idosubaru

yep looks right to me.

No sealant. The subaru gaskets are much sturdier and stout than aftermarkets. Sometimes it doesn't really matter but I like to use Subaru on these. The only hard part is if the stud threads are stripped. In our area of the country it is literally unheard of for the exhauts nuts to come off without pulling the studs out too. not a big deal, just use them like bolt, so long as the threads aren't stripped. don't overtighten as these threads strip very easily.

Valve cover gaskets are not that difficult. Doesn't matter much but we don't know what motor you're talking about. Based on which legacy it is it could be a 2.2 or 2.5. Should run $100-$200. Not much else you can do when doing valve cover gaskets. I believe there are spark plug gaskets on some motors, those might be an option but i'll defer to someone else on that and wait to see which motor you have. I'd replace a 10 year old timing belt too, and yes it's an interference engine.

are these identical symptoms to before you replaced the tail housing? if so then it's hard to imagine identical symptoms and I'd look elsewhere. i'm wondering if there's a mismatch front to rear - final drive ratios don't match in the front and rear differentials or one of the tires is way out of spec - not the right size or warn, low on pressure, etc. since FWD works and it can lock the clutches - i think i'd go with installing a switch but i'm weird. i'd install a switch to toggle between FWD and full on locked transfer clutches for snow. first, i've done it before and in thise case it should work since both of those conditions occur. but only one customer in a million would accept it.

i probably didn't give it enough set up or did it wrong. hitting it required an angle otherwise the punch just goes through the hole - and would propel it rather than getting enough down force on it to move it. i pounded like crazy to get it on there and i have plenty of other sockets so i'm not too worried about it. maybe some day.

There's a $5 fix for a lot of the catalytic converter problems involving installing a non-fouler between your rear O2 sensor and the exhaust. very simple and effective for the common and terribly annoying O2 sensor codes if that's what you have. I've seen folks (on subaruoutback.org i believe) replace all the sensors with Subaru OEM and the converters with Subaru OEM an still have the codes. granted, that is rare, but the point remains the same that the O2 codes are notoriously unforgiving. I wouldn't waste too much money on them. As for the sunroof repair - get a few estimates. Sometimes local Community Colleges, Vo-tech centers, and other training facilities will repair things very cheap (or free) as part of a lesson or training.

DOOD - slow down, that's amazing! I'm working in the office, please don't do this to me Miles!!!

okay actually i did some leg work for you. look at the bottom left hand of the screen right now, scroll all the way to the bottom without clicking anything - this forum does an automatic search for you based on the thread title - showing similar threads. looks like there's some copper head gasket info out there - including someone that has tried it 3 times (i didn't read through the post though): http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50993

go visit NASIOC or any other forum (doesn't even have to be subaru) - google it - all you need is copper head gasket info, there's nothing special about subaru motors...particularly EA82's. just keep in mind aluminum block and heads and you're golden. i'll steal a GD line - this isn't a NASA bird, it's an EA82. i don't think there's too much EA copper head gasket experience here. did you try a search? miles - you're funny - how long did it take you to write that?

oh wow, lift engine, drop cross member yeah that sounds terrible. good luck will, hope you figure something out. I forget what size it is - 12mm? Wonder if you could grind it down to 11mm and then wail a 6 point 11mm socket on it? I did that once but with a bad lug nut. Actually the lug nut is still on my bench wedged into the socket, I have no clue how to get it back out!!

99's are notorious for speedometer issues - you'll need to replace the dash portion most likely. If you replace it with a used one, get one from a 96-98, not a 99! Personally I'd look for one with roughly the same mileage. Could be the sensor but considering how often these have issues it's probably the in-dash speedometer. There's a good bit of info about this problem try searching here or on google. It's an oddity of the 99's only for some reason.

weld a nut to the top of the bolt, that's my favorite way of getting them out, but good luck with limited access? yes - at least some motors have access from underneath, usually with a small plate/cover to remove first.

Are the heaters even available or is this an aftermarket/splice job to install new ones?

