idosubaru

You'll probably be fine, there's no way to quantify it though so it's sort of an impossible question to answer. Your statistical probability increase with every mile....for some people that's meaningless, others have low tolerance for surpassing threshholds, we can't tell you what kind of person you are! Statistically speaking you have a very low chance of failure. I never torque the drain plug, it's iron on iron...snug...snug, check...that's good.

Pulled a seized EJ25 out of a 99 Legacy GT today. I slid the torque converter shaft out still attached to the engine and detach it at that clip. The torque converter stayed with the engine, the remaining long shaft slid back down into the trans. I can easily remove it by removing the trans first but I'd rather avoid doing that:lol: I'm thinking maybe there's a set of extra long needle nose pliers that can get down there, but it's in pretty far? Next bet is maybe jacking the rear of the up really high so in effect the trans is "tilted" down, aiding it in sliding forward. Anything else worth a shot?

Awesome, good luck! How's the rotor turning market? Last place I lived machine shops didn't even like turning rotors. Now where I live lots of places do it and it's cheap. I'd imagine your area is easy to find folks to do that, might take a few phone calls if you haven't had it done before.

EA82/ER27 ticking sounds horrible when really bad, not far from sounding like a knock. you said you replaced the oil pump "gasket", is that it? There's technically 4 steps to resealing and EA82 oil pump. mickey mouse gasket, the shaft seal, an oring, and you're supposed to put tiny dabs of anaerobic sealant at the top and bottom of the oil pump at 12 noon and 6 oclock due to imperfections where the two block halves come together. The last step is probably the least important and i wonder how many folks skip it. You might need a new oil pump. I've seen others have this problem with multiple reseals not sealing it up, just helped a subaruxt.com member last year with this same issue. I sent them a new pump and it finally cleared it up. It's my "guess" that the thin oil pump housing gets slightly warped and just won't seat properly to hold the gasket in place. Might be something else, but whatever the cause - I've seen new oil pumps solve incessant ticking symptom. I would try a new oil pump before tearing the heads down. Particularly given that it's both sides for you. A sticking HLA will be noticeably one cylinder/one side (or two cylinders if it's two).

Turning the rotors is a good idea. I haven't seen it on Subaru's but I've seen other vehicles blow through brake pads in under a year. "Lifetime Warranty" doesn't mean much in terms of quality. Often it means low grade in this biz. Another way a pad wears quickly is if the clips in the calipers are caked with blackness or have rust. This causes the pad to stick and ride the rotor, saw a 96 Legacy last week with 9 month old rear pads, one was done due to hanging on a rust spot on the caliper clip.

check those gear ratios, subaru was a mess with gear ratios.

If you want reliability stick with the EJ22. EJ25's have head gasket, piston slap (though that's benign), and far more internal bearing issues. Just picked up a Legacy GT last week with a seized motor, they're rather easy to find. If you want a few more horsepower go with the EJ25. Your 2000 EJ25 is not a plug and play swap, that needs to be an earlier Phase I DOHC EJ25. You'd have some trickier to play with to get it to work, it's not easy. I don't think anyone here has tried yet, it's hardly worth it really considering it'd be simpler to just sell that one and get a DOHC.

it's a good idea to pull the wheels and check both pads on each side too. i've seen numerous times where one pad was done in less than a year. cheap pads, a dirty caliper slide, etc will cause premature pad wear.

4EAT's are essentially the same in many ways internally and interchangeable if you can bolt them up and get the electronics to play. if the plugs are different then you'd need to splice in an EA connector onto the EJ trans. some EJ trans have electronic speed sensors (instead of direct gear driven), but just swap it out for your cable driven one. some EJ trans i believe have an additional speed sensor too, just ignore it. the 98+ EJ trans has an external filter but is otherwise the same as well.

woah $675 from a Subaru dealer, that's a good price I'd believe for all OEM and labor. side note, i meant the dealer in Maryland charged $699, not sure what they charge here, but i'd guess about the same given prices on other work.

