idosubaru

the H6 will help me deal with all the coal i get (i think you've threatened before!) any other source of info other than the FSM? the body shops must have some kind of guide or base to start with. like what all needs replaced...computer, sensors, testing, and locations of them all? maybe those NASIOC goobs know something, they wreck their cars all the time don't they!?!?

Right on, that would help!? Not sure on accident details. The front bags went off, but the side bags (in the seats) did not. It was hit on the drivers side, door and control arm replaced. He said something about the seat belts would have to be replaced - something about a pin going off or something? Not sure why fronts would go off but seats did not? Would an FSM cover the air bag stuff?

Anyone here familiar with the newer air bag stuff? I picked up a 2003 Outback 3.0L VDC that needs the front air bags replaced. I think the seat belts are somehow related, like they lock and need replaced too. Wondering if someone could explain that to me?

yes. i haven't owned one, and for good reason (what he said). the 3AT transmission is a weak spot for sure. the 4EAT transmission was worlds better and comes in i believe a few late 80's vehicles. definitely comes in the XT6 and i believe at least one or two EA82 models (XT...and maybe GL-10?).

sweetness, what did you do previously? with those skill sets i can't imagine it would be that hard to get a job....if you're willing to relocate of course. moving to Canada, oh man is that a huge move! what prompted that? the EA82T ECU can be reprogrammed. i mean really ANYTHING can be done if you have the resources. it might cost $32,000 but it can be done. years ago there used to be a company that did modify EA/ER ECU's. i actually talked to them a really long time ago but don't recall anything about them. though it seems they were out of Australia. actually there might even be some info on the subaruxt boards about that. someone was playing with the EA chips not too long ago i believe.

you know what you're doing so i'm surprised you had the same bolts seize/cause problems 3 times. usually once i fix it, it never comes back to haunt me. stud might come out with the nut, but big deal. i'd start antiseizing these things or getting everything just right the first time so you don't have to remove it 3 times. what exactly are you putting this thing through any way?!?! if you're putting in various different bolts and such could that cause problems? i wonder if the different grade metals you're using for studs/bolts/nuts are causing issues? like those materials aren't a good fit for the application and cause a reaction, oxidation, expansions that are worse than the stock studs? i've seen it mentioned before in other applications. if you remove this same part multiple times, might be good to find a better solution. have you checked the newer heads? i'm sure processes have changed since then but i wonder if Subaru is using better stuff now that they're big time. they probably did offer other casting options. usually the outsourced foundry will offer multiple options to choose from. but there's always engineers, designers, imaginary...i mean industrial engineers, marketing, manufacturing, assembling....it's a really dynamic process but you know that too.

a 99 EJ25 could be identical to the 2000 EJ25 depending what car it comes out of, so the answer to your question is "yes". spend some time searching, this has been talked about before. there are a few hang ups including bellhousing changes and motor differences that require swapping cam sprockets...etc. there is much less experience on this than the older stuff, so best to search what info is already out there, and there are differences (like what can be done before can't be done now, but things that couldn't be done before can be done now...etc).

yes, those head bolts suck, i hate them. i sometimes look at their condition before buying a vehicle! if the alloy was "weak", then every single 20 year old subaru would have problems...but that's not even close to the case. those studs sometimes need repaired, they are often hard to get out, i've had to drill and tap a couple, but i've never had to remove a head. seems perfectly fine to me for cars that are making 200,000, 300,000 miles..what's that i kilometers - 400k or 500k? and a few decades, i think subaru is making a decent product. if there's a car out there having issues, that's more anecdotal than a trend. subaru wasn't big in the 80's either, i was only 5 years old then and even i know that. frankly considering how small and under appreciated they were in the market i think they came out with a dang good product, and they are now reaping the rewards of that. the type of alloy used by subaru seems like a good choice. properly taken care of, repaired, treated with anti seize they hold up just fine...well at least in the 20 or 30 subaru's i've owned. the ones i let sit or ignore...yeah they bite me, but that's my fault. i understand what it takes to run a company and create a marketable product and making it bullet proof after 30 decades probably isn't on their agenda. they're doing a fairly decent job providing reliable and cost effective vehicles and the stats are showing it.

that is totally awesome. had you ever done this before for a vehicle? i think it should be mentioned that this is an extremely intense project, beyond the means of most folks. i like that you had to do some welding and assembly code to do this, that's great! probably one of the most technical and difficult projects ever posted on here. not many people have the skill or time to put into something that in depth on the software side (particularly here). others have done it, but they're usually unwilling to talk about it.

