idosubaru

yeah - nice info torxx - that should be in the USRM or something! was it bigger, that's what i experienced before too, but with a Fel Pro crank seal? Phase I DOHC right? PM sent.

Just try a new switch or removing it and jumping the two contacts that engage the 4WD - if it works then you know the switch is bad.

Yes, sounds like you got it right. I don't believe it's just a single year though - the 99-2002..or whenever the last year for the EJ22 was should all be Phase II and interchangeable with minor adaptations if any at all. If you're familiar with the Phase I motors, it's really easy to tell just by looking, the newer ones look a good bit different, it's not like it's "hard to tell". The spark plug wire position is a dead give away.

Mr. radon - Are you saying there was no valve damage? What made you take it apart? Good luck getting it fixed, sounds like it should be straight forward for you. actually funny thing you mention that erik - if my memory serves me correctly - mr. radon is one of the people to have a rear main seal leak after replacing it on a Subaru and one of a number of reasons why I say not to touch them unless they're wet.

good point, if someone is doing those things then they definitely need a valve or just pay someone else to do it! well said, what a few folks on here do with their cars definitely isn't average, a unique bunch in terms of cars. i "use" mine, it's not a hobby. my friends pay mad 4 digit amounts for their bikes and gear. cars are easy to buy and maintain cheap and still be insanely functional.

no, they are all accessible with various amounts of hand jamming and tight spots. no special places or tricks to it, just get what you can. oh - i use needle nose pliers - insert them into the hose an "open" the pliers as hard as i can, rotate inside the hose then do it again. this stretches them. heat - excellent idea, like that.

you probably already know but the Subaru exhaust gaskets are way nicer than aftermarkets. because of that the Subaru gaskets are amazingly reusable, i've done it countless times. if they look decent, they'll work fine. but they're cheap and easy to replace so who cares. strange i've yet to see one of the O2 set ups like that. so basically the rear O2 is way up front - it's prior to the cat or something?

i would go ahead and replace both hoses and sets of clamps while you're at it. hard to imagine one being that bad and the other being pristine. they are REALLY annoying to install, the hose is super freaking tight to get on. expand the ends really good with whatever suitable tools you have and grease it to help it slip on. the limited access really hoses you here.

i don't think there's anything special about subaru oil drain plugs, should be fine from a fitment point of view. might think twice if you go off road, see road debris, significant snow, etc - but i'm sure you considered all that already, just CYA you know.

so you're saying the only issue is the sprockets needed to be swapped out? you can tell by looking at them, that's cool, what exactly do you look for? guess it's too late but that is not the typical failure mode of this engine model. you're sure it was a headgasket? that's the older EJ25's, the first Phase DOHC models that overheat like you're referring too. overheats of the newer Phase II SOHC like you describe would more likely be attributed to something else - like air in the coolant, thermostat, etc. also - Subaru had a 100,000 mile extended head gasket warranty for 00-02 EJ25's - guess you're beyond that warranty?

yep - rear axle is pinned on both ends, no need to touch the wheel side. you can drop the diff and get it off without removing the axles. if you do want to remove the axle, just knock the pin out. those rear axles can be seized to the shafts they are attached too. i'd be prepared to disassemble an axle or cut it just in case, those things can be almost perma-welded out here on the east coast. you could have a circlip tool thing to disassemble the outer joint on the vehicle just in case the axle is seized. if this vehicle is being parted out due to rust or has rust - re-read my last paragraph. other than that - RX stuff is exactly the same as EJ trans you pulled. Not much different. Layouts are the same, bolt points are very similar, same axle and driveshaft ideas (all the same reasons why an EA to EJ swap isn't all that difficult). I don't think you're going to have any problems, just be prepared for rust. Like the exhaust too of course, that will likely be horrid unless it's been worked on or removed already. Nice hit will - you're getting a dual range and rear LSD - what's it going into?

Anyone have any real world numbers on delta cams? Power and gas mileage improvements (highway mileage reports anyone)?

man how bizarre, so does Subaru have a reason for this, surely it's not just random?

there is a brake related valve or something that freezes in cold weather, i consider that cold. not sure on specifics, but i know the information about that scenario is already on here. a search will bring it up.

nice hit on the timing belt junk, that's awesome. yeah you got it right - use just the EJ22 y pipe, it bolts right up to the EJ25, same flange. i've never seen 2 O2 sensors in the front - except for the new H6's, but that's different. sounds odd.