Yes OBW i'm willing to experiment and I have plenty of engines/parts to play with. There has to be a simple way since there are non-EGR automatics. Odd thing - is this ECU came from a non-EGR auto and triggered EGR codes, so apparently the ECU's are interchangeable.

Yeah I agree nip, it's a tough call to let them go another 100k and I rarely do. Odd you mention endwrench as Subaru dealers don't typically replace all the pulleys, folks post on here that dealers tell them not to replace water pumps/pulleys. Local dealer here charges $699 for only a timing belt change - add all that stuff and it's a $1,500 - $2,000 job. Ebay kits are around $200. I and others on here have always used the ebay kits with the exception of one where I only replaced one pulley because the rest were in excellent condition.

yah, no doubt i'd give more than to figure it out at this point. !

My recommendation is OEM Subaru belt and inspect the pulleys. But if you like to know and recognize it's a bit ambiguous: Pulleys should be inspected and any that are noisy or spin too freely replaced. Original pulleys have to make it 210,000 miles. Older Subaru engines with 60,000 mile intervals would be checked three times by that mileage. So err on the side of caution. Hard to say really without seeing the pulleys but yours is new enough that you shouldn't need many/any pulleys. The lower cogged idler is the most common to replace. The newer style timing tensioner is a bit less reliable than the older ones, but that's an expensive "maybe". Water pumps I often replace as preventative maintenance but the newer style are very robust and rarely fail. Expensive to replace it all, to gain a miniscule amount of protection since failure is rare. But if the price tag is worth the added reliability and protection you might want to replace some other things.

Disclaimer rightly heard, I am perfectly fine ruining my car. Thanks for the help OBW, I think I'm probably hosed if you don't know, thanks for helping. Others have put a resistor in for the EGR and it didn't work, I believe they said because it looks for more than resistance. But it shouldn't need fooling - the ECU just needs to think it's a non-EGR automatic which Subaru has made in rare cases. So how to make the ECU *think* it's a non-EGR? The engine, intake, and ECU are from non-EGR vehicles. The 5 dollar question is how does Subaru make a non-EGR automatic? No mention in any of the FSM's I have. MAF? TCU? Body wiring? Am I missing a solenoid somewhere? Is the non-EGR solenoid different? I wish I would have had Larry (lmdew) cut off the connector to the ECU of the non-EGR auto so I could have compared the wires to mine. I'd love to find a car like that again to play with, I had one about 5 years ago.

Yes, you can drive with the rear half of the driveshaft removed and drive around all day long in FWD. I've done it before and others have too. You may have damaged the rear output shaft hub, I've heard of those breaking before due to torque bind. It's the rear most section of the trans gearing essentially that is the linkage to the rear clutches. Torque bind stresses it. That might be the noise? I would attempt the driveshaft removal and see if that alleviates the noise. Or just replace the Duty C and see what happens. It's not terribly hard to do and can be done in the car, no need to remove trans. There are some REALLY good threads with pictures on this board, search for those. Removing the exhaust is the most annoying part, hopefully it's not too rusty?

They are very rare, but they're out there. I'm equally confused about why/how Subaru did it. It came from a non-EGR automatic. I never looked closely but I don't recall seeing a connector when I did the swap, I assumed it didn't have one. That makes sense, no sensor = ECu doesn't see anything? I just can't figure out how these ECU's "know" or "don't know" it's a non-EGR auto. I had both 0400 and 0403 yesterday and no others, been driving the car like this for a couple years. I cut the wire and drove the car 35 miles and now have only 0403. So either I haven't driven enough and 0400 comes back or cutting the wire got rid of one code (doubtful)?

