idosubaru

Brakes are one of the more confusing items in terms of part differences/changes for Subaru. Hard to figure out sometimes. I'd keep as much of the hardware with the caliper as possible to be sure. Which means what he said/you did.

For sure you want Subaru only for the headgaskets. Leakage on aftermarkets is fairly common. I haven't even really tried after market seals on the newer EJ motors because I've seen enough low quality after market seals on the older one's it's not worth my time. I think you'd be okay most of the time but folks have seen issues with seals too (cam/crank). Clutch pressure plate depends on your driving style I guess and costs. Best to do it while it's all out but if you're easy on clutches and it's got a good bit of life left reusing it should be fine. I would definitely replace the clips, pilot bearing, and throw out bearing. Engine has 70,000 miles but the clutch components have 55,000? I doubt they were replaced at 15,000 so I'm missing something. Reseal the rear separator plate too with the newer metal ones if yours doesn't already have it.

that's a good suggestion for the OP wanting to keep his pollution in check. excellent. that's how discussion works....discuss, differing opinions...mention that the emissions aren't showing it, then he suggests - go have it tested. actually i'd like to see some numbers, an EJ without rear O2 CEL and one with rear O2 CEL.

Yep, sounds like you got the process down just right: Reclaim the system first, they remove all the refrigerant. Then you repair it - remove and install parts. Then return to have it vacuumed and charged (or charge it yourself). Some shops have nice machines that they hook up and they automatically do everything computer controlled. Pulls a vacuum, waits to evaluate losses, then recharges, all while the mechanic is working on something else. Given the in depth approach you're taking I'm assuming you'll want to do all of that. How much you go about doing it yourself is up to you and how you view statistics, mechanics, rules, etc. Everyone will differ from here. No one else but me works on my cars, so I unbolt parts, replace part, then charge with refrigerant. Simple and easy. I have a cheapy vacuum puller which doesn't do what the big machines do but it was cheap and I use it sometimes. I've charged quite a few A/C systems without pulling a vacuum and even the first ones I did lasted years and never had a problem. There's a significant safety margin involved. The system, dessicant, etc is well equipped. My Cousin (who works on HVAC for the US Navy) mentioned that you can charge one side while simultaneously holding the other side of the system open so it's essentially "pushing out" whatever is in there. If I've ever done that it's only been one or two times. I've had no repeat a/c problems so I don't worry about it too much. If the system isn't open long then you're hardly exposing it to anything anyway.

We can see things differently, this really isn't a big deal or worthy of arguing or cutting people down. Some see a bigger picture, some like to focus on smaller details. There's value and deficiency in both so I'll leave this tangent on that note. Schlit - two replies and both with cutting remarks. I'm sorry you don't like some on this board but a critical bent isn't all that positive, healthy, and beneficial either. It's just a discussion about cars.

you can, it's suggested often and many on here do it that way. turning the engine ensures you're getting it dead on since there's no alignment on the bottom. a good practice the first time around and the best "one size fits all" recommendation.

oh - on the oil pump you need to hold the rotor in place so you can loosen the the oil pump shaft bolt. i think i mentioned a 1" socket - i think it needs to be like a "12 point" if that's what they're call, it's no a six point. or you can try and loosen it while the old timing belt is still holding it in place.

gah, that sucks. i'd take it out, chase the threads with a spark plug thread chaser and try to install another plug. if it starts to get tight, work it back and forth and take LOTS OF BREAKs. as it gets tight the metal is going to start heating and expanding almost instantly (rub your hands together really hard...they heat up fast). if you take it really slow, work it back and forth and take a bunch of 10 minute breaks you might do little damage and leave enough metal to repair the threads with a chaser. i just helped someone do this on an intake manifold bolt a month ago. trying to remove it in 5 minutes it would have sheared. working it like i said, he got it out in about 30 or 45 minutes and saved the threads. it was so tight i was actually thinking that wouldn't work but i knew that was the only hope and he got lucky. the EJ25's are a real pain with spark plug access. they sell thread repair kits, i'd ask folks if there's anyway to get access to repair the threads? maybe loosen the lower motor mounts and jack the entire engine up, the #1 being up front yo umight be able to get access to it if needed.

Ha ha, I'll assume that typo is intentional? I'm still below beginner level but the thicker steel is much easier to weld with my little welder than really thin sheet metal/exhaust stuff. I feel much more confident and would certainly do a better job the second time around if needed.

