idosubaru

thanks BH, got me curious now. didn't see anything obvious - which are the lateral links on this thing?

Megasquirt is probably the only option unless you want to burn serious cash. It's already been done and there's an entire webpage dedicated to MS on an RX, check it out. Fuel system will require some more work and effort. You can ghetto-modify it with a single injector in the intake manifold to kick in at a certain time, like high loads only when the stock system can't keep up. that's the easy way. that's been done before too. Upgrading injectors has been discussed and probably tried - try searching for that and you should get some reads.

Oh man, EGR...many manual trans don't have EGR so there's a chance the 98 won't have it either. If it does, no problem just block off the hole in the head and use your 1997 intake manifold. I blocked off the EGR in my engine and installed a non-EGR intake on it just like I'm saying. Just need to cap off the hole in the head for the exhaust, not a big deal but you do sort of have to "make something work".

They said it was "pretty far off" and said they got it right. Time will tell I suppose. Slight steering vibration is now gone, sweet.

it is friday so you'd hate to spend that Forty money on a nut! :lol: I guess M8 is to small come to think of it, that's like timing belt bolt size. those are 12mm bolt heads - that castle nut is a 17mm i think so it's much bigger. 1.25 pitch is definitely right though.

my dorkiness was irritating things. we're good. good thing he showed up so i could edit my mistake in my first reply.

Try swapping out the igniter from your donor car. I believe it's a little black gizmo located center, up top right by the windshield in the engine bay.

I meant take the nut off THE OTHER side, it's the exact same nut. Take it in the store with you, then match it up. He's got a good idea though - nuts are like 15 cents each - get the M8x1.25 like he said and size or two up or down to be sure if you can't remove the nut on the other side for some reason. If the threads are hosed I have two recommendations. The first is to chase the threads with a die to clean them up. If you don't have a die - buy or borrow one. The second suggestion is to tigthen it very slowly and oil the threads. Turn it, as soon as it gets tight go grab a drink. Then go tighten a bit more and if it's still tight to turn, go check your email. Keep doing that, this allows it too cool and greatly improves your chances of getting the nut on tight without completely stripping the threads. But they'll likely be really bad next time you ever go to remove it. If you tighten it all at once, the metal heats up from the friction, expands, and gauls the threads quickly. In the future...or right now...all the average sized nuts on a subaru are the same 1.25 pitch, there's only a very few that differ, but none the size of what you're talking about. So if you find another nut that's the same diamter anywhere on the car it'll fit right on that tie rod end. I've done that before, borrow a fender, engine, diff, whatever nut I can do without to sure something else up.

i think your car is an EA82, but not sure? pitch is 1.25 and it's a metric size. if it's already off, just unscrew it and take it into the store with you to make sure. you could also remove the other side nut, take it in with you and match it up. stick a few bolts in until it's the right size, then get a matching nut...etc, lots of ways to figure it out. attached with just a pin, are the threads still good? good luck! Hey - what happens when a tie rod falls off, that sounds terribly dangerous?!

good news - that is normal! i remember thinking the same thing the first time i pulled one too.

same engine. only difference will be the bellhousing bolt pattern changed in 98, but it actually doesn't matter. all the holes you need to use all line up just fine. all of your 97 bits will bolt right to it - intake, timing components, water pump, everything is the same basically. 99 was the big change year for the EJ22 so you should be golden. if you don't get it - let me know the info on it, got a buddy i'm helping to look at picking something up.

Do you know what retorquing the heads means? It seems like you don't since you didn't understand what I already explained? Like Turbone said you have to completely assemble the engine and fill it with oil and coolant, that stuff is necessary and not going to come out (not much) when retorquing anyway, so it doesn't save you anything to not do it. Like he said you can run an engine without coolant but that sounds dangerous and I don't think you'll get it up to proper temps for a retorque, but I really have no clue since I'm not overly familiar with retorquing. After assembling and running the engine for a certain length of time, then you disassemble the engine again to retorque: To save yourself some hassle install the CAM CARRIERS the first time around (right now) without any sealant since you'll be removing them again soon. You'll only run the engine for a short period of time, no point in sealing those, but I'd install the orings. Then seal them after retorquing the head bolts. If you're not going to retorque for some reason, then none of this matters, but I thought EA82's require retorque per the FSM.

You said you did lots of research - did you find anyone with the same symptoms? have you ever had torque bind or other issues at all? AT light blinking 16 times at start up? Did the FWD light come on with the fuse installed?

i also think it has to be cut. the only way you might get around that is to relocate the radiator. crack i'm trying to think of who has done it...Loyale something or another, the guy in another country I think? yellow car...i'm real foggy on details at the moment. what do you think about an EJ22?

oh yeah, right he's the man on that stuff. thanks rob!

maybe you missed it, you could try a longer bolt first, no drilling required. i was saying i run a same size (not oversized) tap through to clean the threads up and reach the bottom unused good threads. drilling isn't hard at all, the aluminum is very soft. good luck, sounds like you got it covered either way you go.

no luck with heli-coils? what problems did you encounter? when i've used them, they work really well for Subaru timing bolts like this. I've done a few of them and never had a problem.

My daily driver 2002 OBW H6 is wearing heavily on the outer edge of the rear passengers tire. It's definitely not air pressure related. What bolts/adjustments are there for the rear alignment in that direction? I have no problem going to get an alignment but I'd like to check things out first myself to see what's going on. I picked this up over a year ago wrecked and rebuilt it, salvage certificate, etc, but it was a front end collision, no rear damage. No uneven wear at all on the fronts, LOL?!

I've fixed this before. The easiest method is to just get a longer bolt of the same thread and pitch. Pretty sure those are 8x1.25 threads - maybe 10x1.25. Just take the original bolt with you to any hardware store, lowes, home depot and get one a bit longer. Typically the holes are drilled and tapped deeper than the original bolts they use. I have a tap and die set so I usually chase the threads in the block really good...maybe even making them deeper if they're not cut to the bottom. And then chase the bolt I'm using too to make sure they're good and smooth. A dab of oil to make it thread in nice and smooth. If the bolt is too long just use a washer or too as spacers under the head. If that doesn't work you can helicoil it too. It's really not that hard, just get a cheap-o right angle drill attachment. It's really easy - aluminum is easy to drill and the way those timing tensioners are set up it's cake to get to work right.

Good to know for parts interchanging, thanks.

can you detail those differences, maybe even in this thread? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=112390

i don't know what he's thinking, but i'm assuming he's still considering the EJ25. the specifics for that swap haven't been discussed here, so seems logical to try and help him find it.

maybe he can build a 2", he has for other older gen models. pretty sure i bought some 2" lift kit parts from him for EJ model stuff, so he might be able too. i was piecing together something for an oddball subaru so i didn't get an entire "kit".

Forester is based off Impreza platform I believe Scott. I would think your kits are almost ready made for the forester. You say up to 1999 - not sure what changes in 2000 but maybe the Forester is more like the later stuff than earlier since it got the Phase II engines/trans, etc. I might look there for differences in the forester. Curious - do you know what differences there are in 2000+ from the 90's?

Oh right you should have specifically said something about wiring. I was thinking of an EJ18 swap I did into an EJ25 that didn't require any wiring using an EJ22 manifold though so it doesn't work the other way around. The EJ25 is going to require some extensive wiring work, not plug and play and you ca'nt swap manifolds like you can between EJ18 and EJ22. If you really want to do it check NASIOC, they've done it over there and probably have info on making it happen.