To determine the whining, find out if the noise is up front or more center/rear-ward. Driving with torque bind is a bad idea, you're putting strain all through your drivetrain and transmissions. Have you tried installing the FWD fuse, that should be the first step. If that doesnt' work and you insist on driving it like this, at least remove the rear half of the driveshaft so you're essentially in FWD. First step - install FWD fuse. If that works then your clutches are bad. If the FWD fuse doesn't work then your Duty C is probably bad. Installing the FWD fuse...or if that doesn't work...just removing the rear half of the driveshaft will allow you to run in FWD. Maybe you'll get lucky and it'll even keep the trans from whining and failing. Yes a used transmission is fine. These transmissions are reliable enough that used is a fine option. There's little demand so they can be found cheap. Change the fluid and don't drive it with torque bind.

I installed in a 96 Legacy an intake manifold, engine, and ECU from non-EGR automatic EJ vehicles. So the only thing left from the EGR set up is the body harness - right? I cut the EGR wire at the ECU - pin 71 Black/Pink. I still get the EGR code. Why is the computer looking for an EGR when it comes from a non-EGR engine and has a non-EGR engine/intake manifold? So it has to be some other wire/circuit or sensor or the feedback from the TCU (Unlikely)? If they make a non-EGR automatic - why does Subaru not have that in the FSM's?

Paul - any chance of some details on that previous deal? Any idea on what this is worth? Is there any market at all for this older stuff? This stuff needs to have some potential for someone to bite. A group buy would be difficult, there would be many different possibilities, the logistics of that are enormous. Just the dissemination of information alone would be phenomenal - folks wanting parts, wanting to know years, cross overs, colors, conditions, shipping costs, and more we can't think of. It's a huge undertaking. It's hard to part out one car some times!:lol: Hope someone connected here figures something out.

I've seen them sitting at angles with no bracketry hanging in place and have even run without them, so pretty sure it doesn't matter.

no heat is typical when these overheat due to air introduced into the cooling system. so you probably either have a leak, it was low on coolant and never topped off, or headgaskets. these engines are notoriously hard to bleed, did you follow the proper bleeding procedure when refilling with coolant? was it low on fluid the first time around that you did the thermostat or did you check the fluid level? your symptoms sound like head gaskets, but check easy things first. bubbling in the overflow tank after you shut the car off or black nastiness in there, are classic EJ head gasket symptoms. the EJ22 doesn't typically blow headgaskets except when previously overheated. if it ends up being a head gasket then chances are good the engine was previously overheated. these engines aren't hard to find cheap so given the high miles and probability of a past overheat i'd probably swap out the engine if you can find a good deal and the car is still worth it to you. i know i can find them cheap around here. i even have a spare 97 OBS EJ22. EJ's are also notorious for passing "typical" head gasket tests and symptoms. the best, although not 100% reliable, test for these engines is the exhaust gases in the coolant test. i think you can buy a kit for this from the auto parts store, right? i've never done it, just seen the mechanics version.

doesn't sound like rod knock based on your description and familiarity. good luck, hope you can track it down. i've seen other cracked flexplate threads, not sure if it was this forum or another though. be nice to compare symptoms to someone else that has had it, sounds like you did?

Yep bigger impact or longer breaker bar would be best. Soaking in penetrant and heat will help. Problems might just be starting for you though. There's a chance of the bolt shearing off. And then once the nut is off the bolt probably won't come out of the control arm, they like to seize in place. Good luck.

Yeah I'd try MMO or Seafoam first. If that didn't work I'd dump ATF in the oil. I've driven around a week before with like 2 or 3 quarts of ATF in the oil to free up sticking HLA's. I doubt changing the oil will help unless the oil is terribly old. I've never seen oil changes be more than coincidental or temporary, *if* it works it'll be ticking again sometime in the future. I've seen frozen HLA's in engines that have been overheated before, was this one ever run hot? The frozen HLA's wouldn't free up and wouldn't even compress with a vice. Personally if you're going to fix it I'd swap heads. EA82's are really easy to swap heads on without removing the engine. Others on here love pulling motors, but I find it takes longer. I also have air tools so all the cam and head bolts zip right out.