessity on that motor and the headgaskets wise for reliability. EJ22 avoids dealing with a/c, power steering components I believe, and the 98 bellhousing issue so it'd be a bit easier. Not substantially easier considering the effort involved in swap, the 98 would go in just fine if you want it.

since you mentioned it this is one job best left to someone else if windshields aren't too expensive for your vehicle. my last windshield was like $130 or something. can't imagine saving much with materials and tools and my time is worth way more than that cost alone. windshield installers i've talked too will install used windshields, but they won't warranty it.

Oh sorry I was mainly wanting to know about the valves, sizing those for standard EJ replacements. While I have my friends A/C apart I'd like to install new ones. Be nice to know if they're standard, all legacy/impreza the same, or something like that?

Great, thanks john. Installed the MC, get some time later to bleed it. Oh man was it dirty reservoir and fluid. Only a 2002 but I guess with 265,000 miles it's seen plenty of use, my buddy commutes like 200+ miles a day in this thing.

"swapping from a.....into...." i'm finding it hard to figure out which way you went and if you're talking about engines or trans or both. i'd read check engine codes and check for obvious vacuum leaks like the brake booster. as a guess reading confusing information I'm with Gloyale the cams likely need swapped.

Anyway way to know the size or source these without taking them out and into a store to match? How standardized are these? Are all legacy/impreza the same? Are R12 and R134 sytems different in terms of the valves?

yes they are replaceable by yourself. just have to find the right size, which is kind of annoying. i've always had to take them into a store and have them visually matched. you can remove and replace just fine. then you'll need to recharge. they actually make a really nifty tool that allows you to remove and replace a schrader valve without loosing refrigerant but few folks will have that tool.....and the mechanics that do probably want to charge you mad money for other parts too, not the 50 cent valve. funny thing is - these valves are very common to leak but how many "$50 A/C repair jobs" have you heard of when someone goes to have their A/C fixed? never happens.

The rack bushings are what is between the rack and the two brackets that hold the rack in place up under the car. They are not under any boots or anything really. Remove the two brackets and you can easily swap the bushings out yourself, very simple to do. I used whiteline aftermarket performance bushings that they use on Impreza's in XT6's. If they are bad you might be able to see visually or grab the rack and try moving/twisting it.

if there's a small delay between where you turn and when it actually goes that way, that might point to steering rack bushings too. that's my only experience with those being loose or bad, not sure what else they could cause. it does seem like a bushing would be more plausible given the propensity to have different characteristics left to right.

negatives of this engine and work arounds to bring them up to par: the EJ25 is an interference engine. if the timing belt breaks, which isn't all that uncommon, you'll have internal engine damage. the solution to that is an all new timing belt kit - belt, pulleys, and tensioner, a bunch of us on here use the kits from theimportexperts off ebay. the timing belt kits are much more expensive. ebay has great deals on timing kits complete with new belts and pulleys. but the DOHC EJ25 and newer style tensioners are more expensive. 96 EJ25 has a different style tensioner than 97+. do an internet or USMB search for headgasket or EJ25 headgasket. you'll be buying a 10+ year old engine known for head gasket issues, not the best combo for reliability. Subaru has an improved head gasket for the EJ25 which you could install prior to installing the engine. Ej25's also have piston slap and bearing failures. i have a few sitting in my garage right now (one with only 80k and blown head gaskets, another with 56k and seized bearings). again you can search all of that here too. this is why EJ25's are so expensive and hard to find, there's a high demand due to engine failures. another option might be EJ22's which are more reliable (don't have the head gasket and bearing failures of the EJ25), cheaper to maintain, and pre 97's are non-interference. a few less horsepower but gobs better than the EJ18 with the same reliability.

it's normal for problems to come and go or take awhile to reoccur. if you have an exhaust leak, or might, that's definitely the place to start. they'll be unbolting part of the exhaust to do the clutch, ask them to fix the leak.

aftermarket wires can cause cylinder misfires with these engines. EJ engines are notorious for it, i've seen new wires right out of the box cause misfires.

drain the fluid and check for any chunks, grit or silver shiny stuff. might want to take a pan if you think the guy doesn't want gear oil all over the ground.

Great thanks FT! I was hoping to hear someone with some similar experience. Don't really want to give a friend their car back without having a good feeling it's fixed.

I have another friends Legacy with questionable brakes. 2002 Legacy Wagon GT. 265,000 miles. Brakes work great...then randomly the pedal will occasionally slowly sink to the floor, like every 5 or 10 times trying to stop. I still haven't fixed the first car I started this thread about - wrong M/C, then it was ordered, they didn't get it, couldn't get it, finally ordered online and waiting for it. If the fluid was old it wouldn't do that would it....work perfect, brakes feel great, then once in a while gradually sink to the floor? Not that I'm against flushing fluid, but this is serious too. I'm planning on replacing the M/C in both just to be sure.

+1 to easy. one bolt for electrical connection. another wire disconnects with plastic clip. remove two bolts holding the starter in place. air intake is the only thing that might help to remove.

it's been awhile since i've dealt with this but pretty sure milesfox has a good write up on determining which one you need, i know i've referenced it before. just do an EJ swap. LOL

There's a couple small hoses under the intake manifold that are sometimes nice to replace the hoses clamps since you have access but i wouldn't consider them a necessity ,just depends on condition. no other gaskets to replace, just intake manifold. the OEM Subaru gaskets are nicer than aftermarkets but they aren't hard to seal either so either will work. be very careful when removing the intake manifold bolts, they commonly shear off due to corrossion seizing them internally to the intake manifold holes through which they pass. if they seem tight ask or read here for suggestion on getting them out without shearing. small hole - if you have access to it can you just spray some expanding sealant type stuff in there? those gaskets just seal off air flow, they're not under much pressure or any fluids. i wouldn't typically say that but it's an EA82 and you can go back and do it later if need be.

i'm not an aftermarket fan either, but that has little to do with aesthetics. website says premium is a $1,000 upgrade but i'm sure there's a catch or someway to encourage you to pay more? i'd just get the base model and have it in mind to score a set of wheels later. like when you need tires, just get a set of wheels. or buy them now, have the tires swapped and save your originals for snows? these jokers have 4 2010 alloy wheels for $150 each: 866-356-3924

unlike other motors, this one won't typically get worse very fast. you could probably run another 100,000 miles with that same slow oil leak. there's not much concern about it "blowing" so to speak, so rest assured you won't get stranded or anything serious. as for the oil pan, you sure it's dented? sometimes oil is just hard to read. replacing the oil pan is kind of annoying, i'd probably just wait until you do the head gaskets in 5 years and do the oil pan then.