Subaru's extended 100k head gasket warranty applies to 2000-2002 MY vehicles. Does anyone know if this applies to used vehicles as well? I'm looking at 2000+ Legacy/Outbacks and am wondering if they're still covered under 100k even if sold/not original owner? I thought I recall others having this done?

i'm in the same boat, like to have at least one - if not two automatics available for my wife. i don't think i want her driving a manual around where we live anyway. crazy mountain roads, switch backs, snow, etc...auto is probably a much better fit for her. as for the HG on you 99, possible they were already replaced but then again not quite all of them fail!

in general it's good to stick with legacy stuff for legacy and impreza/forester stuff for those. forester is based on an impreza platform (lighter car). probably not a big deal, but it's something to go on if no one else comments. as to the amount of lift, that's answered in numerous other threads, just plug around here a bit.

thank you for buying something that won't flood that USMB with head gasket or overheating questions! woo hoo! be sure to thank yourself in a few years and 100,000 miles for your trouble free engine.....if the auto tranny makes it. \ i picked up a 97 manual for a buddy this summer, just a fantastic car. low miles, great deal...EJ22, manual...smoking deal for a car that's going to last a long time with minimal issues.

i posted a long time ago here and on the XT forum pictures of a guy i knows mazda - the 64 dollar paint job i believe was the title of the thread. you can search here or the XT forum. it's quite an amazing 64 dollar paint job. i tried to talk him out of it "waste of time"...etc, he was still happy with it a few years later. granted, not a spray job but you'll be amazed at the picks.

correct - you are not damaging or otherwise shortening the life of your engine. totally annoying and Subaru did update the pistons to alleviate that issue, but it doesn't cause any problems...except it can mess with your mind!

i have some recent threads on this too since a friend is looking to lift his 97 Legacy sedan. 1996-1999 Outback Wagon struts seem to be the way to go. Not sure about 2000+ suspension - anyone familiar with that?

FWD was available in 93. FWD was available in some Subaru's functionally until 96, though there are a very, very few 97's. there are VIN decoders available on line that will tell you what this is, just google Subaru VIN decoder and figure it out.

i think it needs to be a DOHC Phase I EJ25, not the SOHC. i believe you need access to the rear cam via that cam cap on the rear of the engine that's attached by two small bolts. the SOHC doesn't have this part, so there's no access. hopefully someone here corrects me if i'm wrong since i'm not positive of that or how the disty swap goes. the install and electronics is a big bear, but there are folks here that can do wiring work for you. might want to look into as the improvements are enormous across the board, better mileage, performance, technology, simpler, more reliable, etc.

tear it up mike, they've got to both be EA82 columns. they just had to goof with the XT steering wheel to match the rest of the car! not sure if that will affect the horn/cruise wiring/buttons but i doubt it.

sounds like a good move D. the growing consensus is that EJ water pumps almost never fail, so I and I know of a few others that do a bunch of motor work are starting to extend the water pump change intervals. not that it's a big deal with the timing belt off anyway, but i figure there's no point in replacing the part every single time like i used to when i've never seen one fail. but on 105k belt motors you're asking a lot to wait 105,000 to be in there again. makes sense, the design is a bit more robust than older gen water pumps.

search this forum for doing them in the car. the Phase I EJ25's definitely can be, and i'm %95 sure yours can as well. the few Subaru shops that i've been too do them in the car (unless it has to come out for a clutch or something anyway). it is highly unlikely your heads are damaged. call your local subaru dealer and ask them who does their machine shop work. have that place mill your heads. you want a machined surface for the reinstall. they will also check them for flatness. i can say with a high degree of certainty they will be fine. i haven't come across a set of warped heads yet. use Subaru only head gaskets for this.

cylinder misfires are usually just plugs and wires. either they need replaced or after market wires and non-NGK plugs were used. not all subaru's are like this, but your engine is - stick with Subaru only wires and NGK plugs.

put the FWD fuse in the FWD holder in the engine bay and let us know if it goes away. replacing the duty C and/or clutches in the rear extension housing can be done without even taking the trans out of the car, so it's much cheaper than typical trans work or a rebuild. has the fluid ever been changed and do all the tires match?

turbo replacement is really quite simple, just have it fixed. it's nothing spectacular, difficult or indicating that anything serious is wrong.

this is getting convoluted and beyond the obvious- burp it properly. we know for a fact it has not been done right yet, so start there. there's no point in discussing all sorts of other possibilities. not only that, but the thing that hasn't been done right is notorious for causing problems. search here for burping or removing air from the cooling system and do that. messing with the heater core is not the answer. it would be very odd for it to be the timing belt. i can't see just the water pump alone causing this unless somehow (that i can't imagine) it was installed improperly or is the wrong one. was the thermostat replaced - it needs to be a Subaru thermostat.