I had one making noise while driving straight a few years ago. It would quiet right down if I stuffed some grease into the joint by hand. Eventually replaced it. Actually that was the time I had a brand new aftermarket axle blow to pieces on me about 100 yards after installing, it was awesome. Had one making noise while driving straight this summer too. Again I kept stuffing grease in it and it would quiet down. Folks will hate that I mention this but since the grease would quiet it down I figured why not put a new boot on it and see how long it lasts? So far so good, I put a new boot on it in my lifted XT6.

XT6 rear axles will work as well.

what they said - take care of the known leaks first before even thinking about the oil pan. i also doubt the pan is leaking. as for the oil at the rear of the engine, that could be the rear cam oring or valve cover gaskets. the cams...hmm...at least on later EJ22's, not sure about the first gen - also have an oring, be sure to replace that as well, not just the seal. this same oring is on the rear passengers side cam held in place by a cap with only 2 bolts - very simple to replace. yes the pan can be done in the car just fine following the directions above to lift it a few inches. your wetness at the front passengers side is probably power steering fluid. the reservoir leaks at the base where there's an oring. remove reservoir and replace oring for like 50 cents and you're probably done. and no i don't know the size nor is it listed anywhere that i know of - i just take one in and match it up. i should write the size down some time. +1 on the subaru seals being better than aftermarket as well.

I agree with him - if it's not even a known problem yet I wouldn't worry about it too much. If it is the head gaskets I don't think you can expect any kind of "typical" issues since we don't know what went was done wrong to it. i don't know of any way to verify the heads were milled just by a cursory glance. your options are a proper head gasket job - machine the heads, Subaru only head gasket, clean all the bolt holes and bolts and reinstall via the proper torque sequence. or get another engine.

the DOHC almost never leak externally, but with a gasket replacement anything is possible if it's not done right...just depends what part was compromised in the process.

Run, do not pass GO, do not look back, this mechanic is behind on his mortgage payments or just is plain dumb about Subarus. You don't replace head bolts on subaru motors, they are not Torque to Yield head bolts. This is really simple and nothing to get worked up over though - GO LOOK!!!!! It's leaking externally!?? It's not like it's some secret mystical hidden hard to find thing requiring special tools, just go look or check coolant level. The mechanic should show him the leak. That being said - if it is leaking it wasn't done right or was overheated significantly by the previous owner. Heads and block need to be extremely clean and the heads should be machined. That's what the mechanic should be looking for, were the heads milled? Easy for a mechanic to skip these steps to save time and money, particularly on an older car.

I wouldn't do it unless it's cheap. There's plenty of EA82's around you can reseal and still get 100,000+ miles out of. How many miles are you planning really? A known good EA82 completely resealed is probably cheaper and more reliable than a 20 year old JDM motor with original gaskets and all that city mileage they run over there (hence the "low mileage"). I dont' think it's a big difference, but not worth the extra cost if they're expensive. First and last one I got came with bad head gaskets. "Warranty" consisted of mailing me 2 head gaskets, I told them not to bother since I don't want cheap junk gaskets of their choosing.

those services are a nice way to loose money and fund the dealerships, that's where they generate a lot of revenue. they'll typically say "10,000 mile service" and list: Check wipers, ball joints, tie rods, washer fluid level, oil level, brake fluid, change oil, check transmission oil, check diff oil....." - you get the point they essentially make a huge list of things that sound like a lot but really it isn't. best to make note of the things you need and have those done. Necessary items (mileages could vary based on use/oppinion): Oil change. Rotate tires. (every 15k roughly, depends on use and tire wear) 30k - air filter, coolant, and transmission fluid at 100k plan on the big one - differentials, timing belt, brake fluid flush, spark plugs and wires.

hmm, 4EAT's swap like champs, this sounds odd. the donor trans came from what?

yep, easy straight forward swap that's been done lots o' times so you're golden. enjoy!