If you're asknig if the ebrake will slide right onto the XT6 I think they are the same in that regard so you should be fine. Can't imagine that would be all that difficult to work around. If you're using XT6 calipers, I'd get at least one rebuild kit shipped with your stuff if you can't get them over there. They're really simple to rebuild and the kits are cheap. They were on sale for like $3 a few years ago and I bought a few (rockauto.com).

If you're willing to go through all the trouble of that - why not just do a proper head gasket job, at least try that first? Mill the heads, use Fel-Pro permatorque gaskets and add one step to increase the final torque value 5-10 pounds. If you're wanting to go all out have the block machined flat too, but that sounds ridiculously insane, but so is copper head gaskets and all this work. Done right the engine will only be limited by you, your maintenance and care of the engine. Don't let it overheat, over boost, monitor EGT's, etc.

Yeah I agree, that is strange, just bad luck I suppose. But these newer style tensioners aren't as reliable as the earlier tensioners, kind of annoying they went backwards on such an important part. I'm sure it's happened but I've yet to see any of the earlier styles fail, I never replace them. I've seen them seem perfectly fine not moving - perfectly tight - but then slapping when running or accelerating. Your 99 EJ22 is interference so definitely want to fix asap.

Heat the bolt head good and hot - can you get it red? At least heat it and let it cool even if it's just a propane torch. The expanding/contracting will help free it. If you have to remove the intake to get a clean 90 degree shot at it then I'd do it. Good luck will, these suck!

Do not replace that strainer - it will gain you nothign over the life of the vehicle. Return it and burn the cash in your fire place, you'd get more value that way. But if you're still amped up to do it - yes unbolt stuff and replace. Nothing fancy about it. The trans fluid gets pumped to the radiator, so all those hoses are filled with regular ATF, it passes through the radiator side tank as a heat exchanger.

Yep - i've seen this before. Your typo is strange ".2 SOHC" but it's an interference engine - if the belt lets loose you'll be having internal engine damage. This needs fixed immediately, although I've put a few miles on one that's a really bad idea. These tensioners are known to be less reliable than the old syle, even Subaru's brand new ones aren't as reliable as the old style. Maybe it can be replaced under warranty?

setting the torque converter is well covered. those posts need to be added tot he USRM if they are not already. as for the axles - no you don't need to do anythign to the hub side - helps but not necessary. the easiest way is to remove the top strut mount bolt (mark it first so you can resinstall the head int he exact same position). loosen the lower and then you can rotate the entire hub "out" and pull it away from the trans. strut bolts are much quicker than ball joint and no worries about rust, corrosion, or tearing the ball joint boot.

yeah, what he said: why are the belts and pump being replaced? that's not a terrible idea given the 10 year age of the vehicle. did they verify the oil pan gasket replacement? actually - i'm going to tell you they didn't. i would not do that...not until 100% sure. almost all subaru oil leaks end up getting the oil pan mating surface wet, making it look like it's wet and leaking but it's not leaking, it's only wet. cam seals, crank seals, cam orings, head gaskets, rear separator plates, rear main...all of those can get the oil pan wet. replace the valve cover gaskets first - fix all your oil leaks - then clean and inspect the pan for leakage. sounds like someone is behind on their mortgage payments here, be nice and tell them what you want to do and how to proceed.

EJ vehicles are notorious for warping rotors (even stock Subaru rotors), loosing wheel bearings, and other things. There's another thread where GD and I talk about the propensity of EJ's to warp rotors. Make sure your wheels and hub surfaces are all clean and free of rust, grime, corrossion, build up.

Thanks Emily and sorry. I was confused in October when I thought I couldn't get in touch with MWE, I assumed the number was wrong. Back in Oct I ended up talking to him through a number I got from someone else.

Oh cool, well that gives me a reference point anyway. I'll need to end up with one of these someday to play with.

Looks like MWE has a new phone number? I had it a couple months ago and lost it - anyone got it? The number on CCR's website isn't correct - unless they changed it recently.