Man this is a contentious topic. Too close to politics or something I guess? You might not pass your own standards in regards to your own question. You belittled and judged him...based on....how can you call him "missing something", why did you completely miss his point? You are missing the discussion completely, this has nothing to do with GD polluting. Communication 101 people - analogy, metaphor, please work with us here and have some level headed discussion, it might require some high level reading though! One way to be quantitative is for folks familiar with Emissions testing states where you see that older Subaru's (or other cars) have essentially the same emissions as newer ones. Even though they're not crapping out about O2 sensors all the time - older Soobs only have 1 O2 sensor, newer ones have a system of 2 and even 3 O2 sensors.....but no lower emissions, the catalyst is still working the same in the converter. They can have the same emissions levels with the Check Engine Light on. That light does not mean you're polluting. That's not how it works.

Awesome sounds like you've done some homework, that pays off well. The crank bolt pulley is 22mm and they can be VERY tight, particularly if they've never been removed or it's been awhile. it's usually close to impossible to get it off with just a socket, you'll need a long breaker bar or pipe to put over the socket handle. or an impact wrench is ideal! Drive plate stopper few folks use, it's not necessary. you don't say whether automatic or manual, the auto's are easiest. auto's have square holes every 90 degrees or so in the flexplate, just jam a nice stout screw driver or socket extension into a hole to hold the engine while removing the crank bolt. if it's a manual jam on the brakes and put it in gear to hold the engine in place. driveline and rocking tend to produce a lot of "give" and make it hard to get enough stank on it. yes 180 off, sounds like you got it. easiest way to install the tbelts is line up the middle of the ||| marks on the flywheel with the arrow in the bellhousing, and the drivers side cam timing mark, then install the drivers side cam. rotate the crank 360 degrees and line up the ||| marks again. the drivers side will now be pointed down at 6 oclock. line up the passengers side cam mark and install that belt. you're done. rotate the engine 2 or 3 times by hand to make sure you're not a tooth off. more modern Subarus you actually line up both passengers and drivers side at the same time and install the belt, so they're "in synch" so to speak. so people mess up the older ones fairly often if they're used to newer stuff. good luck!

How did you check for air pocket? did you properly bleed the radiator through the bleed screw? Is it loosing any coolant, overheats every time 100% of the time? EJ22's don't blow headgaskets unless they were run hot. They aren't problematic like the EJ25's, so the bent towards assuming head gaskets isn't quite the same here.

EGR's they're easy to clean, just remove and spray it out. or buy a new one, very easy to replace, somewhere around $100-$150 for the valve and a new gasket. that's not going to fix your O2 issue, though. new Subaru converters will most likely do what you're looking for, is there a reason not to go that route? I'm guessing cost but you sound eager to be done with it? Are those old converters under warranty, return them? The EGR scenario was an analogy, not a fix to your problem. The one car not saving the planet also was an analogy, not about how polluting is okay. Analogy is a communication technique. The black and white rendering of everything is not helping you. The carbon footprint of efforts to address this is probably more than the zero or negligible impact of your current set up. It's likely that this makes the environment worse by trying to fix it but at the gain of feeling better about it. Your earlier suggestion holds here - one person...but if everyone replaces benign parts: generating more trash, transport, fuel, costs, storage, delivery, maintenance, electricity etc. We are right back where we started - the system is inefficient and wise people that can grasp the big picture see that. It shouldn't be this hard to say "the government is inefficient", I think I hear people complain about that every day. :lol: Good luck, hope you find a way to move on from this issue.

that's where they belong...well maybe the scrap yard has less of a carbon footprint? you're likely going to need to revisit cleaning a carb or possibly rebuilding it. seems obvious you need to focus on whatever regulates the idle.

I've swapped EJ25, EJ22, and EJ18 manifolds, they're all the same layout, bolt pattern, etc...probably the same part (keeping dual port/single port in mind). So yeah, I'd think you can use this for whatever you want, it's going to bolt right up. I left the EJ25 manifold in my current Legacy Lsi when I swapped an EJ18 into the vehicle. All the EJ stuff has always looked the same to me from a layout stand point.

that's a huge job, i'd want to know for sure as well. pull the engine only to find out that it's not the flexplate.....well snap head, what to do then? is the motor hosed? was it something else? pull the heads or get another motor? best to make sure if possible what it is or at the very least for sure where the noise is emanating from. what JCE said, can't start the car with the flexplate disconnected because the starter gears are "trans side" on the torque converter. that's a nice thought though to disconnect it and try that. not sure what you could look for but maybe it might show something still. i know this has happened to a few folks and i'm wondering if you have gotten an idea how/where they tend to crack? my guess is the failure mode is very similar every time, this would help if you wanted to look into it further. but i haven't seen it myself yet. yep, that's it.

that's what i would have done. i've never had a problem with afermarket sensors but i haven't used many in EJ's. thing is, those early gen legacy's like yours seem much more forgiving mechanically/electrically anyway so i'd think about it even less in those. rock on.

get an ebay timing belt kit. for $60 or $80 you get both timing belts, all the pulleys and tensioners. it's so cheap it's silly to leave the 20 year old pulleys still on there when they are prone to failure. that's typically what i do - get it all done while the timing belt is off, but water pump, oil pump reseal, cam seals, and crank seal adds on a ton of additional time, particularly your first time around on all of that stuff. just beware of that. "cam cap orings" the cam carrier orings are actually different and far more involved to replace. thepartsbin.com sells cam seal kits which just means a seal and an oring - both come in one package. the cap that the cam seal presses into actually slides off the front of the engine after removing 2 or 3 bolts and under that is the oring - really simple. when i remove the cap I often install the seal then before reinstalling it. you're supposed to install the seal with it on the car but it's much easier to install it out of the car. use a 1" socket on the oil pump rotor to remove the outer 12mm bolt on the shaft when replacing the shaft seal. that's probably the only tip you really need, everything else is fairly straight forward. make sure you know how to line up the timing belts, the markings are 180 degrees off where on newer cars it's the opposite - they're all the same. so people mess that up often. i'd remove the radiator, it's not necessary at all but really helps to have the space particularly when you're knocking the crank seal in. frankly they're kind of annoying to get seated due to lack of space, i leave them if they're bone dry. if it's even a tiny bit wet though i replace. like he said, most of the time the hardest part is getting the timing covers off, those inserts like to break free and the bolt won't come out. many of us just leave the covers off so we don't have to deal with it. i don't run covers on any of my cars except the ones with chains.

yeah this is benign, nothing to worry about, their max tire pressure is way higher than that and that certainly has a safety margin built in to it as well.

hmm, yeah the water thing sounds bizarre, you're sure it's water and there's that much of it? not sure what to say about that, but could it just be stuff condensing and burning off from sitting for so long, i don't know? you have water or antifreeze in the radiator. i was talking to a good friend today about heading back to Hawaii if that's where you location implies. big island was my favorite, actually walking up to flowing lava and poking a stick in it, that was awesome. can you still do that?

they make conversion boxes like GD said, but they aren't cheap. and to have someone else install it is going to be really expensive and to install it yourself will probably mean the judge won't believe you (read below). i think your chances with the judge are rather small. if it was this easy to get off - everyone would get a ticket and then claim they had larger tires, it was off, and they fixed it. if it was that easy it would get exploited all the time, that's how the general public is sad to say. in your case, put regular size wheels/tires back on, that's also a solution.

control arms and struts bend fairly easily in accidents. it'll likely be one of those that need replacing. strut is easiest, if you got any spares you can swap that out just to see.

engines that have sat even for short periods of time (months) can run bad. particularly Subaru engines with HLA's....I think those early EJ's have HLa's and they can sound terrible when first started after awhile and all the HLA's have bled down. how long did you run it? vacuum leaks are common with engine swaps too, spary some carb cleaner, starting fluid or whatever around the engine while it's idling and see if that changes the idle at all. if it does then there's a leak somewhere. Not running good - how old is the gas in the car? How about tune up items like air filter, PCV, plugs, wires.

Great, I'll keep the entire rear then as a unit. So to put it on an EJ trans means it won't bolt up right to the car because the mounts differ? Thanks again Gloyale, now I can ditch this trans taking up space.

With all that talk about cash I would just plan on allowing that EA82 to do what it's best at - be cheap transportation - while you try and get ahead and save up money. +1 to an EA82T swap not being worth it. All the headache, less reliability, good possibility of problems in the future and they're 25 years old and not that powerful. Don't overheat it or run it out of oil and that EA82 will last a long time. With a few dollars for timing kits and tune up stuff they're reliable. I'd plan on an ebay timing kit in the future and stash some money back for brakes, bearings, alternator, etc - stuff that will be problematic on any vehicle you own.